The Complete Guide To Angkor Wat And The Temples Of Siem Reap

The ruins of Angkor are more than just temples, they are the symbol and emblem of Cambodia. If you think of Cambodia, you’re probably thinking of Angkor Wat. It features on the Cambodian flag and currency. Angkor was once a city the same size as downtown LA. It was the largest pre industrial city in the world and home to the biggest religious structures on Earth including the crowning jewel of Angkor Wat. The Angkor archaeological park today is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a wonder of the world. Read on for our complete guide to visiting and getting the most out of your time in Siem Reap and the incredible temples of Angkor.

Every child has a dream of stumbling upon jungle covered ruins. Indiana Jones through to Uncharted, Tarzan through to Tomb Raider the image of vine strewn, root cracked ruins taps into something romantic, curious and exciting in our brains. We love exploring ruins just look at Ritigala or the Lion’s Rock Fortress of Sigiriya so, there was no way on our Cambodian adventure we could miss out on the temples of Angkor.

Read on to find out how to plan your temple run and maximise however long you have in Siem Reap and the Angkor area.

The towers, stupa and stone faces of Bayon Temple stare down at the viewer in the Angkor Temple complex of Siem Reap, Cambodia.
 
 

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What is Angkor Wat? 

First things first, there is a big difference between Angkor and Angkor Wat. Angkor refers to the Temple City of Angkor, a vast, sprawling, ancient collection of ruins with over a thousand temples that archaeologists now think represents the largest pre-industrial city in the world. At its heart, is the largest religious structure on the planet, the incredible temple of Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat can be translated to the Capital of Temples, an apt name for the crowning glory of the incredible Angkor site. 

A very brief history of Angkor

The ruined city of temples came to prominence under the Khmer Kings around 800 CE. The city grew and flourished over the next few centuries. The city of Angkor was a wonder of its age and seat of the Khmer Empire. It was possibly the largest city in the world and was the base of the Angkorian period of Khmer exploration and expansion. The city was very advanced for its time with a complex water management system built to normalise and take advantage of the uncertain monsoon rains.


The crown jewel of the capital, the temple of Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman II at the start of the 12th century. Designed as a temple mountain, Angkor Wat is built to mirror the Hindu Mount Meru, and its walls are covered in intricate carvings of Hindu Gods, scripture and legend. The whole temple is surrounded by a huge moat and outer wall. 

The iconic stupas of Angkor Wat rise up over the surrounding wall of the temple. Taken in the Angkor Park of Cambodia.

Just look at the carvings! Every inch of Angkor Wat is a treat for the eyes.

The city of Angkor also provides a unique insight in the changing times of the Khmer Empire. Starting as a Hindu site, the whole of the Angkor complex slowly transitioned towards Buddhism over the course of its long life.

You can see where they scratched out the old Hindu iconography.

Evidence of this change is everywhere. With temples having defaced carvings of Hindu Gods and enormous Buddhist statuary being added as later additions.

The change in religion came in the later part of the 12th century when King Jayavarman VII converted to Buddhism under the direction of his favourite wife.

Jayavarman VII wanted to cement the new state religion and moved the “Capital Temple” from Angkor Wat to his newly built Bayon Temple. It’s the face of Jayavarman VII you see looking down from the gates and stupas of the Bayon Temple.

The stone face of Jayavarman VII stares down at the viewer. The face is partially ruined and found at Bayon Temple in the Angkor archaeological park of Siem Reap.

Jayavarman VII is always watching you in Angkor!

As the power of the Khmer Empire waned in the 14th century, its capital in Angkor was invaded, sacked and looted by the Ayutthaya Kingdom from the west. This was the end of Angkor as the capital of the Khmer Empire.  

Obviously this is a quick, dirty and very basic overview of an enormous and complicated swathe of history. If you want to read more (and we’d highly recommend you do) check out the Encyclopedia Britannica page here.

Today the Angkor archaeological complex is a huge UNESCO World Heritage Site. With roads, cycle paths and walking trails running between many of the uncovered ruins. Restoration is still happening throughout the site, with satellite imagery revealing more and more hidden treasures every year. 

A pile of stone awaits reassembly next to the moss covered restored corridors of Ta Prohm temple in Angkor.

On the left; before restoration, on the right; after!

What the city of Angkor is to us is one of the most beautiful, fascinating and mysterious places we’ve ever visited.

Where is Angkor Wat - How to get to the ruins of Angkor?

The ruins of Angkor are located in Krong Siem Reap. The massive archaeological park sits around 7 km north from the centre of the city of Siem Reap. Siem Reap is Cambodia’s second city and will almost certainly be your base for exploring Angkor. The city is full of great accommodation, food and the famous nightlife of “Pub Street”.

From downtown Siem Reap it will take you around 15 minutes to drive to the archaeological park.

Transport to, from and around the site is up to you. You can drive yourself, hire a driver or even cycle around. More on this later! 

The Angkor Pass - Entrance tickets and which ticket to buy?

One of the first decisions you will have to make when arriving in Siem Reap is which ticket to buy. The Angkor Pass is how you access the archaeological park and ruined city. It comes in three versions:

  • A one day pass - gets you access for, you guessed it, one day.

  • A three day pass - gives you access three times over a one week period

  • A seven day pass - allows you to visit the park seven times over a month long period. 

The Angkor Pass actually offers a lot of flexibility. Other than the one day pass, they allow you to go in and out of the temple complex, but also let you space out your visits so you don’t get overwhelmed or “templed out”. 

When you come into any of the roads surrounding the site, your ticket will be scanned and that will be counted as a day's entrance. You can then go in and out of the site as much as you like, see however many temples you want that day, and spend as long (obviously opening hours dependant - more on this later) as you want in Angkor. This entrance will count as one of your days. When you buy the ticket you will specify a starting date and then, if you have a three day pass you will have seven days to use your three entrances and with the seven day pass you will have a month.

The one day ticket does what it says on the tin. You buy it for the day you want to visit and it will get you full access to the park for one day only. One day passes bought after 5pm will be valid for entry the next day. 

All tickets give you access to the full Angkor site including the ruins of the hill to the south of Siem Reap; Phnom Kraom (more on this later) and to Prasat Beng Mealea out to the east. 

It’s important to note that the Angkor Pass does not include Koh Ker Temple or the 1000 Lingas of Kbal Spean.

Angkor Pass ticket prices 

The cost of Angkor Pass tickets:

  • One day pass - $37 USD each.

  • Three day pass - $62 USD each.

  • Seven day pass -  $72 USD each.

A portion of each ticket purchased goes to the upkeep of the archaeological site and a small donation is made to a local charity. 

 

Please be aware that once you have bought your tickets they cannot be refunded or extended. You also cannot transfer a ticket to another person. It will only be valid for you and will have your photograph on it. There are heavy fines if you are found in the park without the correct ticket.

 

Where to buy the Angkor Pass

The Angkor Pass tickets can be bought online here or in person at the ticket office located here

The ticket office is open between 5 am and 5:30 pm everyday

To purchase a ticket online you will need to upload a photograph of yourself. If you buy the tickets in person at the ticket counter, they will do this for you.

If you buy your tickets online, you will need to be able to show them to entrance staff. You can either print them off yourself or download it to your phone. 

 

If you need mobile data and haven’t already sorted a Cambodian SIM card check out eSIMs with Airalo here.

 

So which Angkor Pass ticket should I buy? 

It depends! We know that’s a cop out. Honestly if you are in Siem Reap for over two days, then we would highly recommend buying a three day or above pass. It’s a huge wonderful site and well worth exploring at your leisure. As we’ll say later on in this article, we bought the three day ticket and wished we had bought the seven. If you’re spending a long time in Siem Reap or your Cambodian itinerary loops back through the city, consider buying the seven day pass. For more reasons why you might want to buy the seven day ticket, make sure you read on for our seven day itinerary.

