The Spiti Valley - Everything You Need To Know Before You Go
India’s Spiti Valley is a remote and beautiful high altitude desert. Although growing in popularity, this remote region is currently an amazing off the beaten path destination. Read our guide for all the essentials and best tips and tricks for the best possible time in this far flung Himalayan corner of northern India.
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What is the Spiti Valley?
The Spiti Valley is an area of incredible beauty in northern India. A high altitude Himalayan desert, ringed by towering snow capped mountains full of tiny colourful villages, amazing monasteries and outstanding natural beauty. It is an area of India that feels nearly untouched by the passage of time. This may change in the future, but is also currently an area of India that has not succumbed to the mass over tourism that plagues other popular tourist destinations.
Read our complete guide to getting the most out of your time in this incredible region!
Contents:
Where to go and what to do in the Spiti Valley?
There is too much to recommend in the Spiti valley and the surrounding areas. We would suggest checking out our 7 day adventure here for inspiration on where to go and what to do.
Highlights include:
The green alpine wonderland of Chitkul with the cleanest air in India!
Nako and its Moonlake and high passes
The ancient Tabo Monastery and caves
The market town of Kaza and from here the highest Post Office in Hikkim, the highest motorable village of Komic and the colourful Buddha statue of Langzha
The stunning Kee Monastery
The green valley slopes of Chitkul are stunning!
Where is the Spiti Valley?
The Spiti Valley is located in the far north of India, in the state of Himachal Pradesh. Bordering Tibet, this remote region is accessible via mountain passes from Shimla and, weather and season dependent, the town of Manali.
How to get to the Spiti Valley?
Organised tour of the Spiti Valley
The easiest and most efficient way to see the sights of Spiti and the surrounding area is with an organised tour. Usually starting in Shimla these tours can follow a variety of itineraries either with a minivan, private driver or motorbike group. We took the excellent Zostel Spiti Valley Experience tour and you can read about our adventure here.
Hiring a driver
For a price you can hire a driver to take you around the Spiti Valley, this seemed a popular option whilst we were there. The drivers seemed to stay in the cars overnight (we cannot imagine how cold it was in some of the places) and drive their passengers around during the day. This would be a good option if you have the cash and a specific itinerary in mind.
Driving yourself
Only for the very confident. The Spiti Valley is a bucket list item for many motorcyclists. You can drive yourself around the Spiti Valley region, either by car or by motorbike. Just be aware that the roads are very varied in quality with large portions of the valleys being dirt and loose stone roads. That said we were very jealous of the freedom, bravery and experiences had by the many intrepid Royal Enfield drivers we encountered.
There are two main routes into the Spiti Valley:
Via Manali - north of Manali you can take the Rohtang Pass into the Spiti Valley. Be aware that this pass will be closed during the winter months usually between October and April, and will remain closed in extreme weather.
Via Shimla - take National Highway number 5 towards Reckong Peo. Continue on this road until you pass the Dabling Bridge. When NH 5 forks to the right, stay left and continue on National Highway 505 to loop round the valley towards Nako Village and the rest of the valley.
On both routes, the roads may become single track and will sometimes not be paved. The roads are extremely windy and switch back up and down steep mountainsides. Also be aware that landslides are common and can cause severe delays to journeys within the valley.
HRTC - local buses within the Spiti Valley
HRTC buses (Himachal Road Transport Company) ply their way between the major towns and villages of the Spiti and Kinnaur regions.
The main hub before Spiti, for those starting in Shimla, is Reckong Peo. Buses leave early in the morning from Shimla bus station and will arrive in Reckong Peo in the evening. You will then need to take another bus the next morning onwards to the valley hub of Kaza.
For those starting in Manali, there is a daily HRTC bus departing early in the morning from Manali bus station, via the Rohtang Pass. This bus will get you to Kaza by the evening.
Taking a local bus is by far the cheapest way to get around, but the least flexible. The buses have a schedule but the times can vary wildly due to road and weather conditions.
The buses are infrequent and take a long time to get between the towns but would be a great way to see the valley for less. There is even a bus from the city Chandigarh to Chitkul that runs once a day!
We’d recommend heading to the bus stand asking well in advance the planned times of the buses many of the buses will require you to have booked a ticket in advance as they sell out quickly.
Our trusty Zostel minivan
Whichever method of transport you pick, remember that you will need a permit to enter the Spiti Valley (see below for more details).
When should you visit the Spiti Valley?
The Spiti Valley is stunning at all times of the year.
In winter it is especially beautiful and covered in a thick blanket of snow. If you visit in winter, be prepared for difficult transport conditions as the roads are frequently closed and the only way to enter the valley is via the Shimla route. The valley can be cut off from the outside world due to the weather for long stretches of time, and it may not be possible to visit everywhere you want to go. Still for the brave, it would be an incredible experience!
Spring and summer (April/May onwards) are a great time to visit the area (although the weather high in the mountains still cannot be relied on). Both the Shimla and Manali passes should be open and green life starts to return to the lower valley slopes.
We visited the valley in May. When we visited the pass at Manali was still closed but this was very unusual as there is usually no snow this late in the year.
Required permits - how to get an ‘Inner Line Permit’ for the Spiti Valley
You will need a permit to visit the Spiti Valley. For non-Indian nationals, you will need to obtain an “Inner Line Permit”. We got these on the day from Reckong Peo through an expedited service that cost 500 rupees (just under £5.00 or $6.00) each. This took about 45 minutes and involved a trip to a tour provider, a couple of forms and a photograph. You will need to provide your passport. If you do not use the expedited services, expect the process to be a lot more chaotic and much much longer, the permit office was very busy!
When you have your permit you will need to keep it with you at all times as it can be demanded by any official. We had to produce it a few times whilst crossing into the Spiti Region.
Accommodation within the Spiti Valley
For those not on an organised tour there are plenty of places to stay in all the major villages and towns in both the Spiti and Kinnaur regions. Accommodation ranges from campsites through to hostels and guesthouses. The remoteness of the region means there are less traditionally high end places. The majority of accommodation will also offer food.
We stayed in Zostel hostels, homestays and dorms for the majority of the trip and found them to be extremely cosy and comfortable.
Please be aware that in the busier summer months the accommodation will fill up so book in advance to prevent having to village hop to find a bed!
