Mararikulam - Alleppey’s Secret Beach Paradise
Mararikulam came as a surprise to us; a perfect stretch of nearly deserted white sand sitting between the popular towns of Alleppey and Kochi. With laid back beach town vibes, plenty of food and drink choices, loads of accommodation and, of course, a beautiful beach, Mararikkulam was a proper hidden gem! Try something different from the busy beaches of Goa, read our guide to Mararikulam.
A gorgeous stretch of white sands where the crabs outnumber the tourists one hundred to one, Mararikulam is a relaxed little beach community with guest houses, restaurants and hotels all dotted along the coastline of the Arabian Sea. Located a short distance along the coast from the famous backwaters of Kerala and the town of Alleppey, Mararikulam is one of the lesser known gems of South India.
Mararikulam is the perfect getaway for those looking to get some beach time whilst exploring Kerala, without heading to the crowded beaches of Goa.
Find out all about Mararikulam:
From nearby Alleppey
From Cochin or Trivandrum
From further afield
You did not exactly have to fight for a place on the beach in Mararikulam!
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Our experience in Mararikulam
We had loved our beach break in Varkala (read more about that here) and were in the mood for some more time in the sand. Luckily, Jibu the manager of our little guesthouse in Alleppey (which we also loved, check out the blog here), clued us into the existence of Mararikulam. He said it was beautiful, chilled out and should, at this time of year, be cheap and nearly empty of tourists.
And so we decided to check out this less famous Keralan beach town.
We were going to Mararikulam for one last beach break before heading up to Kochi and inland to the highlands and tea fields of Wayanad. It did not disappoint, in fact, it may be our favourite beach town we found in southern India!
The beach at Mararikulam has beautiful white sands that seem to go on as far as the eye can see. Colourful fishing boats lay moored on the beach, waiting for the early morning when they would be put back out to sea. Later on in the day, the boats would return with a fresh catch, ready for the beachside restaurants in the evening. There are a few cafes scattered up and down the sands and a couple of resorts spill sun loungers out onto the white beach.
The beach at Mararikulam is calm, relaxed and, when we visited in late February, very quiet! There were a few international tourists in the resorts and hotels but the beach was basically empty during the day. We have heard that it gets busy with locals escaping the bigger towns on the weekends but whilst we were there it felt like a secret little oasis.
During the day we would just find a spot to ourselves (not difficult), slap down our towels and head into the waters. The surf was strong but nothing as powerful as what we had experienced in Varkala, so swimming was great. We were joined in the breaking surf by herds of crabs who scuttled back and forward in sync with the rolling waves. It was so nice to swim in the sea and escape the scorching Indian sun.
When we needed a caffeine based pick me up, or a cheeky slice of cake we would walk to the lovely Peacock Art Cafe and indulge in some good strong French press coffees.
The beach also has a lot of friendly pups!
We would spend our afternoons wandering the sands, eating ice creams and generally enjoying a very relaxed beach life! As the day wound down we would settle into a spot on the sand, or a plastic chair at a cafe and watch the sun go down. The beach is westward facing so every night we would be treated to a spectacular sunset. The nearest land, if you look out from Mararikulam beach, is Somalia!
Sunsets at Mararikulam are a fiery daily treat
The town of Mararikulam is inland from the sea and stretches either side of the main road running along parallel to the coast. Full of small shops, family restaurants and quiet palm lined streets Mararikulam town is laid back in the extreme. Dotted along the coast road you will also find lots of pretty churches, a reminder of Southern India’s diverse religious makeup.
When evening rolled around and it came time to eat we would just head to one of the little eateries in town - the road set back from the beach is studded with small restaurants. Or, if we were feeling fancy, we would eat on the beach itself. Up and down the sands we found lots of seafood restaurants serving delicious fresh seafood curries on small plastic tables. We can especially recommend the prawn and mango curry from Sea Lap Beach Restaurant!
For a special treat one night we ventured to The Fisherman's Cafe. Judging by the fact that there was never a spare table from the moment we sat down to when we waddled off, it seemed to be the most popular place in town! We think every single traveller in Mararikulam was there. Amid citronella candles and with our feet in the sand we enjoyed a traditional Keralan whole baked fish dish called pollichathu.
If you are on a beach and not eating seafood what are you doing?!
Note - Google is listing this as temporarily closed, we don’t know if this is a mistake or if it has closed for the season. There are recent reviews showing so we hope it is still open! Please let us know in the comments!
We had an amazing couple of days in Mararikulam, relaxing and swimming in the sea. It seemed like one of those places on the cusp of being popular, like Karimunjawa in Indonesia or Koh Mook in Thailand. Right now Mararikulam is a laid back hidden gem; full of delicious food, cheap accommodation and a stunning beach. Honestly we are surprised this isn't more famous than Kollam beach or Varkala! We are so glad we took a gamble and went to see it when we did!
Getting to Mararikulam
Alleppey to Mararikulam
The easiest way to Mararikulam from Alleppey is by bus. They run very regularly from the bus station. Just head down and ask.
Buses in India are always fun, wherever they go
Alternatively you can go from the town itself, we caught the bus from here. Our guesthouse just said to flag down the bus and hop on, and this is exactly what we did!
The bus cost only 20 rupees each (£0.20!) and took about 30 minutes to the stop nearest our accommodation. It runs all the way up the road that runs parallel to the beach so just ask the driver to stop when you come up to wherever you are staying.
You can also take the train from Alleppey to Mararikulam, just make sure you time it correctly as there are limited trains that actually stop at the small Mararikulam station! It is also worth noting that the train takes a lot longer than the bus (for reasons, none of which we can explain).
From elsewhere
Mararikulam is located on the coast of Kerala and is connected to the rest of the south (and beyond) by the bus and train networks, there are many ways to get to Mararikulam if you are travelling from further afield:
Taxis To Mararikulam
You can easily arrange a taxi from the nearby cities and towns or Alleppey, Kochi / Cochin or even further afield ones like Trivandrum. You can have a look on 12go to arrange this or, if you are in Mararikulam, your accommodation can book it for you.
Check out 12go here.
Getting to Mararikulam by train
Mararikulam has a small train station serving the line between Trivandrum, Alleppey and Cochin. We used this to move up the coast to Cochin at the end of our beach time. It is, like always in India, a good idea to book you tickets in advance. The journey up the coast is well worth doing by train as the line runs through some picturesque towns and villages.
The trains are not too frequent as most will not stop at the small station but plough on through to the larger cities. You can check out the departure times on Google here.
Also, do not panic if you get to the small station and find no one there! We knew the departure time for our train to Cochin (Ernakulam really) and arrived 35 minutes early only to find an empty station and a closed ticket counter. The staff were very relaxed and came to open up about 15 minutes before the train arrived. If you are looking to purchase tickets in advance, try and time your visit to when another train is arriving to make sure someone is at the station!
Our tickets in general class from Mararikulam to Ernakulum station (The big station near Cochin) cost us 30 rupees each (around £0.30) and the journey took around an hour and a quarter. As with the bus (see below), the train will probably be taking you to Ernakulum, not Fort Cochin, so you will need to grab an uber / rickshaw from the station to the Fort.
Getting a bus to Mararikulam
From or to Mararikulam you can get the bus that runs up the coast between Alleppey and Cochin / Kochi / Ernakulam. The buses go all the way up the main road that runs set back from but parallel to the beach. Most of the buses north will take you into the Ernakulam area of Kochi rather than the tourist area of Fort Cochin, so you will need to transfer or jump in an Uber rickshaw.
For travel throughout Kerala you can use the Kerala State Road Transport Company (KSRTC) bus network, they go everywhere both within the state and it’s neighbours. Even if you cannot directly get where you want to go you will be able to get to a larger hub town and connect to the correct service.
You can use 12go to book your transport in advance. If you are coming in from Cochin or Trivandrum, check out the links below for the options:
We are not sure how up to date this timetable is!
Where to stay in Mararikulam
We stayed at what may have been one of our favourite accommodations in Southern India whilst in Maraikulam - Koshy’s Homestay
Koshy’s homestay sits on the white sand, just back from the beachfront. The rooms were massive and spotless with great showers and powerful air conditioning. We also had a big table and chairs set up on a veranda outside our room where we were brought our breakfasts. Speaking of which..
Probably the best feature of Koshy’s was the food. We had a deal that included breakfast and it was one of the best breakfasts we had in India! Everyday we would have dosa or Idli or some other south Indian treat delivered to our door in massive delicious quantities! We also had dinner cooked by our hosts one night and the grilled chicken was amazing. It was also very affordable!
The hosts were also fantastic, they helped find out the train times for us and gave us advice on our destinations as well as helping book a rickshaw to get us to the station on time.
We cannot say this is the best hotel in all of Mararikulam, we have literally only been once and stayed at one place, what we can say is that it was perfect for us and was well above what we expected for the price we paid. To book a stay click here
Mararikulam has lots of accommodation on offer and you can stay anywhere from a luxury resort to a homestay depending on your preference and budget. Check out our map below for all the accommodation choices:
Zoom out to see more accommodation options!
When to visit Mararikulam
November to February is the peak season for Mararikulam as the weather is clear and sunny without being too scorching. We visited at the end of the season in February and it was very quiet and very hot during the day.
The hot and humid season is March through to May and temperatures will soar during this time. It will also feel even hotter due to the humidity. Southern Indian summers are no joke so be prepared!
The monsoon season of June to October would actually not be a bad time to visit the beach. You have mostly sunny days with the occasional (dramatic) downpour to relieve the humidity. You would also get some spectacular sunsets!