Carvings of women line the bath walls in the Angkor Wat temple of Cambodia.

In the Angkor complex you really do need time to explore!

In terms of economy, the seven day pass costs only a little more than the three and only a little more to buy the three than the one day pass. If you buy too little time in Angkor then it costs a lot to buy one more day, so we would advise buying the longer ticket and having more flexibility in your schedule.

Transport in and around Angkor - How to visit the temples of Angkor Wat

Depending on how you want to visit the temple city of Angkor there are many ways of getting about. If you are with a tour (more on this later) they will arrange transport for you. But, if like us, you are more of a free spirit and want to show yourself around, you will need some wheels. Technically you could walk between the sites but the area is vast. For example one itinerary for a day in Siem Reap is over 30 km not including climbing the monuments themselves! 

We would recommend one of the following.

Cycling Siem Reap - The temples via bike

All over town you can rent pedal bikes for very reasonable prices. The bikes range from $3 to $7 USD per day depending on the quality of bike and where you get them from. You will usually be able to negotiate some form of discount for multi-day rental. Most guesthouses, hotels and hostels will offer bike rentals, just make sure you test the bike before renting it, you don’t want to end up like John in Anuradhapura!

Angkor Wat actually has an amazing cycle pathway, looping in and around the jungle and (for the most part) avoiding the roads. This would make a fantastic way to explore the ruins especially if you are travelling with children. Just make sure you understand and plan just how far you will go in a day. Like walking, you might not want to sign yourself up for a 30km bike ride especially in the Cambodian heat. 

We wouldn’t recommend renting a bicycle if you only have one day in Angkor. There’s just too much to see and the temples are very spread out. If you have multiple days, a bike would be a lovely way to get around for the more athletically inclined visitor. 

If you’re in town there are many, many bike rentals, however it might be worth jumping in a taxi / remorque and hiring a bike from nearer the entrance to the site itself. Hiring a bike in or near Angkor Wat will cut off the 7 km cycle from the city along the main road. You can hire bikes from near Angkor Wat here.

For those interested in a bike tour have a look at the offerings from Get Your Guide below who offer loads of different bike-borne itineraries.

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Temple by taxi - Private car or remorque

For those looking for a more relaxed way to visit the temples and ruins of Angkor, then the easiest way is to hire a driver and be chauffeured around the sites. 

Depending on the level of luxury you want, this can come in many forms. For those on a bougie budget, who need air conditioning and a comfortable seat, then you can arrange a private taxi to take you all over the Angkor complex. This will allow you to beat the heat and have a nice cool refuge to escape to in between climbing temples. The trade off is of-course the price and this would definitely be one of the more expensive ways to explore. Private cars can be hired either as part of a tour or just as a driver and car where you can instruct them where to go.

For tours by car check out this link or to rent your own car have a look here.

The more fun way to be chauffeured about the temples and ruins of Angkor is the traditional Cambodian remorque. Think of the carriage from Cinderella but instead of being pulled by mice or horses, it is hitched to a motorbike! We have used remorques all around Cambodia both for tours in Battambang and via Grab as taxis. They are a great fun way to get around. 

A traditional remorque cart on the streets of Phnom Penh, Cambodia.

In Siem Reap it's no exaggeration to say that if you threw a stone in any direction it would hit a remorque driver who would offer to take you on a tour of the temples (after wondering why you lobbed a rock at him). Every street corner, shop, bar and travel agent will have a throng of remorque taxis outside. Just negotiate a price, itinerary and whether you need a guide and these guys will take you anywhere you need to go. Just make sure to be clear on what you want to do and how much it will cost you before setting out. 

A remorque can easily sit four adults in the back. Remorques can vary a lot in price depending on where you want to go and how long you need them for. For a curated tour check out your options on Get Your Guide below.

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Both private car and remorque would be good options during the rainy season as they provide, at least a little, cover from the elements. 

Exploring Angkor by scooter - Our favourite way to see the temples

It should come as no surprise to the Southeast Asian backpacker that everywhere in Siem Reap offers scooter rental. A budget backpacker favourite, these cheap and cheerful 125cc scooters are perfect for independent exploration of the Siem Reap sites. Renting a scooter means you are totally independent. You can go anywhere, stay as long or as short as you like and just zoom off whenever you feel like it. It was by far the most fun way to explore the ruins of Angkor.

There really is something special about driving along a jungle road with the  wind in your face and passing through one of the ancient gateways to the Bayon Temple. It’s not something you get to do everyday!

The best way to travel through the Angkor park!

Scooter rental is very inexpensive, typically between $6 and $8 USD for basic models. The basic models are usually a 125cc Honda Click, the delightfully named Zoomer or sometimes a cute little Scoopy. Any of these bikes will be more than enough to ferry you and a passenger around the sites. You really don’t need anything bigger than a 125cc which is good as in Cambodia, foreigners cannot ride anything above a 125cc without a licence. All the normal warnings about renting a scooter apply here. Make sure you have helmets, give the bike a test and do not ride if you’re not comfortable, there’s no shame in getting a driver - plus healthcare in Cambodia is expensive and not what you want to rely on! 

A 125cc Honda Zoomer scooter is parked on the roadside in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

It’s also worth pointing out that scooters offer very little protection from the elements. We visited in the wet season and were caught in a thunder shower and were comprehensively soaked one day.

Throughout the archaeological park there are loads of places to pull over and park your bike. Outside every one of the major temples there will be a parking spot usually full of food and drink vendors. Sometimes the vendors will couch your parking space as meaning you need to buy a drink from them but this is usually not the case. Just park anywhere you see bikes or anywhere there is a spare space. 

The roads around the Angkor complex are well maintained and easy to drive but you are sharing them with locals, trucks, remorques and cars. 

We absolutely loved the freedom of the bike as it allowed us to explore much further and cram much more into our Angkor experience. If you’re confident on a scooter, do it! 

Angkor itineraries - What to see in Siem Reap and the Angkor archaeological park

We will take you through some possible routes around the Angkor archaeological park. Depending on how long you have, how many temples you want to cram into any one day, and what kind of transport you’re getting around, you can mix and match any elements of these. 

Whichever route you take, we’d recommend reading our “one day itinerary” as this will give you an overview of the unmissable highlights you should not skip in Siem Reap. The three and seven day suggestions will build on this one day itinerary adding in more incredible sights for those with the time to see them.

One day in Angkor - What not to miss on a short visit to Siem Reap

If you only have one day to explore the incredible temples and ruins of Angkor do not despair. You just need to do some planning and be ready for a packed day of exploring. Before you set off you will need to arrange transport, either by booking your taxi / tuk tuk the previous day or sorting your scooter rental out beforehand. We would recommend bringing a packed breakfast / lunch and plenty of water - the Cambodian sun is no joke. 

Fully prepped and ready to go, this is what we would recommend for a one day visit highlighting the most famous temples of the Angkor complex. 

One day itinerary - Sunrise at Angkor Wat

First things first, you have a decision to make. When do you want to get up? If you’re only in Angkor for a day and you have not been before, then honestly you would be cheating yourself if you missed sunrise over Angkor Wat.

We’ll get the negative out the way now, this is probably the busiest the site is at any time in the day. Expect to share your sunrise experience with hundreds if not thousands of other travellers. That being said, it is totally worth it. Get up early, before the sunrise!

A panoramic view of sunrise over the Angkor Wat temples in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Sunrise over Angkor Wat nearly a decade ago!

Angkor Wat opens at 5am everyday and depending on the time of year, sunrise may not be too long after this. Park in the large car park (located here), cross the Rainbow Bridge and moat and enter the Angkor Wat complex. The best place to view the sunrise is from the West bank of the Reflecting Pond just in front of the Northern Library. We have dropped a location pin on the map here.