The best place to base yourself for all the attractions is the main market town of Kaza. This will allow you a good starting point and will have the most transport options.
Check out the map below for all the accommodation choices available in Kaza.
This photo was taken from the roof of Zostel Kaza!
Where to eat and drink within the Spiti Valley
There is no shortage of dhabas, cafes and restaurants serving the towns and villages of the Spiti and Kinnaur Valleys. We can definitely recommend the Piti Cafe and Sol Cafe in Kaza and found our Zostel food to be uniformly delicious.
A cup of seabuckthorn tea!
Given its location close to the Tibetan border you can find many traditional Tibetan meals. Definitely make sure you try the Thukpa (noodle soup), Momo’s (fried or steamed dumplings) and Thenthuk (noodles in a thickened sauce).
Another regional speciality is the seabuckthorn tea / juice, famed for being the regional superfood and again is well worth a try!
The restaurants and dhabas tend to offer similar fare to each other, but we found the food of the region to be hearty, cheap and delicious. If you need specific food items / dietary requirements, make sure to stock up before coming to the valley as there may not be the choice you need in this remote region.
For those looking for beer, wine or spirits, this was a little harder to spot but several restaurants will serve you and all the larger villages will have some form of bottle shop. If you have a local contact, you can also sometimes source some “local” wine.
ATMS, pharmacies and other amenities
ATMs
Atms are rare in this region, and those that are there, may be limited to certain banks or cards. Most shops, guesthouses and restaurants are cash only so you will need to stock up on cash before you go and if possible, have access to more than one bank provider (Mastercard/Visa etc).
Phamacies
Pharmacies are more common than ATMs but outside of the main towns may not carry what you need. Again if you have specific needs make sure you are fully prepared and do not rely on the local pharmacy. We would recommend carrying a basic first aid kit with you in any case.
For everything else, you are best off bringing what you think you may need. The main towns have shops and general stores selling clothes, warm socks, basic toiletries etc but choice will be very limited.
For the ladies, sanitary products are available to buy within the valley in local shops/pharmacies but again the choice is limited. During the whole trip we only saw sanitary pads on sale (no tampons).
Mobile and data coverage in the Spiti Valley
For your mobile and internet needs, remember you're in a remote, mountainous region. Depending on your network Tik-Tok may not be an option! We had a sim card with Airtel and were frequently without any network coverage. Jio seemed to be better connected in the mountains.
Wifi was available in most of the accommodation and cafe stops but varied wildly in speed and usefulness. Definitely download offline Google maps, Maps.me and Google translate libraries before heading to the hills! As well as downloading any Netflix/Prime you may want to watch.
We experienced regular power cuts so make sure to bring a power bank.
The Spiti Valley really is quite remote!
Potential dangers in the Spiti Valley
Extreme weather
The Spiti Valley as we have said before and experienced is very remote and prone to being cut off at short notice by extreme weather and landslides. Keep an eye on the forecast and be sensible.
The nights get very cold and the weather in the mountains can change in an instant. It is not uncommon to have sun, snow, wind and rain all in the space of two hours.
Pack warm comfy clothes and good shoes. We visited in May and were lucky with the weather but very thankful for our thermal layers in the evenings.
If you are unsure about the weather, ask a reputable tour guide. Always err on the side of caution. Only a few weeks after our adventure in the Spiti Valley had ended, the military had to rescue a large group from the Spiti Valley after unseasonable snow left them stranded.
Landslides
As with the above, heavy rain or snow can lead to landslides. These will frequently cut off areas until they are cleared. Sometimes this clearing takes a few hours, sometimes it can take days! Make sure to pack for your journeys accordingly. If you are self driving, be sensible and listen to locals.
Altitude sickness
This region is frequently (if not constantly) above 3000 metres and altitude sickness can occur at any time. Altitude sickness is not prevented by fitness and can strike anyone. Diamox can help but it can also just mask the symptoms. Do your research, know your body and seek medical aid if anything is not right!
Emergency contact numbers
Hopefully you’ll never need these, but these are the Indian emergency service contact numbers:
National Emergency Number - 112
Police - 100
Fire Service - 101
Ambulance Service - 102
Despite the above doom and gloom, it is so worth the effort to visit this region, we have never seen anything like the beauty we experienced here. As long as you are sensible and listen to the locals and any warnings they have, you will have a unique and fantastic experience in this amazing region.
Check out our full Spiti Valley Diaries to see what we got up to in a week in the Kinnaur and Spiti Valley and if you have any other questions, contact us here or leave a comment below.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day Seven & Eight - The Final Days in the Incredible Spiti Valley
As our Spiti Valley adventure draws to a close, follow us as we leave the town of Kaza and go to visit a mummified monk in the mountain monastery of Gue. From here we retrace our steps back through the Spiti and Kinnaur Valleys to where it all began in the hill station of Shimla.
We got up from our cosy hostel beds for the final couple of days of our Spiti Valley adventure.
Here’s the cute little culprit!
Our nights sleep had been interrupted by an insanely cute husky, who, throughout the night wished to share with us the song of his people.
We rose for breakfast in the crystal clear air of the Himalayas. Chowing on another yummy paratha, we prepared to bid a fond farewell to our Zostel and the beautiful town of Kaza.
The next two days were to be the end of our trip. The trip was originally scheduled to loop around the Spiti Valley, past the Chandigarh Lake, through a high mountain pass and end in the town of Manali. Due to the unprecedented weather and some very late snowfall, the pass was still closed so we would have to spin round and head back to Shimla. The next two days would be full of long drives through stunning landscapes as we wound down through the mountains, out through the Spiti and Kinnaur Valleys and back up to the old hill station capital of Shimla.
Bags packed, and settled into our minivan we set off. Our first leg of the journey was a little different as we were off to see a mummy. We were a little far from Egypt so this was not an embalmed wrapped pharaoh, but rather a miraculous well preserved monk.
Up a very narrow road, and through the small hamlet of Gue, we found ourselves at a half constructed monastery with views down across the village and valley.
Behind the monastery in a nondescript concrete building, the monk Sangha Tenzin sits in cross legged meditation. By the best estimates, this monk has sat in his meditative pose for over 500 years.
Discovered after an earthquake in 1975 (the same quake that nearly totalled the Kee Monastery), Sangha still has his teeth, hair and is overall in a frankly unbelievably well preserved state.