Conclusion
We hope you read all this and decide to check it out for yourself. Mararikulam is a great example of the rewards to be had when you go, even just a little, off of the ‘normal’ trail. It is by no means undiscovered but, for now at least, it is uncrowded, unspoiled and might just be the quietest white sand beach in southern India.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Alleppey, the ‘Venice of the East’ - A gateway to the backwaters of Kerala
Alleppey is home to the famous backwaters of Kerala - a bucket list item and must visit destination for anyone travelling south India. Read our guide on all there is to know about visiting the ‘Venice of the East’ from how to stay on a houseboat, how to tour the backwaters and why there’s so much more to Alleppey city than just its famous waterways!
Alleppey or Alappuzha, is world famous for its beautiful green backwaters; a network of palm fringed canals that snake their way through the paddy fields of Kerala. The backwaters connect the town of Alleppey with smaller fishing villages and hamlets as well as the mighty Vembanad Lake.
Travelling on a boat through these ancient waterways feels as though you’ve stepped back in time, with sari clad ladies washing colourful clothing, small fishermen casting their nets and children cycling down the mud banks and levee’s. It's a world away from the frenetic energy and fast pace of India’s megacities.
This all being said, Alleppey is so much more than just its beautiful backwaters. The town is a charming mix of colonial architecture, seaside cafes and tranquil temples. We spent three fantastic days in Alleppey enjoying the laid back atmosphere, great seafood and even some delicious coffee.
Read our guide for everything you need to know about visiting Alleppey!
In this travel guide:
Visiting Alleppey as part of a longer tour of Kerala / South India
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
What to do in Alleppey?
Visiting the Alleppey Backwaters
Read any guide book or do a quick Google search on what to do in Kerala, and we can almost guarantee that the first thing that will pop up will be an image or recommendation to take a boat trip through the Alleppey or Keralan Backwaters. It’s cliche to say, but if you’re in south India, then a trip through the backwaters is an absolute must.
With its serene, tree fringed waterways and hundreds of picturesque wooden boats, there’s a reason why Alleppey is called the ‘Venice of the East’. The beautiful backwaters draw in thousands of tourists from India and the world over.
There are four main ways to visit the backwaters. These are:
The Alleppey Backwaters by houseboat
This is by far the most luxurious and most expensive option, but will be best for those who are seeking a little more comfort on their backwaters exploration.
The houseboats, or Kettuvallam as they are known, are traditional wooden boats, constructed from local bamboo, coconut fibres and wood. Their iconic bamboo thatched roofs, rise up in a peaked arch and cover the wooden deck. The Kettuvallam were originally used to transport goods throughout the waterways, but have since been converted to allow tourists to stay on board overnight with bedrooms, en-suite bathrooms, air conditioning and comfy seating areas.
These floating hotels travel up and down the canals and offer tourists the chance to experience a full day living on the waterways.
To book a trip on a houseboat in advance, check out the tour below which includes pick up and drop off in Kochi and an overnight stay on a houseboat.
Just a word of warning: the Kettuvallam boats are big and a lot of the canals in the backwaters are tiny. Therefore, taking a trip on a houseboat will mean you are restricted to navigating the larger waterways. This isn’t necessarily a problem, as the all of the Alleppey backwaters and Vembanad Lake are beautiful, but if you want to get closer to the action and explore more secluded backwaters, you will need a smaller boat.
This brings us nicely onto:
Exploring the Keralan Backwaters by Shikara boat (motorboat)
The Shikara boats are smaller, motorised wooden boats - think of a wider gondola with a thatched reed roof. The boats have plenty of seating and a motor at the back. These smaller boats travel up and down the main canals and through the smaller waterways offering tourists the chance to explore more of the backwaters than the larger houseboats.
You can take a Shikara boat tour from Alleppey town, or arrange a tour from Vembanad Lake. A Shikara boat tour is a great option if you are travelling with a group or a large family as they usually have seating for up to fifteen people on board.
If you’d like to book a Shikara boat tour in advance, then why not check out this boat tour below:
If you are staying on one of the larger houseboats, there is nothing stopping you from booking yourself onto a Shikara boat tour and spending some time exploring the smaller waterways, just ask your accommodation to arrange this for you.
There are also options to book a private Shikara boat, just ask any of the tour operators within Alappuzha to help arrange this for you.
Visiting the backwaters by motorised canoe / longtail boat
For those looking to explore as much of the local life as possible and get right amongst the canals and waterways we would advise the motorised longtail or canoe boats. They are smaller than the Shikara and have slightly less luxurious seating but they can fit down even the most ‘local’ of canals and are still motorised so you don’t have to propel yourself! They are also significantly cheaper than the other options, another factor in why we, a couple of backpackers, chose to explore this way!
We arranged our tour via Arbu’s Guesthouse who organised a for a tuk tuk to pick us up at 8am to take us to the local ferry pier in town and for us to join a tour.
Right at 8am on the dot, our tuk tuk arrived and we joined the early morning rush hour in Alappuzha. We reached the ferry pier and were greeted by our tour guide. He let us know that we had enough time to have a canalside chai before the local ferry arrived. Clutching our cardboard cups of hot chai, we sat on the edge of the canal watching as the locals plied their way up and down this busy lotus strewn waterway.
Before too long the calm was interrupted by the large local ferry, sputtering and coughing its way up to our pier. We jumped aboard the busy commuter boat, took our seats amongst the locals and chugged our way towards Vembanad Lake and the backwaters.
As we reached the lake, we pulled over at small piers to let passengers on and off. At one stop, a whole gaggle of school girls skipped off, each with matching pig-tails and ribbons. Their school run certainly beats a boring bus ride!
We eventually reached our boat stop, a small, concrete and wooden pier surrounded by palm and banana trees jutting out onto the lake. We disembarked on this picturesque pier and made our way up to the top of the bank. Walking along a one metre wide path on top of the levee, with the lake to the right of us and flooded rice paddies to the left, it felt as though we had stepped into a Ghibli film. We weaved our way amongst palm trees and small houses until we were finally ushered into a pretty garden. We had reached our breakfast stop.
Some of the Keralan houseboats look downright fantastical!
Our group sat down and out came plates piled high with upma (dried semolina cooked with nuts and spices), flaked coconut and bright yellow potato and chickpea curries. It was time to try a traditional Keralan breakfast. The curries clung to the upma and each mouthful was a tasty mix of sweet, and delicate spice. It was delicious!
After breakfast we continued our way on the levee path before reaching our moored longtail boats. Taking our seats, we set off down the narrow, palm lined canal.
The tiny waterway looked as though it was covered in a vibrant green carpet, as our boat navigated its way through the lotus leafs and lily’s that covered the whole waterway. It was like we were in a paint shop, looking at the whole palette of greens. Forest green next to emerald green, sea green next to khaki. There were so many shades of green on display right in front of our eyes.
We continued on down through the narrow waterways, driving under concrete bridges and past the small blooms of purple lotus flowers.
We eventually pulled over and the driver let us know it was time to try some local alcohol, the coconut toddy! A litre bottle would cost 300 rupees so between the six of us on the boat it cost only us 50 rupees each. After payment our boat driver returned with our plastic bottle filled with a white cloudy drink. The toddy is made from coconut sap and is often referred to as ‘coconut vodka’ by the locals. Our driver promised us that it was delicious to drink, but looking at the murkiness of the bottle, the whole boat was unconvinced. Even so, the bottle did the rounds and we each took a shot.
During our travels we’ve been lucky enough to sample a collection of ‘local’ drinks; from ‘laolao’ in Laos to ‘happy water’ in Vietnam. Despite being named different things, they all seem to taste the same - Super strong and fiery to drink, with a distinct “burning petrol” feel. We were expecting the same from the ‘coconut toddy’. We were very wrong! The drink was sweet and not too harsh, it was an easy shot to take. The sweet coconut seemed to give the toddy a subtle flavour that removed the roughness of the alcohol. It really wasn’t bad and we all regretted not buying a bottle each to enjoy after the tour.
Happy with our toddy, it was time to continue on with our boat trip. Our driver navigated our boat across large open lakes, through tiny waterways, and up small canals lined with houses. As we chugged along, we watched the locals stand knee deep in the water, washing their colourful clothing. Above us on the levees, children rode along on bikes and waved to us, whilst flocks of white egrets flitted from palm to palm. It was like a scene from a children’s book, with blue skies reflected in the water, whilst all around trees moved in the breeze. The backwaters of Alleppey truly are a natural wonder!
After a peaceful few hours navigating the water, it was time for our boat trip to end, and we moored up just outside the small lakeside house where we had our breakfast. The owner, a very friendly lady in a bright pink sari, welcomed us in and let us know we were in for a lunchtime treat. It was time for a Kerala banana leaf curry.
As we sat down, large banana leaves were handed out and a large pile of coarse Keralan ‘matta’ rice was placed in the centre of the leaves. These larger ‘matta’ rice grains have more bite than the usual basmati rice, and make the ideal accompaniment to curry.
Alongside the rice, dollops of different vegetable curries, a bright pink raita, fruit chutneys and a crisp poppadom were added. Our banana leafs assembled, it was time to dive in hands first. It was a mighty feast, messy but moreish. Each mouthful we took tasting different to the last as we tried each of the different curries in flavoursome combinations.
It was a mouth-watering meal, made better by the lovely owner who told us all about the ingredients and how the curries were cooked. It was a scrumptious feast to top an incredible day out on the water!
After our delicious banana leaf curry, it was time to retrace our footsteps and head back to town. Sitting down amongst the locals and other tourists on the local ferry, we weaved in and out of the wake of the large Kettuvallams, whilst all along the waters edge, local fishermen cast their lines. It was a beautiful sight and reminded us that the backwaters aren’t only an incredible tourist attraction, but a vital waterway connecting the villages and towns of Kerala together.
We had always wanted to visit the backwaters and this tour had been fantastic!
The cost for visiting the backwaters by longtail boat.
Our day out including the local ferry, breakfast, lunch and longtail tour cost us 1000 rupees each (£9.41 or $12.03). The tuk tuk to and from the pier to our guesthouse cost us 100 rupees each way.
