Nong Khiaw - The Complete Guide
Nong Khiaw in northern Laos is a backpacker haven full of beautiful hiking trails, amazing viewpoints and great kayaking on the Nam Ou river. Read our complete guide to this incredible town. Find out: What to do, where to eat and where to have some fun drinks!
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Nong Khiaw is special, in our adventures we have been lucky enough to go to so many wonderful places, from off the beaten path to tourist hubs, we’ve had some fantastic experiences, however Nong Khiaw was easily one of the best. Nestled within tall limestone mountains, with the Nam Ou river snaking through the centre of town, Nong Khiaw is a beautiful backpacker haven in the north of Laos. This small town boasts great restaurants, bars, accommodation choices and jaw dropping scenery and activities. In this blog we’re going to run you through our recommendations for what to do, what to eat and where to drink in this incredible Laotian mountain town.
Contents:
Nong Khiaw town viewed from the Pha Noi viewpoint, it’s a lovely little town!
How to get to and from Nong Khiaw?
Being a backpacker hub, Nong Khiaw is pretty well connected. With buses running regularly to towns and cities all around. The cities of Luang Prabang and Oudomxay (also known as Muang Xai or Oudomxai) are only about three hours away by bus.
For better or worse (we think for the better) Nong Khiaw is not on the new high speed railway line, so if you are travelling by train from Vientiane or Vang Vieng, you will need to travel to either Luang Prabang or Oudomxay and book onward travel by bus or taxi.
We travelled to Nong Khiaw from Luang Namtha in the north. We hope your journey is easier than ours, as ours was a bumpy seven hour ride punctuated by having to change the two front tyres on the minibus.
It could have been worse though, the people in front of us were all sitting on beer crates rather than seats… it's the gamble you take when travelling in Laos!
Tip: Get to the bus station early with a ticket already purchased to make sure you get an actual seat on the bus!
Tickets for the minibuses can usually be booked in advance through your accommodation or online. For online booking, we’d recommend using 12Go.
We booked our tickets both to and from Nong Khiaw via our accommodation. One ticket from Luang Namtha to Nong Khiaw cost 230,000 kip each (£11.39 or $13.70) this included a tuk tuk taxi from our accommodation in the centre of Luang Namtha to the bus station. One ticket from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang cost 100,000 kip each (£4.95 or $5.95) this also included a tuk tuk taxi from our accommodation in Nong Khiaw to the bus station.
Tip: In lots of the places in Laos, you will find the bus station isn’t anywhere near the centre of town. In Nong Khiaw this isn’t too bad as the distance is still walkable. When we arrived, it took us about 15 minutes to walk into town with our backpacks. In both Luang Namtha and Luang Prabang, the bus stations are well outside the main towns and accommodation areas, therefore you will need to factor in the price of a tuk tuk to your total ticket price. This is often quite high as the tuk tuk drivers know that you don’t really have a choice. Our tip would be to unite with your fellow bus travellers and increase your negotiation power as a group.
When Should You Visit Nong Khiaw?
We visited Nong Khiaw in late January and it was perfect. Hot, clear, sunny days but with much cooler nights. When we visited there was an unusual cold snap at night and temperatures did drop to around 6 degrees celsius, but by this point we would usually be huddled cosily in a bar, so we didn’t mind.
The best time to visit would be between October to early March as the weather is warm and dry, which is perfect for hiking.
Check before you go about the “smokey season”. Smokey season generally runs from March to April, where farmers burn their fields and the air is full of smoke. We have heard it's quite unpleasant and visibility drops considerably which is not what you want when exploring mountainous hiking trails. The views just wouldn’t be the same.
April to June sees a climb in temperature and humidity, in the run up to the monsoon season from July onwards.
How Long Should I Stay in Nong Khiaw?
How long is a piece of string? How long you stay in Nong Khiaw depends on how many activities you want to do whilst there. Being only 4 hours away from Luang Prabang, you can get to and from Nong Khiaw easily, so you could come just for a couple of days and do a viewpoint and a kayaking trip.
If you have some more time to spare, you can spend a lot longer here. We spent around a fortnight in Nong Khiaw and there were others around us that stayed even longer. This may be a little long for some, but if you wanted to do all the viewpoints, the caves and a few multi day trips as well as boating to other villages, then you would need over a week.
If you just want to do day activities and your not worried about tiring yourself out you could probably fit a good whack into three or four days (not including coming or going).
Honestly, this was one of our favourite places, and if your lucky with the weather and find a good group of friends, then its worth slowing down and savouring the place!
Accommodation - Where to Stay in Nong Khiaw?
Nong Khiaw has a plethora of accommodation to choose from, stretching along both banks of the Nam Ou river, there are lots of guesthouses, homestay’s, hostels and hotels. Before we came to Nong Khiaw we were slightly concerned about finding accommodation as both booking.com and Agoda were not showing that many choices. This worry was completely unfounded. As soon as we entered the town, there were so many options to choose from. Whatever your budget, there will be something for you.
We spent a long time in Nong Khiaw and there were definitely busy days, and so much so that our guesthouse did turn away some walk-in travellers, but there was never a time where the whole town was booked out.
The garden of Meexai guesthouse
We stayed at the Meexai guesthouse (book your stay here) on the southern side of the river. This no frills guesthouse with a private bathroom and a little terrace outside our room was perfect for us. One night's stay at this guest house cost us 200,000 kip (£9.91 or $11.91).
Breakfast was available to buy from the guesthouse, as well as a selection of soft drinks and beer. The guesthouse can also help to arrange activities in and around Nong Khiaw and also onward travel.
Activities and Attractions - Things to Do in Nong Khiaw
Nong Khiaw is an outdoor lover’s dream. Surrounded by tall, limestone mountains and with the Nam Ou river flowing through the middle, this small town in northern Laos is perfect for anyone who is eager to stretch their legs and enjoy the incredible Laotian landscapes. With hiking, kayaking, cycling and caving all available, Nong Khiaw is an amazing place to get out and about in the fresh air.
The Viewpoints
You’ve probably seen the pictures on Instagram, we certainly posted enough of them, so let’s face it, the viewpoints are probably the reason why you came to Nong Khiaw. The town is encircled by towering peaks, with each one giving a fantastic view over the surrounding countryside. There are four main viewpoints that can be climbed from the town of Nong Khiaw. Each varies in length, height and difficulty. Here is our guide to the viewpoints of Nong Khiaw.
Som Nang Viewpoint - Map Link
This viewpoint is the shortest and easiest of the viewpoints on offer in Nong Khiaw. This is also the most easily accessible viewpoint from the town, with its entrance located near the southern end of the bridge. After purchasing tickets, one ticket costs 20,000 kip (£0.96 or $1.18), the walk starts with a steep hike up a natural staircase cut into the earth. As you walk up you’ll be treated to a sneak peak of what's to come with a small viewpoint and benches looking out over the Nong Khiaw bridge.
As you continue upwards, the halfway point is marked by swings, hammocks and picnic benches. After this, the route winds up the mountainside until it reaches the main viewing platforms. These are easily the best maintained and most developed of Nong Khiaw’s viewpoints (presumably as they are the easiest to get to) and consequently the most popular. A large area is cut into the side of the mountain with multiple platforms and benches. There is a small shop and toilets available.
This viewpoint gives brilliant views over the town of Nong Khiaw and down the river valley. As the trek only takes about half an hour to get to the top, this is a brilliant spot to watch the sun set.
For those feeling brave, there is another path behind the shop that leads to another slightly higher viewing platform. This one is much less maintained and sways a little when you walk on it! But if the platforms below are busy, this one is usually quieter. There are also rocks you can climb onto to the right if you’re feeling like a daring selfie! But please be careful.
Entry cost: 20,000 kip per ticket (£0.96 or $1.18)
Difficulty: An easy uphill walk. Walking sticks are provided at the bottom but not really necessary. The steps are steep in places but as the overall walk is so short this shouldn’t be an issue.
How long does the walk take: 20 to 40 minutes each way depending on your speed and if you go all the way up to the hut.
Tips: Set off about an hour before the sun starts to set as it will get busier and busier. It really is the perfect place to watch the sun set, but this isn’t exactly a secret so it gets quite busy.
Remember to pack a sunset beer, if you’re lucky you can buy one from the shop but the range was more limited/more expensive than the town below!
If you are heading up for sunset, make sure you bring a torch or have your phone charged for light on the way down. It’s an easy hike in the twilight but you will still want to watch your footing.
Nang None Viewpoint Trail, also known as the Sleeping Lady Viewpoint - Map Link
Set a short fifteen minute walk outside of the main town on the northern side of the river, the entrance to the Sleeping Lady viewpoint is located just past the Hive Bar (read more about this bar below).