After admiring the incredible monk and taking in the amazing views from the neighbouring half finished temple.
We re-boarded our van and slowly made our way back out of Gue.
Rejoining the main Spiti Road (main being a relative term as this was no M25), we made our way back down the Spiti Valley, our bus switch backing up and down the valley slopes. In only a few days, the landscape had completely changed.
We were driving back the way we had come, but a bloom of green had overtaken the previously barren brown lower slopes. The late spring had finally arrived. As we wound back through familiar towns, the apple blossom was in full bloom whilst farmers were busy tending their fields.
We stopped in Nako for a late lunch of thali before continuing on back to the Kinnaur Valley. We arrived back in Reckong Peo where just a few days earlier we had stopped to pick up our Spiti Valley permits. From Reckong Peo we climbed upwards to Kalpa, our final overnight stop. The landscape had completely changed again since our lunch in Nabo. Instead of a desert in the throes of a spring bloom we were now surrounded by tall, mature pine trees. It was like we had been transported to the American Rockies. We stopped at a bend in the road which served as a viewpoint over the Kinnaur Valley and took in the near vertical drop and incredible views.
Afterwards we checked into our final accommodation and had a hearty dinner with the group before collapsing into bed. The next day was going to be a long drive. We were up with the sun the next morning and after admiring the beautiful view from our window and filling up on a quick breakfast, we piled back into the bus. Today was a 12 hour drive, back through the beautiful Kinnaur Valley and all the way back to Shimla.
In the late evening, we arrived back in the same bus station that we had started from nearly a week ago. Our Spiti Valley adventure was now complete! The whole experience had been incredible. The valleys and landscapes had been breathtaking, the food delicious, the accommodation cosy and the company we had, fantastic. Our hearts full and memories stuffed with incredible new experiences, we bid farewell to our new friends.
We have never been anywhere like the Spiti Valley. As we said at the start of this adventure we don’t normally do tours, but we were so glad we did this one. We would never have got to see what we saw, meet who we met or do what we did during this week without the Zostel experience. The Spiti Valley was remote, breathtaking and like nothing else we had ever seen. There are certain places that you know you will remember forever and the Himalayan mountains of Himachal Pradesh’s Spiti Valley is definitely one of them. A truly unforgettable experience!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day Six - The Fantastical Kee Monastery
Follow us on our continuing adventure through the beautiful and remote Spiti Valley. We make our way up to the jaw dropping Kee Monastery before moving onto the “World’s Highest Suspension Bridge” in Chicham and finish the day overlooking the town of Kaza from its beautiful golden Buddha statue.
The sun rose on day six of our Spiti Valley adventure with another beautiful day in the market town of Kaza. It was going to be a special day, as we were going to visit the Kee Monastery. The Kee Monastery had been plastered on every postcard, poster and tour agency since we had entered the valley, so the hype was real! Filling up on egg and onion parathas in the Himalayan sunshine outside our Zostel, we boarded our minivan and headed off through the winding mountain roads.
As we drove up the valley, the Kee Monastery came into view. Rising like a spike, with buildings clinging to all sides of a rock spire, the Kee Monastery looked like something from fantasy. If you had told us that JRR Tolkien had visited the Spiti Valley, we would believe it in a heartbeat. The Kee Monastery rose out of and dominated the valley below, it was like Minas Tirith was standing in the the plains of Gondor. We wouldn’t have been surprised if Aragorn hadn’t rode out to meet us!
It is an incredible structure, a beautiful white and red spire of colour in another wise bleak and barren landscape. Surrounded on all sides by the ever present Himalayan mountains, the Kee Monastery looks like the seed of a mountain just waiting to grow.
We approached from the valley floor, and drove up to the monastery gates. In order to get a better view of this incredible place, we decided to take a short hike up to a colourful shrine that overlooked the monastery. Surrounded on all sides by prayer wheels and left offerings of fruit and water, the three golden Buddhist statues gaze out across the valley and the monastery. The view from here was fantastic, but we could see a trail that led further up the mountainside. Surely, we reasoned, the view from there would be even better!
Heading up the loose stone pathway, we did begin to question the wisdom of our choices. The Kee Monastery itself sits at 4166 metres above sea level and we were now hiking further and further above it. Our guide remained at the bottom and one by one, our expedition group was getting smaller as people ran out of breath. We continued on, breathless and light headed, until we reached the viewpoint. It was phenomenal!
The valley stretched out from left to right, bordered on both sides with the towering white peaks of snow capped Himalayan mountains. The enormous river bed wound down the centre of the valley, the river itself a tiny ribbon of blue amongst the grey and rocks. Above this on the flat valley plain, new fields were being prepped with a wash of green fields replacing the dark browns of the valley. But above all of this, dominating the view and catching the eye, was the Kee Monastery.
Now far below us, the monastery was dwarfed by its surroundings, but still drew the eye as its red, golden and white buildings sparkled against the muted colours of the valley. A pop of colour in this beautiful yet barren landscape. After catching our breath and taking many photos, us and our two brave companions just sat down to drink it all in. Eagles wheeled through the sky below us, but up here, there was nothing but silence, save for the occasional sigh of the wind. It was one of those times, in one of those places where it's almost dreamlike. You just stop, stare and try to convince yourself that you are actually there!
It turns out it is a lot easier to go up this mountain than come back down. The loose stone created a near ski slope style descent. With only a few minor tumbles we rejoined our group at the shrine and headed into the monastery itself.
Following a gaggle of burgundy robed monks we entered through the gates.
The Kee Monastery has a long and turbulent history.
Built somewhere around 1008 CE the monastery has been destroyed by Mongol armies, ravaged by several Khans, damaged by a Sikh army, burned by fire in the 1840s and nearly flattened by an earthquake in 1975.
This frequent impromptu demolition and rebuilding is why the monastery buildings seem to bud outwards with seemingly no rhyme or reason.
Compared with the tranquillity of the viewpoint, the monastery was a hub of activity.
Chanting filled the halls, whilst monks, tourists and an Amazon Prime film crew bustled through the tight corridors and steep staircases. We passed beautiful wooden carvings, colourful paintings and wound our way up through intricately inlaid rooms before emerging back into the daylight at the top of the monastery. From the roof of the monastery, we had a perfect view up and down the valley. Below us, we could see monks of all ages, sitting in their classes, chanting, debating and meditating. Back in the van we left the beautiful Kee Monastery behind and headed deeper into the valley.
