Kuang Si Falls - A Natural Wonder in Northern Laos
The Kuang Si Waterfall is one of the most beautiful natural sights in northern Laos. A spectacular many tiered waterfall cascading through the Laotian jungle, Kuang Si Falls attracts visitors from all over the globe. Explorable all year round, Kuang Si Falls can be ephemeral, beautiful and delicate or a thundering spectacle of overwhelming power. The falls’ waters swell or calm from season to season.
The Kuang Si Falls lie a little way outside of the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang in Northern Laos. We have visited Kuang Si Waterfall three times now, both in the wet and the dry seasons; each time has been unique and amazing.
This is our guide to the Kuang Si Waterfalls - our thoughts on how to get to, what to look out for and how to make the most out of these incredible Laotian waterfalls.
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How to get to Kuang Si Waterfall - Where are the waterfalls?
Kuang Si Falls are 18 miles (29 km) south-west of the city of Luang Prabang in Northern Laos. It is around an hour's drive thanks to the poor condition of the roads.
You can find Kuang Si Falls on a map here.
You have a few main choices of ways to get to Kuang Si Falls:
Getting to Kuang Si Falls by Tuk Tuk / Songthaew
The most popular way to get to Kuang Si Falls is definitely via one the large songthaews found throughout Luang Prabang. For those who don't know; a songthaew is a sort of flatbed truck with bench seating, open sides and a roof, all welded to a large motorbike. They are often very colourfully decorated and you will find them everywhere in South East Asia. You can easily seat 6-10 people in one, depending on how friendly and cosy you want to be with your travelling companions!
You can find tuk tuk drivers parked up all over Luang Prabang!
These songthaews or tuk tuks can be picked up on nearly every street corner in Luang Prabang. The exact cost of the songthaew will vary but it should cost around 400,000 kip for a taxi to take you to the falls. This price will include the journey to the falls, parking fees and for the driver to wait for you and drive you home. You may have to do a little haggling to get the right price but there are so many tuk tuk drivers you won't get stuck! The price is for the whole songthaew so the more people you can party up with, the cheaper the trip will be. Our first trip to Kuang Si Falls was by a tuk tuk. We just wandered up to one parked on the street, negotiated a price and hopped in.
The road to Kuang Si is not fantastic (more of this later) so do not expect a comfy ride. There will be a lot of bouncing over potholes and splashing through puddles, especially in the rainy season. Also, as the tuk tuks are open sided,you may get a bit soggy if it rains!
A younger Ellie on her first trip to the Kuang Si Falls!
Kuang Si Falls by Private Tour or Taxi
Every tour agency in Luang Prabang, as well as all of the hotels, hostels and guesthouses, will be able to book you onto a tour taking you to Kuang Si Falls. These will usually be done in white minivans. The minivans are much comfier than a tuk tuk and will have air conditioning. The cost of this will vary wildly depending on the level of luxury the tour provides and how many people would be joining you on it. You can see some examples of tours here on Get Your Guide.
On our second visit to Luang Prabang we had an incredibly luxurious experience being shuttled to Kuang Si Falls for a sumptuous breakfast beneath the waterfall, this was much more expensive than the other options here but would make sense if you are on a holiday and looking for a spot of pampering. For a guide on living the high life in Luang Prabang check out our article here.
Driving yourself - Taking a Scooter or Bike to Kuang Si Falls
By far the cheapest option to get to Kuang Si Waterfall is, unsurprisingly, to drive yourself. You can rent a scooter or a bicycle from pretty much anywhere in Luang Prabang. The prices for scooters seems to be set around 150,000 kip per day and bicycles vary in price depending on the kind of bike you want.
When renting a scooter always check the bike first and record a video of the condition you rent it in.
Make sure to get helmets for all riders and do not rent a bike if you are not confident riding! Your travel insurance will almost certainly not cover any bike accident!