If it’s too crowded there, the lake on the other side of the terrace (in front of the Southern Library) is also a good vantage point. The lakes here create amazing reflections of the clouds and temples as the sun creeps up behind them. If you’re running a little late or if it's really busy you can stop and wait before crossing the Rainbow Bridge for a different sunrise perspective.

We cannot recommend sunrise over Angkor enough. We have been lucky to have visited Angkor Wat on two occasions and we treated ourselves to the sunrise on our first visit and even now, a decade later, the memory is beautiful, vivid and strong. 

All that being said, if you’re allergic to mornings, or just had a wild night on Pub Street all is not lost. If you miss the sunrise and you visit Angkor Wat later in the morning, you’ll find that the crowds have nearly all gone and you have a much less busy wonder of the world to explore. 

A view of Angkor Wat from the approaching stone causeway.

As you can see, if you arrive at Angkor Wat after the sunset crowds have gone it’s certainly not too busy!

The temple complex of Angkor Wat was built between 1122 CE and 1150 CE by King Suryavarman II. It was to be the state temple of the empire, and the crown in the Khmer King’s capital. 

Angkor wat is enormous. As soon as you come through the carpark, gift shops and cafes you come face to face with the massive moat and outer walls. These ancient edifices surround the towering inner temples, their spires and stupa’s jutting into the sky and reflecting in the waters below. The sheer scale of the place is nearly overwhelming. You’ll have seen millions of photos, but none can quite compare to seeing it with your own eyes. 

Angkor Wat is the largest and one of the most beautiful religious structures on earth. It’s been extensively restored and is in (for its age) remarkably great condition. On every surface, are carvings, statues and inscriptions depicting both Hindu, Buddhist and ancient Khmer scenes. 

Stone pillars support and intricately carved ceiling with dancing figures and geometric patterns taken in Angkor Wat, Cambodia.
Circular patterned carvings decorate the ceiling in the temple of Angkor Wat, Cambodia.

The temple started life as a Hindu temple mirroring the Hindu holy mountain of Meru before being transitioned to a Buddhist temple. All throughout Angkor Wat you can see evidence of its many layered history. 

To really get a perspective of the temple, make sure you climb the very steep steps to the tallest tower in the dead centre of the complex. The views from the top are amazing! 

A view over the Angkor Wat ruins from the top of its central stupa in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

The view from the top is the only real way of getting a handle on the scale of Angkor Wat!

If you’re taking yourself around, expect to spend between 40 minutes to an hour and a half wandering around Angkor Wat. Even within its walls it’s a large site full of nooks and crannies to explore. If you are on a guided tour being shown around by an expert, expect to spend a lot longer here. If you come for sunrise, you may find there is a queue to climb the central shrine. 

After Angkor Wat - Bayon Temple

Just to the north of Angkor Wat is the magnificent Bayon Temple complex. Your first stop should be before you even enter the temple complex. Bayon Temple has a truly enormous moat surrounding it. Seriously, check it out on Google Maps here (we’ve dropped a pin where your first stop should be) - just look at how big the moat for Bayon Temple is compared to Angkor Wat in the south! 

On each compass point of Bayon Temple's square moat lies a huge stone gate. Each gate has pillars with four faces pointing out in each direction and you’ll have to drive through these to get to the temple. 

One of the best spots to pull over for a photograph is just before you travel through the Southern Gate of Tonle Om (see the above map link for location). The stone bridge leading to the gate is lined on either side with huge stone statues of men pulling on the body of a naga. It really is something else, and this is only the entrance to the temple! 

The statues line the stone bridge leading towards Tonle Om Gate in the Angkor temple complex of Siem Reap.

Bayon Temple (location) lies in the centre of its enormous square moat and was built as the new state capital temple by King Jayavarman VII. Bayon Temple lay at the exact heart of the King’s new capital called Angkor Thom (all these Angkor’s are getting confusing). It was this King, Jayavarman VII, under his wife’s influences that pivoted the empire from Hinduism to Buddhism, and his Bayon Temple was a display of grandeur and authority for the new state religion. 

The incredible exterior of the enormous Bayon Temple spreads out amongst green grass and tall trees at the Angkor Complex of Cambodia.

King Jayavarman’s face stares out at you from all over Bayon temple. Spires, stupas, doorways, arches and gateways are all adorned with his likeness, or at least what he wanted everyone to think he looked like.

The stone face of Jayavarman VII stare out at the view from a stone stupa at the Bayon Temple in Siem Reap.

If you’ve seen a serenely smiley, enormous stone head when researching Cambodia, this is probably Jayavarman.

When you go round the temple itself, it is amazing, you can’t believe the scale of construction and the delicacy of the carvings. The enormous stones head gaze down at you in uncanny 3D. They are literally building sized sculptures! 

Bayon Temple was one of our favourite temples to explore. The scale and other-worldy beauty of the place were fantastic. There are so many hidden pathways, rooms and passages to find. It really isn’t like any other temple we had been before and we have been to quite a few temples! 

Baphuon Temple

Within the moat and grounds of Bayon Temple, a short walk northeast of the main temple, lies the ruins of Baphuon Temple (location). Also known as the Golden Mountain Temple, this amazing tiered square pyramid lies at the end of an impressive causeway and houses an incredible secret. 

The ruins of a stone building in the middle of the giant causeway leading to Baphuon Temple in Siem Reap.

Baphuon Temple has fewer wall carvings and is less ornate than Bayon or Angkor Wat. Even so, it has a serene kind of beauty to it. Make sure you climb the very steep steps to the top to get a great view over the temple, bathing pools and the surrounding jungle. When you look at the jungle and temples from up high, you can see how easily nature reclaims these places. You can completely believe there are hundreds of other temples lurking within the forest, their stone passageways and arches overtaken with thick green vines. 

Baphuon Temple rises up in giant stone layers all the way to its ruined peak in the jungles of Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Travelling in the wet season does have its advantages. Just look how many people we had to share Baphuon Temple with!

Make sure to go round the back of the temple where its secret treasure lies. The huge back wall of the temple, will, like a ‘Magic Eye’ picture, suddenly resolve itself into focus and make it obvious that the whole structure of the wall is one huge reclining Buddha! 

A huge of wall of stone is assembled in the likeness of the 'Sleeping Buddha' found at the rear of the Baphuon Temple in Angkor.

Make sure you combine Baphuon Temple with your visit to Bayon as it is only a short walk away.  

Lunch in Angkor Wat

We’d recommend packing a lunch for your Angkor Wat day out. This would give you the flexibility of choosing your lunch time and location. Just grab some food on the go from Siem Reap town and find somewhere cool for a picnic. If you feel like treating yourselves check out the Eric Kayser bakeries or some of the other delicious brunch options in town. Check out our full guide to breakfast in Siem Reap here.

Ellie holds up a pain au chocolate against the backdrop of Srah Srang Lake in Siem Reap, Angkor.

We’re backpackers honestly!

After Bayon Temple you have a great opportunity for some snacks / lunch stops. Take the road north out of Bayon, driving past the amazing Elephant Terrace and the Terrace of the Leper King and pass through the northern gate of Dei Chhnang Gate. Follow the road east from the gate and you’ll find yourself at Neak Poan Lake and Temple. This would make a fantastic lunch stop before continuing on the road east and south towards Srah Srang Lake and Market and the world famous Ta Prohm Temple. 

Alternatively, you could head east out of Bayon Temple through the Victory Gate past Ta Prohm before arriving at Srah Srang Lake and Market. This would be a good option if you haven’t packed a lunch as there are plenty of vendors selling grilled meats, fried rice, noodles and other snacks. There are plenty of sit down restaurants lining the Srah Srang lake, but bear in mind that within the Angkor Park, food comes at a premium - they were charging between $7 and $8 just for a plate of fried rice - not particularly backpacker friendly! 