The tour started at 8:00 am and we were back at the local ferry pier in Alappuzha town by 15:30 pm.
The main ferry pier in Alappuzha!
We booked this tour through our guesthouse, you can easily do this through your own accommodation or a tour agency in town.
If you’d like to book a trip in advance, why not check out this tour from Trip Advisor.
Exploring the backwaters by kayak
Another option to see the backwaters of Kerala is by kayak. Out of all the ways to explore the waterways, this will obviously be the most physically active. You can hire single or tandem kayaks, I would recommend a tandem if you are a couple. I traditionally take the role of navigator / photographer and John takes the role…engine, much to his delight! Taking a kayak would be a much more peaceful way to see the backwaters as you could navigate down even the smallest of canals, plus there’s just oars to push you along and no engine noise.
Booking a kayak tour of the Alleppey backwaters - Cost and times
The tours set off early morning or late afternoon, catching either the sunrise or sunset and avoiding the midday sun. We were quoted 1500 rupees each to do this by our accommodation, but I’m sure you could find it cheaper in the town so just shop around and don't forget to haggle.
To book a kayaking tour of the backwaters in advance, why not check out the tour below:
Our Kerala Backwaters Photo Gallery:
Alappuzha Beach
(Location)
The golden sands of Alappuzha Beach stretch away along the whole of the western edge of Alleppey town. In the middle of the beach, jutting out into the surf, are the rusted remains of the town's, 150 year old pier. The beach is surprisingly clean (certainly compared to Chennai beach) and you could easily find a spot to throw down your towel. For those who need shade there are parts of the beach that have palm trees to hide under.
We visited in February and the seas were very rough, so we weren't able to go for a swim, but on calmer days, we can imagine it would be a great place to spend a beach day.
During the day, apart from some fishermen tending to their boats or some friendly beach dogs, you’ll have the majority of the beach to yourself. As the sun goes down, the crowds appear as Indian families, tourists and couples head to the beach to enjoy the cooler evening air.
The beach faces West and has front row seats to watch the evening's fiery sundown show. Every evening we would head to the beach and find a spot to watch the sunset. We don’t know whether it's because we were reasonably close to the Equator or if there was some other scientific reason, but we’ve never seen the sun set as big or as round and red as we saw in Alleppey.
There are plenty of beachfront cafes and restaurants that line the beach (more on this later) for you to grab some food or drink.
Alappuzha Lighthouse
(Location)
At night as you walk through the town, you won't be able to miss the bright, shining light of Alappuzha’s lighthouse. Since 1862, this red and white striped lighthouse has been guiding ships and boats all along Alleppey’s shoreline.
Today, the lighthouse continues to operate but also gives tourists the chance to visit its small museum and climb to the top to of the tower get a birds eye view over the Arabian Sea.
Once you’ve bought your tickets, make sure you head into the building behind the ticket office for the museum. Inside you can learn about the lighthouses of Kerala, the history of how lighthouses operate and even get up close to the first revolving light in India. This revolving light hangs in the centre of the room and is made up of moving optic lenses that reflected the light of 9 coconut oil wick lamps. It is an impressive piece of kit and we loved that we could walk all around it as well as underneath it to really give us a sense of scale.
After the museum, cross over the small courtyard to the small door at the back of the lighthouse. The climb starts off quite easy as you climb a gentle staircase that spirals around the lighthouse's interior.
The final 10 or so steps are when things get a little trickier, as to reach the viewpoint at the very top of the lighthouse, you will need to climb up a vertical ladder and through a tiny opening at the top. It’s not a difficult climb but, did we mention that heat rises?! After a climb of 100 wooden stairs in the intense Indian heat, you can imagine how soggy we looked! Exiting the lighthouse (past the current revolving light) we stepped out onto the viewing platform and the cool sea breeze was very welcome!
The views from the top are spectacular, with a 360 degree platform that overlooks the seashore, beach and whole of Alleppey town. If you’re lucky and time the climb right, you’ll be able to watch one of the extremely long trains arrive or depart from Alleppey’s railway station. If you’ve travelled to India before, you know just how big the trains are here! It was a little hazy when we visited, but on a clear day you’d get amazing views over the canals and backwaters behind the town.
We visited the lighthouse first thing in the morning, right at its opening time (in fact we were such eager beavers that we were waiting outside the gates before the ticket man opened up), and had the lighthouse and museum all to ourselves. There is a large childrens play area surrounding the lighthouse, so on weekends, we presume it may get busy!
Entry fee: 50 rupees each for foreigners, and 10 rupees to take photographs with a camera.
Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00am to 11:45am and from 2:00pm to 5:30pm.
The lighthouse is closed on Mondays / during public holidays.
To climb the lighthouse you will need to remove your shoes - so don’t wear your best socks!
Alappuzha town
As with any town in India, you’ll never know what you’re going to find on a walk through Alappuzha’s bustling streets.
Alappuzha town is a hub of activity from dawn until dusk, the streets are filled with everything from piles of exotic fruit, baskets of fresh fish and mounds of spices. Navigating the streets is a fun game of intrigue and dodge as you move between rickshaws, wooden hand carts and buses, all of which dance and weave their way through the people, market stalls and streetside cows! As with most of India’s urban spaces, Alleppey is full of the chaos and colour that we love.
If you’re after street food, just head to any of the markets where you’ll find a plethora of stalls selling streetside chai, chaat, samosas and much much more.
There are also lots of temples, mosques and churches dotted around the town. If you do decide to visit these though, please be respectful and dress appropriately!
Where to eat and drink?
Alleppey is chock full of places to eat. From hole in the wall dhabas to seafront restaurants serving Western favourites and mocktails. Read on to find out where some of our Alappuzha favourites are:
The best restaurants in Alleppey
Sea Shore
(location)
Still dreaming about our delicious fishy feast we ate on the shoreline of Chennai, we knew we had to get our hands on more of the sea's bounty. The Sea Shore restaurant looked like the perfect place to indulge in our fishy fantasies.
Set high up on wooden stilts, just off of Alleppey’s beach, the restaurant offers all the Indian favourites as well as smoothies, sandwiches and fried noodles. On the menu though, our eyes were drawn to the fish thali.
The thali’s came out on two silver rectangular trays. In the centre sat a big pile of steaming white rice topped with a crispy poppadom, and surrounding this, small mounds of curry in every colour imaginable, it was like a painter's palette. As we dove in with our hands, more bowls of curry joined the table. We looked up and knew that we were both thinking the same thing. We had made the right decision!
Just some of the curries on our thali. It was a proper feast!
Rice and curry is always a firm favourite of ours, and a thali in India is no exception. Before us, we had something of every flavour and texture. From rich and creamy to salty, sharp and sour curries.Each mouthful was completely different from the next, as we picked up handfuls of sweet oily fish mixed with hot and fruity chutney, hearty dahl with citrusy raita and earthy beetroot curry with crisp poppadom. We absolutely love a meal where there’s so much choice before you and where each mouthful can be completely different from the last.
We had wanted a fishy feast and this definitely fitted the bill. Eating this thali was like a rollercoaster for our mouths and a meal we wouldn’t forget in a hurry (in fact it was so good, we headed here again for lunch on our last day in Alleppey)!
Rivalling even Chennai’s fishy offerings, we cannot stress how good the food was at this restaurant. If you’re in Alleppey do go, order the fish thali and we promise you, you won’t be disappointed!
Sea Bites Homely Food
(location)
Very similar to Sea Shore, the Sea Bites Homely Food restaurant gets another shout out for its local seafood dishes and cosy atmosphere.
The restaurant dishes up all the Keralan curry favourites all served on the traditional banana leaf plate.
We can highly recommend the grilled masala spiced fish. Succulent, sweet and packed with spice, it was everything we hoped it would be.
The restaurant is set in the small courtyard outside the owner’s house and only has a few tables so there may be a little wait to get a seat, but when you do you’re in for a treat!
Garden Cafe The Pepper Lounge
(location)
Full to the brim with green plants, the Garden Cafe served some of the best paratha we ate in the whole of our south India backpacking adventures.
We ordered paratha alongside a beef korma. The paratha was amazing! Alternating layers of crispy and chewy bread made the perfect spoon to scoop up the spiced, savoury, beef korma.
All the plants on display are for sale, so if you want a good meal and a green souvenir, this is the place to come. Unfortunately, there really is no need for us to carry a houseplant around with us on our backpacking adventure so we could only admire them!
Cafe Catamaran
(Location)
Cafe Catamaran is probably the most “upmarket” restaurant we found in Alleppey.
Set on the first floor of a pretty beachfront building, this trendy restaurant has open air seating with views directly over the golden sand of Alleppey Beach. Given its location and open terrace, it has front row seats to watch the sunset (for a full sunset show, check out the timelapse video above).
The restaurant serves all the classics from Indian favourites to pizza, pasta and salads and is open from brunch to late at night. As we’re backpacking and on a tight budget, we only ever had snacks and drinks.
We can especially recommend their strawberry milkshakes alongside some popcorn chicken, which made for the perfect sunset snacks.
Don’t judge us, sometimes you need some Western comforts in your life!
If you’re vegan, there are plenty of vegan options on the menu.
Hotel Jas
(Location)
From the outside this small hole-in-the-wall joint doesn’t look like much, but what its exterior lacks in looks, it makes up for in its food!
Serving fried fish, curries and paratha, this small restaurant served us some of the best beef fry we ate during our time in Kerala.
The beef fry we ate at Hotel Jas was delicious. Heavily spiced with masala mix, with a delicate, yet fragrant undertone from the curry leaf and coconut slices.It paired perfectly with the crispy, yet chewy paratha.
Kerala beef fry is a beef dish that’s slow cooked in advance and then re-fried to order over flame.
It was a cheap, filling and hearty meal costing only 240 rupees (£2.28 or $2.88) for a big pile of paratha and enough beef fry for both of us.