The route to Kuang Si Falls is not on great roads. There are massive, road spanning potholes, large lorries and endless streams of minivans and songthaews all along the route to the falls. If it has been raining the potholes are especially treacherous - you cannot tell how deep they are until you are in them! Oncoming cars and vans will frequently drive on the wrong side of the road in order to avoid the rough patches so you do have to be on your toes. We would not recommend driving yourself unless you are properly confident on scooters.
However, if you are confident riding, it is a fun and exciting journey through some lovely countryside. On our most recent visit, at the tail end of the wet season, we drove ourselves to Kuang Si Falls. It was not a relaxing experience but it was good fun and there is always something magical about scootering along rice terrace lined roads in South East Asia!
Petrol is cheap in Laos - we got a full tank from empty for around 70,000 kip on our little 125cc scooter.
For those who do not mind a bit of a challenge you can rent a bicycle in town and cycle yourself to Kuang Si Falls. This will (obviously) take quite a bit longer but would be a lovely way of getting out and about and having a bit of exercise. The initial ride out of Luang Prabang would be a little unpleasant as it is a large road through a built up area, but the roads thin out quickly and become much prettier. Just make sure you pack a lot of water. It gets very hot in Laos and cycling up a hill in 30 degree heat is no joke!
If you are scootering to the falls the journey should take between 50 minutes to an hour. If you are cycling… well you tell us in the comments, you are definitely more dedicated than us!
You can see a map of the route below:
There are several places you can stop off at on the way to Kuang Si falls. The route is dotted with pretty cafe’s and restaurants for a snack or a meal. There is also Luang Prabang’s famous Buffalo Dairy (located here), where you can treat yourselves to a luxurious cheese plate or a buffalo ice cream!
Opening times for Kuang Si Falls Park
Kuang Si Waterfalls are open between 8:00 AM and 5:00 PM every day of the week.
There are some tours that may give you early private access to the park.
Ticket Prices to Kuang Si Falls - How to Enter the Waterfall Park
The ticket price for entrance to Kuang Si Falls is 60,000 kip per person. This entrance fee covers: a shuttle bus to the falls, entrance to the Kuang Si Waterfall Park and a visit to the Free the Bears Rescue Centre. The ticket price does not cover entrance to the Butterfly Park or entrance to “The View” - more on this later.
However you travelled to the falls, you will arrive at a large car park and ticket office (here on a map). If you have driven yourself to the falls, there is a 5000 kip parking fee for scooters. If you came by songthaew or with a tour, this parking fee should have been included in the cost. If you have a tour or a tuk tuk make sure you note down their licence number and agree where to meet back up with them after you have finished in the falls - there are a lot of minivans in the car park!
You buy your tickets from the counter and then jump on one of the oversized golf carts / electric buses from the stand to the left. You will then be ferried a short way up the hill to the entrance of the park.
If you need drinks, food or souvenirs, there are lots of stalls both at the lower car park and around the park entrance. The prices are, understandably, a bit higher than buying from a shop in town but not extortionately so. We needed water and paid 10,000 kip for a 500ml bottle.
There are a few restaurants around the park entrance and on the route between the falls and the car park but, as we didn't try them, we cannot comment if they are any good.
On the road between the ticket office and the entrance to Kuang Si Falls there is the Kuang Si Butterfly Park (located here). This calm garden and cafe offers tours for 100,000 kip per person and, at least according to the reviews, is beautiful and full of interesting butterflies.
We did not make it to the Butterfly Park on our trips to Kuang Si - if you do go let us know how it was in the comments!
After you get off of the electric shuttle buggy, you just walk up to the gateway, present your ticket and enter the park.
Kuang Si Waterfalls and Park - What is There and What is it Like?
As soon as we entered the park the hubbub of the people and electric buses in the landing area died away and we were surrounded by green plants and towering trees. The park is beautiful with many varieties of trees and species of animals calling it home. There are plaques everywhere explaining the delicate ecosystem and giving information on the various flora and fauna.