For those like us on a backpacking budget we’d recommend hitting up one of the markets in Siem Reap for some fruit and then grabbing some baked goods to go from one of the many local bakeries for a cheap picnic with a fantastic view! 

Ta Prohm - The ‘Tomb Raider’ Temple

Angkor Wat is the most famous temple in the whole complex, its silhouette at dawn is legendary, however, if you’re looking for the most photographed temple of the complex, it is almost certainly Ta Prohm (location). 

A towering spire of roots and branches twists out of the ruined stonework of Ta Prohm temple, Siem Reap.

Ta Prohm is like something from fantasy, a picture perfect jungle temple.

Ta Prohm was nicknamed the ‘Tomb Raider’ temple after an appearance in a certain terrible Angelina Jolie film. Ta Prohm is a storybook temple with tumbled down walls, trees growing through collapsed ceilings, roots spreading across ancient walkways and moss covered foundations. It is impossibly picturesque. 

A carved and moss covered doorway is obscured by fallen masonry and tree roots in the ruins of Ta Prohm temple, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm Temple was built by King Jayavarman VII as the ‘Monastery of the King’. Work started in 1186 A.D. (at least according to Wikipedia) and the site was home to over 12,000 people including 615 dancers! The whole site of Ta Prohm was constructed without mortar and after it was abandoned in the 15th century, nature took it back. The tree roots and plants grew between the stones, forcing them apart and collapsing large parts of the temple. 

Nowadays the temple is a wonderful mix of restoration and ruin. With large piles of moss covered stone lying like the worlds hardest lego set alongside beautifully restored corridors, pavilions and bas reliefs. If you have seen pictures of trees bursting out of walls and roots coiling around statues, it is probably Ta Prohm. 

Lego difficulty level = Nightmare. The restoration of Ta Prohm is almost as impressive as the buildings!

After Angkor Wat itself, Ta Prohm is probably the most “popular” of the Angkor site temples. It is very photogenic and throughout the temple grounds you’ll find selfie spots, wooden platforms and perfect viewpoints to take photos from. As such Ta Prohm is usually busier than some of the other temples, but this really doesn’t distract from the beauty of the place. Despite the renovation, Ta Prohm still feels like you’re discovering it. The forest breaks through everywhere, there’s not a scene inside the temple which hasn’t been touched by the roots and leaves of the surrounding jungle. Ta Prohm is popular for a reason. It is stunning! 

A ruined doorway is surrounded by bas reliefs and scultures, its roof crumbled and caved in. Taken at Ta Prohm Temple, Angkor.
Fallen masonry hides an ancient moss covered door at Ta Prohm Temple in Angkor, Cambodia

Ta Prohm also holds a little secret. If you’re looking for a treasure hunt, try a game of spot the stegosaurus! This unlikely dinosaur is featured in one of the wall carvings and has sparked some very colourful debates. Theories ranging from aliens to disproving the fossil record have been proposed but most people agree it's a big lizard with a sun in the background! If you want to track it down, it can be found here but even with this Google Map reference you’ll have to do a little bit of looking.

A carved pillar in the Ta Prohm temple appears to show a stegosaurus.

Can you spot him? He’s kinda cute!

Ta Prohm would probably be the last stop on your one day tour of Angkor Wat. If you’re not templed out or want to fit a few more temples in along the way, read on for our three and seven day suggestions for other amazing temples to add to your itinerary. Or, if you’ve had your fill of temples, go grab yourself a cold beer on Pub Street! 

Three day full itinerary for the Angkor Temple complex

This time when we visited the temples we bought the three day Angkor Pass. This being our second time in Angkor Wat, we have devised what we think is a great itinerary for three days in and around the temples of Angkor. As with the one day expedition, a lot will depend on the transport you arrange, so if you have your own scooter it's easy to go wherever you like, but if you have a driver you will need to make sure you agree on what stops he will make on any given day.

Day one - Angkor Wat and Phnom Kraom

We eased ourselves into the temple extravaganza in Siem Reap by not cramming in too much into day one. What we did and what we would recommend doing is the main site of Angkor Wat (location) in the morning. It is up to you if you want to get up for the sunrise or wait until later when the temple is less busy. As we’ve said before, if this is your first time in Angkor Wat and the weather allows, we would definitely recommend getting up early to see the sunrise. This was our second time in Siem Reap so we had a bit of a lie in, (nothing to do with an outing on Pub Street the night before, honest!) and came after the sunrise crowds had left. We were visiting under rainy skies in the low season and had nearly the whole complex to ourselves - okay that may be a little bit of an exaggeration but we did only see about twenty other people whilst we were there! 

If you haven’t already, make sure you read the one day guide above for more information on Angkor Wat itself.

When exploring Angkor Wat, make sure you take a full tour of the gallery walls surrounding the central temple. These two concentric square layers house incredible bas relief carvings, depicting famous scenes from Hindu and Khmer history. In the northwest corner, is the famous bas reliefs depicting the battle against the Lanka demon. In the centre of the Western entrance is the Hall of a Thousand Gods with amazing statues and huge ancient baths.

The square stone baths at Angkor Wat are surrounded by pillars and cloistered walkways in Angkor Wat, Siem Reap.

By baths we mean swimming pools of-course!

Outside of the main temple of Angkor Wat, the giant causeway known as the Terrace of Honor runs between the moat, Rainbow Bridge and the entrance to Angkor Wat itself. Make sure to check out the two “libraries” that lie either side of this stone causeway. The Terrace of Honor itself is an amazing structure. Giant naga balustrades run the length of the causeway in various states of restoration and decay. If you’re lucky enough to visit when it's quiet, you can get some absolutely fantastic photos of the causeway running up into the centre of the temple.

Palm trees line the stone walkway leading up to the towers of the temple of Angkor Wat in Cambodia.

Even under grey skies, Angkor Wat is still beautiful!

Within the bounds of the moat, to the north and south of Angkor Wat lie two pagodas. These pagodas are much less visited than the main Angkor Wat temple and are definitely worth a detour to find. 


After exploring Angkor Wat we took a break. We travelled back to Siem Reap for a nice lunch before later that afternoon, hopping back on the scooter. We headed south to Phnom Kraom Temple and its sweeping 360 degree views.

Phnom Kraom Temple

Set around thirty minutes drive south of downtown Siem Reap, the hill of Phnom Kraom (location) rises up over the flat rice paddies all around. The road snakes up the side of the hill higher and higher before reaching the temple and ruins that crown its peak. 

Phnom Kroam is a fantastic sunset spot in Siem Reap. At the top you can walk around the ancient ruins for 360 degree views out across Siem Reap city to the north and across the vast Tonle Sap lake to the south. It is a fantastic way to end a day. The temple ruins are smaller than the ones set within the main Angkor Park, but can be accessed with your Angkor Pass. 

A Jellie selfie from the top of Phnom Kraom hill across the flat plains and rice fields of Krong Siem Reap, Cambodia.

The view from Phnom Kraom was fantastic!

The ancient temple may be smaller, but it more than makes up for it with the fantastic views. The landscape all around is so flat, you have an uninterrupted view over the green, gold and reflective surface of the paddy fields, farms and lakes all around.

 

Top tip:

It is only the ruins and temple at the peak of the hill that require the Angkor Pass to access. You could easily drive 80 to 90% of the way up the hill, pull over and enjoy the sunset without a ticket.

This is a very popular spot with the Cambodian youth and come sundown there’s usually several food and drink vendors popping up all along the road. Please be careful though, as around sunset and sundown the road becomes very busy.

 

Day two - exploring the temples north of Angkor Wat

Day two started with us driving north past Angkor Wat until we reached Phnom Bakheng (location). This giant stepped pyramid lies a little way west off the main road and is a stunning multi-stepped temple. Since our visit, we have heard that this makes an amazing place to watch the sunset from. We are now slightly annoyed as we can imagine this would be spectacular! 

