Koh Jum - An Island A World Away
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Koh Jum is a beautiful island in the Andaman Sea off the west coast of Thailand. Surrounded by more famous neighbours, Koh Jum remains a haven for those willing to get off the “beaten track” and go a little deeper in their Thai island hopping adventures.
Filled with pristine beaches, friendly locals and a wealth of good, cheap accommodation and tasty food, Koh Jum is a fantastic island getaway.
The island is an island of two halves. The northern part of the island is known as Koh Pu and the southern as Koh Jum. When booking tickets, or accommodation the two seem to be interchangeable.
How To Get To Koh Jum?
The island of Koh Jum lies south of Krabi town but north of Koh Lanta. Although not a popular stop off as Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi or Phuket, Koh Jum is still very easy to get to from either mainland or a different western island.
Getting to Koh Jum from the islands:
All of the major ferry companies that run up and down the western coast of Thailand will stop at Koh Jum if instructed too. Just book your tickets online via 12Go (LINK) or in person with an island travel agent or your accommodation.
Getting to Koh Jum from the mainland:
The easiest way to get to Koh Jum from the mainland is from Krabi town. There used to be a direct ferry from the main town pier so first check if this has resumed! If not, it shouldn’t be an expensive transfer to get on a Songtheaw or taxi from Krabi town to Laem Kruat pier.
From here, the public ferry departs every two or so hours and will bring you straight to Koh Jum within an hour. The public ferry is a large longtail boat which also serves as the island's cargo delivery service, so when you board expect to clamber over crates of cauliflowers, boxes of bike tyres and other island essentials.
For those feeling very thrifty, there is a Songtheaw that runs from Krabi town to the pier, but it is not very frequent, so plan ahead and have backups.
When looking at transport to Koh Jum, please be aware that the island is also known as Koh Pu.
Tickets for the local ferry cost 100 baht per ticket (£2.35 or $2.93).
When Should You Visit Koh Jum?
As with all of the islands on the west coast of Thailand the best time to visit is between December and April as this is the dry season so you have a better chance of hot, sunny days and clear blue seas for swimming.
On other islands this peak season may lead to more crowding on the beaches etc, however when we visited Koh Jum during the height of the peak season, we really didn’t feel it was busy, or that any prices were inflated!
Why Go To Koh Jum / Should I Go To Koh Jum?
Despite being surrounded by hyper-popular tourist destinations, and having golden sanded beaches and turquoise clear water, Koh Jum remains an untapped paradise. We’re not saying it's “undiscovered” or that you’ll have the whole beach to yourself or anything like that, but it's crazy how calm and secluded Koh Jum is.
The island felt very local when we visited, it felt like the island operated its own economy first, with tourism taking a back seat. Koh Jum was a perfect “getaway” island with enough to do where you couldn’t be bored, but with such a chilled out and relaxed vibe that you could comfortably do nothing.
In case it's not clear from the above, Koh Jum is not a party island. There is a hostel on the island but we can’t comment on how sociable it is as we didn’t stay there. We were staying in a lovely bungalow (more on this later) and felt that the island was perfect for us as a couple, but might not be the best for meeting people.
Koh Jum is the perfect island for those who want to slow down, watch a sunset, walk along empty beaches and maybe have a relaxed scooter drive around.
Should you go… yes! In our eyes, it's a wonderful island that's managed to escape the remote work/brunch/techno scene found on other islands.
The island is worth it for the sunsets alone!
Accommodation - Where To Stay On Koh Jum?
The majority of accommodation on Koh Jum stretches along the main road in the central village of Ban Ting Rai, in the heart of the island. Accommodation is available directly on the beach or along the main road itself. There is the usual variety of hostel, bungalow, beach shack all the way up to a fancy resort.
We stayed at the Garden Home Resort along the island's main road. We had a garden bungalow raised on stilts, which was frankly massive. With a fan, fridge and basic en-suite bathroom it had all the amenities we needed. As well as a great outside area with a chair and table we could relax on in the evenings.
