Long Bien Market - The Ultimate Food Tour in Hanoi
Hanoi is the perfect city for a foodie, every corner of every street seems to have amazing food. But how do you dive deeper than the tourist spots, how do you go beyond the Old Quarter favourites? Read our guide to A Chef’s Tour - Hanoi Dawn for all the information about the most amazing food and market tour in northern Vietnam.
The Vietnamese capital of Hanoi is a food travellers dream, from the labyrinth of alleyways in the Old Quarter to shophouse restaurants and Michelin starred market traders, it's a city bursting full of culinary delights. With the famous bun cha and northern style pho, as well as iconic banh mi and egg coffee, the city has countless tasty treats and delicious delicacies to tantalise the taste buds of any traveller! If you’ve read any of our blogs in the past, you’ll know that we love a food tour and we frequently put our trust in “A Chef’s Tour” when landing in a new city.
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Hanoi is no different. In order to dive in straight at the deep end and find the best hidden eateries beyond Instagram and Lonely Planet guidebooks, we booked ourselves on the “Hanoi Dawn” walking street food tour.
The Food Tour - Hanoi Dawn Eats
Very little that is good happens at 4am. If you’re still out and partying it is around the time you start to question your life choices, or at least start regretting those beer goggles. 4am is not a time, generally speaking, that people are awake by choice.
Outside of our apartment in Hanoi’s Old Quarter a group of revellers were noisily soaking up (and in some cases topping up) the night's alcohol with roasted dried squid. Our alarms, mixed with their singing dragged us out of sleep and groggily summoned us to the street, for us, this 4am held promise. It was time for street food.
We were being picked up outside our accommodation in the Old Quarter of Hanoi to be whisked away on an early morning food tour, dining with the locals in and around the capital's busy Long Bien market.
The Beef Pho Market
After a short drive through the dark streets of the Old Quarter we hopped out of our taxi and found ourselves at a surprisingly busy crossroads. Next to us a truck swung open its backdoors revealing its grisly cargo. If you’re interested in food and interested in Vietnam, then you’ll already know about pho.
This delicious noodle soup is made from a complex broth and takes well over twelve hours to make. The most popular pho is pho bo (beef pho) and what was being unloaded next to us was the key ingredient to its magical broth, the beef carcasses. Huge rib cages, spines and shins clattered out of the truck and onto the waiting tarpaulin. Up and down the streets from the crossroads similar stalls were selling cuts of beef, bones and other essentials for the iconic pho soup. At a little past 4am this was a very full on introduction to what was going to be a very full on market tour!
Luckily we had our expert guide Duyen, an ex-market trader, chef, teacher who had appeared on Gordon Ramsay’s Asian Adventures and basically knew everybody and everything in and around the markets of Hanoi. Duyen also runs cooking classes, check out the notes at the end of this blog if you’re interested.
Long Bien Market
Leaving the streets of the Old Quarter behind us, we crossed the main road and arrived at the Long Bien market. Despite it being 4am and our guide Duyen saying the market was actually winding down, the place was packed. A raging current of people, produce, bikes, porters and trucks flowed and crashed around us. Our small group was split up and reformed repeatedly by the tides of market goers around us.
The organised chaos of a morning market!
We moved past piles of pineapples stacked higher than our head, avalanches of avocados, each one bigger than we had ever seen and mountains of melons precariously perched on top of each other. We delved deeper and deeper into the market.
Our guide Duyen was great at showing us where every exotic fruit came from, what the fruits could be used for and even at one point taking us down a market alley to where a group of women were painstakingly crafting wedding displays.
The displays were made out of betel nut and leaves, colourful flowers and fruits, all mounted into fantastic carnivalesque displays. Duyen explained how depending on the economic background of the family, these displays could fetch staggering sums of money.
Sugar Cane
Our first market treat was a cube of freshly cut sugar cane. Piled high they looked like enormous bamboo poles, we hadn’t realised just how big sugar cane could grow.
We walked through the sugar cane warehouse, with sheafs of green and brown canes rising high overhead. We tried picking up a bundle and could barely lift the 12 foot sugar canes. We had seen lengths of sugar cane strapped to the backs of 50cc motorbikes and we have no idea how these daring delivery drivers did this without their bikes being in a permanent state of wheelie!
The long canes are usually used to make sugar cane juice. Sections of long cane are fed through a metal mangle which squeezes out their sweet juice. You can see sugar cane juice for sale on the street all throughout Vietnam and South East Asia and it is a perfect sweet antidote to a sweltering day. The cubes we were gnawing on were the raw product. The cane had simply been shaved and cut into chunks, ready to eat. The chunks were deliciously sweet with a soft woody texture, they were strangely addictive and gave us an early morning energy boost.