The road left the valley floor and started winding itself deeper and deeper into the Himalayan mountains. Deep in the heart of the Spiti Valley, we found ourselves standing at a yellow suspension bridge. The Chicham Bridge is (controversially) the “highest suspension bridge” in the world. At an elevation of 4144 metres above sea level, this bridge spans a deep, rock gorge. Before its construction in 2017, locals either had to travel 3 to 4 hours out their way, or make a frankly terrifying crossing in what can only be described as a basket attached to a zip line! Today, the bridge is a popular selfie spot and is colourfully decked out in prayer flags and surrounded by food trucks. We stopped for photos, momos and a cup of sea buckthorn tea before moving on.
Before heading back to Kaza, our tour leader Gyalli wanted to show us the village he grew up in. A short drive past the Chicham Bridge, and unbelievably higher still, we stopped at an incredible crossroads. With Gyalli’s small village behind us, mountains and valleys spread out in a cross all around us.
The wind was incredible, whipping into your face like icy paper cuts, whilst in any direction the landscape just dropped away thousands of feet down to the valley below. If you asked a child to draw a mountain valley, this would be it. A near perfect V of mountains, dropping down to a winding river below. Like so much of the Spiti Valley it was an incredibly bleak landscape, a high altitude desert with very little plant life or colour, but again, like so much of the Spiti Valley, it was utterly beautiful.
We were so high up now that snow lined the road. This was very exciting to several of our group as snow is very uncommon in Delhi and Mumbai. A quick snowball fight and lots of photos later it was time to descend back down to Kaza.
We arrived back in Kaza in time for a late lunch in one of Kaza’s cosy cafes (Cafe Piti). The rest of the afternoon was free, so we decided to take a climb up to the prayer flags and Buddha that stood on the hill overlooking Kaza.
Starting in the colourful monastery below, we headed up uneven concrete steps, past a school of very young monks before clambering up to the prayer flags.
The view from here was amazing. The statue of the Buddha, being in the place of honour overlooking the town and valley.
From up here you could see all of the life of Kaza. Monks were washing their robes, whilst farmers toiled near the river below. Off to our right, a dust devil was spinning its way down the valley, whilst to the left a dust plume and rumble of engines signalled the arrival of a gang of Royal Enfields.
Heading back to town, we hunted through the shops and bought ourselves a cute Spiti Valley keyring to commemorate our time in Kaza. Outside the shops we encountered our friend Dilpa, she had been following us every time we had come into town, but today had plucked up her ten year old courage to have a chat. We learnt from her that she lived in Kaza and went to school just outside the town. We also learnt that she has fantastic English speaking skills and was utterly adorable!
The rest of the day was spent packing our bags for the next day and chilling in the cosy Zostel common room with the rest of our group. A couple of sneaky beers later and another delicious dinner it was time to turn in for our final night in the incredible town of Kaza!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day Five - The Roof of the World!
Join us for day five of our Spiti Valley Adventure in a day full of the “world’s highest’s” we visit the Langza Buddha, Komic - the highest motorable village in the world and send postcards from the world’s highest Post Office at Hikkim before returning to the market town of Kaza for an amazing night star gazing.
Day five of our Spiti Valley adventure found us waking up swaddled in blankets in the market town of Kaza (3800m above sea level). It had dropped below freezing in the night and we had been glad of our layers of warm blankets. The low temperature now meant that the peaks surrounding the mountain town of Kaza, had been dusted with a fresh coating of snow!
After munching on a breakfast of egg and onion parathas we headed out for the days exploring. Our trusty minivan trundled off down the valley and headed up the mountain towards the Langza Buddha.
The Langza Buddha is a massive statue of the seated Buddha. Colourfully painted and sitting proudly atop 4420 metre high mountain. Disembarking from the bus, we followed a stream of people towards the statue. The vibrant colours of the statue contrasted against the browns, greys and whites of the surrounding scenery. It was like a beacon of colour lighting up the valley all around. It was a stunning location. 360 degree views across the whole valley and mountain ranges beyond, with jagged snow capped peaks ringing the horizon.
A few thousand photos later and we set off again, this time towards the highest village in the world!
Komic claims the title of the “highest village in the world”. At an elevation of 4587m above sea level, iIt is hard to imagine living any higher. It feels like the roof of the world and even a short climb leaves you light-headed and out of breath.
The monastery at Komic was another beautiful example of Tibetan Buddhist architecture and art. Calm, tranquil and cosy on the inside, the monastery held an amazing library of scrolls as well as stunning colourful wall paintings. As we explored through the narrow corridors and staircases, a trance-like beat permeated the walls, as a monk sat drumming and chanting in a small jewel box of a room, it was otherworldly.
Outside we enjoyed lemon and ginger tea at the self proclaimed “highest restaurant in the world” whilst watching an extremely cute gaggle of donkeys (definitely not the correct collective term) wander across the mountainous backdrop. It was one of those moments you get when travelling, where you almost have mental whiplash. We may have just been drinking a cup of tea, but we were drinking a cup of tea at the world's highest restaurant surrounded by the Himalayas. It was a pretty special cup of tea.
After Komic it was time for another “world’s highest” . This time it was the world's highest Post Office in the tiny hamlet of Hikkim (4400 metres above sea level)! Obviously we had to make use of the facilities, so we brought a stack of postcards and sent them off. The old man in the post office has apparently been doing this for over forty years and used to have to walk for miles back down the mountain with the mail sack each day!
We were not too sure if our letters would reach their destination as, after being plastered in many, many stamps they were posted into what really did look like a bin. Our confidence was not helped by our Indian companions assuring us that no one ever got the letters sent from here, although, that didn’t stop them from trying as well!
We are very happy to report that, as of the time of writing, all except one of our postcards has been delivered, taking just under two weeks to reach the UK.
We are hoping the last one shows up eventually!
It was shockingly inexpensive for both the postcards and stamps at the “world's highest post office in the world”. We, being cynical brits, expected much more exploitative pricing than we got. The postage to the UK cost 30p and the postcards themselves were inexpensive (30p) but if you want a larger selection pick them up in Kaza or another town as there were limited designs available.