All this cost us 500 baht per night (£11.74 or $14.66).
What To Do On Koh Jum?
Koh Jum is definitely about relaxing! If we were to say the top five things to do on the island, we’d probably fill the first four entries with variations of lounging on a beach. So we would certainly say that the number one thing you should do on Koh Jum is sit back and relax on one of its many beaches. Speaking of which…
The Beaches of Koh Jum:
Sunset Beach
Nestled at the north western corner of the island is Sunset Beach. Sunset beach is so called because, guess what, you can watch the sunset from it! Sunset beach is a gorgeous ribbon of golden sands that was, at least when we visited, way quieter and more deserted than such a great beach deserved to be.
The beach has plenty of space to lay down your towel to soak the rays, as well as gorgeous blue waters for swimming and snorkelling. There are also a couple of resorts nearby with at least one offering food and drinks on the beach.
If you walk down Sunset Beach you can’t help but notice a fantastical structure sitting out in the surf. Perched atop a rock, and looking like the lovechild of a treehouse and a hurricane, precariously sits a Ghibli-like house. Legend has it that this was built by a local eccentric, and we did hear that you could stay there overnight. But when we visited, there was no sign of the eccentric and with its walls open to the waves it didn’t look as though anyone had stayed there recently.
Howl’s swimming castle?
Getting to Sunset Beach
Arrange a tuk tuk to drop you off there or drive yourself up the island's main road and simply park where the road runs out and the beach begins (right next to Peace Bar and Restaurant).
Coconut Beach
Also set in the north west of the island, Coconut Beach is a secluded beach haven that’s not to be missed! Set a short walk from the main road down a dirt path, this small semi circular cove is surrounded by tall swaying coconut trees, and is a perfect secluded place to take a dip. Being off the main road, this beach is even quieter than its neighbours and so its a good chance you’ll get the beach to yourself.
Getting to Coconut Beach
On the main road towards Sunset Beach, there is a small turning onto a dirt track. We’d recommend parking your scooter here as the path becomes sandy/bumpy/nonexistent. As you approach the beach, the path splits into two, with the left hand path leading to the Mupa Resort and the right hand turning leading you through the palm trees out onto Coconut Beach.
Long Beach
This beach or rather beaches certainly earns the name Long Beach. Taking up a good portion of the western side of the island, this beach stretches out as far as the eye can see. The beach can be divided into smaller sections, as at lower tides, the rocky outcrops from the shore will cut off parts of the beach from one and other. These are listed on Google Maps as Magic Beach in the north, Ting Rai Beach in the middle and Golden Pearl Beach in the south.
We thought Magic Beach was the most picturesque of the beaches, with perfect waves lapping up on to golden sands. The beach is huge and has plenty of space to sunbathe and swim. Magic Beach is also perfect for front row seats to watch the sun set.
We recommend grabbing a cold beer from Roots Hill Cafe and Bar (Location). Looking for all the world like a shipwreck got organised (and very into Bob Marley), the Roots Hill Bar spills out across the sands. With driftwood furniture, rope swings, flag's and ramshackle bar furniture. Chilled out vibes and a great spot for sunset, this is everything a beach bar should be.
The southern beach of Golden Pearl backs directly onto the main island road and has the most luxurious resort on the island. We didn’t spend too much time on this beach, but did enjoy an early morning walk along it and it looked like it would be great for a day of sunbathing and swimming. Like the other two beaches, this beach faces west and would make a great place to watch the sun go down.
Sandwiched between these two beaches are the rocky shores of Ting Rai Beach, although not as good for swimming or sunbathing, this beach was our favourite place to watch the sunset.
Hugging the rocks at the back of the beach is The Rock Bar (Location).
A driftwood bar, set on stilts and clad in the usual reggae colours of red, yellow and green. The bar is divided into several areas, with comfy cushions on the floor and a wooden ladder leading down to the beach.