There is a small ticket booth and a register to sign to access the trail. Tickets were 15,000 kip each (£0.72 or $0.89).
Believe it or not, this is the path!
After the entrance, there is a small stone staircase, before you’re immediately thrown into bouldering mode as you navigate yourself up, over and around large rocks and tree roots. There are ropes to help you up some of these segments, but beware you’re often sharing these ropes with large angry ants.
On the subject of being careful, always check before grabbing a tree on this route as some of the trees are covered in extremely large spikes. There are also other hazards but we will come to those in due course. About a quarter of the way up the trail, the path splits in two, with the right hand fork leading you to viewpoint number one and the left continuing upwards to viewpoint two. We’d recommend heading off right at this point and going to viewpoint one before continuing on to the final, much higher, viewpoint two.
Viewpoint one is fantastic with three wooden platforms set across the rocks and a great view over the town of Nong Khiaw. This is a great place to have a drink of water and catch your breath. However, if you look up, a long way up, you will realise you still have quite a way to go!
Leaving viewpoint one behind you, you’ll come back to the fork in the road and continue on up. The trail climbs very steeply over a long time (around an hour for us) until the trail flattens out, and the trees are replaced by thick stands of bamboo. The way then winds around the mountain, via a small stone path, between rocks, clinging to the cliff edge. Before long, all sides drop away and you’re rewarded with the peak.
There are two platforms to the viewpoint, one is under renovation but still a great place to sit down and catch your breath after a hard climb (this is the one with the roof). The second viewpoint is up a rickety wooden staircase, leading to a small platform and a Laotian flag crowning the summit. The views from this viewpoint make the walk worthwhile! You can see across both sides of the town, over the bend in the river, and the massive peaks that lie beyond. It's a hard climb, but thoroughly worth it!
On a personal note, and remember this is anecdotal so we can’t guarantee that this happens to everyone… Remember to check your walking sticks! We had both picked up fallen bamboo to use as hiking poles. But, unbeknownst to Ellie, her hiking pole was also resident to a certain hairy tarantula. We don’t know at what point our eight legged friend joined us on the trail, or if he had been living there all along but a short way down from the viewpoint he decided to come and say hello. Some flailing and yelling later, and Mr Spider was persuaded to leave Ellie’s person and we learnt a valuable lesson of checking our equipment.
The above was John’s version of events. What really happened was this… as I walked down the steep hill, something big, black and hairy caught my eye. Emerging out of the top of my bamboo pole was not one, but eight thick legs. About the size of my hand in width, this big spider slid down my pole and landed on my left forearm. Unfortunately for him, I am not keen on spiders, especially not big tarantulas and so Mr Spider ended up flying through the air and landed on the step in front of me. After yelling at my wonderful fiancé (who was 15 metres down the steps in front of me and totally oblivious to my struggles), I eventually hopped over Mr Hairy Feet and proceeded to run, Spirited Away style down the steps and away from my new tarantula friend. I may or may not have been screaming at the time!
Tarantulas aside, this is a phenomenal trail. It is a hard climb full of varied terrain but with great pay offs at both viewpoints.
Entry cost: One ticket cost 15,000 kip (£0.72 or $.0.89).
Difficulty: Medium, some small amount of rock scrambling at the start and a lengthy hour and half of steep climbing to the top viewpoint. Totally doable, even if the most exercise you’ve done for the past few months is picking up a bottle of beer!
How long does the walk take: Around an hour and a half to get to the top viewpoint including stopping at the first viewpoint and plenty of breaks for water, photos and snacks! We did the whole trek up and down in just under three hours. This included a lot of time chilling out at the top and a little time recovering from tarantula triggered terror.
After trails and tarantulas we made it down!
Tips: Bring lots of water with you, both viewpoints are worth a visit. If you’re climbing the mountain after it's been very dry, the path is covered in fine dust and grit which can be quite slidey underfoot. Wear proper shoes and pick up a bamboo pole from around the path, just make sure there aren’t any unwanted passengers!
This path would not have been pleasant if it was wet under foot or after rain. Where there are steps it's just cut into the soil of the mountain, and most of the footpath is on rocks or dirt so it would be very treacherous when wet.
Keep an eye on the time as parts of this path would have been a nightmare to come down in the dark.
Nong Khiaw Viewpoint and Trail - Pha Daeng Peak - Map Link
Always stick to the path in Laos!
From the Nong Khiaw Bridge, if you look up to the Som Nang Viewpoint, you may notice far, far above this, is a fluttering Laotian flag. This flag marks the summit of Pha Daeng Peak and the top of the Nong Khiaw Viewpoint and Trail. The entrance to the trail is just past Home Coffee on the south side of the river. Tickets for this trail cost 20,000 kip each (£0.96 or $1.18). The ticket booth is marked with bright blue signage reminding you to stick to the path with the ever present large cluster bomb serving as the ticket counter.
The trail starts up from the town between local houses, before steeply ascending into the hillside jungle. The landscape changes as you ascend, starting out in farmers fields in the beating sunshine, before getting more forested and shady before eventually thinning out into bamboo as you near the summit. There are parts of this climb where you will need to scramble across or through boulders, but there are always ropes and clear markings where to go.
When you reach the summit you are treated to an incredible view over the valley. If you look down (a long way down) you can see the Som Nang viewpoint below. This harder and longer climb is definitely rewarded by the loftier vantage point you get. On a clear day, the views go on for absolute miles, stretching away in both directions of the mountain lined Nam Ou river.
Following the Nam Ou river upstream, the mountains fall away and the river banks are covered in paddy fields.
When we visited, the pavilion at the top was under construction, but there were plenty of places to sit down, take a load off and take in the magnificent surroundings. Also for the more daring, there were an abundance of great selfie spots to clamber on to.
Entry cost: One ticket cost 20,000 kip (£0.96 or $1.18)
Difficulty: Medium. The walk is steep in places, but not overly long or extreme in any way. Along the trail there are benches, swings and places to rest, and in the areas where there is a need to scramble, there are always ropes to help you.
How long does the walk take: The walk took us about an hour and half to climb to the top. This included a lot of stops for photos. The way down was much shorter, taking only about 45 minutes.
Tips: Similar to the other viewpoints, beware of the weather. You wouldn’t want to do this viewpoint after heavy rain.
When at the top, be very careful as the viewpoint platform is still under construction and, as with much of Laos, there are very few safety features e.g. rails etc.
We’ve said it before, and we’ll say it again, bring lots of water!
Pha Noi and Pha Kao Trail and Viewpoint - Map Link
(approximate location of entrance to ticket office as no Google listing)
Okay this is it, this is the big one. The Pha Noi and Pha Kao Trail and Viewpoint was the hardest and longest hike we did in Nong Khiaw. Don’t believe the Google reviews saying they go up there in an hour. As far as we could tell, this would only be possible with rocket powered shoes or by sprinting up a mountain!
The entrance to the trail is off of the right hand side of the main road, on the southern side of the bridge. A large sign shepherds you in, as you head down between the houses. Tickets are brought from an old lady in a small wooden hut, these again cost 20,000 kip per ticket (£0.96 or $1.18).
Once tickets are brought, you head off across a bamboo bridge, through a small farm and into a beautiful forest. The trail starts off deceptively flat, as you follow the path through the woodland. This did not last.
The path quickly becomes steeper with steps cut into the mud or precarious staircases made out of branches and sticks. Not long into the forest you will come to a fork in the road with a sign.
The sign says 200m to Pha Noi Viewpoint to your left, and to the right 2km to the Pha Kao Viewpoint. We can only assume these figures refer to the elevation you needed to gain, as we certainly felt that they were nothing to do with the distance you needed to walk.
We decided to take the shorter route before tackling the longer climb, so we set off to the left. The trail was definitely longer than 200m and wound sharply up through the wooded mountain side. The path snaked up and over ladders, through crevices and around cliff edges before eventually opening out into a spectacular view. From the viewpoint you could see right over Nong Khiaw town, the bend of the Nam Ou river and the surrounding mountains.
There are two platforms at this viewpoint, one has a series of sun loungers (lets spare a thought for those who had to haul these up here) and the other is a rickety, bamboo floored hut that juts out over the cliff edge. The view from here was worth the ticket price alone, but looking backwards and up the mountain, we could see our final destination was a long way off. Photos snapped, it was time to retrace our steps back to the fork in the path and then, the long right hand road to Pha Kao and the top of the mountain.
The right hand path continues through the forest, climbing in a seemingly never ending staircase. The foliage changes as you climb up and up, going from vibrant greens and broad leafed plants in the sun, to darker browns and mushroom clad trees.
