Vertigo and Views - The Ambuluwawa Tower
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Any prolonged social media trawl of Sri Lanka will, at some point, yield a bizarre, twisting structure of white stone spiralling up into the sky. Sitting on a hilltop above Gampola town, the Ambuluwawa Tower looks almost impossibly high. Photos from Instagram seem to show tiny narrow staircases clinging to the outside with only a low railing separating the influencers from a long plunge to the valley below.
But still, we all know about Instagram versus reality right? It can’t be that bad… right?
How to get to Abuluwawa Tower
Ambuluwawa Tower and Biodiversity complex sit near the town of Gampola - Map Link. Staying in Kandy, there are a few options that will get you to Ambuluwawa Tower:
Travel by train
Gampola railway station is easily accessible by train from Kandy. Sitting along the famous Ella to Kandy route the station is only half an hour away. However, as it is on the popular route, trains can be very crowded and tickets will sell out quickly. If you don’t mind standing, and don’t object to queuing for a while, third class tickets are almost always available. It is only a short journey so standing shouldn’t be a problem. From Gampola train station you will need a tuk tuk to either; the entrance of the Ambuluwawa Biodiversity Complex (4km up from the train station) or, if you’re lazy like us, a tuk tuk all the way to the tower (a further 2km up more mountainous roads).
Travel by Bus
From Kandy there are frequent buses that will take you to Gampola and back again. Do not listen to Google Maps which will tell you that it is at least two buses, just jump on any 718 bus from Kandy bus stand. Again, as above, once you get to Gampola you will need to get a tuk tuk to get you to the entrance or all the way to the tower.
Travel by Tuk-Tuk
On a whim, John checked the PickMe app and was pleasantly surprised to see that it was only 2500 LKR (£6.01 or $6.85) to get from the centre of Kandy to Gampola town. We had previously been offered a round trip for 20000 LKR (£48.08 or $54.80) to see the tower (this was earlier in our trip and the high price may have been due to the fuel crisis)! As we had missed the first train of the day, and Google Maps was telling us the bus would require a connection (lies) we wimped out and ordered a tuk tuk on the app. When our driver arrived, we had a brief chat and agreed 6000 LKR (£14.79 or $16.86) for the trip. This would be for the 25km drive to the tower, the driver to wait for us as we climbed and for the return drive to Kandy.
Private Tour
You can book a private tour in advance to take you to and from the tower. You can use Get Your Guide:
Or you can have a look at Tripadvisor. Both Get Your Guide and Tripadvisor will be able to organise a pick up and drop off tour from a variety of locations.
Entrance to the Ambuluwawa Biodiversity Complex
After about an hour's ride from Kandy including a steep climb up from Gampola town we arrived at the grand entrance to Ambuluwawa Biodiversity Complex. Hopping out to purchase tickets we were charged 1200 LKR (£2.89 or $3.29) for entrance to the park and access to climb the tower.
After the entrance, came the climb. We were in a tuk tuk but many locals were conquering this winding, almost ridiculously steep (sometimes nearly vertical) 2km ascent on foot. At one point, John had to decamp from the tuk tuk and jog alongside as the driver struggled to climb an especially sharp hairpin. After what seemed like an infinity of serpentine bends we arrived at the base of the tower.
Climbing The Ambuluwawa Tower
Words make it difficult to describe just how strange a building the Ambuluwawa Tower is. A towering white plinth, splaying outwards as it grows upwards, is crowned by a twisted conch shell cone. A spiralling staircase clings precariously to the side of the roof, climbing to its pointed tip. Ellie remarked that it wouldn’t be out of place in a Bond film, with its point slowly being revealed as the evil lair/rocket escape pod for the main villain.
The tower is set within a multi faith temple complex, with an ornate church, mosque, Hindu temple and Buddhist shrine. All the places of worship sit peacefully next to each other, arranged around a central fountain. There is a larger park and biodiversity complex on top of the mountain, but on this occasion we were there to climb the tower.
The view from the base of the tower was amazing, we had climbed so high up in our tuk tuk that we were treated to a spectacular view over Gampola town and the surrounding hills. We felt that we were high enough already, but when we looked back to the tower and craned our necks we saw we had a long way up still to go.
Entering through the dark and slightly damp interior, the base of the tower does not inspire confidence for the coming climb. There was a lot of water on the floor, cracked tiles on the steps and very little light. Passing by an empty ticket booth we started our spiral ascent. The first half of the climb is inside the tower. Arrow slit windows give a glimpse of how far you’ve climbed, and missing handrails give a glimpse into the maintenance schedule of the tower. After many floors, we were thrust out into the sunshine and given our first stomach churning reality check of just how high up we were.