Kitties are a massive bonus to the bar!
With great music and a chilled out vibe, this bar was the perfect place to watch the sunset over the Andaman Sea. The rocky outcrops, bunting and the beaches' cove-like shape lent extra drama to the silhouettes of the setting sun.
Getting to Long Beach
Long Beach can be accessed from the road at the southern end (closest to Golden Pearl Beach) or as you travel north, any left hand turning off the main road. Most of these roads will quickly become dirt tracks so it may be best to park your scooter on the main road and walk the short distance over the hill to the beach.
Once you’re on the beach you can walk between any of the three beaches at low tide. At high tide, you can still get between the beaches, just look for the white arrows leading you up, over and around the rocks.
Hiring a Scooter to Explore the Island
Koh Jum is a small island that can easily be driven around within a few hours. Scooters can be rented everywhere, just ask at your accommodation.
Our scooter rental plus helmets cost us 200 baht per day (£4.69 or $5.89).
Tip: Check your scooter when you rent it! Some of the bikes on the island are, how should we phrase this…. elderly. Make sure your tires have tread and the breaks work before scooting off!
Starting from the south of the island you’ll find yourself in the pierside village of Ban Koh Jum. This is where the majority of the speedboats and ferries arrive and depart from. This village has a few restaurants and cafes, with some sitting picturesquely out onto the water's edge. There are also some souvenir shops, craft shops and grocery stores including one which you can buy beer from.
Koh Jum is predominantly a Muslim island and therefore most restaurants don’t serve alcohol. It's available in bars and certain shops on the island.
Heading up north on the island's main road, you’ll pass resorts and restaurants as you lead into the main tourist hub of Ban Ting Rai. This village is stretched along both sides of the main road and is where most of the accommodation and restaurants are. The village also has the local mosque as well as fruit sellers and mini marts (no alcohol in these shops).
As you continue further on north, the housing thins out and you’ll find yourself scootering through rubber plantations and thick green foliage.
To the north the road splits in two, with the left hand road (western) leading to Sunset and Coconut Beach and the right hand turn leading to the final village on the island of Ban Ko Pu. This village felt to us like the island's “real” hub. Full of fishermen and their boats, and shops serving the local population. There are a couple of restaurants here including a very well reviewed seafood joint, but when we were here it was closed for a private function.
The island has one major road that is fully paved, so there’s no danger of getting lost! However, the island is deceptively large and so getting around by scooter is a sensible choice. The island does have taxis but either you need to get lucky or arrange them in advance. Either way, the taxi costs would soon add up to be more than a scooter rental for the day.
Other Things To Do
Koh Jum Viewpoint
According to Maps.me there is a viewpoint you can hike to on Koh Jum, and during our stay we did see faded signs offering tours to take you up through the rubber plantations to the top. However the weather was perfect for beaching, so we thought better of a sweaty climb and decided to enjoy the beaches instead. If you do climb to the viewpoint, let us know what it was like in the comments below.
Where to Eat on Koh Jum ? Our Top Restaurant Recommendations for Koh Jum
Koh Jum Seafood (Location)
Right next to the island's southern pier is the popular Koh Jum Seafood restaurant. We popped in here for lunch on the day we were exploring the island by scooter. Set right over the water's edge, this seemed like the perfect place for us to indulge in some fresh seafood. We knew it was fresh as in addition to the live tank at the front of the restaurant, a boat had pulled up at the back of the dining room and was unloading fresh produce.
We opted for a seat right at the back with views out to sea. We ordered fried fish with garlic and pepper as well as crab with spring onions and some steamed rice to share.
When we're by the sea, fried fish is something we always order in Thailand. Unlike our whole fish in Koh Mook (Link), this fish was served as two meaty steaks, perfectly crisp and coated in deep fried garlic. Through some kind of witchcraft the outside and skin were a crispy crunchy delight, with the inside being perfectly juicy and flaky. You can't really go wrong with fried fish in Thailand but this was going so, so right!