The trail continues to climb upwards, underneath the shadow of the massive stone cliffs, with the path switch backing up the mountain. The path was a mixture of loose stone, leaf matter and fine dust. In some places it got extremely slidey, at one point Ellie said we might be able to ski back down!
After many, many false peaks, the trees thinned out and we finally reached the top of the mountain. This last ten minutes was definitely the prettiest so far, with the path carved directly into the very edge of the mountain as it spiralled its way to the peak. The views were amazing. On one side of you, the jagged rocks leading up to the summit, and on the other a sheer drop flowing away into a vista of distant mountains, valleys and the snaking Nam Ou river. We weren’t sure that the peak could get better than this, but boy were we wrong!
After what had seemed like a never ending climb and with shaking legs, we came to the simple bamboo and corrugated iron hut that marked the peak and the end of the Pha Kao Trail.
Directly in front of us was Nong Khiaw town and Nang None mountain, but the scale was unbelievable. The town was tiny from up here. Houses smaller than ants, the bridge like a little twig across the river, and around it spread out in all directions, the mountainous countryside of Laos. It was jaw dropping! This had been the longest hike we had done, but by far had the greatest pay off.
Entry cost: One ticket cost 20,000 kip (£0.96 or $1.18)
Difficulty: Medium to Hard. The trail is long and permanently climbs upwards to over 1000 metres. The path does vary in quality, the route to viewpoint one is very well maintained, whereas the trail to viewpoint two is much more “au natural”.
How long does the walk take: Around half an hour to get to viewpoint one, Pha Noi and then another two hours to get to the top of Pha Kao (viewpoint two). Slightly faster on the way down, but not as quick as you may think as the path is extremely slippery in places and you need to watch your feet.
Tips: Set off early to avoid the worst of the sun, but bear in mind it is between a four to five and half hour round trip and you really don’t want to come down after dark.
Picking up a walking stick is a very good idea. John’s pride stopped him using one at the start, but he quickly realised how much energy they save on long climbs. As we’ve said before a lot of the path is loose grit and gravel and so can be very slippery under foot. There are lots of good fallen branches or old bamboo along the path that can be used as a walking stick.
Pack lots of water and food, we forgot the second part and only had a small bag of fried banana chips to sustain us on our trip.
As with all these treks, beware of the weather and always stick to the footpath.
Which viewpoint is the best to do?
If you’re short on time:
A lot of people will only have a few days in Nong Khiaw, and as such need to cram a lot into a short amount of time.
If you only get the chance to do one viewpoint, we would recommend the Som Nang viewpoint. This is the lowest, shortest and easiest of the viewpoints so could easily be done just before sunset after a full day exploring elsewhere. Seriously, if you're only in Nong Khiaw for one evening, you could easily do this viewpoint.
If time is on your side:
If you’re up for more of a challenge and do have a full day to spare, then definitely do hike the Pha Noi and Pha Kao trail and viewpoint. This climb really did test us, and did take us most of the day to complete, but the view from the top was incredible and as cheesy as it is to say, really did feel as though we were standing on top of the world!
In our view you can’t really go wrong with any of these hikes, all of them were challenging in their own way, and incredibly rewarding. We don’t regret any single one of them, so if you have time, do them all!
Final Tip: As we mentioned above please, please do not go off the marked trails in Laos. Due to the Secret War in the 1970s, there are still millions and millions of unexploded bombs littering the countryside.
Be very careful after heavy rains and always stick to marked paths!
For more information about the repercussions of the bombing campaigns, we would recommend visiting the following Centres in Laos:
COPE Visitor Centre in Vientiene - http://copelaos.org/
The UXO Lao Visitor Centre in Luang Prabang - https://www.uxolao.org/
The Caves
Nong Khiaw is surrounded by limestone mountains, and these provide the perfect environment for the slow formation of caves. Nong Khiaw has three major accessible cave complexes, within walking distance of the town. We checked out all three, and here’s what we found.
Phathok Caves - Map Link
If you leave Nong Khiaw along the southern road and travel for 2.5km you will come across the Phathok Caves. We wandered down on a sunny morning to have a look at the three cave system. The approach is worth the walk here alone. A large bamboo bridge winds out over a stream. You buy your tickets from a stilted house then set out across the bamboo walkway above the paddy fields. The tickets cost 20,000 kip each (£0.96 or $1.18) and you will almost certainly have a group of youths offering to give you a guided tour for a little more (we declined).
Across the rice paddy a roped off area shows the outline of a huge bomb creator, another reminder of the Secret War. The crater is so large that a healthy sized tree is now growing within its bounds. Around this crater, is a steep set of concrete stairs that climb into the rock face. The first cave lies at the top of these stairs. This cave has received some funding for preservation as a relic of the Secret War. Signs show you where the command centres, communication equipment and meeting halls were, or used to be, underneath the cave's high ceiling.
Towards the back of the cave was the shelter which was used during bombing raids, this was frankly terrifying as it was nothing more than a pit so deep you could barely see the bottom. The only access seemingly being by a rope hanging down into the darkness. You can't (thankfully) access this part so we headed back to the cave entrance.
Throughout this article there will be a lot of references to the Secret War. The war ran from around 1959 to 1975, and can alternatively be called the Laotian Civil War. It is referred to as the ‘Secret War’ as during the course of the war, the USA lent its support to the Royalists and conducted the largest bombing campaign in history (by volume). However, due to the ongoing Vietnam War, none of this was made public in the West. This is a very simplified (and possibly ignorant) summary but Google can provide a more in depth look at this fascinating but distressing conflict, the remnants of which still plague Laos today.
The last of the light as you enter the cave!
The second cave is a short walk around the base of the rock formation below the first. This tiny cave is a claustrophobic’s nightmare. There is no lighting so you have to bring a torch and squeeze between the gaps in boulders, seriously do not attempt this cave without good portable lighting. Your phone will be ok…ish, but we would definitely recommend torches. If you did opt for a guide they should provide you with a head torch. This cave was a communication centre and post office during the Secret War, it is much less renovated compared to the first cave and is essentially a tiny set of tunnels, wide enough for one person to squeeze through that wind deep into the mountainside.
The third cave is a little harder to find, you have to continue along the small path on the forested side of the paddy fields. The path twists in and around the bottom of the rock formation with stiles and barbed wire fences to navigate over. The barbed wire does have ‘passing points’ where a bit of bamboo covers the wire but the way can be off putting if you are not sure you're going in the right direction! The third cave is set a good distance further along the path, the caves opening is large and contains a Buddhist shrine in its cavernous opening. Behind the shrine is another set of tunnels opening into larger caves within.
The Phathok Caves were well worth the short walk from town but we have to say we actually preferred the outside scenery to the caves themselves. The green of flooded rice paddies set against the grey of the surrounding mountains, with the farmers planting a fresh crop, was beautiful and provided a strange contrast to the dark caves and their sad history.
Phar Noi History Caves - Map Link
The Phar Noi History Caves are almost inside town itself. Follow the signs from the main road (southern side of the bridge) and go through the construction site or new hostel depending on when you read this! At the far end of the field, there is a small bamboo bridge and hut. This is the ticket booth. Tickets were 20,000 kip each (£0.96 or $1.18), if you’ve got this far in the article, you must have noticed that this seems to be the standard entrance fee for everything. Once over the bridge, you follow the path up the hillside and through a small jungly wood before you reach the first cave.
The first cave features a tall ceiling, draped in stalactites and a circular opening to the sky. At certain times of the day, the sun will line up and cast a perfect beam of light down into the cave. Unfortunately, we had no idea when this would be, so we just enjoyed the cave as it was.
The second cave was a short walk from the first and could easily be missed. Look for a large rock between two trees, and you will see a small opening at the bottom. Crouch down and head through. Just inside is a bamboo ladder leading down into a large cave. Similar to the Phathok Caves you will need a torch in here, do not try an explore here without one!
“My preciousss….”
At the bottom of the ladder and on the left are remnants of war time cookery supplies. On the right, is a massive hole in the cave floor.
If you look directly above the hole, you can see war time graffiti. Including pictures of the American bombers that the cave dwellers were seeking shelter from.
We really enjoyed the history caves. They are set basically within the town, that they’re definitely worth checking out and giving an hour of your time to.
Pha Kuang Cave - Map Link
If you follow the road north out of town, either by foot (30 to 40 minutes) or by scooter (10 minutes) is the Pha Kuang Cave. We can’t give an entirely fair review of this cave as we didn’t explore the cave fully, but more on that later. As you reach the cave, you buy your tickets from the house opposite. This is also where you park your bike if you’re coming by scooter, or where you moor your kayak if you came by river. Tickets cost 10,000 kip each (£0.48 or $0.59).