Postcards posted we jumped back in the van and headed back for Kaza. Langza, Komic and Hikkim form a loop that begins and ends in Kaza.
Back in town, we and some friends headed back to the Himalayan Cafe for some much needed lunch. For lunch we decided on thenthuk. The best way to describe thenthuk is thukpa’s chunky brother. A thickened broth filled with garlic and hand pulled noodles and topped with vegetables and either chicken or mutton. After our warming bowls had been devoured the cafe owner successfully tempted us into a slice of banoffee pie. We are not sure how authentically Himalayan bananas are, but it was delicious!
After lunch we spent a lazy afternoon around town, shopping for trinkets and Spiti Valley souvenirs. We returned to our Zostel hostel and had an explore of the fields behind that led down to the river bank. The fields were being turned over ready for planting and the afternoon air was buzzing with insects and the sound of water. We were joined on our walk by a lovely excitable puppy we decided to call biscuit. Biscuit led the way all through the maze of fields and irrigation channels to the point where the fields fell away and the rocks of the river bed began. The view down the valley was amazing, the wide flat bed of the river contrasting with the razor edge angles of the mountains around.
Back at the Zostel we enjoyed another delicious dinner before heading to the roof for some star gazing. The Spiti Valley has some of the clearest skies in all of India and, even next to a town like Kaza, the light pollution is very minimal. This all means that we enjoyed some truly amazing star scapes. The shadows of the surrounding mountains silhouetted against the speckled carpet of the Milky Way.
It was an incredible end to another amazing day!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day Four - Monasteries, Momos and Mountains
Follow us on day four of our Spiti Valley Diaries where we take in the ancient sites of Tabo including caves, temples and the oldest monastery in the Indian Himalayas. Before departing on a stunning journey into the mountains passing rope bridges, raging rivers and jaw dropping scenery. We stop at the high altitude village of Dhankar to explore its ancient monastery before heading on to the charming market town of Kaza.
On the fourth day of our adventures through the Spiti valley we woke early. We had the morning free and wanted to make the most of our time in the small town of Tabo. We headed out of our cosy home stay and ventured out for a walk through the surrounding fields.
Water rushed in small channels alongside the little paddy fields whilst blue and white irises bloomed all around. A stupa rose up in between fields, its white exterior contrasting to the green all around. Down by the river, in the centre of the valley, the wind whipped and roared as the ferocious waters pounded by below.
Above the town, on the mountain slopes, sat a collection of caves, shrines and small structures. Intrigued, we decided to head on up and have a look. A short, sharp climb later and we were forcibly reminded that we were at very high altitude (Tabo lies at 3280 metres above sea level).
Out of breath and, briefly, seeing stars we made it to the caves. Some of the caves were monastic, having been used as meditation retreats by monks from the monastery in the town below. The larger caves had evidence of more permanent habitation, with smoke from cooking fires scorched into the rocks. There was also a large mud house sitting on the slopes with views out across the valley and the town below.
One of the mud dwellings had its own doggie denizen!
The view was easily the most impressive thing about the hillside caves, below the valley spread out vast and barren. The wide, flat river bed sandwiched between impossibly tall mountains. Whereas Chitkul had been green and meadow flecked, Tabo was orange and brown, with sparse scrubs breaking up the slopes. Further down the apple trees reemerged, surrounding the town of Tabo.
The colourful town sits focussed around the ancient temple and monastery, with the houses and streets clustered around. In the distance we could see the helipad was being used as a cricket field by the local children.
Heading back down the hill we rejoined our group at the monastery and temple. The temples at Tabo are really special, truly ancient and otherworldly places. Founded over a thousand years ago Tabo is the oldest continually operating Buddhist site in the Himalayas.
Inside, the temple was magical, it smelt of wood and a thousand years of incense. Ornately carved images of the Buddhist pantheon crowded the walls, and small oil burners gave a dancing light across the painted walls. The monastery, even to us non-believers, felt truly holy, a place centred on something not of this world.
There is the little troublemaker!
Back out in the sunlight we readjusted ourselves back to the here and now. We sat on the steps to the prayer hall and watched as one small puppy attempted (with a fair amount of success) to start a turf war between two of the monastery's dog packs.
After the barking had subsided we boarded our bus and bid goodbye to Tabo.
Passing over bridges covered in colourful prayer flags (and stopping for the obligatory selfies) we made our way up switchbacking mountain roads until we reached a high pass overlooking the Dhankar Monastery. The Dhankar Monastery sits at the centre of a “lotus” of mountains. A rock spire sits as the nexus with prayer flags radiating outwards.
Dhankar Monastery itself clings to a cliff face, its building budding outwards precariously. Inside it was a riot of colour and inscrutable (to us and our group at least) symbolism. Intricate artwork of the Buddha, devils, and geometric lotuses sat underneath a stuffed goat. We saw the humble room given to the Dali Lama on his visits and the bare austerity of the meditation cave.
Above the monastery was the ruins of the King's palace. This humble (for a King at least) palace had low mud and wood ceilings and an incredible view across the valley.
Lunch was at a small restaurant overlooking the monastery. We went for the Tibetan staple of Thukpa; a hearty soup filled with vegetables, chicken and buckwheat noodles. The version we ate at Dhankar had a sweet and sour flavour with crunchy just cooked vegetables, it was a perfect, warming lunch for the increasingly chilly day.
After lunch we stocked up on cookies and departed for the final drive of the day to the town of Kaza.
After another stunning drive full of mountain passes, remote villages and incredible views, we pulled into the outskirts of Kaza and our Zostel. We decamped into our dorms and, as we would be here for the next three nights, spent some time unpacking and getting settled.
Kaza was the largest town we had stopped in on our Spiti valley trip so, after settling into our accommodation we headed out to explore.
We loved Kaza. This remote Himalayan town was full of little lanes, cafes, Tibetan restaurants, shops and, above all, friendly people. Ellie was stopped by children and attacked with English homework questions, the shopkeepers were friendly and there wasn’t a hint of ”tourist pricing” when John purchased a snazzy scarf.
We sampled the local super fruit of Sea Buckthorn in the form of a tea at the popular Himalayan Cafe. Sweet yet citrusy with a floral undertone, it was lovely, although we are not sure it can quite live up to the longevity claims made by the locals. We also had a plate of freshly steamed vegetable momos.