A winding mud path leads away from the park entrance and brought us quickly to:
Free the Bears - Tat Kuang Si Bear Rescue Centre
Free the Bears is a fantastic rescue charity that takes in orphaned and rescued bears and gives them a safe place to live and, where possible, rehabilitates them for release in the wild. The sanctuary at Kuang Si Falls forms the organisation's “Bear Discovery Trail” which educates visitors on the bears as well as showing the terrible situations that they need to be rescued from (do not search bile farms - they are horrific).
The bears at the Kuang Si Bear Sanctuary are all rescued moon bears. The bears live in large enclosures with viewing platforms and windows for visitors. The moon bears are unique and (to our eyes) extremely cute creatures, with soft fur and expressive faces. Every time we have visited the bears have been lolling around, snoozing on hammocks or lounging on wooden platforms.
The centre has a small shop and donations are always welcome. Free the Bears also runs a much larger wildlife sanctuary outside of Luang Prabang. The charity operates in Cambodia, Vietnam and India as well as Laos. Free the Bears is the largest bear rescue charity in the world, you can read more about their amazing work here.
The sanctuary is very tastefully done and blends in wonderfully to the surrounding forest. On our first visit to Kuang Si we were completely unaware of the bear sanctuary so it was a fantastic surprise!
The Kuang Si Waterfall
The main event, the reason we had shaken our bones, bounced through potholes and driven an hour out of town was the Kuang Si Falls. After admiring the bears we continued down the path and soon came to the first “layer” of the waterfalls.
The water bubbles and spills down shallow falls into huge, wide pools. Layers of rock-pools, shelves and deep plunge pools all crowd together and spill into each other.
In the dry season the water is electric blue, clear and inviting. The lower falls are gentle and the area perfect for swimming. In the wet season however, the water is a churning torrent, a thundering mass of water, stained brown by the sediment and mud gouged out by its raging power. Both seasons are equally impressive but in totally opposite ways!
Kuang Si Falls is a three tierd waterfall. The second tier is a wide many layered shelf stretching out across the jungle. The waters flowing over the smooth worn lips of the many edged fall. Trees stand in and around the falls, some fully underwater, some clinging precariously to the rock’s edge. This area is again perfect for a swim in the dry season. The wet season means no swimming (usually) but it does make the falls extra impressive as tonnes more water pours over and through them.
The main falls defy description, although we will try. Kuang Si Falls main waterfall is a cascade 60 metres high (200 feet). The water drops in ribbons and curtains down the rocky face of the falls, its descent splitting and rejoining, broken by the uneven boulders in its path. The falls are a wedding cake of falling water, layers bulge out or drop in and the water cascades over everything. In the dry season the falls can look delicate with white ribbons of water elegantly cascading down like braids of hair. In the wet season the waterfalls are mighty and thunder down with a raging, boiling power.
In the wet season the water cascades down the Kuang Si Falls ferociously!
Bridges and viewing platforms are dotted about giving multiple angles to see the falls from. Even when Kuang Si Falls get busy there was always somewhere you could find to take a great photo or selfie. The falls have done a great job at preserving their beautiful forest setting. There are no gaudy plastic signs or mascots intruding on the view and even the picnic area blends into the forest setting.
The waterfalls are incredible, they are one of the most beautiful in the world and, whenever you visit Laos, Kuang Si is an essential visit.
The Legend of Kuang Si Falls
The legend of the falls is that a wise old sage dug down in the earth at Kuang Si and found the Nam Si river. Enticed by the new water a golden deer made its home under a special rock in the falls. Kuang translates to Deer and Si to dig - Deer Dig Falls! The sound of water on the deers rocky home was meant to be so beautiful it summoned people from all around. Sadly the rock is no more as it was destroyed in an earthquake in 2001
The Secret Pools of Kuang Si
Right, full disclaimer - You probably cannot get to these pools any more. You certainly cannot get to them by any official means and they may be totally inaccessible in the wet season. That all being said, we wanted an excuse to show off some photos of a magical place, even if it is now gone.