Just up the road from here is the orange stone and steep stepped pyramid ruins of Baksei Chamkrong (location). We parked just off the Tonle Om South Bridge and walked back to Baksei Chamkrong. Visiting early in the morning, we had it all to ourselves and climbed to the top to see the views over the jungle and all around. The temple gave us Mayan vibes, with its stepped pyramid structure and single, tall central stupa. 

The tall steps of Baksei Chamkrong temple rises against the green jungle in the Angkor archaeological park, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

After Baksei Chamkrong we walked left to the overgrown ruins of Sâk Krâop Temple (location) before doubling back east, through the stately three towered ruins of Prasat Bei Temple (location) before returning to our bike at the south gate bridge. 

Two ruined stupas flank an intact tower. The temple of Prasat Bei is made of stacks of red bricks

Back on our scooter we drove through the fantastic southern gate - Tonle Om, honestly this alone was worth the scooter rental. It was one of those pinch yourself moments, that yes, you are currently driving a little 125cc scooter through an ancient Khmer gateway!

Lines of stone statues sit dragging at an enormous Naga on the bridge to the Tonle Om gateway outside Bayon Temple in Angkor, Cambodia

The Tonle Om gate is amazing, even more so when your whizzing through on a scooter!

The road goes due north and so did we. The road arrowed through the jungle before suddenly opening out into the vast beauty of the Bayon Temple (location). On our scooter we took an orbit all the way round the ring road that surrounds the temple before parking just off of the western road. 

The ruins of Bayon Temple rise up away from the viewer in layers of stone, walls, stupas and sculpture.

The scale of Bayon Temple is just vast!

We spent a good hour wandering around and taking in the many faces (quite literally) of Bayon Temple. This is an absolute must on your exploration of Angkor - remember this was the temple built to replace Angkor Wat and cement a new religion for the Khmer empire!

The Bayon Temple under blue skies with its many turrets and faces rising up from the surrounding greenery.

All around Bayon Temple are smaller but no less fantastic ruins. You can easily walk to these sights from Bayon Temple, but we’d actually recommend hopping on your bike and driving a short way north to park at the top corner of the Terrace of the Elephants (parking location). This allowed us to do a great circular walk taking in some incredible sights.

Our first stop was the Terrace of the Leper King - Preah Ponlea Sdach Komlong (location). We were greeted by a towering, seemingly impenetrable wall. From the wall, we were glared down on by hundreds of carved figures. There is no space left uncarved, it was like looking up at stadium seating. Despite looking impenetrable there are actually many layers to this wall, you can go inside the outer walls and walk through equally intricately carved inner walkways before coming down and into the famous Terrace of the Elephants (location). 

Stone figures crowd the many levels of the Terrace of the Leper King in Bayon Temple in Angkor, Cambodia.

The stadium seating at the Terrace of the Leper King.

The Terrace of the Elephants is literally a royal grandstand. This is where the Khmer Kings would watch displays, parades and events on the fields and towers to the east. The terrace gains its name from the huge carved elephants that sprout out from the stone, their trunks curling and supporting the structure. From the terrace you can look across at the ruins of the Prasat Suor Prat Towers. Originally there were 12 of these tall structures, and almost unbelievably, they were known and used as the tightrope dancer towers where dancers would perform in front of the King on ropes suspended between the tall towers. 

Three stone elephants are carved into the stone wall of the Terrace of the Elephants in the Angkor archaeological park, Cambodia.

From the Terrace of the Elephants we headed south to the incredible Baphuon Temple (location). After a sweaty climb to the top we took in the amazing views of its carved gateway and long stone causeway before making our way down to the west of the temple to find the hidden reclining Buddha. 

The view from the top of the Baphuon Temple. In front of the viewer the stone gatehouse and causeway stretch away into the forest of Angkor.

Again make sure you’ve read our one day highlights above for more information on Baphuon Temple.

After Baphuon Temple we headed north through the jungle towards Phimeanakas Temple (location). We love walking through the jungles in the Angkor temple complex. On either side you can see what must be more and more remains and ruins just waiting to be uncovered. It's one of our favourite things about the Angkor experience. Even with the beautiful temples and the restoration work that has already happened, you just know there is so much more out there! 

Carved stones sit amongst trees and roots on a path in the Angkor complex.

There must be so many more ruins hidden away in the jungle of Angkor!

The Phimeanakas Temple is frankly gorgeous. Less restored than some of its neighbours, its crumbling ruins are covered in green moss and mature trees sprout out from its stones. On each corner, stand the remains of elephant statues. 

The Phimeanakas Temple rises up in square moss covered steps in front of the viewer at the Angkor Temple Complex in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

We took the footpath north through the thick jungle passing the Women’s Pond (location) taking in the scattered remains and ruins either side of the path. We continued walking through the forest until we came to the remains of Prasat Preah Palilay (location). This was one of our favourite smaller temples. Again, like Phimeanakas, Prasat Preah Palilay has not been as extensively restored as some of the other Angkor temples, and retains its “lost in the jungle” charm. Hidden amongst the trees with the jungle crowding in on all sides, the ruins now are nearly fully overtaken by nature. On the side of the stepped central shrine, three trees sprout out, fighting for sunlight. 

Tree's grow out and around the tumbled down ruins of Prasat Preah Palilay temple in the Angkor Wat temple complex.
Three trees grow out of the foundations of the ruined Prasat Preah Palilay Temple in the Angkor archaeological park in Siem Reap, Cambodia.

From Prasat Preah Palilay, we wandered back eastwards towards the Terrace of Elephants and our waiting scooter. Just before hopping onto our next stop, we headed behind the food vendors to check out the ruins of Prasat Preah Pithu Group (location) and Prasat Khleang Khang Cheung (location). 

Back on our scooter, it was finally time to leave the Bayon Temple complex. Scootering underneath the ornate many faced Dei Chhang Gate (location) we followed the road to Prasat Preah Khan (location). 

Like Angkor Wat and Bayon Temple, Prasat Preah Khan Temple is surrounded by a square moat and walls. We walked over the naga lined bridge, through the three stone towers marking the gateway entrance into the temple park.

Headless stone statues hold a giant snake form the balustrade at the entrance to the Prasat Preah Khan temple in Angkor, Cambodia.

Prasat Preah Khan was an unexpected treasure of the whole Angkor experience. It was like a mini Angkor Wat, this beautiful temple sprawled out from its central stupas, with incredible carvings, doorways and ruined walkways. It’s a very large site - only slightly smaller than the Angkor Wat grounds, but it's far less popular than its more famous neighbours. There are walkways and paths throughout the tree sprouted ruins and all around the perimeter moat. 

Carved gods stand either side of a stone window. Through the window another ruined courtyard can be seen at the Prasat Preah Khan temple ruins in Angkor, Cambodia.
Moss covered stone ruins cover a temple wall at the Prasat Preah Khan temple in Angkor, Siem Reap.

Prasat Preah Khan is in a much more advanced state of decay than Angkor Wat or Bayon Temple. Its stones are stained green with centuries of lichen and its ruined structures give amazing views through ancient tumbledown windows, courtyards and passageways. Prasat Preah Khan is a great example of the advantages of staying a little longer in Siem Reap. If you were on a shorter itinerary you may have to sacrifice a visit here in order to get around the “main” sites. But if you have a little longer and take things a little slower you can, like us, discover this amazing gem of a temple.

Ellie stands and poses for a photograph in a red skirt on the carved walls of Prasat Preah Khan temple in Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia.

We’re so glad we had the time to come and find Prasat Preah Khan temple!

After Prasat Preah Khan, we continued a little way north to Bantey Prei Temple (location) taking in its ruined stupas and partially restored statuary before heading east along the massive man-made lake to Krol Ko (location) and the Neak Poan Temple (location). We parked up outside of Krol Ko and had a nose around this smaller temple before heading over to the lake. 