Momos are a kind of Tibetan dumpling, filled with vegetables, chicken or mutton and wrapped in a soft skin of dough. Momos are either steamed or deep fried and are a great snack. The momos at the Himalayan cafe were juicy and plump and were served with a piquant pepper dip.
On our way back to the Zostel we heard the beat of drums and the march of feet. This time it was not a mysterious procession for a dead goat but a wedding party! Townsfolk and people from the surrounding villages poured into town, all dressed to the nines in their traditional clothes and dancing along to the beat of the drum.
With the procession winding into town, we headed for the lights of our hostel.
After another long, beautiful day in Spiti we rejoined our companions for a hearty communal meal and curled up in our cosy dorms for the night.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day Three - Heading for Mars
Day three of our Zostel Spiti Valley Experience saw us leave the green meadows of Chitkul and finally enter the remote Spiti Valley! Read all about our time travelling through changing landscapes of Spello, Nako and finally the cosy valley village of Tabo.
It was an early start on day three. We wormed our way out of our blanket nests and into the sunshine for one last Chitkul morning. We munched down on some hearty omelettes, packed our bags and sipped on a final chai before boarding our minivan bound for the Spiti Valley. We had been in Chitkul and the Kinnaur Valley for two nights and would miss its green mountainous beauty but we had booked on the Spiti Valley Tour and it was time to head deep into the mountains to this secluded valley.
We pulled out of Chitkul and bade goodbye to its homely charms as we began our long journey to the town of Tabo. The roads were….interesting if we were being polite. An alternating patchwork of potholed tarmac, dirt, gravel and naked rock. Our faithful van and expert driver ploughed through it all, dodging the obstacles and occasional goat. Beside the road the apple trees were just starting to blossom. We don't know if we were lucky or if the valley’s micro climate was different from its neighbours, but this was the first blossom of the trip!
Our first stop was the town of Reckong Peo. The town clung to the road as it climbed, switch-backing up the steep slopes.
We were here to pick up our permits to visit the Spiti Valley. When I say we, I just mean us Englishers, the rest of the group being Indian nationals had their passes pre-approved whereas we needed the full package.
Whilst everyone else made their way to the market in search of chai we filled out forms, had our photos taken and paid 500 rupees each (later reimbursed to us by Zostel). The result of all this was two a4 sized permit print outs that we had to keep on us at all times within the valley.
Back on the bus we trundled off again over the mountain towards the river on the other side. We passed massive hydroelectricity projects, dams and military posts all set in the stunning background of the Himalayan mountains. The development was massive in scale, with whole rivers dammed or diverted. Ominous tunnels gaped in the mountain side and warning signs cautioning against swimming were everywhere. Given the power of the river below we can see how much energy can be produced here. The valleys, although developed, had not yet lost their beauty.
Leaving the hydro plants behind we climbed again. The colours outside of the window faded from lush greens to shades of desert yellows and browns. The apple trees thinned out and then disappeared, replaced by gorse and scrub.
We stopped for our lunch at a small dhaba in the tiny village of Spello. We were quickly joined by a large group of nuns and monks clad in burgundy robes. The monks and nuns chatted, giggled and sipped their tea and when a colder wind blew, put on Pink Floyd hoodies!
We ate a tasty lunch of rajma and rice. Rajma is a northern staple, a thick spiced dal made with kidney beans and is just what you need when up in the mountains.
Re-fuelled, we made our way back to the bus but not before spinning our first prayer wheel of the trip. These colourful wheels can be found everywhere and you spin them to send out their inscribed prayer into the world (and gain some karma). Just make sure you spin them clockwise!
As we left the village, we rose up and down from valley floors to peaks, crossing flag bedecked bridges and clinging to cliff sides. We pulled over at Khab Bridge, the confluence of the Satluj and Spiti rivers. From the bridge we caught a glimpse of the tallest peak in Himachal Pradesh Reo Purgyil, its craggy peak visible down the path of the valley.
We now felt like we were on Mars. The Spiti Valley is a cold, high altitude desert and what little plants and flowers there are, looked nothing like those found at lower altitude. It's a land of rock, snow, dust and shrub.
It’s a landscape like nothing we had seen before. The description above probably doesn’t sound that appealing, but there is a strange and overwhelming beauty to this barren landscape.
The constant towering presence of enormous snow capped mountains gives every sight, every view an overwhelming sense of scale. Sat in our tiny van, we were utterly dwarfed by our surroundings.
Our next stop was the town of Nako and the Moon Lake. The lake was beautiful and set in incredible landscapes, you could even rent a swan pedalo if you wanted to! It felt like an oasis in the desert surrounded by the tall barren peaks with the lake reflecting the homely, coloured wooden houses around.
On the far side of Moon Lake you get a great view over farmers fields and the mountains all around.
Just outside of Nako we stopped at the top of the mountain pass to take in the sights. Nako is the highest village in the Hangrang Valley and at 3625 metres high it really does give some incredible views.
The dogs of India will melt and break your heart in equal measure.
In front of us the road zig-zagged sharply back down the mountain towards our destination.
We snapped some photos, took a few selfies and stroked some adorable puppies before re-boarding the bus for the last leg to Tabo.
The view from the pass at Nako was incredible!
As we descended the mountain the apple orchards reappeared, with the blossoms and green leaves contrasting to the mars-like brown and yellows of the soil and slopes. We passed stone walled houses and brightly painted villages, the otherworldly landscapes of the high passes dissolved into the friendly and colourful Himalayan hamlets.
A humongous boarding school marked the approach to Tabo. Our guide told us that this was his old school and it needs to be a boarding school to allow children from all the remote mountain towns and villages the opportunity to attend. Tabo itself, in the evening light, looked inviting. It is clearly a town used to tourism with guest houses lining both sides of the main road, but it hasn't allowed the development to ruin its aesthetic. Traditional houses and restaurants were everywhere.
Our Zostel homestay was one of the cosiest places we have ever been! We got lucky and nabbed a double room with a pile of blankets and pillows to keep us toasty through the night. The common room was covered in rugs and had a central wood stove to keep us all warm. We have a great night with the group playing a game called “Mr White and Black” - A sort of code name style group game where spies have to disguise themselves without knowing crucial information. After another brilliant dinner and a lot of giggles we retired to our bed.