Reminder, in India a hotel doesn't necessarily mean somewhere where you can rest your head overnight, it can just mean a restaurant!
Canal Restaurant
(location)
We were recommended this small canal side restaurant by our guest house.
When we arrived, a little after lunch, they had sold out of almost everything, (always a good sign) so we opted for the only thing they had left, two plates of the chicken biryani.
What came out was two huge plates, piled high with steaming, spiced rice and speckled with layers of chicken and curry sauce. We could see why there wasn’t a lot of choice left at this restaurant as the biryani was delicious. The perfectly cooked rice had soaked up all the chicken-y flavours and spice of the curry. If you’re after good local food, the Canal Restaurant is a great shout. It is very popular so make sure you get there early!
Tip: If you’re in India and after a biryani joint, just look for the huge silver pots usually stored outside of the restaurant. This is where the biryani magic happens!
The best cafes in Alleppey
Cafe Beachaholic
(location)
Cafe Beachaholic is exactly the type of coffee shop you hope to find when backpacking India!
A hippy haven full of comfy chairs, colourful prayer flags and laid back acoustic guitar vibes. It was everything we hoped to find in India. Think Rishikesh meets with a reggae beach bar, and you get the idea.
Serving a selection of hot and cold coffees, teas, fresh juice and a small selection of baked goods, we spent a good few hours just chilling with an iced coffee and talking to the friendly owner.
The cafe also has a small stall selling homemade jewellery, scarfs, notebooks and other trinkets!
The cafe is an extremely relaxed affair, with a very chilled out atmosphere. That is if you’re not visiting the cafe during the neighbouring temple's annual festival! On our last day here, it was day one of the Sree Munnodi Devasthanam yearly temple festival, and instead of the quiet acoustic soundtrack we had on previous days, we had the temple loudspeakers pumping out very loud chanting, singing and music from next door! We weren’t complaining, it was just a very different vibe!
Cafe Paradiso Espresso Coffee Shop
(location)
This small canal side coffee shop serves great coffee alongside tea, juice, milkshakes and a small breakfast menu. With seats sitting directly above the busy canal in the centre of Alleppey, we spent a good while sipping on cappuccinos and watching the boating world go by. The cafe is just down the canal from the “main” pier in town, and so the waterway is a constant hub of activity, with local ferries and private shikara boats chugging past you in both directions.
The Chai Walah
(location)
We stumbled upon this small roadside cart after visiting the lighthouse. Even in the early morning sun (sometime after 9:00 am) we were already sweating profusely and were in dire need for a morning pick-me-up.
Specialising in all things tea (chai, black and green), the Chai Walah, served us up the best chai we had on the whole of our north and south India trip, in fact it was so good, we even had two cups. We’d recommend pairing a cup of chai with some of the spiced masala biscuits on offer. Super spicy from hot ginger, cardamon and other aromats, they were the perfect combination of crunchy, sweet and salty and paired excellently with the milky, spiced chai. We can’t say it was a healthy breakfast, but boy did it set us up for the day!
Where to stay in Alleppey?
Accommodation in Alappuzha Town / on Alleppey Beach
There are plenty of hostels, guesthouses and hotels within the town of Alleppey and all along the seashore.
We stayed in Arbu’s guest house which was the best of both worlds.
Located right in the heart of the town and close to lots of local eateries, it was only a short 15 minute walk to the beach. The guesthouse was extremely cheap and had everything we needed, with a comfy, basic en-suite room and balcony.
The owner Jibu was extremely helpful and recommended some great suggestions on where to eat and drink (see above) as well as booking us onto a fantastic backwater tour. You can book your stay here.
For a beachside break, we'd recommend checking out Zostel Alleppey. Located just over the road from the beach, this upmarket hostel is set around a small courtyard and offers dorm rooms, private en-suite rooms and a comfy common area to chill out in, all with beachside views! Book a stay at this Zostel here. We have stayed at many Zostels during our times in India and we have always had a fantastic stay!
Alleppey town has accommodation of every level of luxury, to look at all the accommodation choices available in and around Alleppey town and beach, check out the map below:
Staying on a Kettuvallam on the backwaters - a traditional stay on a houseboat
For those not on a backpacking budget, a stay on one of the traditional Kettuvallam is a must! These thatched roof houseboats offer beautiful rooms with views right out onto the water. Instead of being cramped up on the local ferry, you’ll get a whole boat to lounge out on as you float along the canals.
A stay on one of these houseboats will usually include lunch, dinner and breakfast (depending on the length of stay you opt for) and will give you a much longer experience of the backwaters than any day tour. We can imagine sunrise and sunset would be a spectacular sight from one of these houseboats!
Depending on your budget and level of luxury required, there are plenty of houseboats to choose from.
Check out the top houseboats available to stay in Alleppey here.
Hotels and resorts on Vembanad Lake
North east of Alappuzha, west of Kottayam and north of the backwaters lies Vembanad Lake. This freshwater lake is the largest in Kerala and connects the city of Kochi with the backwaters.
It is around this lake where you can find most of the high end hotels and resorts of Alleppey.
Check out the map below for all the resorts available to stay at and around Vembanad Lake - you will need to zoom out for most the options:
If you’re staying on or near Vembanad Lake, make sure you take a trip to the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary (location), a wildlife sanctuary with a walking trail and watchtowers to view the birds and animals of the area. If you have more time, another bird watching area within the lake is the Pathiramanal Island Bird Sanctuary (location). Located on the lake itself, you will need to arrange a boat transfer to the island, but once you’re there it’ll just be you and nature itself. Do some research before you go as the birds can be very seasonal.
How to get to Alleppey?
Betting to Alleppey by bus
If you’re travelling within Kerala, you can easily catch a local bus to Alapuzzha’s KSRTC bus station (location). These local buses are cheap, cheerful and connect the towns and cities within the state.
Travelling to Alleppey by train
Catching a train to Alleppey is by far the easiest way to get to the backwaters. With trains running almost every hour north to south, there are plenty of trains to catch.
The most popular train routes to get to Alleppey are Kochi to Alleppey, Varkala to Alleppey and Trivandrum to Alleppey.
Getting to Alleppey - private taxi
If you’re after more comfort, flexibility and privacy you could easily book a taxi transfer to Alappuzha. A taxi can be booked at your accommodation, at a travel agent or in advance via 12Go.
The most popular transfers to book are:
Kochi to Alleppey by taxi
Trivandrum to Alleppey by taxi
Flying to Alleppey
The nearest airport to Alleppey is Cochin International (COK) Airport. Offering flights to all the major cities of India as well as internationally, with routes serving London, Bangkok, Singapore, Dubai, Kuala Lumpur, Ho Chi Minh City and many more!
We’d recommend searching Kiwi to book your flights.
From Cochin International Airport you will need to transfer to Alleppey either by public transport (see details above) or by booking a taxi transfer straight to your accommodation in Alleppey.
There is also the option of flying into Thiruvananthapuram International Airport around 160 km away to the South.
Can I visit Alleppey and the Alleppey Backwaters in single a day?
India is a vast country and for those on a tight timeframe, you can easily visit Alleppey and the Keralan Backwaters within a day.
Most travellers visit Alleppey as part of a day trip from Kochi, but you could easily do this from Trivandrum or Varkala by catching an early morning train to Alleppey and then booking a return in the evening after you’ve visited the backwaters. In fact, on our tour, we met two skateboarders (make sure to check out their Instagram page, Keep Rolling as they’re doing some awesome work) who were doing just this from Kochi.
Alternatively if you want to book everything in advance and not rely on public transport you could consider a tour.
To book a tour of the backwaters in advance which will also include transport to and from Alleppey, check out the tours below from Get Your Guide:
Visiting Alleppey as part of a longer tour of Kerala / South India
If you’re interested in visiting the backwaters as part of a larger tour of Kerala and south India, then there are plenty of longer tours available that will take care of your accommodation and bring you to all the local sights.
Check out the tours available below:
Where to go next after Alleppey?
Depending on which way you’re travelling in south India there’s plenty of options on where to go next after your stay in Alleppey.
North up the coast - Alleppey to Mararikulam and Kochi
If you’re heading north, then you could hop on a local bus and travel the short distance up the coast to the small beachside town of Mararikulam. We were recommended this beautiful beach by Arbu’s guest house and were so glad we headed there. The beach is stunning and, when we visited, it was completely devoid of any crowds. We spent a couple of days there just enjoying the golden sands, watching the sunset from the shoreline and eating copious amounts of fish! It was perfect.
If you’ve had your fix on beaches, then you could easily catch the train and head north to Kochi. Full of fantastic food, pretty colonial architecture and its iconic Chinese fishing nets lining the coastline, Kochi is a fantastic city and is well worth a visit.
If you’re heading to Kochi you will need to book tickets to Ernakulam which is the name of the main city. From there you can catch local transport, taxi or rickshaw to the historic Fort Kochi district. The easiest way to get to Kochi is via train. Book your tickets here.
East into the hill stations - Alleppey to Munnar
The south Indian sun is oppressive, and the best way to escape its intense heat is to head east inland to Kerala’s hill country. The most famous hill station to visit is Munnar. Surrounded by vibrant green tea fields, waterfalls and hiking trails, Munnar is a nature lover's paradise.
To get to Munnar you will need to catch a local bus from Alappuzha bus station.
South towards India’s most southerly tip - Alleppey to Varkala and Trivandrum
If you head south from Alleppey you could easily visit Varkala, a beautiful beach lined with steep red cliffs. It’s a popular spot to escape to both for adrenaline junkies as well as seekers of beachside calm thanks to its surfing, paragliding, yoga and Ayurvedic spas. The easiest way to get to Varkala is by train. Book your train tickets here.