A short but sharp walk from the road, up into the hillside lies the cave mouth. This cave is enormous, with a cathedral-like roof overhead and light spilling in from an enormous arched opening in the rock. There is a Buddhist shrine immediately as you enter and a collection of war remnants including cookware, bombs and shrapnel down near the arched window. The cave is really impressive and we spent a good twenty minutes inside taking photos, posing and otherwise making fools of ourselves.
Right at the back of this large cave, is a tiny opening in the wall. This marks the start of the cave system that reaches back into the mountain. This is where we have to admit we didn’t explore the cave properly. Here’s our slightly pathetic excuses as to why.
As you walk round Nong Khiaw, especially on the northern road, you may encounter the wandering mud people. These brave souls are marked from head to foot in the mud and fine dust of Pha Kuang Cave.
The cave has squeeze and crawl spaces where the only way forward is by hands and knees or belly, or while attempting to clutch a torch in your mouth. We didn’t fancy this, and chickened out with just our lovely pictures from the cave entrance. For those more hardy than us, there is a map outside the cave displaying the route and squeeze spaces, with the smallest part of the tunnel being only 0.3m heigh!
Kayaking on the Nam Ou River
The Nam Ou river flows through the heart of Nong Khiaw. The town is bifurcated and joined by the river and the bridge across it. Flowing from east to west, the river links the town to many local attractions as well as towns and cities further afield. From Nong Khiaw you can rent a kayak and enjoy the river, paddling to the Pha Kuang Cave, or north upstream to the villages along the river side.
We had a great evening in the kayaks, where we and some new friends enjoyed watching the sun go down, from the centre of the Nam Ou River. Looking west from the Nong Khiaw Bridge, the sun sets directly over the river, so watching the sun down from the kayaks, with a bottle of beer aboard was a memorable way to start an evening!
We rented a kayak, oars and lifejackets (for two people) for 60,000 kip (£2.82 or $3.84) but had to leave a 100,000 kip deposit.
Exploring the Local Villages Surrounding Nong Khiaw
On the southern side of the bridge and striking out north, is a dusty road. This road follows the river upstream and goes through the small villages of Ban Had Sao, Sop Vanh and beyond. To give our legs a break from the mountain hiking, we decided we would explore this route by foot.
As soon as we left the town of Nong Khiaw, you realised what a bubble it was. Nong Khiaw is beautiful and fun, but not the average Laotian town. Walking along this northern road, gave a brief window into the rural mountain lives of the locals. Rice paddies stretched in stepped plateaus on one side, whilst water buffalo wallowed in the mud.
As we reached the first village of Ban Had Sao, children escaped from their lessons and came to say hello. This swiftly became a demand for sweets and money, at which point their teacher dragged them back inside. If you strike inland from Ban Had Sao there is a waterfall that's apparently worth seeing, however as we were visiting in the dry season, we were told the waterfall was pretty much non-existent and so we continued north.
Passing isolated farms, more cheeky children and an elderly gentleman carrying what appeared to be an entire haystack on his back, the road continued on to Sop Vanh. The village of Sop Vanh was very quiet, with a couple of shops and an ornate Buddhist temple. As with all roads in Nong Khiaw region, there’s not really a circular route to do, so we chose the temple as our end point and turned around to head back to Nong Khiaw.
To Sop Vanh and back was around a 12km walk, and it took us 2 ½ to 3 hours to walk. It was a great day out, and it was nice to explore the more human geography of Laos after a few days of viewpoints.
Renting a Scooter
Renting a scooter is easy and cheap in Nong Khiaw. There are many shops on both sides of the river that will lend you a scooter. You will need to leave your passport and agree to a very punitive rental agreement (do not break the bike!). Rentals can be for the whole day, or if you ask nicely for half a day.
We rented from the Three Sisters shop (Map Link - approximate location as no Google Map listing ) for 70,000 kip for half a day rental including two helmets (£3.36 or $4.13). We did have to top up petrol once, but only by 50,000 kip (£2.40 or $2.95).
From Nong Khiaw, if you want to stick on the tarmac roads, you can effectively go one of two directions. We enjoyed exploring both ways. The west takes you up the valley and through increasingly populous towns with the road taking you past some beautiful rice paddies. The eastern route winds through the hills, passing two of the caves (see above), through small villages and to a small waterfall (Map Link) that you can paddle/swim in.
Hiring a scooter was a great way to see a little further afield, and a more rural, non-touristy Laos. As we passed through the villages, children waved (amongst other gestures), whilst dogs, chickens and other livestock provided a constant obstacle course on the road. With the wind in our helmets, and the countryside rolling by, we couldn’t help but think that this was a great way to spend the day!
Tips: Bear in mind there is no real circular route so you will always end up coming back the way you came!
The roads in Laos are not the smooth perfect tarmac of the Swiss Alps, they are full of potholes, charging children and clueless chickens. Be very careful and don’t pretend you’re at the MotoGP.
If you have to get petrol just remember you don’t serve yourself, just pull up, open up your petrol tank and tell the attendant how much money you want to spend on your refill. Alternatively many shops sell bottles of petrol usually in old coke or liquor bottles, again pay what you need and the shop owner will help you fill up.
Secret Sunset Spot - Map Link
If you’re staying at the Meexai Guesthouse this spot is easy to find, simply exit the garden and turn right. If you’re not staying at Meexai, find the road that leads to the Ban Lao Bungalows and follow it all the way down to the river. Here you’ll find a small fire pit and a log bench situated perfectly for sunset. We watched the sun go down from here a couple of times and it's a magical little spot.
Other Things To Do In Nong Khiaw
We spent a lot longer in Nong Khiaw than most other travellers do, but even so, there were still lots of things that we didn’t get to do.
Here’s a brief list of other things you can do in the area:
100 Waterfalls Trip
This is one of the more famous things to do in Nong Khiaw, and there are signs in front of every tour agency advertising this. It looks amazing, but when we were there it was in a dry spell, in the dry season and waterfalls were in short supply!
There are many tour operators up and down the main road of Nong Khiaw
Camping/Overnight Treks
There are lots of opportunities to do multi day treks in the surrounding countryside. These will often include camping, home stays in local villages and more in depth trekking. As part of some of these treks, you can find yourself camping at the top of the viewpoints e.g. Pha Kao. Next time we visit Nong Khiaw, we are definitely going to do this as we can’t think of a more magical place to wake up and see the sunrise!
Muang Ngoy
Another on our list for “definitely” next time is the small town of Muang Ngoy. Set north upstream from Nong Khiaw (there is daily boat service there), this laidback little town boasts phenomenal views and trekking opportunities. There are a few guesthouses and restaurants here as well, and next time we come to Laos, we’ll definitely stay for a day or so as it looks amazing.
Kayaking to Luang Prabang
We were so tempted by this, from Nong Khiaw you can book a three day, two night kayaking adventure that takes you all the way back to Luang Prabang via the Nam Ou River. Staying in home stays or camping depending on the season, you paddle your way downstream taking in the Nam Ou and then the Mekong’s river life. You leave your bags with the tour operator and they will get driven to Luang Prabang for you, the only reason we didn’t do this was that we ran out of time and so had to take the four hour bus rather than the three day kayak!
Food & Drink - Where and What to Eat in Nong Khiaw
For a small town, there are plenty of dining and drinking options available in Nong Khiaw. Here are some of our favourites:
Fish noodles - Map Link
(approximate location as no Google Map listing)
Sometimes great decisions are made out of pure laziness, this was the case with one of our favourite lunch choices. About two minutes to the right of our guesthouse entrance, along the main road on the southern bank of town, is a convenience store with a couple of plastic tables out front and two metal cauldrons of bubbling goodness. We sat, nodded and smiled our way through food ordering. We didn't know what was on offer or what we agreed to get, but as we've found in the past, trusting in the people who live in a place to give you good food is usually a good idea.
We ate at this tiny establishment many times during our stay and each time were given a different bowl of steaming noodles.
The first time we ate here was early in our Nong Khiaw trip and after a fun filled previous night in the bar. Shuffling out of our accommodation, we decided to go to the closest possible noodle shop, to try and get our brains back online. As the bowls came out, and almost in unison, we thought “oh shit… it’s fish”. Now we know that in some countries, fish is regarded as the perfect hangover cure, but for us, this is very rarely the case. We were craving big, possibly beefy bowls of comfort, fish was definitely not what we were craving. Oh but how wrong we were. As soon as we dipped our metal spoons into the broth, we knew we were in for a treat!
Flaked river fish, sat in the most comforting chicken based broth imaginable, swimming alongside lettuce, cabbage and bun noodles. We felt parts of our brain reawaken with every mouthful. As is quite common throughout Laos, our noodles were accompanied by a tray of fresh mint, water spinach, green beans and other crunchy vegetables and fresh herbs, as well as whole chillies for the daring and lime wedges for acidity. Mixing these accompaniments along with a potent chilli oil, led to one of the best hangover cures and possibly best brunch choices we made in the country!