There had been a power cut the whole time we had been in Tabo, we hadn't really noticed. Lit by candle light and kept cosy with wood fires this was the mountain escape we had fantasised about.
Day three had taken us from the alpine wonderland of Chitkul and the Kinnaur Valley. We had joined the Spiti River and were now fully immersed in the cold, barren yet beautiful landscape of the Spiti Valley. It was like another world and as we snuggled up in our cosy homestay, we were happy to be there!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day Two - An Alpine Adventure!
Day two of our Himalayan adventure sees us in the “Last Village in India” - Chitkul. Join us as we explore this beautiful area of wild mountains, alpine meadows and crystal clear rivers.
After a cosy night under heavy blankets we woke up early and were greeted by one of the most incredible views we have ever seen.
We had arrived in Chitkul in complete darkness the previous night , and had no idea how beautiful our surroundings were. We stepped out through our dormitory door and into perfect blue skies shining over a ring of white capped Himalayan mountains.
We took a walk down to the river, where a small hut proudly proclaimed itself to be the “Last Chai Stand in India”.
With a boast like that, who could resist?
Sat there, on a repurposed school desk, sipping on smokey wood fired chai whilst the river raced beside us and mountains loomed all around, we knew this Spiti Valley trip was going to be special!
After a filling paratha based breakfast at Zostel we piled back into our trusty minivan and headed out for a day of exploring. Our van clung to the edge of cliffs as we bounced and bumped our way along narrow roads.
Reaching the small village of Rakchham we crossed an iron bridge that was absolutely covered in colourful prayer flags. We pulled over for some bridge selfies before heading down to the riverbanks. Down by the sparkling Baspa river, we basked in the morning sunshine on the green riverbanks.
From the riverbank we took a short walk away from the village and found ourselves in an alpine wonderland. Think “The Sound of Music” but with Himalayan sized peaks all around. We were surrounded by lush green meadows full of wildflowers and crystal clear streams flowing all around. It was simply beautiful.
The hills are alive…
The meadows and mountains were not what we had expected when we booked the trip to the Spiti Valley. Later in the journey the landscape would be more sparse and would display a more barren kind of beauty but the Kinnaur and Baspa valleys were rich, green and full of life.
The valley, however, was also home to Chonky Liquorice.
Chonky Liquorice or Chonks for short, was a very large, very young and very playful dog. We do not know what his real name was or what breed he was. We suspect Chonks was a mix of every breed, with possible hippopotamus ancestry. Chonks started out as a lovely travel companion, but the combination of a puppy brain and the build of a small rhinoceros eventually led to problems. He took a special shine to John who was nearly “playfully” smashed to the ground on several occasions and ended the day covered in large muddy paw prints.
Whilst dodging the dogs “playful” advances, we had an incredible morning exploring the meadows. We crossed rivers and streams on stepping stones and log bridges all the while taking in the incredible mountain views that surrounded us.
We stopped for lunch at a nearby campsite. We opted for the kadai paneer, it was a spicy, filling and delicious paneer curry with a rich tomato sauce. Whilst we were waiting for it to be cooked we played stone bowling with the groups water bottles. Ellie smashed it (and nearly a water bottle) whilst John scored a large pile of nothing.
After lunch we headed back to Chitkul and had the afternoon to explore it at our own pace. Chitkul is the last motorable Indian village before the Tibetan border and is a small collection of wood and stone homes, with a few guest houses and cafe’s dotted around.
We had seen that there was some form of wooden temple or village hall in the centre of town and another gold topped temple set further out on the slopes. We headed towards the ornate wooden building and it wasn't long until we started to hear the beating of drums. We paused on the side of the road and saw the gates open and a small procession emerge. Men carrying trays of liver and entrails walked solemnly past us followed by a severed goats head. Finally the carcass itself came past with the men walking in step to the drum’s beat. The procession moved on and marched up the hill to the golden temple, where a small crowd had assembled.
We asked our guide about this later, but all he could tell us was a cryptic “village custom, village tradition”. Later that day we passed a group of men cleaning the goat intestines next to a pump, so it is a safe bet that the goat would not be going to waste!
We walked through the village on small stone walled paths passing by goats and curious children. In front and behind us the valley stretched away, the lower slopes of the mountains belted in green pines and punctuated by waterfalls. As the slopes steeply rose the trees fell away as the mountain rose to snowy peaks.
There needs to be a new word for describing Chitkul. Chitkul is not picturesque, that word doesn’t begin to give justice to the vast landscapes and complex beauty of the place. You can’t simply say that Chitkul is beautiful. It is one of those places like an old cathedral or vast ruin that makes you feel tiny in all the best ways.
The Himalayas had always been a far flung dream, a snowy wilderness that always seemed a million miles away but standing in Chitkul the Himalayas of our dreams was being outshined by the reality.
Coming out from the other side of the village, we finally looped back towards our Zostel, passing families hanging our rugs to dry, children playing and little old ladies bowed under huge stacks of kindling. It was like we were in a different time on a different world.
Back at the hostel we rejoined the group and jumped back into the minivan. Our destination this time - the Tibetan border!
We had a short drive down the valley (Chitkul really is the last village before the border), and got off at a military barrier. A stern soldier with a fantastic handlebar moustache and large gun gruffly acknowledged our group. We learned from him that this was a very hard posting for a soldier.
Guarding the border you have endure freezing temperatures far below zero in the winter. The harsh environment, along with Chitkul’s remote location and the volatile, complex nature of the border mean that this posting is not the place for the faint of heart.
After chatting to the border guards and in John’s case having his documents examined, we about-faced and started the walk back along the road to Chitkul. It was only a 2km walk and the scenery was stunning so we sent the van on ahead and set off on foot.
Our faithful minivan!
The walk back along the valley was, like so much of the day, spectacular! The sun was just starting to set and the orange glow streaming across the valley lit up the mountains in front of us. Our group of merry travellers snapped photos, chatted and filmed as we walked back through the fading light.
Back at Zostel the bonfire had been lit and we all clustered around to enjoy the warmth. A bottle claiming to be a ‘Shiraz’ wine appeared along with the information that this was a “local wine”. It was not ‘Shiraz’, it was not what we in England would call wine. It was, however, surprisingly smooth and did several laps of the bonfire.