A tree is perfectly reflected in the calm waters of Neak Pean lake in Cambodia.

Neak Pean lake is stunning with lots of lily pads and pink lotus flowers!

Neak Pean is a unique temple in the Angkor complex. Set on a man-made island on a man-made lake, the temple is accessed via a long wooden jetty that stretches across the water. On either side of the jetty, lily flowers bloom and the remains of ancient trees stick out like wooden skeletons from the lake. The temple on the island is stunning. Set around several temple tanks, it almost looks like a sunken temple with its stupas rising up from the ponds and waterways on the little island. 

The circular stone stupa of Neak Pean temple rises out of muddy waters in the Angkor Park, Cambodia.

As I’m sure you can see, we had packed in a lot of exploring so far. We had started around 9am in the morning and by now it was a little after 3pm and we were reaching our daily limit for temple visiting. The weather seemed to agree with us. As we walked back across the jetty, from Neak Pean temple, we were greeted by a beautiful, but disturbing sight. On one side of us blue skies and sunshine, on the other side, the sky was so dark it was nearly black. We could see distant trees disappearing under a cloak of rain. It was time to leave! 

It turns out the time to leave was probably about 45 minutes before we did. We did not outrun the rain. It hit us around Bayon Temple and soaked us completely. We had to pull over several times as the storm was so intense we could not see more than a few feet in front of our bike. Our supposedly waterproof shoes did an admiral job keeping water inside them and by the time we arrived in Siem Reap, it looked like we had gone for a swim! We squelched back to our room for a well earned shower.

Travelling in the wet season does come with risk, however there are many advantages that make it worth risking a soaking! It’s also one of those great travel memories. We will always remember clinging onto the back of a little scooter, passing ancient temples with the rumble of thunder overhead and our boots overflowing with rain!

The many faced gate of Tonle Om is visible through driving rain. A tuk tuk is pulled to the side of the road and the vision is blurred by all the water. Taken in the wet season at Bayon Temple in the Angkor complex.

We got well and truly soaked. Wet season in Angkor Wat takes no prisoners!

Day three - exploring the temples east of Angkor Wat

Day three dawned and we headed out into town to pick up a breakfast and our picnic lunch. Our breakfast was very backpacker friendly with two bowls of Nom Banh Chok sat amongst chattering ladies in the Old Market (check out our article here for the best Cambodian breakfasts). For lunch we were slightly less backpacker-y buying some fruit and treating ourselves to some delicious French pastries from the Eric Kayser bakery in town. Provisions stowed it was time for day three of our Angkor exploration. 

This time we took the road east from Angkor Wat towards our first stop at Prasat Kravan (location). 

Five stone towers sit in a line. Taken at the Prasat Kravan temple in the Angkor temple complex of Siem Reap, Cambodia.

Set overlooking the road, Prasat Kravan was a great start to the day. A small temple with five towers set in a line, it almost looked like a gateway rather than a temple in its own right. Inside each tower, were amazing carvings of the Hindu God Vishnu. We had set off mid morning and, like had happened a few times on our Angkor adventures, we had the whole temple to ourselves. There was just us, a guard and some ladies trying to sell us drinks in the car park. 

Stone carvings of Hindu Gods are etched into the red brick wall of Prasat Kravan temple in Angkor, Cambodia.

On the scooter we rounded the corner from Prasat Kravan and spotted a little wooden sign that caught our fancy. The sign was a siren's call, one word - coffee. One of the slight oddities of the Angkor archaeological site, is the lack of coffee shops, being millennials lack of coffee is akin to a lack of oxygen. It was mid-morning and we had had no caffeine, so we had to stop. Chita’s Cafe (location) is run by a friendly lady operating out the front of her traditional wooden house. She sells everything from coffee to snacks and fried rice. We bought two cheap ($1 USD each) iced milk coffees and they were just the ticket to set us up for the rest of our temple hopping day. 

After Chita’s we had a very short ride to the carpark next to Banteay Kdei’s East Gate (location). If you park up here make sure you don’t miss the Srah Srang viewpoint (location). Just east of the gate there is a small raised stone platform looking out across Srah Srang lake.

Flowers and decorative offerings sit on the waters edge of Srah Srang lake, Angkor.

When we visited, not only did we get treated to a view over the lake but we also had the luck of running into a family performing a Buddhist rite. White clad men and women played traditional instruments, whilst laying offerings of flowers on the stone slabs overlooking the man-made lake. 

Back to the west and through the amazing four faced east gate of Banteay Kdei (location) we entered what may be one of our favourite temples of the Angkor complex. Banteay Kdei is a warren of a temple. With ruined corridors, stupas and squares sprawling out from its central points. Prasat Banteay Kdei translates to ‘A Citadel of Chambers’ and was a famous and important monastery complex. It was one of our favourites because, not only is it beautiful, but it had that perfect balance of ruin and structure.

A long corridor of rough stone and moss stretches away at the Banteay Kdei Temple, Angkor.

Banteay Kdei is full of corridors and paths to explore.

Doorways and corridors strech forward, John photobombs in the distance. taken at Banteay Kdei

A surprise John!

You could always clearly see what once was there, even if what is there now is a pile of stones. On one of the outer walls, we stumbled across a titan of a tree, growing out and through the wall itself, this towering arboreal overlord was now irrevocably part of the temple structure. Its roots were like deep sea cables stretching in knotted bunches through the walls and across the temple floors. 

Ellie poses, arms outstretched, in front of an enormous tree that has grown up and through the ruins of Banteay Kdei, Angkor

We use the Ellie system for measurements and can confidently say that this tree was many Ellies wide!

After Banteay Kdei it was time for what may be the most famous temple other than Angkor Wat itself, it was time for Jellie to go to the Tomb Raider temple of Ta Prohm (location). For a full review of our thoughts make sure you’ve read the one day highlights earlier in this article. Suffice to say, Ta Prohm is famous for a reason. Its picturesque decay, restoration and war with the encroaching jungle are spectacular and should not be missed. It is busy, but so what? It should be busy, it’s beautiful! It's also not hard to lose the crowds and find your own quiet corner of this incredible place. Also don’t miss the stegosaurus!

A giant tree grows out of the corner of Ta Prohm temple. Its roots clinging to the sides of the temple walls in the Angkor temple complex, Cambodia.

Ta Prohm Temple really does live up to the hype!

From Ta Prohm we scooted up the road north until we reached the entrance to Prasat Ta Keo (location).

John sits on the edge of the top of the stone temple of Prasat Ta Keo overlooking the Angkor jungle in Cambodia.

He looks philosophical but we all know he’s just thinking about lunch!

This temple, again, was one of those unexpected delights. We had just come from the crowds at Ta Prohm and arrived at a nearly deserted temple. We walked down the dusty path through the jungle and were greeted by an ornate gateway. Behind this, rose an impossibly steep staircase leading to the top of a stepped pyramid style temple. The stairs were so steep it was more like a ladder than a staircase, but the views from the top more than made up for the awkward climb!

After Prasat Ta Keo we crossed the road and circumnavigated the crumbling overgrown remains of Don Mao Temple (location). 

Trees grow in amongst the overgrown ruins of Don Mao temple in Angkor, Cambodia.

Back on the scooter it was nearing lunchtime and so it was time for us to find our picnic spot. Passing the busy stalls of Srah Srang Market, we followed the lakeside road until we reached the northeastern corner of the lake. We hopped off our bike and found a tree shaded spot on the waters edge. Sat on an ancient wall we tucked into our picnic. Overlooking the small temple in the middle of the lake it was a memorable location for a light lunch. 

The stone stupa of Srah Srang temple rises above the waters of the lake in the Angkor archaeological park, Siem Reap.