Spiralling upwards, the staircase on the inside of the Ambuluwawa Tower base.
The climb on the outside of the tower is a whole different matter to the inside. Inside you’re climbing up a slightly shonky staircase, where, if you fall off you might have an unpleasant six foot fall. Outside, you’re climbing up a slightly shonky staircase, with only a waist level handrail separating you and oblivion. Add in to the mix: uneven steps, some so shallow that your shoe wouldn’t fit on them and a staircase that was so narrow in parts that it required you to turn sideways, shuffling along and clinging to the tower's trunk. Oh, and just for fun, some of the stairs have sizeable gaps between the steps, giving you a lovely view all…the…way…down!
The stairs are in “fantastic” condition!
Neither me nor Ellie really struggle with heights, but this tower really pushed me out of my comfort zone. There was something about the low height of the handrail, the vertical drop and the narrowness of the staircase that really pushed me!
To quote Sir Terry Pratchett: “Tiffany wasn’t afraid of heights at all…what she was afraid of, although she hadn’t realised it up until this point, was depths… she was in fact afraid of the ground” (A Hat Full of Sky, Terry Pratchett 2004).
As we wound our way to the top we passed tiny cubby holes where Sri Lankan teens were hanging out. These tiny alcoves, set into the tower's trunk, were the only places you could pass another person as you got near to the top. The staircase got narrower and narrower until eventually, mercifully, it came to a point at the peak of the tower. The view from the top was simply out of this world. We had a clear day overlaid with thick clouds above and the whole region below was spread out like a map. We were on top of an enormous tower on the tallest peak for miles around. The blanket of cloud above, was joined by wispy shreds floating below us, with a smell on the wind that promised rain. It was terrifying (for me at least) clinging to the edge of this tiny walkway but at the same time amazing. You would literally need to have wings to have a better view than we did that day.
The view was really just… wow!
We took our photos, and gingerly made our way back down the tower. John’s confidence returning in every step downwards.
The trip to Ambuluwawa Tower was well worth it. As a half day excursion from Kandy, it is worth the Instagram hype as the views really are breath-taking (not just from the terror). The tower itself is a remarkable example of strange architecture resembling something close to both Gaudi and a fairytale castle. For the price of the tuk tuk and entrance, we found it massively worth it and can recommend to all those with an adventurous spirit, or at least all those with adventurous spirit that don’t have vertigo!
Tips and Tricks when climbing the Ambuluwawa Tower
When to go to Ambuluwawa Tower
We visited at a time when tourism was very low in Sri Lanka. We were lucky that, other than us, there was no one else climbing the tower at the same time and only a few people on the tower at all. We cannot imagine what this place would be like if it was busy. There is literally room for one person to climb one way on the tower and there are very few passing points as you make your way higher.
The tower itself was completely unattended when we visited. We did pass a ticket booth at the bottom of the staircase but this was unmanned. In the event of something happening there would have been no assistance, and you would have to run down the hill and find one of the police or military checkpoints. This may have changed since we visited but it it worth baring in mind before you do something dumb - like pose for an ill advised selfie!
We would set off early for the tower, try to beat the rush and get there before it gets crowded. Google lists the opening time as 7:30Am so aim a little after that
Beware of the Monkeys!
There are a lot of monkeys in the park surrounding the tower, just be wary of your belongings and food. We did see a gaggle of locals lose their picnic to a small family of macaques.
Driving yourself to Abuluwawa
If you are driving yourself, in a tuk tuk or on a moped, please be very careful on the way down. The hairpins are so steep and the turns so vicious that it is very easy to lose control. Our tuk tuk was expertly handled, however we did pass by an unfortunate couple who had crashed their moped into the barrier. They were comparatively lucky as there are many stretches that have no barrier at all and the drops are extreme.
Ambuluwawa to Colombo?
We have read online that you can travel to the tower from Colombo, however we feel that this would be an extremely long travel day. Colombo to Gampola is three and half hours away by car or four hours and a bit by train. The tower is great, and the views fantastic but we did only spend about an hour there, so a six plus hour round trip may not be worth it. You almost certainly will be in Kandy at some point whilst travelling Sri Lanka so it makes much more sense to visit Ambuluwawa Tower from Kandy.
What if I am Afraid of Heights?
This may not be the place for you. The tower is very very tall with little separating you from the drop. If you want to challenge your fear, by all means have a go but John isn’t even afraid of heights and found this a fear inducing climb. However, the area around the base of the tower has spectacular views and feels perfectly safe and grounded. The Temple gardens are also beautiful so if your friends want to climb the tower you can wander off and do your own thing quite happily!
Thanks for reading.
John and Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
A very quick selfie taken at the summit!
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