Chewing on our stringy sweet treat, Duyen led us behind the towering sugar canes, to the market’s temple, an Aladdin’s cave full to the brim with offerings, paper money, beer cans and fruit.
We were visiting Long Bien market just before the full moon, a particular auspicious time for the Vietnamese market traders, and our guide explained that during the course of the weekend, the temple would swell with offerings.
Even at this early morning hour, a market trader stopped by to sweep the temple and donate a small offering. Leaving the tranquillity of the temple behind us, we delved back into the throngs of people and the turbulence of the market.
Vietnamese Fish Cakes - Cha Ca
We wove our way past bubbling tanks and styrofoam boxes full to the brim with fish and seafood. We passed sturgeon in enormous tanks, coils of eels and even baskets full of frogs!
Vietnam and Hanoi in particular are famous for street side snails and they were here in abundance. Piles of tiger striped shells, enormous whelks and fresh oysters were everywhere. Particularly lively were the laundry baskets full of dancing shrimp which popped, bounced and attempted to throw themselves to freedom as we walked past. The Vietnamese like their food fresh, and there was no way of getting fresher than the still swimming seafood of Long Bien.
Our group came to halt outside a vat of boiling oil. In front laid metal trays stuffed with fishcakes of every shape and size. One of the oldest Vietnamese culinary creations, Cha Ca (Vietnamese fishcakes) can be made with many different types of fish, shellfish or snails. Duyen selected three different types for us to try and the little cakes were swiftly plunged back into the oil to crisp up. The market stall usually sells the fishcakes in bulk and “half-cooked” so that restaurants and street vendors can finish them off to order. As we had Duyen with us, we got to sample them fully cooked and fresh from the stall.
Each of the fishcakes were completely different to the other. The catfish cake was meaty and firm, with a slightly chewy batter. The squid cake was sweeter than the catfish, with chunks of meat contrasting deliciously with the more neutral casing. The snail fishcake was the most unique of the three with an earthy taste and bouncy bits of fresh snail studded throughout. All of the cakes were oily from the fryer yet somehow tasted clean and moreish. Normally these Cha Ca wouldn’t be served by themselves and you’d be eating these alongside a dip or noodle soup, but it was really interesting to eat them this way, fresh and in the market where they could be the star of their own show.
Vietnamese Herbs
Dodging vans and flung buckets of fish water we left the fish market behind and entered the green oasis of the herb section.
Vietnamese herbs are everywhere. So many dishes from Bun Cha to Pho, Banh Xeo to Bun Bo Hue will come served with a basket full of fresh herbs and greens. They are an essential part of balancing Vietnamese food. The market reflected this, with large verdant bouquets full of Vietnamese mint, perilla leaf, saw tooth-coriander and Thai basil. Duyen plucked leaves from these bouquets for us to try and explained what dishes they would go in as well as their traditional medicinal uses.
On a busy intersection between the herbs and fish, a lady wheeled up her portable food stand. It was time to try a Pennywort Vietnamese omelette. Cooking on the world's smallest wok and burner and dodging large lorries and the market traffic, our stall holder fried us up a fresh omelette studded with bitter herbs. Served alongside this, she made a dipping sauce of fresh kumquat juice, salt and chilli. The rich egg and bitter herb contrasted beautifully with the salty, sour and sweet sauce. The wok charred omelette giving a smokey undertone. It's obvious why she sells lots of these in the morning market; they make a great little breakfast.
We continued winding our way through the market as the sun started to rise. Heading under the iconic Long Vien bridge, we walked past bikes weighed down under the weight of flowers, mopeds strapped with towering crates of beer and market porters with their iconic bamboo poles and conical hats. As we left the fringes of the main market behind, we saw the bankers and weighmasters of the market, the electronic money counters whirring next to the bronze weighing scales ensuring accurate rates. As the darkness slowly receded and the spreading sun promised another scorching day, we couldn’t help but think that the market scenes were the perfect microcosm for Hanoi and Vietnam. The timelessness of the market with traditions unchanged for centuries, was studded through with modern innovation.