Once upon a time, in the long, long ago of 2023, you could take an overgrown hiking trail on the left hand side of the main waterfall, the trail wound up the side of Kuang Si Falls and led you to a hidden worlds at the top. We did this hike after enjoying a very bougie breakfast next to the falls, but the hike was anything but glamorous. It was a dilapidated route where the stairs were fading into the hillside and the handrails were rotted and crumbling. In places you could see an even older path, its stairways now new channels for the waterfalls, the steps covered by rushing water. It is no wonder it no longer exists.
At the top of the short but steep trail was a misty wonderland. The pools at the top of the falls were magical, still and calm. The water reflecting the trees and plants all around them. We came up in the early morning and the mist hung low, coating everything in an extra layer of beauty and mystery.
There were wooden walkways to lookout points, swings over the pools and even what looked like the remains of a wooden cafe, all gently mouldering away in the woods, it was an amazing magical place.
We are not sure if the fairy pools at the top are completely inaccessible now. The old trail is definitely gone, as the new metal stairs up to “The View” have been built on top of the old path. There is another hiking trail you can do in the dry season from the far side of the waterfall's lower layers but we cannot say if that goes to the same place. You can still see the old trail from the stairs to “The View”; on the left and right of the staircase, you can sometimes glimpse the remains of the mud path and steps - we do not recommend going off trail to explore by yourself!
Back then in 2023, we came back down from the pools and noticed a sign near the start of the trail. A new cafe and adventure centre called “The View” was going to be built, the trail would soon be inaccessible.
“The View Cafe” and Zip Line
Enough with what was! 2024 saw the opening of “The View” a cafe and zipline course at the top of Kuang Si Waterfalls. You can find the entrance to the left of the falls, where a metal staircase leads up 570 steps to a treehouse cafe and zipline.
On our latest visit to Kuang Si, as we were unable to get to the secret pools anymore, we thought we would check out the new attraction - “The View”. The climb was definitely steep and hot and by the time we had got to the top (past all the encouraging signs telling us how many calories we had burned) we were sweaty and very much in need of a cold drink.
The treehouse cafe has a 30,000 kip entrance fee but this includes a soft drink so really isn't bad value. There are quite a few negative reviews of “The View” but honestly we found it well worth the cost.
Most of the negative reviews were from people who had not seen the sign about the cafe entrance cost. The negative reviewers were, understandably, annoyed at climbing 500+ stairs only to find out they couldn't go any further or enjoy any view without paying! We had known about the cafe, and its entrance fee, and by the time we reached the top, were very much looking forward to an ice cold drink!
The view from the cafe is fantastic, we could see right out across the hills and deep forests carpeting the area all around. What you cannot see from “The View” is Kuang Si Falls! This may also have helped create some of the negative comments in their reviews but, again, as long as you know this going in, you won't be disappointed. The view is spectacular even if it doesn't include the famous falls.
“The View” at Kuang Si really does live up to its name!
Kuang Si Zipline
The zipline is a five part course that brings you the whole way back down, around the falls to the park entrance. It cost $25 dollars per person and we kind of wish we had splurged the cash and done it…. Sometimes you do have to sacrifice when on a backpackers budget. If you do the zipline let us know in the comments how it was, we can imagine it is a great treat if you have brought your kids to Laos!
When to Visit Kuang Si Waterfalls - What Season and What Time of Day?
Kuang Si Falls in the Dry Season
The dry season in Laos runs from November to April.
The most popular time to visit Laos as a whole is the dry season. Visiting in the dry is a solid choice for Kuang Si Waterfalls: You increase your chance of sunshine and make it much more likely you will be able to swim in the pools. The water will be clear and a vibrant blue colour and the main falls will be a delicate, beautiful sight.
Most people visit Luang Prabang in the dry season so it will be much busier during this time.
During the dry season the water at Kuang Si is vibrant blue!
Kuang Si Falls in the Wet Season
The wet season in Laos runs between May and October.
If you find yourself in Luang Prabang in the wet season, the falls still make an incredible day out. The delicate serene falls and pools are transformed into raging, pounding torrents. The main falls just explode with water. Kuang Si in the wet season is a completely different beast from the falls in the dry season.