The crab landed in a steaming pile on our table, now you see, crab really makes you work for it. There's no staying clean, there's no easy way and there's very little dignity when eating crab, however the rewards are worth it! Fingers covered in shell and a soy and spring onion sauce, we ferreted out the sweet white meat and picked clean the crabs of their meat. It was delicious! The subtle savoury spring onion sauce emphasised the sweetness of the crab, and this paired with the steamed rice and fried fish made for a perfect lunch.
Despite crab and fried fish not being a backpacker budget choice, this restaurant was really reasonable with our total bill including all food, two soft drinks and a bottle of water came to 640 baht (£15.83 or $18.52).
Mama Halal Food (ร้านก๋วยเตี๋ยว) (Location)
Straight off the ferry, we decided, as we always do and walk to our accommodation rather than pay the island taxi fare. On our sweaty journey, we happened to pass Mama Halal Food and stopped in for a quick lunch. The restaurant was unpretentious and unfussy and served us some excellent bowls of chicken noodle soup. Super friendly service and delicious peppery broth, quickly ingratiated Mama Halal Food to us, and served as a wonderful welcome to the island of Koh Jum.
They are very generous with the roast chicken!
Ban Ban Restaurant (Location)
This charming family run restaurant also doubles as a bakery. During our time on the island we ate two fantastic curries. A mild and creamy chicken green curry and a zesty red duck curry, both were fantastic and packed full of fresh, perfectly cooked vegetables. The cauliflower in the green curry was especially lovely. The red curry even featured cubes of dragon fruit. Bear with us now as we go on a small tangent here:
Dragon fruit, the most disappointing of fruits. You see it in the market and it almost looks like it comes from Mars. With a bright pink exterior and a dalmatian speckled interior, your expectations will be sky high. Yet when it comes to eating, bland is the only word we can use. Barely any taste and mainly a pleasant but boring texture. However….
In the red curry, the dragon fruit finally sings! It seemed to take on the flavours of the surrounding curry without compromising its own texture. We don't know if dragon fruit in curry is a thing, or if it's unique to this restaurant, but damn, we're here for it!
Also on a side note, the oat cookies make a fantastic take home dessert!
Pop Up Cafe & Shop (Location)
We're weak okay, we gave in… Ellie was hungover, John needed his cheese fix, we could make all the excuses in the world, but all we wanted was a sandwich.
Pop Up Cafe came up on our Google results and promised us a panini so off we set. A stylish little cafe, set a short walk off the main road, Pop Up Cafe was way better than the images on Google had led us to believe. We ordered a mozzarella, pesto and tomato panini and a serrano ham, cheddar cheese ciabatta roll and both were divine!
We’ve been away from Europe for a while now, and cheese is in short supply in South East Asia. The mozzarella, cheddar and olive oil were a delicious reminder of home and just what was needed when we were feeling a little fragile.
Other notable recommendations on the island are Tingrai restaurant and Krua Chan Ngam restaurant (ครัวจันทร์งาม) both of which served great curries, fried rices and all the usual Thai favourites. We have to give a special shout out to the soy steamed fish at Krua Chan Ngam - It was delicious!
How Long Should You Stay on Koh Jum?
Koh Jum is a small island, with less “to do” than other western Thai islands, however you could easily spend a good few days lounging on its wonderful beaches. If you’re travelling with a group and bring the party with you, Koh Jum could be a fantastic island to spend a few days chilling out on beaches and drinking on. If you’re a solo or couple traveller and are just looking to reset, a couple of nights on Koh Jum would be plenty. It's so close to the mainland and so well connected to other islands that it could easily be tagged onto any itinerary.
Final Thoughts
Koh Jum is a perfect getaway for those looking for a quieter island to relax on. Great beaches, chilled out bars, good, cheap accommodation and a fantastic choice of restaurants, make Koh Jum a brilliant addition to an island hopping itinerary.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
*Prices correct at time of writing - April 2023
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