Only a little further south and also on the same train line as Varkala, is the bustling Keralan capital of Thiruvananthapuram (or Trivandrum for short). Offering a wealth of museums, beaches, excellent food and the magnificent golden Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, a trip to Trivandrum is well worth it, you can read our guide to the city here. The best way to get to Trivandrum from Alleppey is via train. With multiple trains a day leaving Alleppey. Book your train tickets here.
Why go to Alleppey
Alleppey was one of those little gems, a real treat that, as we delved deeper into the town, kept unravelling to give us more and more surprises! Most travellers head to the town and stay only one night, or even just as part of a day trip to visit the backwaters but there’s so much more to Alleppey.
Alleppey has charming streets, great food and loads of history. It rewarded our extended stay with more and more interesting sights, tastes and experiences. It is a South Indian town worth giving your time to.
Alleppey is also in the perfect position to be a stop on any trip through Kerala. The town is an obvious place to pause on a South Indian itinerary, lying as it does between Cochin (Kochi) and the Keralan capital of Trivandrum.
Alleppey deserves more than just a cursory trip to its backwaters. Do yourself a favour and come to Alleppey, enjoy the laid back atmosphere, friendly locals, fiery sunsets and all the beauty of the ‘Venice of the East’.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Varkala - A Mini Beach Break in Southern India
Varkala beach is one of South India’s best places for sun and surf. Check out our quick guide for recommendations of where to stay, what to do and what to eat! We had an amazing few days on this gorgeous stretch of coast, read on to find out what we got up to!
Anyone who has travelled India knows that calm is a rare commodity. Peace and quiet should be sought out and cherished during any Indian adventure. In our time in southern India we had, so far, spent all of our time in megacities and towns - not exactly chilled out oases! We love the beautiful chaos of Indian cities. We had had an amazing time in Chennai, Pondicherry and Trivandrum but now, as we moved on up the western coast we were looking to find a little bit of calm. We headed for the cliffs and beaches of Varkala!
In this blog (skip ahead if your a busy person):
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Varkala, what it is and where to find it?
Varkala is an oasis of a place, a long sliver of beach and rocky cliffs that cling to India’s south west coast. Located a short drive from the Keralan capital of Trivandrum, Varkala is a very popular getaway for both international and Indian tourists.
We were in Varkala to unwind. We had had packed our days in Chennai, explored all over Pondicherry and crammed in as much as possible to Trivandrum. Varkala was going to be our time to chill, eat nice food, relax in cafés and enjoy some sunsets.
We checked into our gorgeous accommodation - Molly’s Hostel. Despite some underwhelming pictures on the booking website this was such a cute place to stay. With hammocks, shady gardens, board games and all manner of hostelly (we know, not a word!) flourishes.
The hostel itself was a converted beach house and was light and airy. We had a private double room with an en-suite bathroom (we know, we know, not very backpacking budget but hey), and it was lovely. The hostel had nice common areas, helpful staff and offered loads of activities. If you were travelling solo there was always people around to chat to and the hostel did a great job corralling people and organising outings for them. Also, and perhaps most importantly for us, there were cute dogs!
There were lots of chilled out common areas to unwind in after a day at the beach.
Molly’s Hostel was set down a residential road about 10 minutes off of the quiet end of the beach. This was perfect for us as we were close enough to the town and beach whilst also being far enough away not to be bothered at night.
We were away from the main drag of beachfront shops as well as where most of the accommodation is located, but we liked this. It meant that we could get some cheaper food from the town and had no hassle on the beach. The main area also wasn’t really very far away, maybe 15 minutes down the beach from us, so it wasn’t much of an effort to get there when we wanted to.
Check out the end of this article for more on the accommodation choices in Varkala.
For those after a spiritual retreat, there are plenty of yoga schools, craft classes, spas and meditation centres all along the cliffs and town of Varkala. All around the town and backstreets you can find adverts for Ayurvedic centres, in the main strip you can find a variety of massage specialists as well!
We spent our days in Varkala in a relaxing loop of wandering to the beach, finding a nice local lunch and then watching sunset from the cliff top cafés before going off for dinner.
Varkala Beach
Varkala beach is massive and, when we visited in February, it was very easy to get a stretch of the sand all to yourself. The beach is very striking as it is sandwiched between the sea and massive towering red cliff faces. The beach faces out towards the West so enjoys fantastic sunsets.
We did say the sunsets were spectacular!
The ‘main’ strip of Varkala, you can find it here on a map, is to the north of Molly’s Hostel and is considerably busier than the southern beach. Around this area, known as ‘Varkala Cliffs’, you will find most of the tourist bars, gift shops and restaurants. There are plenty of cliff side eateries and bars to sample and hop between. If you are looking for beachwear or souvenirs this is also the best place to come. For those looking for Ayurvedic treatment or massage with a view, there are plenty to choose from right on the cliffs edge.
The beach in this area is very busy and not the cleanest. We would recommend, for those looking to swim and sunbathe, going south away from the crowds. Away from the main stretch of the beach you can explore a more secluded bit of sand!
Essential information about Varkala beach:
There is nearly no shade! The beach itself has no, or very few trees and the cliffs do not provide any cover. If you are one of those strange lizard-folk who can lie about in the sun all day this might not bother you, but if like us, you look like you have lobster DNA, it is more of an issue! Some of the cliff top cafés and hotels have beach loungers, deckchairs and shades to rent, but do not skimp on the suncream!
There are no lifeguards for the majority of the beach. Swimming is entirely at your own risk. The currents when we were visiting (February) were very strong. The waves were often double our height and, when they caught us, it was like being in a washing machine. We are quite strong swimmers and this was ok for us but, if you are visiting with children or are not confident in the water, you may want to check the tides / season.
Surfing at Varkala beach
In the right season, Varkala is a very popular surf spot, there are surf camps up and down the beach offering accommodation and lessons. We were recommended one by one of our Spiti Valley companions:
The surf season for Varkala depends on your skill level (ours is pretty much non existent outside of one lesson in Batukaras.) Thanks to Surf Atlas for the information below!
Beginner - November to February
Intermediate / advanced - October to March
Advanced (with a likelihood of rain) - June to August
Paragliding Varkala
One of the most famous things to do on the beach in Varkala is paragliding, you can float all the way down the cliffs from one end to the other. There are operators all over Varkala and your accommodation can help you book one. Just check for reviews online before you fly! It was a little outside our budget so we kept our feet on the ground, but it was really nice to watch the paragliders float by from the cliff side cafés.
Not going to lie, this looks like an amazing way to see sunset!
Eating and drinking in Varkala
Our favourite restaurants:
When our stomachs demanded us give up our beach side lounging we would wander off in search of food. You can find plenty of restaurants both on the main cliff strip and in the town itself.
We had some fantastic lunches at the Vinayaka Vegetarian restaurant, where we were served Keralan rice and curry on silver thali trays. The fat Keralan rice grains perfectly soaking up all the delicious curry sauces. This was our favourite kind of Keralan restaurant, no nonsense, tasty and very cheap. The vegetable thali here only cost 90 rupees per person (around £0.90)!
For dinner we hopped between bougie cliffside meals (more on this later) and eating in the town. We had an especially delicious fish feast at Chimney Restaurant. This slightly fancier restaurant had a great seafood menu at reasonable prices. We loved the two curries we had here, one with locally caught fish in a spicy, sharp sauce and the other with chicken cooked village style. We are not totally sure what village style entails, but it was delicious! The restaurant was busy with families, locals and tourists and had a great atmosphere and friendly helpful staff.
Our favourite cafes:
We have alluded to, hinted at and outright mentioned our favourite Varkala based activity throughout this article: the cliffside cafés . Two cafés in particular:
Cafe Trip is Life
(location)
Located a short walk from our hostel, this upscale café / restaurant straddles the cliff’s edge in a perfect position for sunset views. We loved sitting here in the late afternoon and watching the sun dip down. The café offers a large menu from curry to pasta as well as small plates, sharers and lots of non alcoholic drink choices. We loved their mojitos, even without the booze!
Cafe Trip is Life is a little more pricey than eating in the town. We would recommend it more for the atmosphere and drinks than the food. When the sun goes down the cliffside garden lights up with strings of fairy lights, it is a very pretty café! It also seems to be very popular with Indian Instagrammers, during the sunset there was nearly a queue for the best cliffside spot!
You can also access the café from the beach so there was always a temptation to escape the sun and indulge in some sugary iced goodness!
Café Sarwaa
(location)
Another cliffside gem, Café Sarwaa was probably our favourite place to hang out in Varkala. Great coffee, chic bohemian décor and a fantastic view, what more could you want?
You cannot beat a mojito, even without any booze!
We ate everything from breakfasts to dinners here, had starters before heading off into town or just treated ourselves to supper with a view. The fried samosas were great and the Keralan beef curry with paratha was incredibly yummy. We also have to give a special mention to the delicious banana pancakes served with ice-cream and caramel sauce.
The whole place has a very chilled out relaxed vibe. With people set up for the day reading, playing games or just lounging around, it felt like the backpacker hub of Varkala.
There is access to the beach via a very steep staircase and it made an excellent base if you wanted to pop out for a swim in between coffees.
There is also accommodation available onsite. We didn't stay there but were a little jealous when we looked it up! Have a look for yourselves here.
This isn't an action packed blog, we didn't do a whole lot of anything in Varkala other than unwinding and relaxing, but sometimes (especially in India) that is just what you need to do! Varkala is a charming town with pretty streets, a fantastic, unique beach and plenty of food and drink options. It was just what we needed, right when we needed it!
How to get to Varkala
Taxi from Trivandrum
We had decided to splash the cash and arrived by taxi from Trivandrum. The fare was only around 1600 rupees (about £16.00) and the journey took around an hour and a quarter. We booked this in person with a driver. If you want to pre-arrange a taxi you can do this (at a cost) here.