Not a bad spot for a bite to eat!

Pastries devoured we got back on the bike and headed eastward to Pre Rup Temple (location). Looking like an amalgam of Prasat Kravan and Prasat Ta Keo, Pre Rup Temple was a tall stone stepped structure with a collection of stupas set into its crown.

An intricately carved stone door stands closed at the ruins of Pre Rup temple in Angkor.

“Speak friend and enter”…

With great views over the surrounding area and statues of lions guarding every approach, the temple was super impressive. The carved doors looked like they should open up to the Mines of Moria!

Honestly, you’re so spoiled in the Angkor complex, if you took Pre Rup out of Cambodia and popped it down in any other country it would instantly become one of the countries top historical attractions. The temples all throughout the Angkor archaeological park are huge. We’re probably not doing them justice in our descriptions here, they absolutely dwarf the historic sites we’ve seen before. 

A steep stone staircase leads to the stupa crowned top of Pre Rup temple in Cambodia.

We left the towering stupas of Pre Rup behind and followed the road north. Passing Pre Rup’s ancient lake and vibrant green paddy fields we eventually reached the junction to Road 810. It was here where we took a detour and drove out east towards Banteay Samre Temple.

Passing through the town of Preah Dak, the road was lined on either side with restaurants roasting whole pigs. The smell of roasting pork clung to us as we drove on through and we regretted having already eaten lunch. If you do not pack a picnic lunch you could easily stop here and have a Cambodian feast. Leaving the busy town behind we eventually reached the carpark for Banteay Samre Temple. 

 

Ignore Google Maps which will tell you to turn off right down a dirt road to reach the temple. It is easily accessible from the main road, just drive a little further on from where it tells you to turn off and there will be a clearly marked car park. 

 

Banteay Samre Temple (location) was another deserted treasure when we visited. It felt very different from the temples we had seen over our last two days as instead of rising up behind its entrance, the temple sank down behind its ornate gates and walls. The stupas rose up from steep, sunken wells with raised walkways joining them together.

Temples and walkways rise up out of the sunken foundations of Banteay Samre temple in the Angkor complex, Cambodia.

The outer walls were covered in windows, each one filled with ornate, stone blinds. These carved columns let light and air through whilst giving enough shade to deflect the worst of the Cambodian heat. Banteay Samre Temple is a little out of the way of the normal circuit, but is well worth the detour. 

The outer red stone walls of Banteay Samre Temple. A doorway is surrounded by stone blinded windows and crowned with an ornately carved lintel.

Doubling back on ourselves we headed back west towards the junction we had turned off of earlier and headed north towards Eastern Mebon Temple (location). Eastern Mebon Temple was another stunner full of tall angular stupas and dotted with huge elephant statues guarding every corner of the upper square platform. 

A stone statue of an elephant stands guard at a corner of the ruins of East Mebon temple in the Angkor temple complex, Cambodia.

Our final stop and temple of our three day temple hopping expedition was the beautiful Ta Som Temple (location). 

Another hidden jungle gem, Ta Som Temple let us finish on a high. Completely hidden in the jungle, we approached along a tree lined path towards the stone carved gateway. Inside it was a true lost world. It was just us and the crumbing remains of ancient history. Lichen and moss covered bas reliefs and stone carved statues stared out from every corner of the crumbling ruins. Four faced gatehouses rose amongst the trees and what must have been grand pathways were half hidden by the jungle floor. It was our favourite kind of feeling, the almost innocent wonder of discovery. We knew millions had been there before but then and there with just us, the temple and the swaying trees it felt like we had just stumbled across a lost civilisation. 

The moss and tree covered ruins of Ta Som temple are surrounded by the Angkor forest in Cambodia.

From here we took the scenic route back home. As opposed to the soggy downpours of our previous expedition we could enjoy cruising back along the lake, around Bayon temple, through the gatehouses and past Angkor Wat back to Siem Reap. This victory lap marked the end of our three day Angkor Pass and our adventures through the ancient ruins. 

Longer stays in Siem Reap - The seven day Angkor Pass

If you have the time, we would honestly recommend purchasing the seven day Angkor Pass. It is not much more expensive than the three day ticket and offers you so much more flexibility. We bought the three day pass but by the third day, we wished we had bought the seven day pass. Remember you cannot extend your ticket, the only way to spend more time in the park is to buy another full ticket. 

With seven days we could have spaced out all of our visits, not rolled the dice with the weather and done everything at a more relaxed pace. With more time we could have easily decided to come up just for a sunset at Srah Srang or Phnom Bakheng or treated ourselves to multiple sunrises across Angkor Wat and the temple park. 

The seven day pass is valid for seven days entry over a month period, so if you were looping back to Siem Reap as part of a bigger Cambodian adventure it would make a lot of sense to spend the extra and get the seven day pass. 

If we had stayed longer we would have loved to have visited some of the further flung temples such as Phnom Bok (location) with its hilltop ruins and 1000 steps or the giant lake and ruins at West Mebon (location) and Prasat Ak Yum.

What we would have mainly done with a seven day pass though, is take it slow and stop everywhere. With only three days to explore and the weather closing in, we were always conscious about making extra stops. As you can see from our itinerary, we crammed a lot into three days and we were at risk of being “templed out”. Even with this hectic itinerary, we found ourselves driving past side-roads and signposts missing out on other hidden temples. 

Looking through a stone window into the forest at Prasat Preah Khan temple in Angkor.

A slower approach over seven days would give you the luxury of, at any time, going: “you know what that’s enough temples for today, let’s go for a beer on Pub Street”. With a longer pass you’d be able to take it easy without ever feeling that you were going to miss out.

If you have the time, get a seven day pass. We stayed in Siem Reap for a good long while and when our pass expired it was frustrating to see how much it would cost us to buy one more day's access compared to how much it would have been if we had just bought the seven day pass in the first place. Next time we’ll know better!

Opening times - When can I visit the Angkor Wat complex?

The official opening times of the Angkor Wat complex vary from temple to temple. 

Most temples are only open from 7.30am until 5.30pm everyday. 

The exceptions are the sunrise temples of Angkor Wat and Phnom Bakheng which will open from 5am for sunrise

Do check with local guides though when you’re in Siem Reap as in the summer seasons the temples will frequently be open as early as 4am to keep up with the sunrise.

Angkor Wat - Private tour and guides

As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Angkor Wat and the Angkor archaeological park has tonnes of curated tour options. You can arrange a tour on the ground in Siem Reap from any of the local tour agencies or even just asking any remorque driver.

For backpackers, your hostel will definitely offer group tours at good prices and for those staying in hotels and guesthouses your host / reception staff will easily be able to arrange a tour for you. Just make sure you shop around. Remember groups will get better prices and everything is always negotiable! 

As we’ve mentioned before, you can always hire a taxi driver for the day and use this guide to specify where you want to go. Even if you arrange a tour guide, you can ask them to stop at certain places. Check your itinerary before you go and use our blog to make sure you don’t miss some of the incredible but lesser known temples.

If you’re arranging transport yourself: outside all of the larger temples (Angkor Wat, Bayon Temple, Ta Prohm etc) there are plenty of tour guides offering their service.

If you want to plan a head and have more choice over your Angkor Wat experience, then check out Get Your Guide below. They offer a huge variety of top-rated tours including private tours, the best walking tours, cycling tours as well as sunrise and sunset at Angkor Wat. The tours that they offer are all vetted and rated by customers so you can make sure you are picking the right tour for you.

What to wear in Siem Reap? Dress code at Angkor Wat

Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples are a really special site, so dress up for the occasion! 

The temples within the Angkor complex are, you guessed it, temples and as such, should be treated with respect. 

There is a strict dress code across many of the sites where shoulders and knees must be covered with no crop tops or revealing clothing allowed. Some sites will let you in to see parts of them without this dress code, but there will be large portions you cannot visit. 