Over the next week or so we dined here repeatedly, each day the choices would be slightly different including delicious khao soi (very different from the Thai dish of the same name), a delicious tomato based broth, topped with minced pork and vegetables. The broth was light and satisfying, with sweet and sour overtones. We affectionately started to call this dish; Laos bolognaise as with the minced meat, tomatoes and noodles, it struck a strangely familiar cord… Have we been away too long?
Another of our favourite bowls from here was the khao piak. This hearty noodle bowl was rich in chickeney flavour and topped with plenty of tasty leg meat, as well as one of the best blood cakes we ate in Laos. If you haven’t tried blood cake, really just give it a go. If you already eat sausages you already eat something far stranger than blood cake, and a good blood cake is meaty, smooth and rich in iron. A great accompaniment for a bowl of noodles.
The shop behind the noodle stall sells drinks as well as sweets and other sundries. On our last time here we witnessed the moves of a pro noodle eater… The lady next to us turned from her seat and grabbed a bag of rice cakes that were hanging from the ceiling of the shop above. These were swiftly snapped into crunchy bits and scattered about her bowl. Looking up we could see a variety of deep fried and crispy things hanging in the shop, any of which would have been a great addition. Next time Nong Khiaw, next time!
Honestly this was our favourite place to eat in Nong Khiaw, and one we would definitely recommend any traveller to check out. As you’ll see in the list below, we ate at lots of lovely places in Nong Khiaw, but there was a homely quality to sitting on these plastic chairs, outside a village shop whilst nannies laughed at us and small children buzzed around. Eating a bowl of noodles here felt like we were in the family living room. On the first day they looked surprised when we sat down, but by the end we felt like part of the family, even if we were the butt of most of the old ladies' jokes!
One bowl of noodles cost 15,000 kip (£0.74 or $0.90).
A soft drink from the shop behind cost 10,000 kip (£0.49 or $0.60).
Namlin Lao Restaurant - Map Link
Namlin restaurant is located a short walk outside of the main town, down the main road on the southern bank of the river. We stopped in here on our way to the Phathok Caves and it was so good we came back twice!
The menus were delivered by the adorable toddler daughter of the owner, who was very proud of her position, smiling and chatting at us in Laotian as she passed us the laminated menus. The restaurant setting was very relaxed, a central covered area of tables was surrounded by private dining pavilions for Laotian families. Each time we visited the tourists present were always outnumbered by the locals.
Namlin offers a small menu of Laotian and south east Asian dishes at a backpacker-friendly price. Fried rice, noodle soups, laab and pad thai are all available. We can definitely recommend their chicken fried rice which came out beautifully smokey, peanutty and filled to the brim with veg from their garden. Also the pad thai was delicious and very different from its Thai origins. Peppery, and floral with Laotian herbs it was much less rich than the Thai version. This pad thai was worth making the short trip to Namlin for alone!
Individual dishes at Namlin were around 25000 Kip (£1.20 or $1.47).
Chennai Restaurant and Halal Food - Map Link
(approximate location as no Google Map listing)
As the sun went down and the temperature dropped, we frequently were drawn into this cosy little restaurant in the evening to warm up with a curry. Chennai restaurant of Nong Khiaw served up all the usual curry favourites from dal makhani to chicken tikka masala, alongside rice, oven baked naan bread, samosas and other Indian restaurant favourites.
We tried a variety of their curries and were always pleased with what we got. Mildly spiced, yet hearty, these cheap, no frill curries really hit the spot, reminding us of England and our local curry houses. Just bear in mind, if it's busy the food may take a while, as all the food is prepared, cooked and served by just one family.
Two curries, two naan breads, one rice, soft drinks and water cost us 140,000 kip (£6.86 or $8.26).
Philasouk Pharmacy Noodles - Map Link
Just across the bridge on the north bank of the river is a little pharmacy, the Philasouk Pharmacy. Spread in front of the pharmacy are a few tables. These tables signal their purpose with a cruet of condiments, it was noodle soup time again. We ordered two bowls of chicken noodle soup and were quickly presented with plastic baskets full of mint, lettuce, green beans and lime, followed by two massive bowls of steaming chicken noodle soup. The noodles were wide, flat rice noodles, submerged in a delicate peppery broth. This next bit is going to sound mean, but honestly it's a compliment - the star of the show was the condiments, specifically the chilli and garlic oil. A half teaspoon of this ruby red oil laden with chilli and deep fried garlic totally changed the bowl of noodles. Fiery spice, smokey and a little sweet it lifted the bowl to a whole new level.
One bowl of noodle soup cost 30,000 kip (£1.47 or $1.77)
Coco Home Bar and Restaurant - Map Link
If you’re in the mood for a more upmarket dining experience (maybe you’re bored of plastic chairs?) then head in town to the northern bank of the river to Coco Home Bar and Restaurant. The restaurant is set with views over the Nam Ou river which makes for a lovely background to any meal. We visited in the evening and enjoyed a creamy red curry with chicken and vegetables, as well as a fresh and zingy laab salad. Laab (also spelt larb) is a traditional Laotian salad (also found in Thailand) made up of minced meat, lemongrass, mint, lime, chilli and other fresh herbs and eaten with sticky rice. The beef laab salad we had in Coco’s was fresh, sharp and delicious and was a perfect contrast to the rich curry.
The food at this restaurant was served in the sharing style, so even if an individual item looks a little more expensive, it will be because the portion size is easily enough for two people.
Our meal of chicken curry, beef laab, sticky rice and two soft drinks cost 149,000 kip (£7.30 or $8.79).
Couleur Cafe - Map Link
We are, after all said and done, Londoners. We’ve been gallivanting off around the world for a big long while at this point, and were sorely missing a nice brunch. Don’t get us wrong, noodles are our favourite, and we’re now fully in the swing of having rice and noodles for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but sometimes you do just crave eggs for breakfast.
Couleur Cafe, located in town on the northern side of the river, was always popular whatever time of day. We ducked in for a late breakfast/early brunch and ordered two shakshukas from the menu.
Shortly afterwards we were presented with enormous hot metal pans, filled with tomato, baked egg, paprika, oregano and chilli. This eggy feast was swiftly joined by crispy baguettes ready to be dipped and loaded in the delicious bright red mix.
Shakshuka is reliably good, but this was excellent. Crunchy baguette, loaded with just set egg and plenty of deliciously spiced tomatoey sauce, this was just what we needed.
Couleur’s menu is extensive and covers a wide range of Western and Laotian dishes. The small dining room is always popular so you may need to wait a little, but judging by our dish, it is definitely worth your time!
A portion of shakshuka and bread costs 45,000 kip (£2.21 or $2.66) and a fruit smoothie cost 20,000 (£0.98 or $1.18)
Pizza and Pasta - Map Link
You can find “Pizza and Pasta” on the southern edge of town, opposite Home Coffee. This French run pizza place prides itself on sourcing authentic cheeses and wines, and other French ingredients. We came here to start a final night out with our friends before we left Nong Khiaw. As it was a special occasion we treated ourselves to something we had truly been craving… a cheese board!
Slithers of sharp hard cheeses, soft melting cheeses, and strong blues were presented on a wooden board, alongside carafes of wine. It was a world away from the delicious Laotian food we had been having, but was a worthy start to a celebratory night!
The restaurant also serves pizza, pasta dishes, burgers and fresh baked goods. If you’re enjoying a morning coffee at Home Coffee, you’ll frequently be able to see the owner making today’s batch of dough.
Our cheese plate cost 160,000 kip (£7.78 or $9.48) this seems like a lot for Nong Khiaw, but given that the cheeses had come from Europe, it’s a pretty good deal!
Home Coffee - Map Link
Lured in by their wooden signs dotted along the high street, we made our way to what claimed to be the best coffee in Nong Khiaw. Run by a charming family (their tiny daughter made for an adorable waitress even if she wasn’t allowed to carry any actual cups), this street side cafe sells the usual array of coffees either hot, cold or frappes style. We enjoyed two excellent hot lattes at 19,000 kip each (£0.94 or $1.11).
There is a limited food menu, with just a couple of breakfast options and some sandwiches. One of the days we ate a chicken sandwich. This was a toasted baguette filled with crispy breaded chicken, coleslaw and cheese and was a lovely little break from the traditional Laotian fare.
Word of warning, the breakfasts here are quite pricey. We ordered two of the set breakfasts and had a toasted baguette with butter and jam and fruit salad and it wound up costing more than our previous dinner. One set breakfast was 50,000 (£2.40 or $2.95). Still not expensive in the grand scheme of things but just worth bearing in mind.