Vietnamese Sticky Rice - Xôi
On a side street at the edge of the market, Duyen darted off to a vendor sitting on the side of the street with a cooler box full of treats. She returned with a banana leaf plate piled with different types of Vietnamese Sticky Rice. Sticky rice can come in many forms, from the sweet, coconut milk drizzled Thai pudding, to the neutral sticky rice served with curries and salads all across Lao to the deeply savoury, fermented pork filled bundles found in Myanmar. Today’s offering from the streets of Vietnam, consisted of three types of sticky rice in colours ranging from bright orange to the more familiar white topped with crushed peanuts, purple beans, deep fried garlic, shallots and pork floss. Each one a perfect little savoury mouthful. The contrast of the glutinous rice, with the sweet deep fried shallots and crunchy nutty peanuts was delicious. It was hearty, filling and made for a great morning munch.
Even though we were now well outside Long Bien market, the side streets were still full to the brim with stalls and traders. Another unexpected sight on our walking street food tour was when we we rounded a corner and, less than a stone's throw from buckets of eels, bundles of herbs and pyramids of fruit, was a pristine white marquee. Banquet tables, with white clad chairs and beautiful flower arrangements, sat ready and waiting for guests. We had stumbled upon a market place wedding. Duyen told us that this is very common and as the market is such an important place for so many people, weddings were not an uncommon sight here.
Baguette and Sweet Bread - Banh
The sun was now fully risen as we continued down the side streets walking further and further away from the main market. We passed more stall holders, selling live ducks, chickens and geese as well as flower sellers dressed so colourfully they blended in with the flora of their stalls.
The next stop on the food tour was a bakery. The unmistakable smell filled the alleyway and clued us in before we got anywhere near the shop front. The smell of baking bread is always magical. Duyen handed us fresh baked banh mi and a loaf of sweet bread topped with honey and pork floss. Banh mi is well known as the “best sandwich in the world” but banh mi literally translates as bread. This bakery was churning out hundreds and hundreds of freshly baked rolls. Still hot from the oven, they were crispy from the outside whilst perfectly chewy and soft within.
The sweet pork loaf was addictive and nothing like we expected. Sweet from the honey, with a salty tang from the pork floss, it was soft, pillowy and the perfect balance of salt and sweet. If you see this for sale on the streets, definitely give it a go!
Grilled pork, rice noodles and herbs - Bun Cha
Leaving the colourful streets behind, we darted down a small alleyway following the distinctive smell of charcoal and barbecuing meat. It was time for bun cha!
Outside the small shopfront a lady was crouched down fanning the coals of a small pavement side barbecue. In a wire rack on top sat sizzling slices of pork. We headed in and sat at the low table and were quickly presented with bowls of fresh herbs and lettuce, a plate of bun noodles (white rice noodles) and a bowl of sliced papaya and carrots that were swimming in a sweet sauce / stock. Bobbing to the surface of this delicious soup were barbecued pork patties and thin slices of crispy pork belly. Popular all over Vietnam and especially famous in Hanoi and the north, bun cha is delicious. You take the bun noodles, dip them in the sweet sauce, add herbs and vegetables and eat with the meat. Each mouthful is a delicate balance of sweet, salty and sour, cut through with pepper and perfectly caramelised meat. It’s a proper Vietnamese treat.
Famously eaten by former President Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain, bun cha has exploded in popularity, but still isn’t quite as internationally available as the iconic banh mi or pho but is 100% seeking out in Vietnam.
Speaking of pho …
Beef pho - Pho Bo
Leaving the charcoal barbecues behind us, we continued down the flag-strewn alleyway to our next stop, where we were welcomed by an extremely friendly and well fed corgi, who led us to our table. It was time to try a bowl of pho.
The cutest pho buddy you’ll ever see!
At the front of the shop, big vats of bubbling broth, full of lemongrass stalks, chunks of bone and herbs sat behind the counter. These vats contain the pho soup. It takes all night to prepare, and despite its clear, clean appearance it is deep and complex in flavour. Once you’ve had it, there’s no going back.
The owner ladled out this blissful liquid on top of bowls of white pho noodles before adding in cooked beef, slices of raw beef, spring onion, chilli, more herbs and some beef tendon. Duyen explained that this beef had been brought at the very market we had seen at the start of our tour, we had come full circle.
Alongside our bowls, a basket of Banh Quay (fried bread sticks) provided crunch and a way to soak up more of the delicious soup. The beef tendons had been stewed down so long that they melted away when you ate them, and the raw beef cooked instantly the moment it touched the piping hot soup. The pho itself was amazing with a rich complex and deep flavour. Studded with undertones of cinnamon and a background chorus of sweet onion. There really is nothing like a proper bowl of Vietnamese pho. There’s no shortcut to the flavour or cheat way to make it properly, you have to try the real thing.