After a while we all bundled into the cosy common room for dinner. The Zostel dinner was delicious! Bone-in butter chicken that melted in your mouth and rich cinnamon spiced Dal Makhni all served up with hot roti and rice. We chilled with our group, played Jenga and had a lengthy, if bizarre, argument about if biscuits were to be considered bread, and, conversely, if bread should be dipped in tea.
It had been our first proper full day in the Himalayas and it had been magical. We returned to our dorms, retreated under the cosy heavy covers and called it a day.
Click below to watch our YouTube video about our day around Chitkul!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Spiti Valley Diaries Day One - Into The Mountains
Our first day of our Zostel Spiti Valley experience has us leave the hill town of Shimla and wind our way deep into the Himalayan mountains. Featuring goats, a landslide and amazing natural beauty!
Our Spiti journey began early in the morning in the hill station of Shimla. We exited our hostel in the dawn light and had a very pretty taxi ride through the deserted streets. We arrived at the bus station ready to begin our Spiti adventure.
We quickly met the rest of our Zostel crew, boarded our mini bus and began our journey into the mountains!
Chatting to our new found friends, we wound up through the hills, getting deeper into the mountainous landscape of Himachal Pradesh. The villages flowed by and the road became narrower and narrower as we climbed higher and higher.
Shortly into the drive we pulled over next to a small restaurant to grab some breakfast. As we climbed down the steps and into the foyer, we were greeted with our first views of the Himalayas in the distance. The restaurant had been built on the side of the road, facing out across the steep slopes of the valley. Below the restaurant's dining room, orchards of apple trees clung to the valley side, and far off towards the horizon, like the crest of a distant breaking wave, the snow capped peaks of the Himalayas glinted white in the morning sun. As we tucked into breakfast noodles and parathas this was our first glimpse of our destination, we couldn’t wait to get there!
Breakfast with a view!
Bellies full, we headed back on the road and continued our climb upwards. We quickly found ourselves driving at the same height as hovering birds of prey. Orchards lined the valleys and the air was full of the buzzing of bees. On every mountain corner hives were laid out across the roadside with honey for sale, their beekeepers dozing in the nearby shade.
We had a brief lunch stop of delicious thali in a roadside village (excitingly this also included our first yak sighting!) and continued on our way. Our first photo stop came soon after. We were now travelling through the Kinnaur Valley. The road clung to the very edge of the vertical cliffs. The apple trees had been replaced by pine, and the air was noticeably cooler. We jumped out of our van to see the that the road had been carved straight through the side of the mountain leaving a massive gaping rock archway above. This famous stone arch is called the Tranda Dhank. We snapped our obligatory photos, had a quick group selfie and were on our way once again.
As we snaked our way through the valley there were frequent reminders that we were driving along one of the world's most dangerous roads. There were ragged gaps in the road side barriers, frequent memorial shrines and far below on the cliff face and steep walls, shrapnel and debris from accidents. We were very glad of our expert driver Pramod.
Just one of the roadside obstacles we faced on the journey!
Another reminder of how treacherous this area could be, came soon after as our mini bus rolled slowly to a halt amidst a long queue of stationary traffic. We had encountered our first landslide! There are worse places to be stuck than the beautiful Kinnaur Valley. Knowing we could be in for a long wait, we jumped out of the minibus and took in the stunning surroundings.
Thanks Shivam for the photo!
Mountains in every direction rose up and towered above us. Next to us on the vertical mountains, a herd of mountain goats stood nearly impossibly on the steep slope. Unconcerned by the traffic, they continued to munch on the grass and gorse. The goats were obviously part of an owned flock as dotted amongst them were the largest sheepdogs we had ever seen.
The enormous dogs had huge fluffy coats to protect them from the elements and massive terrifyingly spiky collars to protect them from predators.
After two hours a trickle of motorcycles sped past us in the opposite direction, this was the sign we had been waiting for. The road was cleared! According to our tour leader Gyalli we had got off lucky. We had only been stuck for a couple of hours, but a landslide in this remote corner of India could of left us stranded for a lot longer.
As the afternoon wore on the landscape changed again. The pine trees thinned out and were replaced by low scrub and gorse. The mountains grew ever taller around us and those white tipped peaks we had caught sight of at breakfast, were now rising above us. The roads changed as well, gone was the tarmac replaced now by rock and stone. We bounced along through villages that were looking more and more “Himalayan” with bricks and stone replaced by wood and mud. The people seemed to change as well, there were less saris and tunics and more heavy woollen waistcoats and colourful Himachal caps. Alongside the thundering trucks, donkeys plied their way carrying what looked like very unfair loads in baskets on their backs.
We climbed up, and eventually over, a high mountain pass. As we descended into the valley below, the sun started to set. The orientation of the valley was perfect so as we zig zagged down and through the valley, we were chased by the fading light. The sun would disappear behind the peaks, we’d turn a corner and it would blaze out again. It was an incredible drive!
Our landslide delay meant we were coming into our penultimate stop of Sangla as darkness was falling. Despite the twilight gloom, there was no mistaking we were deep in the Himalayas now. The last light of the day was being reflected off of the snow capped peaks that surrounded us. The air also had grown thin. We hadn’t noticed the change, but even standing up after tying your shoe laces gave an unpleasant head rush. Sangla was a brief stop to stock up on any supplies we needed as for the next two days we would be staying in the much smaller mountain village of Chitkul. Supplies brought and darkness fully descended, we got back into the bus and rattled off on the final leg of the days’ journey.
We arrived into Chitkul a few hours later and checked into our dorm rooms at Zostel. Up in the mountains it was so much colder than sea level, a little less than a week ago we had been in Chandigarh where the temperature pushed 40 degrees celsius, here in Chitkul it was hovering around the 0 degree mark! Bundled up in warm clothes, we all sat in the cosy common room for a late dinner and a communal game of Jenga.
Our first day had mainly been spent on a bus. We had been bounced around rocky roads for over twelve hours, been stuck at landslides and nearly passed out from over exertion at high altitude. Despite all of this, it had been incredible! We’ve never seen landscapes like what we had driven through that day. We have always wanted to see the Himalayas and that dream had very much come true. The scenery had been amazing the company great and the adventure very real.
And this was only day one!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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