Train
Varkala does have a train station as well, we used it later on to get to Alleppey and its famous backwaters. The train is definitely a cheaper option but book in advance as the tickets go quickly! You can have a look on 12go for times and tickets. The train station links to Trivandrum in the south and up to Kochi in the north. Both cities have airports!
Bus
There are quite a few bus services that will take you to Varkala, both from Trivandrum and further afield. From Trivandrum head to the central bus station and ask for the schedule.
For routes from further afield check out 12go for your options:
The train and bus stations are pretty much next to each other in the northwest of the town (location). The bus and train stations are around a 35 minute walk from the beach but there are always rickshaw taxi’s waiting.
Where to stay in Varkala
Being a pretty beach town only an hour out of the state’s capital, Varkala has plenty of hotels, hostels, guesthouses and resorts to choose from. From high end luxury to budget friendly simplicity, there is accommodation to suit everyone in Varkala.
As we have mentioned above, we had a fantastic stay in a private room at Molly’s Hostel and can thoroughly recommend it! If you want to check it out or book a stay, click here.
If you are looking for a yoga retreat, there are plenty to choose from along the beach. Have a look here for some of your options.
For all the other accommodation choices available in Varkala, from hostel to resort, check out our map below:
When to visit Varkala
The general consensus for the best time to visit Varkala is between March and October. This should give you clear dry days with cooler evenings. We visited just before this in February and it was swelteringly hot with rougher seas. Not a deal breaker and the accommodation was cheaper in the off season, but definitely worth considering!
How long should I stay in Varkala?
We stayed for 3 nights (4 days) and this was perfect for us. It was out of season for a beach town and the sea was quite rough. If you were in the correct season, or fancied some surfing or yoga, you could easily spend longer than we did in Varkala. We also did not venture much outside of Varkala, there is a nearby national park that we didn't manage to work into our schedule. If you were looking for a base in the south you could use Varkala to explore Trivandrum and the national parks nearby.
If you are really strapped for time you could take a day trip out to Varkala. You can arrange day trips either from Trivandrum city itself or Kollam beach. Check out the link below for some ideas.
Is Varkala worth it? Should I just go to Goa?
Oh the questions we have to include on this blog to get noticed by search engines…. We loved our time in Varkala. We spent 3 nights in this little beachside town and had a great experience. Given its location, Varkala is an easy and worthy addition to any southern Indian itinerary, sandwiched between the Keralan capital of Trivandrum, Kochi and the popular backwaters of Alleppey, Varkala is a great little beach break in the midst of your Indian adventure.
Varkala was also a great place for backpackers, with lots of cheaper accommodation and things to do within walking distance. In Varkala we weren’t beholden to any taxi mafia or locked into resort prices and could just enjoy the beach for free with good cheap food. Varkala also has a burgeoning party scene, up on the main strip and beaches to the north.
We cannot really compare it to Goa as we skipped the more popular destination. From our understanding Goa is busier with more resorts and is generally more built up. Varkala is smaller (obviously, it is a town not a state!) and outside of one tourist focused strip, is less ‘holidayfied’. We cannot tell you which is ‘best’ but can say we loved our time there.
Thanks for reading
John and Ellie
#adventuresofjellie
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24 Hours in Trivandrum
Kerala’s capital of Trivandrum makes for a fantastic stop on any south India itinerary. Read all about what we got up to in 24 hours in this city, from visiting the beautiful, golden Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple to the red bricked Napier museum. Read our guide for everything you need to know about visiting Trivandrum, from how to get there, what to do and where to stay!
Trivandrum or Thiruvananthapuram if you have the time, is the capital of Kerala, south India. This southern city is frequently overlooked in favour of the beaches of Varkala and Goa or the temples of Mysore but it is definitely worth your time to explore!
Located just after the south western tip of India, Trivandrum is the last major city on the south coast. If you set out from the coast you wouldn't hit land again (barring a lucky marooning in the Seychelles or the Maldives) until Madagascar or Tanzania! The city has a famous mix of British colonial and traditional Indian architecture and a vibrant history of artists and clashing cultures.
From great parks and temples to lively coffee houses and restaurants Trivandrum was an unexpected delight.
In this guide:
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24 hours in Trivandrum - What did we do?
We had arrived on an overnight bus after an amazing (if extended) stay in Pondicherry. We were in need of showers and pretty much clueless of what we should or could get up to in Trivandrum. We checked into our (slightly bougie), hotel the Arkhil Classic, rinsed off the grime of a 12 hour bus trip and headed out into the Keralan capital.
Napier Museum
After some Google based research we headed off to the iconic Napier Museum. It was a hot day so a spell in a shady park and museum sounded perfect to us. The museum can be found here on a map, we got there from our hotel via a cheap Uber rickshaw.
Sat amongst flower beds and topiary in the grounds of the Trivandrum Zoological Park the Napier Museum is a curious building, a mix of European style brickwork and far eastern flourishes. Wikipedia calls this style “Indo-saracenic”, but to us clueless visitors we just thought it looked amazing! The roof sprouts minarets, towers and gothic arches and the brick walls are inlaid with geometric shapes. Wooden supports are carved with creatures from Hindu mythology whilst below the formal gardens have a decidedly… British feel, it must have been the bandstand!
The museum building reminded us of the RAMM museum of Exeter mixed with the Brighton Pavilion. This shouldn't have been surprising as, whereas the RAMM and the Pavilion are English buildings with Indian influences, the Napier Museum is an Indian building, with English influences!
Inside the museum was a treasure trove of exhibits. Everything from Javanese puppets, trombones and devotional statues to chariots and pulpits crowded the museum's walls, floors and galleries. The huge wooden vaulted ceiling high above us was painted with golden stars and colourful squares. Trivandrum is famous for artistry and the museum is a wonderful showcase of its art and history.
The entrance fee to the Napier museum was 100 rupees each (around £1.00). The museum is open between 10am and 4:30pm daily.
The museum isn't huge and you can easily wander around it in under an hour. However if you have a guide and are interested in learning more about the exhibits you could easily spend a lot longer here.
The carvings on the wooden chariot were amazing!
If you are interested in a tour of Trivandrum get your guide offer a half day tour or a full day tour. Both of these tours include the Napier museum.
The Thiruvananthapuram Zoological Park
After wandering the galleries of the Napier Museum we came back out into the sunlight and manicured gardens of its surrounding parklands. The park around the Napier museum makes up a part of the larger Zoological Gardens of Trivandrum.
Right next to the Napier Museum is the park's impressive bandstand. Built alongside the museum the bandstand has a long history of use from colonial through to modern times. When we were wandering in the park there were sadly no performances going on, but if you check online you can find out when / if the bands are playing.
When we visited the flowers were in full bloom with colours bursting out of every carefully kept hedgerow. White egrets (yes we had to google what they were), pecked around in the shade of topiaried trees. India does its city parks very well, they are a much needed respite from the heat and chaos of an Indian city and seem to be very loved and respected.
There are lots of official stalls selling refreshments throughout the park. Next to the main entrance, near the Napier museum, there are a collection of stalls selling snacks and (for some reason) toys.
There is also a small art gallery near the entrance, the Raja Ravivarma Paintings Art Gallery. Unfortunately, the gallery was closed for lunch when we visited. Let us know in the comments what it is like if you go!
The zoological part of the Zoological Park (try saying that quickly) is one of India’s oldest Zoo’s. There is debate in fact to say that it is the oldest formal zoo in Asia! Founded out of the then ruler’s personal menagerie and formalised under the British, the Zoo opened in 1857. The zoo features monkeys, pelicans, giraffes, lions, tigers, elephants and many more animals from across the globe.
The zoo portion of the Zoological Park is open between 9am and 5:15pm every day
Tickets cost 200 rupees for adult foreigners (100 for children). For Indian nationals it is only 30 rupees for adults and 20 for children
Fun Fact - due to the group discounts available at the zoo; for the price of my and Ellie’s entrance you could, if you were Indian, bring in 35 students and 2 teachers to the zoo!
Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple
After our museum and park meanderings we hopped back in another black rickshaw Uber and headed to perhaps, Trivandrum’s most iconic landmark. We could tell when we were drawing near, as the road traffic swelled and the pavements were thronged with pilgrims, we were approaching the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple.
The Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple is built in honour of Vishnu, in fact it is seen as one of Vishnu’s sacred seats in southern India. The very name of the city, Thiruvananthapuram, translates from Tamil (and Malayalam) into “City of Ananta” Ananta is the name of one of the many forms Vishnu takes.
The temple itself is jaw-dropping. A massive stepped pyramid inscribed carved and decorated with hundreds, maybe thousands, of figures, all in ivory stone that seems to glow golden in the sunlight. It is an incredible sight.
Sree Padmanabhaswamy is such a holy place that only practising Hindu’s may enter the temple itself and even then they must be specially dressed. Photography is not allowed up close to the temple but the friendly security officers were very kind and polite and showed us where we could get some lovely photos from.
Even if you only had a spare hour or so between trains in Trivandrum and you could only go and visit one thing, we would completely recommend coming to the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple, it is just incredible!
You can find the temple here.
Indian Coffee House Maveli
(Location)
Anyone that knows us knows we love, or maybe even require, coffee. During our time in the south we had developed quite a taste for Indian style coffee. From the Chennai Filter coffee to the street side rocket fuel of Pondicherry we have grown to love the Indian way of the bean.
Trivandrum was no exception and luckily for us there was a famous coffee joint right outside the bus terminal. The Indian Coffee House Maveli is housed in a bizarre building, a spiral of red and white bricks spins upwards from the streetside. Inside retro, almost diner-style booths line the walls. The coffee is just what we needed after a 12 hour bus ride, sweet, laced with subtle spiced and STRONG. The coffee house also serves food and snacks, which all looked lovely!
As the bus terminal is pretty much opposite the train station and the coffee shop is next to the bus terminal….It is pretty much inevitable that you will find yourself tempted inside its strange walls on your trip through Trivandrum.