Ellie poses in a stone doorway of the Pre Rup temple wearing a long red skirt and black t-shirt.

We would recommend wearing loose light clothing and a good pair of shoes as there is a lot of walking and clambering to do.

If you’re travelling in the wet season, make sure you pack a good waterproof coat and umbrella.

Tips for visiting Angkor Wat and the Angkor archaeological park

Our essential tips for making the most out of your visit to the Angkor archaeological park:

Toilets

There are free public toilets located throughout the whole Angkor archaeological complex. Check out Google Maps for exact locations. If you are at one of the major temples there will be toilets on hand. Just pack some loo paper and hand sanitiser! 

Food and drink

Wherever there is a carpark there are food and drink vendors. They vary from pick up and go to full sit down restaurants. Around the temples themselves these restaurants are more of the makeshift variety - large stalls with plastic chairs and tables under awnings. If you’re looking for a more restaurant-y restaurant check out the offerings around Srah Srang lake and opposite the Angkor Wat main car park.

For snacks and drinks there are plenty of small shops and vendors.

Inside the archaeological park, food and drink cost considerably more than in Siem Reap. For backpackers like us, we’d recommend stocking up in town and filling your scooter with cold water, snacks and whatever lunch you want - for cheap eats check out the markets in town! 

If you’re going to Ta Prohm and east of the Angkor Wat complex, definitely check out Preah Dak village. It seemed like every second house was roasting a whole pig and the crackling looked delicious. There were also lots of market stalls selling the traditional Cambodian sticky rice treats.

Water seemed to be a standard price within the park at 50 cents for a small bottle. Make sure you drink plenty of water, you will be walking a long way if you’re having an exploration day around Angkor.

Sunscreen and bug spray

The sun holds no prisoners and you really don’t want to burn. Even on cloudy days the UV levels can be extreme, make sure you’re fully basted in SPF. 

The park is surrounded by jungle and water, a haven for our buzzing little friends. Before heading to the park, spray yourself liberally with bug spray! We didn’t use deet and just stuck with the cheap backpacker 7-11 favourite and it seemed to do the trick, barring a couple of itchy exceptions. 

Photography in Angkor 

Personal photography is completely fine including using a tripod anywhere in the park. If you want to do professional photography you will need to obtain written permission first. 


Drones are not allowed anywhere in the park without explicit written permission from the authorities. 

We saw signs throughout the park which said that 180 degree photography (i.e ultra-wide) was not allowed and had photos of GoPro’s as one of the possible not allowed cameras. This did not seem to be the case or being enforced anywhere as the GoPro seemed to be the most common camera we saw in Siem Reap.

The three towers of Pre Rup temple sit at the top of a steep stone staircase in the Angkor archaeological park, Cambodia.

Climbing the Angkor monuments

Lots of the ancient temples can be climbed. Sometimes the steps to the top are renovated wooden staircases with handrails but a lot of the time they are ancient, crumbling small stepped, near vertical staircases. Be sensible, only climb what you are comfortable with and don’t climb anything with signs saying not to! 

John climbs on all fours up the steep steps of Baksei Chamkrong temple in the Angkor complex, Siem Reap, Cambodia

He’s like a mountain goat!

Visiting Angkor in the rainy season

Cambodia’s wet season runs from May to October. During this time there will be frequent torrential downpours. It’s the low season for tourism in the country which means there will be less crowds and much cheaper accommodation. 

It is actually a great idea to visit Angkor Wat and the Angkor complex during the rainy season. There will be far fewer crowds and queues and you will frequently get whole temples to yourself. That being said, visiting during the rainy season requires much more flexibility and a little more planning than visiting in the dry season. You will need to work around the heavy rains, so if you only have one day in Siem Reap it might be difficult to see everything you want.

A view out through the window of Angkor Wat's Northern Library. The view is windswept and rainy.

We visited during July slap bang in the middle of the wet season and over our three day Angkor Pass we did get soaked once, however we also got Angkor Wat without the crowds, Bayon Temple with nearly no-one else there and all of the smaller temples all to ourselves.

Photos of Angkor Wat - Temples, ruins and incredible history!

We took too many photos at the Angkor archaeological park, have a look at some of our favourite shots below.

How to get to Siem Reap

Siem Reap is very well connected by transport both nationally in Cambodia and internationally.

Flying to Siem Reap

Siem Reap International Airport has flights to Bangkok, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and many more. 

To book flights to Siem Reap, check out the widget below.

Getting to Siem Reap by bus

You can reach Siem Reap by bus from all over Cambodia, there are dozens of different operators plying every route imaginable. If you want to book your seat in advance, we’d recommend using 12Go.

If you’re travelling internationally from Thailand or Laos there are plenty of bus operators that will help you cross the border and get you to Siem Reap. 

If you’re travelling from Vietnam you will need to book tickets via Phnom Penh. Virak Buntham bus company offers this connection.

Where to stay in Siem Reap

Siem Reap is almost certainly Cambodia’s top tourist destination and therefore there is plenty of accommodation to choose from. 

If you’re looking for social hostels to stay in, then why not check out Onederz, Mad Monkey or Pomme Hostel. Onederz and Mad Monkey are very close to the popular Pub Street and offer lots of social activities, bar crawls and tours. Pomme hostel is on the other side of the river, but makes up for it, by having its own brewery!

For a budget friendly hotel with a pool, we scored a fantastic deal with the Rithy Rine Angkor Residence. Visiting in the wet season we had a four poster bed, massive AC room and private bathroom for $12 a night! 

A four poster bed sits on a chequer board floor at the Rithy Rine Hotel in Siem Reap.

Our bougie budget room at Rithy Rine!

On our first visit to Siem Reap we also had a fantastic stay at the Angkor Leap hotel which again had a pool and comfy private rooms. 

For those looking for some luxury in their Siem Reap stay, there are plenty of high-end hotels to pamper yourself with. We’ve heard great things of the Anansaya La Maison. The Eightfold Urban Resort looks super stylish and amazing. For classic elegance have a look at the Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor or for more modern luxury vibes check out Viroth’s Hotel.

For all the accommodation available in Siem Reap and the Angkor complex, check out our handy widget below.

Final thoughts - Is Angkor Wat worth the hype?

Angkor Wat and the surrounding archaeological park are wonders of the world. We’ve spent over 11,000 words gushing about our time there and how amazing it is. We think we can safely say that Angkor temples are worth every bit of the hype and fame they enjoy. From the jaw dropping scale of Angkor Wat and the many faces of Bayon Temple, to the beauty of the ruins and jungle overtaken remains of Ta Prohm, the temples, monasteries and palaces of the ancient city of Angkor are incredible. We have run out of superlatives, we have used the word 'incredible' fifteen times (now sixteen) in this article but there really is no other word for Angkor. It defies credulity. 

The many faces and towers of Bayon Temple stare down at the viewer in the Angkor historic park, Cambodia.

Angkor Wat and the temple cities of Angkor have survived thousands of years of history, from being sacked by the Cham, invaded by the Ayutthayan’s and abandoned to the jungle, to the more recent tumultuous history of Cambodia. It is a miracle any of these temples survived, let alone the vast city sized wonders we have today. Angkor is the most famous tourist attraction in Cambodia for a reason. It is an absolute must on any Cambodia itinerary. Wet or dry, short visit or long stay, you need to make time to explore Angkor. If you like us, love the feeling of exploration, the romance of ruins and the freedom to explore at your own pace, there really is no where in the world quite like the temples of Angkor.

Thanks for reading,


John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie

John and Ellie pose in front of the Banteay Kdei temple entrance in the Angkor historic park, Siem Reap.

To help plan your trip to Angkor, make sure you read our one week, two week and one month Cambodia itineraries!


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