An iced latte costs 25,000 kip and a frappe latte costs 29,000 kip. The breakfast sets start at 50,000.
Where to Have a Drink - Nightlife in Nong Khiaw
Hive Bar - Map Link
Set a short walk (15 minutes) outside of town, just before the entrance to the Sleeping Lady viewpoint is the Happy Bar. You will see signs for it all over town, in the reggae bar colours of yellow, green and red.
The bar itself is decked out in the usual South East Asian reggae decor, of bamboo, makeshift furniture, and trinkets hanging from every wall. To the right of the bar, there is a small terrace, with seats facing out across to the limestone mountains surrounding Nong Khiaw. These seats are great for a sundowner beer.
The Hive bar has great vibes, with a very laid back atmosphere, chilled out music, comfy seats and a very friendly owner. There are no set opening or closing times for the bar, in fact as you come into the bar, you’ll see written on a wall in colourful letters a phone number to call if the owner is not there to serve you a drink!
The bar also does fantastic food. We ate here a couple of times and the portions were generous and the food freshly cooked by the owner's wife. The spring rolls look comparatively expensive on the menu, but are well worth it. A towering plate full of perfectly crisp, deep fried rice paper spring rolls paired excellently with a bottle of cold beer Laos. Also worth mentioning was their fried chicken and ginger which was delicious.
As we mentioned the bar is a short walk from town, but definitely worth a visit.
Jellie beer price index: one large bottle of Beer Laos cost 25,000 (£1.22 or $1.47).
Q Bar and Restaurant - Map Link
Whilst in Nong Khiaw, the Q Bar was our hub, our unofficial home, our meeting place and sometimes our dinner venue. Spread over 3 floors and open to the elements on all sides, this wooden bar on the south side of the river serves cold beer, cocktails and food in a relaxed setting. The third floor is a great vantage point to watch the sun go down, whilst the ground floor has a home made snooker table and communal tables and sofas. We are biassed towards this bar as we made a load of good friends here. We enjoyed many a night of Beer Lao fuelled hilarity in this bar. On busy nights after the bar has closed, bar patrons may even decamp from the bar to a nearby field for a bonfire and bbq!
The Q Bar is everything you could hope for in a backpacker bar, offering a happy hour between 6pm and 8pm: buy one cocktail and get another one for free, a fridge full of cold Beer Laos, a chilled out atmosphere and lots of friendly travellers.
The food at the bar was a mix of Lao and Western in a backpacker friendly budget range. We would highly recommend the Laotian vegetarian hot pot. A charcoal fire is brought to your table with a steaming bowl of broth on top. You can then add mushrooms, vegetables, herbs and noodles and allow them to cook into the broth. When we were there the owner showed us how to poke a small hole into both ends of an egg, blow through and create an egg-drop soup effect! You then take a peanutty sauce, add it to your personal bowl and dole out ladles of steaming veggie goodness. Mix all this together then add chillies/fresh herbs and voila! An amazing bowl of food! We are not vegetarians but we can report that this was really delicious! The vegetarian bbq hotpot for two people cost us 60,000 kip (£2.94 or $3.54).
The bar also served great fried rice, noodles and warm soups to warm you up as the temperatures dropped in the evening.
Jellie beer price index: one large bottle of Beer Laos cost 25,000 (£1.22 or $1.47).
Final Thoughts
At the time of writing this article we have been travelling for over nine months, and Nong Khiaw is without a doubt one of our favourite places we’ve visited so far. The town itself is just small enough to be charming, whilst large enough to have a good variety of food and drink on offer. The surrounding landscape is nothing short of spectacular, and there is so much to do you can’t get bored whilst here. Nong Khiaw also has the advantage of being less well known and slightly out of the way of the normal Southeast Asian backpacking trail. The people that come to Nong Khiaw have chosen to be there, they haven’t blindly followed the ‘Banana Pancake’ trail. The nights in the bar were awesome, with a group of like minded travellers sitting communally chatting over beers and cocktails, playing pool and generally just enjoying life. It wasn't Vang Vieng with its party scene, but it was something else entirely. It was something we feared might not even exist anymore.
Au revoir Nong Khiaw, as this is definitely not good bye forever!
Just Some of Our Snapshots of Nong Khiaw
Thank you for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
*Prices correct at time of visiting - February 2023
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Pakbeng - What To Do If You’ve Missed Your Slow Boat?
The town of Pakbeng marks the midpoint of the world famous Laotian slow boat route. Lying between the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang and the border town of Huay Xai, most travellers only stop here for the night. But what if you stayed longer? What is there to do in Pakbeng? Where is there to stay? What is there to eat? Read our blog for the complete guide to Pakbeng.
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The town of Pakbeng sits at the midpoint of the famous Mekong slow boat river trip. The full river journey runs between the UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang and the Laotian/Thai border town of Huay Xai. Most travellers, and we really mean most, like 99% will arrive in Pakbeng in the early evening and then leave again before 10am the next day. The whole town is set up to deal with this overnight trade, but what if you stayed there a little longer? What if you missed your boat? We decided to slow ourselves down and have a full day in Pakbeng and this is what we got up to.
We had arrived in Pakbeng on board the luxury Shompoo cruises. We knew that the next leg of our journey would be on the normal, less luxurious slow boat but we needed some time to plan our Laotian itinerary. A quick scout of the town showed it had a wealth of cheap accommodation, so we decided to stay a full extra day in Pakbeng to plan our route and explore the town a little bit.
Accommodation in Pakbeng - Where to Stay?
There are dozens of guesthouses in the town. The whole town is set up to deal with the overnight travellers and there are many choices of where to sleep. When travellers get off the boat, there is a flurry of activity on the pier as guesthouses and hoteliers vie for the travellers custom.
The guesthouses of the town are simple and cheap. Usually a double or twin bed and a shared bathroom. As with many places in Laos, the online listings are much more expensive than simply just turning up and asking for the prices. Also worth bearing in mind, is that there are many more accommodation choices in town than appear online. We use Agoda, Booking.com, Expedia and Google to look at accommodation and none of them were showing half of what was on offer in Pakbeng.
Our cheap and cheerful room in Pakbeng!
We walked along the high street and eventually settled on a double fan room (shared bathroom) for 100,000 kip (£4.80 or $6.00) staying at the Thiphaphone Guesthouse. This was the cheapest we saw, but the difference was minor, most rooms were going for between 100,000 and 150,000 kip.
For upmarket choices there are two hotels to choose from: The Sanctuary and Le Grand. These two are much more luxurious than the guesthouses in the village themselves and have swimming pools and restuarants themselves. If you’ve booked ahead at one of these posher places they should arrange a tuk tuk transfer to and from the pier. If you’re planning to stay in the main town, transport is completely unnecessary unless you’ve really overpacked!
We were definitely an oddity walking around the town at mid morning. As we’ve mentioned, all travellers leave with the boats in the early morning, so we were the only travellers in town. All the guest houses were halfway through turning over their rooms, with their washing hanging out the windows to dry. The locals were looking at us with amused expressions which just said “ah, those two must have missed the boat”.
Things to Do in Pakbeng
Pakbeng is not a large town but it does have some interesting things to keep you occupied if you’ve missed your boat, or like us, just decided to slow down.
The Pakbeng Viewpoint
Just inside town, at the top of the pier, is a large sign detailing the sites and surrounding attractions of Pakbeng. Quickly piquing our interest was the ‘Pakbeng Viewpoint’. This didn’t appear on Google Maps, but as is frequently the case, did show on Maps.me. Follow the high street away from the pier, going past all the guesthouses and restaurants and you’ll eventually come to a signpost directing you to turn off the main road to the left.
Follow this dusty road as it winds past wooden houses and climbs a hill, passing the primary school until you reach a helipad. The views from here are great, but you're not at the viewpoint yet! Turn behind you and climb the steep set of stairs to reach the viewpoint itself. Perched on a hill between the main road and the town, the viewpoint looks directly over the Mekong and surrounding hills. The viewpoint is split into two platforms.
The left platform overlooks the Mekong as it flows downstream. The right viewing platform overlooks the town of Pakbeng and the green hills behind. The views are fantastic and well worth the short walk and sharp climb. The viewpoint area itself looks to be/has been in a state of renovation, there is a distinctly unfinished feel to it with lots of construction equipment left lying around. Still you didn’t come to look at the viewpoint, you came to look at the view and the view does not disappoint.
There is no kind of ticket barrier or entry fee, just walk up!
Tip: The route is well signposted from town except for the very final point of the helipad. The road winds on, but don’t take this. Look behind you for the concrete steps and climb up these.
Wat Khokkhormingmoungkhoun
On your way to or from the viewpoint, there is a Buddhist temple that's well worth a look.