Other things to do in Trivandrum
We did not have long in Trivandrum but we were there long enough to realise that we were not, in fact, there for long enough! Did that make sense?
There is loads more to do in Trivandrum than we managed to fit into our time. There are hundreds of famous cafes, restaurants and walla’s to munch through, dozens of beautiful temples to explore and a wealth of heritage and museums to peruse, not to mention art galleries and all the shopping the Keralan capital boasts!
Here are just a few ideas for other things to do:
Kanakakkunnu Palace
(Location)
Right nearby to the Napier museum and the Zoological Park, the Kanakakkunnu Palace was sadly closed when we visited.
The palace and gardens are, like the Napier museum, a strange and beautiful mix of colonial and Indian architecture. The palace and grounds hold various exhibits and displays throughout the year, including the All India Dance Festival!
Trivandrum’s Beaches
Kerala is synonymous with beaches, second only to Goa in sand based Indian fame. The Keralan capital has large stretches of beach lined coast running up the coast.
Just north of the airport you have the Shangumugham, Kannanthura and Vettukadu beaches. To the south you have Kovalam beach with its famous red and white lighthouse.
These beaches are great for watching the sun go down and come alive with vendors and people after dark.
Museums and galleries in Trivandrum
Trivandrum is and has always been a hub for artists. As such it is well supplied for art galleries. You have the Raja Ravivarma Paintings Art Gallery (location) we missed out on in the Zoological gardens as well as the Indian collections of the Sri Chitra Gallery (location) and the Bhavageetham Art Gallery (location).
For museums you could check out the Keralam Museum of History and Heritage (location) for a glimpse into 3000 years of Keralan history. If three thousand years still seems too recent, you could look into the Natural History Museum (location) LINK - Or, at the other end of the scale, you could visit the Kerala Science and Technology Museum (location).
If you want to cram as much into your time as possible we would recommend checking out the tours available in Trivandrum. Get Your Guide runs lots of experiences in the city, everything from food tours to temple hopping! Check them out here:
There is so much to explore in Trivandrum, this guide can only scratch the outside of the beginning of the surface!
Getting to and from Trivandrum
Trivandrum is a natural transport hub and a fantastic starting or stopping off point for southern Indian adventures. As the capital of the state of Kerala Trivandrum is well connected by train, bus and air with the rest of India and the world at large.
Trivandrum by bus
Public bus
Trivandrum has a massive busy state bus terminal serving the Kerala State Road Transit Company - KSRTC and other state bus companies. This bus terminal will be where you arrive if you have taken a public bus from pretty much anywhere. It will also be where you leave from if you are going pretty much anywhere in the state by public bus. You can book a space on the public buses on the bus themselves (for shorter journeys) or at the bus station in advance.
The bus terminal can be found here.
Private bus
You can book on the more fancy private bus routes via travel agents, bus booking app such as Redbus and Abhibus (with an Indian sim or eSIM ) or via 12Go. These buses will take you pretty much anywhere in the whole of India (provided you don't mind a long journey).
The private buses tend to be a little more comfortable than the public ones and will generally have air conditioning. On the longer routes you can usually book sleeper buses with lie down beds! Just be careful when booking, the seats shown next to each other are actually one double bed!
We arrived in Trivandrum after a long overnight bus from Pondicherry, we were very glad of the little double bed cubicle we had to relax in for our 12+ hour journey!
The private buses tend to cost considerably more than the public ones and may have strange pick up / drop off points so make sure you have downloaded all the maps you need in advance!
Trivandrum by train
As the capital of Kerala, Trivandrum is the hub for several long distance and intercity lines. The Trivandrum Central Railways Station is Kerala's busiest train station and can get you anywhere from Mangalore and Bangalore in the south to all the way to New Delhi in the north or even all the way to Gulwahati and Silichar (this is the 28th longest train route in the world apparently!). In short, if you want to get about by train in the south, Trivandrum is a great hub or connection point.
Trivandrum Central Railway station can be found here.
You can book train tickets online with IXIGO (if you have an Indian SIM) via 12Go, or by going in person to the station. Just be aware that the tickets for 1st, 2nd and seating classes all sell out very quickly. If you are going on a longer journey book well in advance!
Trivandrum by taxi
There are many taxi and car services to get you to from or around Trivandrum. We used ride hailing apps (Uber mainly) to get around within the city (and further afield see later!), as they are safe, negotiation and scam free as well as avoiding any mistranslations with destinations.
Uber is cheap in trivandrum and easily the quickest way around the city. For those without an Indian SIM or an eSIM there are plenty of street taxis and rickshaws you can flag down, just agree on a price beforehand!
We actually used Uber to get to our next destination after Trivandrum - Varkala. Our hostel in Varkala was a long way from the train station and for a few pounds extra we could get an Uber door to door! It was not a particularly thrifty decision (around £16.00 v.s £10-11 for a train to Varkala and a rickshaw to our hostel) but sometimes you need to prioritise your own time!
Trivandrum by air
Trivandrum International Airport has services running from worldwide destinations including Singapore, Sri Lanka, Bahrain and Dubai as well as many more. This means that it is easy to link a flight from any of these major hubs to get to or from Trivandrum.
There is also a domestic terminal serving locations all across India.
To have a look at flights you can check out Expedia or 12Go.
Where to stay in Trivandrum?
When we visited Trivandrum we had limited time and one of us (guess which) was recovering from a nasty bout of man flu. We wanted somewhere comfortable after a twelve hour bus ride and somewhere we could easily get to and away from.
The Akhil Classic is not somewhere we would normally have stayed on our backpacking adventures but it was completely perfect for our short sojourn in Trivandrum. Located right near to both the Train station and KSRTC bus terminal it had large, comfy air conditioned rooms. It was a little bit of much needed luxury. It also had a seriously good restaurant attached that served a brilliant Biryani. Breakfast was also included and was served from the terrace high up above. We literally shared our brekkie with a hawk one morning!
Our breakfast companion!
Check out the Akhil Classic and other Trivandrum options on our handy map below.
Trivandrum - should you go?
umm….YES! If you are on a backpacking trip, touring the south or just have an urge to do things differently, Trivandrum is a great place to explore for a day or two. You can use it as a junction or a base for exploration throughout the south as it has such good transport links.
We found ourselves in Trivandrum at the ‘hinge’ of our southern Indian adventure, we had worked our way down the south eastern coast and Trivandrum provided the perfect break point from which to head north along the west coast. You can use Trivandrum to go inland to the temples of Madurai or explore the hill stations at Wayanad, Ooty, Coorg and Munnar. You can (like us) go up and visit the beaches of Varkala and the backwaters of Alleppey,
Wherever your adventure takes you, it can begin in Trivandrum.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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A Guide To Pondicherry - Pastel Colours and Pastries
The south Indian city of Pondicherry (or Puducherry) is famous for its beautiful French colonial architecture, pretty boulevards and cafe culture. Read our complete guide to getting the best out of this little slice of France in India. We cover everything from how to get to Pondicherry, to what to do, day trips and the best restaurants, cafes and accommodation.
Pondicherry is like the Mediterranean has met with the Bay of Bengal. A curious mix of white, mustard yellow and ochre architecture sitting alongside the rainbow vibrancy of Indian temples. As you walk through the heart of Pondicherry’s White Town, passing by its pastel coloured mansions, wooden shuttered windows and balconies draped in pink bougainvillaea, it will feel as though you’ve taken a wrong turn somewhere in your southern India trip and somehow ended up on the French Riviera.
Pondicherry or Puducherry, makes for a fantastic stop on any southern India trip. We had a great time exploring this beautiful town, eating many delicious pastries, sipping coffee with the locals and enjoying the warm sea breeze.
Pondicherry is a town that still retains its colonial charm, yet mixes this with the unique kaleidoscopic, frenetic energy of a modern Indian city.
Read our bumper guide for everything you need to know about visiting this amazing southern Indian city.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
In this travel guide:
Where is Pondicherry / Puducherry?
Pondicherry, also known as Puducherry or Pondy (by the locals) is located on the Coromandel coast of south India in the state of Tamil Nadu. The town stretches away in a semicircle off from the Bay of Bengal.
The history of Pondicherry
The city has had a turbulent history with the European powers of the Portuguese, Dutch, French and British all vying for control during the Colonial period. The Portuguese were the first to settle in 1523 and held power over the city for almost a century. After the Portuguese were asked to leave, the French were next to take control in 1663. In 1674, the governor of the French East India Company, François Martin took the lead and planned to turn Pondicherry from a small fishing port to a flourishing trade centre. This was all going well until the Dutch invaded and took control for four years. Eventually the French regained the town following the signing of the Treaty of Ryswick between France and the Netherlands in 1699. After the treaty there was a period of French expansion, until the British came along and thought, “hey we’d quite like this” and so began a repetitive tale of war, treaty, handover of power, war, treaty, handover of power. In 1816, the French eventually regained full power of Pondicherry, and kept control of it until they handed back the city to an independant India in 1954.
The White Town (French Quarter) is still full of French influenced architecture, tree lined boulevards, churches and cafes.
Today, Pondicherry is a vibrant town, a mixing pot of old meeting the new, with relics of the town's colonial past intertwining with modern India. It's a city that draws tourists from all over the world, yet still retains its Indian heart and identity.
How to get to Pondicherry?
The city of Pondicherry is extremely well connected with links to the rest of Tamil Nadu as well as to the neighbouring states of Kerala and Karnataka. Getting to the city by public transport is very easy. Read on to find out how!
By bus
Travelling by bus to Pondicherry will be the easiest way for you to get to this pretty coastal town. There are two types of buses you can choose from:
Local buses
If you’re travelling to Pondicherry from elsewhere in Tamil Nadu, catching a local state bus will by far be the cheapest way for you to get to the city. These local buses are very basic with no air conditioning and with three seat benches behind the driver, and two seat benches on the other side. The windows and doors will be open so that you can catch the breeze. These buses run all over the state of Tamil Nadu linking the towns and cities together.