Hanoi doughnuts - Banh Ran
It was at this point of the street food tour where a sweet treat was needed, and just like that Hanoi provided, okay Duyen had something to do with it as well as we found ourselves at another store selling Banh Ran (Vietnamese doughnuts). These doughnuts are small sweet spheres of deep fried dough covered in sugar. They are sweet, sticky and thoroughly addictive in the way that everything bad for you is!
Vietnamese egg coffee - Cà Phê Trứng
Fuelled by our sweet treats, we rejoined the main road along with the morning rush hour traffic and headed to get our morning coffee. It was time to try the iconic Cà Phê Trứng, Vietnamese egg coffee.
After taking our seats outside a busy coffee shop, out came our egg coffees. At first glance it looks like a normal cappuccino with a sprinkling of chocolate dust over a foamy top. However, one sip in and you’ll quickly realise this is far from a regular ‘cup of joe’. The foamy egg gives a sweet custard-like texture that compliments the dark bitter coffee. It is somewhere between a drink and a pudding, but very tasty and just what we needed after two bowls of noodles and a fried doughnut!
Vietnamese baguette - Banh Mi
Caffeinated and refuelled, it was time for our final stop on the food tour. A short way down the street from the coffee shop, Duyen ushered us on to some plastic stools at a street side banh mi stall. You can’t possibly visit Vietnam without trying a street side banh mi. They are literally everywhere. Luckily for us we were with Duyen and A Chef’s Tour and they had guided us to one of the best.
The crunchy rolls we had seen baking earlier were cut open, slathered in homemade pate, covered with slices of sweet char siu pork, pickled vegetables all topped with coriander, carrot and Vietnamese herbs. Each bite was an explosion of flavour. Rich pate, sharp pickle, sweet char siu and hot chilli all encased in crispy, yet soft baguette. There’s a reason why banh mi are so famous the world over, they just might be the perfect sandwich!
Full to the brim of food and knowledge it was time to head home.
Final thoughts
We had an incredible time with A Chef’s Tour. It had been so worth the early morning get up call. The Long Bien market was a completely unique experience, if we had waited a few hours and got up with the rest of the tourists the market would have been completely changed. The fresh produce stores replaced with hat shops and clothing, the fishmongers closed and the busy fruit stalls gone.
It’s hard to imagine this market ever calming down!
Our guide Duyen was amazing, her years working in the market herself as well as her experience as a professional chef gave an expert eye on everything we had encountered. This tour had been a little different to the other A Chef’s Tours we had taken, it was not a 15 course tasting menu like we had in Bangkok’s Chinatown or Bangkok’s Old Siam, but instead it was focused on bringing to life the early morning market and its produce. We had visited markets with A Chef’s Tour in Delhi’s ancient Chandi Chowk and the northern Thai market of Chiang Mai, but during this tour, every course we ate was influenced by, sourced from, or traditional to Hanoi’s Long Bien market.
Check out some of our other photos from the tour below:
Booking A Chef’s Tour - Hanoi Dawns
How to book this tour?
You can book this tour right here!
Where is the meeting point?
Duyen will come and pick you up from any accommodation within the Old Quarter (or a reasonable distance around). The tour starts at 4am and you will be picked up by taxi. You will also get dropped off at your accommodation at the end of the tour.
Is this tour suitable for everyone?
If you’re into food then definitely yes! A Chef’s Tour specialises in taking you to places that are not sugar coated or watered down for tourists. The food is incredible, authentic and local but so are the sights, sounds and smells of the market.
If you’re especially squeamish, the first stop at the beef market and some of the live animals in Long Bien may be a little much, but remember this is a working market and literally where your food comes from.
Incidentally A Chef’s Tour does state that this tour is unable to accommodate vegans.
If you do have dietary issues make sure you check with them before booking.
What should you wear?
There is a lot of walking in this tour and you will be walking through an active fish market so maybe leave your flip flops and pristine white trainers at home. The tour runs whatever the weather so make sure you dress appropriately.
Other food tours in Hanoi
We loved our time with A Chef’s Tour but accept that 4am is not for everybody. Luckily there are many different food tours you can take in Hanoi. Check out Get Your Guide’s offerings below:
A street food tour that walks you through the culinary delights of Hanoi’s Old Quarter.
A food tour that also incorporates Hanoi’s famous train street.
A food tour that combines food tastings with a ride on one of Hanoi’s traditional cyclo’s.
Equally if you would like to book yourself onto a cooking class with Duyen click here.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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