Wat Khokkhormingmoungkhoun commands a beautiful view over the river.
As always remember to dress appropriately - unfortunately we were in shorts this day, so could only peer through the ornate Naga guarded gateway.
Pakbeng Museum
We passed by and attempted to visit this museum but unfortunately it appeared to be closed. We can’t tell if this is permanent or whether it just wasn’t our day.
From the notice board it looks as though it is a small museum giving history of the local area and the communities within it.
Mekong Elephant Park
Another thing we didn’t do! Those who know us, know that Ellie is an elephant nut, and as such is rightly very picky about visiting “elephant sanctuaries”. We didn’t have time to properly research this one, so wound up not going. From what we can see it does look legit, housing four rescued elephants with no riding and mostly offering observation tours, but we were unsure as there were some higher cost ‘interaction experiences’. If you know more, let us know in the comments!
Sanctuary Viewpoint
The Sanctuary hotel runs in partnership with the elephant park and is about a ten minute walk away from town up a hill. Its bar and restaurant have incredible views over the Mekong, especially at sunset. If you feel like treating yourself to an expensive beer ($3.50 - you know you’re in trouble when the prices are in dollars) and an amazing view, then this is a great place to do this.
Eating and Drinking in Pakbeng
There is no shortage of evening food options in Pakbeng. From the local Laotian dishes of laab and noodle soups, to the backpacker favourites of fried rice and noodles, there will be something for your palette.
For our lunch we had an enormous, but extremely tasty Pad Krapow, served with a side serving of delicate vegetable soup. For dinner, we went off piste and went to an Indian restaurant recommended by our guesthouse. It was hearty and tasty, but like most places in town the prices are a little high as the restaurants have to capitalise on the one off tourist trade.
For those on a budget, at the bottom of the hill (next to the pier) there are lots of vendors selling all manner of barbecued meats as well as street side sandwiches and pastries. These sandwich vendors will also appear early the next morning for you to stock up before your onward boat journey.
Tip: For those worried about a speedy departure the next day, sandwiches can be preordered at these stalls and picked up the next morning.
In terms of drinking, Google lists two bars in town. Unfortunately, both the Happy Bar and the Hive Bar were closed when we visited. Although it looks now as though the Happy Bar has reopened. The lack of bars seemed crazy as there was definitely a demand for a bar in this backpacker destination. All the restaurants, cafes and shops serve Beer Laos for takeaway or to drink in. The pizza bar on the main strip has a small bar at the front that was busy all night.
Leaving Pakbeng
Pakbeng Pier - Your entrance and exit point by river from the town
The vast majority of travellers, including us, will leave Pakbeng via boat either downstream to Luang Prabang or upstream to the Thailand border town of Huay Xai.
Both boats leave early in the morning, the Luang Prabang boat departs at 9.30am and the Huay Xai bound boat leaves at 8.30am. Tickets are purchased on the day on the boat itself and our advice is to get there early to secure a comfy seat. Tickets cost 150,000 kip (£7.20 or $9.00) to both Luang Prabang or Huay Xai.
For our experiences on two very different slow boats, check out our article here.
Where Else Can I Go From Pakbeng?
The boat isn’t the only way to leave Pakbeng. There are buses to the city of Muang Xai/Oudomxay/Oudomxai (what is it with Laos and having three different names for the same city?!) as well as other local destinations. The bus stop is outside of town so you will need to factor this into your journey time as it's slightly over half an hour's walk away according to Maps.me.
Pakbeng is a necessary stop along the amazing slow boat route on the Mekong river. Its entire business model is designed to capitalise on one night tourism, however if you find yourself here longer, maybe through illness, a mighty hangover or just missing the boat there is plenty to keep you occupied. You could easily just spend an afternoon sitting on the pier watching the Mekong flow by.
Thank you for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
*Prices correct at time of visiting - January 2023
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The Slow Boats of Laos, Budget Versus Bougie
A bucket list item for travellers, the slow boats on the Laotian Mekong run between the UNESCO world heritage city of Luang Prabang and Huay Xai, the border town between Laos and Thailand. We took two very different cruises up the river, the luxury Shompoo Cruise between Luang Prabang and Pakbeng and the local slow boat between Pakbeng and Huay Xai. Read on for our experiences on this incredible stretch of river!
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Taking the slow boat on the Mekong is a bucket list item for many travellers. Between the border town of Huay Xai and the beautiful UNESCO World Heritage City of Luang Prabang, slow boats plough their way up and down the mighty Mekong river.
We had just finished a wonderful week in Luang Prabang. John’s parents had tracked him down and treated us to a fantastic stay in the ancient Royal Capital of Laos. When it was time to leave there was only one choice. We would all get on a slow boat and travel up the Mekong to Pakbeng.
The first leg of the journey, Luang Prabang to Pakbeng, would be done in the lap of luxury as John's parents had the river cruise included in their tour package. After Pakbeng we would be going our separate ways and thus a more backpacker friendly mode would be engaged. Our second boat journey from Pakbeng to Huay Xai would be less salubrious, joining other travellers and locals on a distinctly more budget friendly local boat.
Leg One - Boating in the Lap of Luxury - Luang Prabang to Pakbeng
Day one started with an early morning wake up call in Luang Prabang. A 7am departure saw us up early at the Shompoo Cruise pier ready for our day of luxurious cruising. We would be travelling this leg of the Mekong on a very large and well appointed river boat. Comfy seats, recliners and even some scatter cushions were strewn artfully about the deck, with a bar and toilet to the back of the boat. There were only twelve of us on this massive boat, so we were free to roam and stretch out wherever we pleased. From every angle you could get a different view of the river. The prow of the boat had chairs set up giving spectacular uninterrupted views of the river valley. The bar had stool seating facing out to the sides, and all along the boat were seats and recliners set next to the open windows.
We set off with the early morning mists rising from the river and cloaking Luang Prabang in their mysterious coils. The boat puttered along at a fairly lively pace but was quiet and relaxed for everyone on board allowing us all to savour the surroundings. The boat provided warm blankets against the early morning chill, and breakfast had been picked up from one of the posher coffee shops (T56 cafe and bar) of Luang Prabang. As we drifted along we passed school children cycling, monks crossing the river and farmers tending their crops. Munching on croissants whilst sipping coffee and floating down the Mekong was an unforgettable way to start a day.
The upstream Shompoo Cruise included a stop at the Pak Ou caves. The two visitable caves are accessible from a small jetty on the side of the river. The upper cave are reached by climbing 300 stone steps and houses beautiful Buddha statues as well as a stupa and shrine. The lower cave is a treasure chest filled with every style, shape and design of Buddha you can imagine. Point your torch in any direction and an image of the Buddha will stare back at you. The cave is packed with tiny alcoves filled to the brim with Buddha statues.
The climb to the Pak Ou caves also gives fantastic views of the Mekong river below.
The Pak Ou caves was the only stop on this leg of the cruise, so afterwards we clambered back on board and got comfy for the remaining seven odd hours to Pakbeng.
The boat was very comfy, with John nodding off after being lulled to sleep by the gentle movement of the water. A buffet lunch was provided as well as free tea, coffee and water. There was also a paid bar on board for mid afternoon beverages.
As the river wound on, we took in water buffalo, pristine jungle, peanut fields and lots of interesting snap shots of Laotian river bank life. We pulled into Pakbeng just before 5pm just in time to watch a spectacular sunset over the Mekong river.
For those travelling in luxury Pak Beng has two higher end hotels: The Sanctuary and Le Grand. The above photo was taken at the Sanctuary’s restaurant, the views were amazing! For those on a backpacking budget there are many guesthouses in the town itself offering cheap lodgings for the night.
As we mentioned we were travelling this leg as guests of John’s parents so didn’t have to foot the bill for any of this. We can’t comment on any kind of “value for money” thing here, but only our experiences on the boat. A boat trip with Shompoo Cruises can be booked directly from Luang Prabang or on their website. We have not been paid or otherwise incentivised to promote them.
Leg Two - Back to Backpacking - Boating with the Locals - Pakbeng to Huay Xai
After saying goodbye to John’s parents and staying another night in Pakbeng to sort out our onward itinerary, we boarded the daily slow boat upstream to the border town of Huay Xai.
The boat departs daily from Pakbeng to Huay Xai at 8.30am. You buy your tickets for this journey on the day of travel on the boat. One ticket from Pakbeng to Huay Xai costs 150,000 kip (£7.20 or $9.00). Seating and tickets are first come, first served so get there early to avoid an uncomfortable ride. We rocked up at 8am and were definitely not the first to board. Around 8.10am it started to become extremely busy and we were very glad we had arrived early and claimed our seats. The seats we had today stood in far contrast to the luxury of the first day. Gone were the recliners and scatter cushions, instead there were wooden cushioned benches and what appeared to be seats ripped straight out of a coach and placed on movable wooden blocks.