There are drawbacks to visiting in the wet season; you probably won't be able to swim as the water is too fast and too powerful to be safe. You are also increasing your chance of being rained on and having a more uncomfortable journey to and from the falls. Further, if it is grey and misty you won't get the panoramic views from the top of “The View”.
That all being said, we visited at the tail end of the wet season and had a beautiful sunny day admiring the water as it crashed and poured down the falls. The falls in full force are an incredible sight, if you are in Laos in the wet season there is no reason not to visit Kuang Si Falls, just try and plan around the weather!
In the wet season the water turns into a cloudy, raging torrent!
Visiting the Falls - What Time of Day is Best?
The falls are obviously gorgeous all day long but they are also one of the most popular things to do in Luang Prabang so it can get crowded. Depending when you go you may find yourself in a massive throng of people or waiting in a queue of minivans as they navigate the pothole infested roads to the waterfall.
Remember that lots of people visiting Luang Prabang are doing so on guided tours and many of them will be following the same itinerary - Alms giving at dawn, then breakfast, then on to Kuang Si Falls. Or Alms giving, the National Museum, a tour of the main temples, lunch and then off to the falls. This means you can avoid the crowds by either going very early in the morning when the falls first open or hanging back a little to arrive after the 1st wave has left and before the 2nd wave arrives.
We have done both of these, the early morning option was wonderful, with the park nearly entirely to ourselves. We were having a very luxurious stay in Luang Prabang courtesy of John’s parents (read all about it here) and had arrived for breakfast at the falls as soon as it had opened. There was barely anyone else there and we got to explore the falls pretty much by ourselves. The tour package we were on may have had some kind of early access permission, so check with your hotel / hostel / guest house or tour agency if you are looking at doing this.
On our latest trip to Luang Prabang we were firmly in ‘budget backpacking mode’ and drove ourselves to the falls late morning arriving around 11:30. Our route to the falls had quiet roads with nearly no traffic going the same way as us. However, there were quite a few minivans leaving the falls and driving back towards Luang Prabang. The falls were busy but not stuffed and we could easily get good photos and didn't have to queue for anything. On our way back to Luang Prabang there was a near constant chain of white minivans trundling their way towards the falls, it looked like it would be a very busy place in the afternoon!
Facilities at Kuang Si Falls
Toilets
There are toilets scattered throughout the waterfall park. They are Western style but can get a bit muddy and wet as people use them as changing rooms for swimming in the falls. If you are looking for more comfortable toilets, check out the restaurant or “The View” cafe (although you will have to hike up 570 steps for that one).
Food and Drink
There are food stalls selling barbecued meats and fish as well as stir fries and Laotian dishes outside the park entrance as well as down the road the electric bus travels. Inside the park there is a large restaurant serving Western and Lao food. “The View” cafe has a small menu of food, drinks and alcohol. The food and drink in and around the park are more expensive than in town. Other than a can of Sprite at the top of “The View” we haven't tried the cafes and restaurants - please let us know in the comments if you have!
Kuang Si Falls - Is it worth it?
Obviously the answer is yes! Whatever the season, Kuang Si Falls are incredible. They are one of the most beautiful waterfalls on earth and deserve all the hype and praise they get. Photographs really do not show the true scale of the waterfalls at Kuang Si, you have to see them in person. We have visited Luang Prabang 3 times in the last 10 years and every time we do, we go to see the incredible waterfalls at Kuang Si, they are simply that good!
So many times a region's “number one attraction” can be a disappointment. Overcrowded or overhyped, Instagram perfection failing in reality or just commercialised beyond belief, an area’s “main draw” can fail in so many ways. Kuang Si Falls does not fail, it does not disappoint. Reality beats Instagram every time here in Northern Laos.
No online image can beat seeing the Kuang Si Falls in real life!
Kuang Si Falls are a highlight, not just of Luang Prabang but of Laos as a whole. Despite its popularity and the crowds it draws, Kuang Si Falls is an absolutely essential visit on any trip to Luang Prabang. It was a fantastic trip for us. Three times and counting so far!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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