Tip: Word to the wise, when boarding don’t be tempted by the inward facing rows of coach seats as these can be moved around if more people need to get on. Even if they stay where they are you will constantly need to move your feet around as people go backwards and forwards!
Your bags are stored wherever they will fit. As we got on early, our backpacks were stowed under our wooden bench. Later arrivals had their bags piled at the front and back of the boat with some of them being rearranged mid cruise to help with weight distribution.
The boat sputtered to life and swung away from the pier just after 8.30am. In contrast to the twelve people on board for the first leg, there were at least fifty on board this smaller boat. A mix of backpackers, Laotian families and sales people moving their goods around, the boat was a lively affair. Children ran up and down the aisle, whilst their grandmother sat cross legged and ramrod straight on the seat beside. The banks of the Mekong gently rolling past amidst the chatter of the travellers on board.
Another difference between this and our luxury cruise was apparent within moments of setting off, there were no free blankets. As we waited for the sun to rise above the mountains and burn off the morning mists, it was seriously chilly. This had obviously caught out quite a few of our fellow travellers as we all huddled together with our hoodies up. The more experienced locals were bundled in blankets they had brought from home.
Tip: At the back of the boat next to the shop there is a stack of blankets. These can almost certainly be rented/borrowed but by the time we had noticed them the temperature had risen back to the normal tropical heat.
This stretch of the river seemed more remote than that of the previous day. We passed reed thatched houses in precarious cliffside villages. Many of the houses were raised up further still to protect them from the river below and its monumental floods. Limestone cliffs towered over the riverbanks whilst water buffalo wallowed in the shallows. We passed families collecting and drying reeds for brushes and what looked like panning for gold.
Mid morning saw the group behind us open the first of the beer Lao to salute their journey up the Mekong. Whereas yesterday we had a buffet lunch and a dedicated bar. Today, there was a young Laotian family at the back of the boat who had almost walled themselves in with stacks of water, pot noodles and beer for sale. Behind the makeshift shop there was a toilet on board. We can’t comment on the state of it as we didn’t use it.
The chatter on board the boat was lively and friendly, with a Laotian baby doing the rounds with her mother to say hello to everyone (the baby looked very confused by this). Lunchtime saw a flurry of activity at the helm of the boat. A carpet was laid out and an ornate circular table brought forward from the back of the boat. It was time for the Captain’s lunch. Baskets of sticky rice, dried pork and steamed green vegetables were beautifully laid out on the silver table. We looked on in jealousy as we tucked into our sandwiches.
Tip: The town of Pakbeng is completely set up to cater for the long boat journeys. It is the halfway point for the up and down stream journeys, as well as the lunch spot for the speed boats. Lining either side of the main street are vendors selling portable snacks from sandwiches, pastries and cakes to crisps, biscuits and drinks. Pick up your breakfast and lunch here if you don’t feel like eating pot noodles on the boat!
Occasionally the boat would swing into an ostensibly deserted piece of river bank and a Laotian family would get off. Things did get a little bit more interesting at one point when there was a loud clunk from the engine and we shuddered to a halt in the middle of the river. The driver steered us into the bank, had a heated discussion on a telephone, then went to the back and did something noisy to the engine and we set off again as if nothing had happened!
Tip: We have heard that breakdowns are quite common and can be a lot more time consuming than ours was. Bear this in mind if you’re running out of visa time!
After around seven hours, the river swept around in a large bend and we finally had Thailand to the left of us. The Mekong serves as the border along this stretch of the river. The contrast between the Laotian and Thai sides of the river was instantly evident. The Thai side had much more infrastructure with new roads and what looked like flood defences, whereas the Laotian side was still predominantly jungle and fields. Eventually we passed under the Friendship Bridge and swung into Huay Xai. Our slow boat journey was complete!
Tip: The Friendship Bridge which serves as the border crossing between Thailand and Laos is quite a distance from Huay Xai and the boat landing pier. You will need to factor in at least 45 minutes to get between the two, so keep an eye out on when the border closes for the day. Our boat was coming in at 5.30pm and there were a lot of very worried people on board!
Both days of travel along the Mekong were fantastic. It’s a bucket list item for a reason. It’s a beautiful way to take in what would otherwise be a remote and inaccessible area of Laos. You get to see life played out across the river and its banks. It's not like a museum piece or any of the “craft villages" often added to package tours, it was real life happening just outside the window. We feel you could travel up and down the Mekong multiple times and you wouldn’t see the same journey twice.
This piece is not meant to answer which cruise you should take as they are completely different. If you require comfort, the ability to roam around and countless photo opportunities then the Shompoo Cruise was the definition of luxury and convenience. Whereas if you want to be in amongst it all, having babies passed around, surrounded by the chatter of travellers, and to be frank, save a lot of money, then the local slow boat will suit you perfectly. Either way, you need to do this now. The construction has already begun on several dams along these stretches of river, and it won't be long until this route is impassable and the landscape changed forever.
The Basic Facts of Taking a Slow Boat Up/Down the Mekong River
How Long Does It Take?
There are two options when answering this question. The slow boat takes two days with each day taking 6 to 8 hours depending on the river.
Alternatively, there is a speedboat service that will get you all the way in a day. We have heard this is quite an uncomfortable experience and there are some questions online as to its safety.
How Much Does It Cost?
The local slow boat is 150,000 kip per leg of the journey (300,000 kip in total - £14.15 or $17.70).
From the starting points of Huay Xai or Luang Prabang, you can buy your slow boat tickets at the departure piers, or for an added cost (that may include a transfer to the pier) from a tour operator or your hostel. The tickets from Pakbeng to your destination, are brought on the boat when you board at Pakbeng.
The cost of the more luxurious boats can be found here http://shompoo-cruise.com/en/our-rate/ - bear in mind it is a lot more expensive with prices starting above £135 ($170.00).
Where Do the Slow Boats Depart From?
Both Luang Prabang and Huay Xai have “slow boat” piers.
The slow boat pier in Huay Xai (Map Link) is easily walkable from the strip of accommodation most backpackers will find themselves staying in. Tuk tuks are available if you need a lift or are coming from the border.
In Pakbeng you will be dropped off from the same pier (Map Link) you will leave from in the morning, and the town is immediately in front of you. The luxury accommodation is up the hill to the left, whereas the town, guesthouses, restaurants and cafes lie to the right. If you’re booked into one of the more upmarket hotels, they will usually send transport to pick you up.
In Luang Prabang the slow boat pier (Map Link) is located a little further out of town, past the airport. There are plenty of taxis and tuk tuks available. If you’ve booked the ticket through a travel agent, they may include this transfer in the price, if not find some fellow travellers and split the cost to take one of the larger tuk tuks.
If you have splashed the cash and are travelling with Shompoo Cruises, then the pier is in the centre of Luang Prabang (Map Link).
What to Bring on the Slow Boat?
If you’re taking the local boat, when travelling on the first leg of your journey, make sure you bring any food or drinks that you want. Boats depart early in the morning and don’t stop until they reach Pakbeng in the late afternoon/early evening. On board there is a small shop selling pot noodles, crisps, biscuits, tea, coffee, beer and soft drinks.
When you stop at Pakbeng you can pick up sandwiches and other supplies ready for your second leg. If you’re on an especially busy boat, we would recommend pre-ordering your sandwiches when you arrive so you can just pick them up and go the next day. There are dozens of vendors all along the street in Pakbeng who can do this.
As we’ve mentioned on Shompoo Cruises, both breakfast and lunch were included and there was a paid bar available on board.
You set off early on both days, so wear a warm layer to snuggle into. The local boat we took did have blankets to rent. Blankets were provided on the Shompoo Cruise.
Are There Toilets Available?
Yes on both boats. Although we can’t comment on the quality of the local boat as luckily we didn’t need it. Shompoo Cruises were very nice!
Final Tips for the Local Slow Boat
Get there early as its first come, first served with seats.
The Huay Xai to Luang Prabang route is meant to get really busy, to the point where some travellers we have met regretted taking it. The boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai however, is perfect. Busy enough to still have an atmosphere but not overcrowded.
If you buy from a travel agent they will add their costs.
We would not recommend using the slow boat to Huay Xai on the last days of your visa. The boat will dock at Huay Xai very close to the time when the border closes for the day, and it's a 45 minute drive from the pier to the border (also breakdowns are quite common)!
Download some chilled out tunes and watch the river flow by. It really is an amazing experience!
Snapshots of Life Along the Mekong
Thank you for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
*Prices correct at time of visiting - January 2023
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