We caught one of the state buses that run from Chennai’s CMBT bus station all the way to Pondicherry and the four hour plus bus journey cost us 190 rupees each (£1.82 or $2.28). On longer distances the buses will usually stop for rest breaks. If you do stop, we wholeheartedly recommend picking up some samosas. Super cheap at usually around 10 rupees per samosa, they make for the perfect bus snack!
Portable and moreish, the best kind of bus snack!
The easiest way to purchase tickets is on the local bus itself. Just head to the bus station (if you’re in Chennai you need the CMBT bus station) and look up at the departure boards or bus windscreen for the correct bus.
Once on the bus, put your large bags in the space next to the driver or if this is full, ask the bus conductor where to put your bags and take a seat. When it's time to leave, the bus conductor will come to you and ask you where you’re going and give you a ticket to buy. We’ve always found the bus conductors to be super friendly, just ask them to let you know when you have to get off and they will almost always help you.
For those travelling within the state, you’ll almost certainly be dropped off at Pondicherry’s state bus terminal (location). From here it's about a 30 to 45 minute walk to the White Town (French Quarter) or a short 10 minute rickshaw ride.
Just a word of warning - Indian bus terminals are extremely busy and can be very overwhelming if it's your first time travelling by bus. We’d recommend just going with the flow and double checking with everyone that you’re on the right bus. Don’t worry we’ve had plenty of times where we’ve sat down and got settled, only to be told to get off and board another bus. Like all things in India just go with the chaotic flow and it’ll all work out in the end!
Private buses
If you’re travelling from further afield and are looking for a more luxurious way to travel with comfier seats and air-conditioning, then you’ll need to book yourself a ticket on a private Volvo bus. These private buses run routes across different states, linking the sub-Indian continent together. There are different types of buses with sleeper berths to seats
You can book these tickets in person, at a travel agency, via the Abhibus or Redbus app (if you have an Indian sim or eSIM ) or in advance via 12Go.
When booking the tickets just make sure you pay attention to the pick up and drop of locations as these will rarely be in the state bus terminal. When it was time to leave Pondicherry, we took a very comfy overnight sleeper bus from Pondicherry to Kerala’s capital city, Trivandrum.
Although the ticket said the departure point was outside a travel agency next door to the bus station, we didn’t actually end up boarding the bus there. Instead we were bundled into a small mini bus, driven to the outside of the city (about an hour away) and dropped at the side of the road, given the only instructions that the bus south would arrive in 20 minutes or so. True to form it did arrive, but we did have an anxious wait with just our bags in the pitch black on the side of a very busy motorway. As we’ve said time and time again, this is just India and everything just seems to fit into place, even if it does sometimes feel as though there’s no logic to it!
By train
If you’d prefer travelling by train, we would definitely recommend pencilling in one Indian train journey into your India itinerary as they are a fantastic experience in themselves.
Pondicherry has a railway station in the centre of town. The train station is quite small (in Indian terms) but has direct links to towns and cities all over south India as well as to the bigger cities of Chennai, Mangalore and Delhi.
From Puducherry Railway Station (location) it’s just over a 15 minute walk to the White Town or a 5 minute auto rickshaw ride away.
Depending on the train and its route there will be a variety of different train classes from non AC third class all the way to luxury first class. To check what class is available on your train and to book tickets, we’d recommend using 12Go.
The Indian railway network is a very popular way to travel around the country and as a result the tickets sell out extremely quickly. Make sure you book your tickets well in advance of your travel date. Tickets go on sale around 60 days in advance.
By private taxi
If you’re not on a backpacking budget and want to maximise your time in Pondicherry, then you could easily book yourself a private taxi transfer straight from wherever you are to Pondicherry.
From Chennai a taxi should take you about three hours to get to Puducherry. From Bengaluru it takes six hours, Coimbatore seven hours and Mysore eight hours.
Check out 12Go to book your taxi transfers.
By air
The nearest airport to Pondicherry is Chennai International Airport, which is located about 20 km southwest of the city of Chennai.
This airport has daily flights serving all the major cities of India including Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Jaipur, Hyderabad, Kochi and many more as well as international flights to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates, Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, Colombo in Sri Lanka, Chengdu in China to name just a few.
If you want to book a flight, we’d recommend booking your tickets here.
Once you’ve landed at Chennai International Airport, you will need to arrange a transfer to get you to Pondicherry itself. This can either be by bus, train or private taxi as detailed above, or for those looking to brave the Indian highways you could always hire a car.
If you want to book transfers in advance from the airport we’d recommend booking them through 12Go.
By road, it should take you about three hours to reach Pondicherry from the airport.
Not quite the view from an aeroplane, but the view from the top of Puducherry’s New Lighthouse is still gives you a great perspective of the city!
Puducherry does have a small airport itself, however the airport has very limited flights serving it, so we’d recommend booking your flight to Chennai instead. If this does change in the future and the airport expands its air service, please do reach out to us or let us know in the comments at the bottom of this guide.
What to do in Pondicherry?
You’ve arrived in Pondicherry, now let us tell you how to fill your time.
French Quarter or White Town - Pondicherry’s French Colonial Settlement
(Location)
The French Quarter, or White Town as it's also known, will almost certainly be the first place you’ll head to once you’ve arrived in Pondicherry. Home to the majority of accommodation, restaurants and cafes, it’ll be the area of Pondy where you’ll spend most of your time.
The easiest way to explore this historic neighbourhood is by foot. Just put on some comfy shoes, grab your camera and get lost amongst the pretty coloured buildings. The French Quarter is full of colonial style architecture and feels completely unchanged by time.
You’ll know you’re in the right place when you pass small blue and white street signs saying ‘rue’ which literally translates to street in French. Some of our favourite rues to wander down were Romain Rolland Street, Suffren Street, St Louis Street and Law De Lauristone Street, although to be honest any street in the White Town is pretty!
The White Town is also full of boutique clothes stores, artisan crafts, antique shops and art galleries, so there is plenty to keep you occupied. We thoroughly enjoyed exploring these beautiful shops, even if it was only for some window shopping, curse you backpacking budget!
During the week, the French Quarter is very quiet with only you and other tourists wandering around, but come the weekend, the French Quarter’s population explodes and you’ll have to share the towns brightly coloured walls with the Indian youth perfecting their Insta game… shh we may have joined in too! Who can blame us when there’s just so many insta-worthy doors to pose in front of.
If you’d like to know more about the history and architecture of Pondicherry’s White Town, check out this walking tour.
Café hopping in the French Quarter
There are plenty of cafes in Puducherry’s French Quarter selling everything from freshly baked croissants to pastel coloured macaroons. You may be 5027 miles (8091 km for everyone else who isn’t stuck in the past!) away from Paris, but if you’re craving French baked goods, the White Town is probably the closest you’re going to get in India to the real deal.
You could visit a new café everyday on your stay and you wouldn’t get close to trying every baked good available in the city. We spent a good few days just wandering around the streets and stopping for a hot coffee and sweet pick me up in the different cafes. You can never have too many pain au chocolates right?!
We will get into our favourite cafes later on in this article!
Sometimes you really need a European style coffee, Café Des Arts cappuccino was perfect!
Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Devasthanam Hindu Temple
(Location)
Located in the middle of the White Town, the Arulimgu Manakula Vinayagar Devasthanam Hindu temple sits in complete contrast to its colonial neighbours. It is a vivid reminder that, despite being just off of Rue de Francois Martin, you’re still 100% in India.
You’ll know you’re getting close to the temple, as suddenly the quiet streets will be filled with stall holders selling everything from temple offerings to buckets and spades. It’s a strange mix of devotional trinkets and beachside children’s toys. I had to drag John away from a display of water pistols!
There is no fee to enter the temple, but donations are always welcome. To the left of the entrance is a little area to store your shoes as you can only enter the temple barefoot.
The temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesh the elephant god and is an important pilgrimage site for Hindu’s. Inside the temple, like many of India’s amazing religious sites, it was like a jewel box. Carving and paintings in all the colours of the rainbow glittered and gleamed from every surface.
Entry cost: Free (donations welcome)
Opening times: Everyday from 5:45 am to 12:30 pm and from 16:00 pm to 21:00 pm.
Remember it is also a religious site, so remember to dress respectfully! Shoulders and knees should be covered and as we’ve said above, shoes need to be removed before entering the temple.
The temple can get extremely busy especially during religious festivals.
Puducherry Beach and Promenade Beach
(Location)
Puducherry and Promenade Beaches stretch away in both directions all along the eastern side of Pondicherry town. The beaches aren’t really ones for sunbathing as there is very little golden sand. Instead the shoreline is full of large rocks and boulders protecting the town from the rough waves of the Coromandel Coast.
The rocks are great for posing for photos and comfy enough to sit on to watch the waves roll in. The beaches face east so if you are an early riser, we’d recommend heading here to watch a sunrise over the Bay of Bengal.
The sea is extremely rough here and there are signs and security guards all along the shoreline reminding visitors not to swim in the sea as the currents are very strong!
Although you probably won’t spend long on the beach, it's a great place to catch the sea breeze and cool off from the intense Indian sun!
Entry cost: Free
The beaches lead us nicely onto the ….
Beach Road walk
Beach Road as it is so imaginatively named, runs adjacent to Puducherry Beach and is a long promenade that is closed off to traffic.
We enjoyed a very toasty walk in the midday sun, taking in all the sights that are dotted along the beachfront.
For a walk, we’d recommend starting at the southern end of Beach Road next to the Old Port Pier. The pier is now a disintegrated, rusty relic, collapsed into the sea and left to the salty elements. There’s not a lot to see and we probably wouldn’t recommend a walk on it as it looks very precarious, but if you’re into ruins (we certainly are) it’s an interesting starting point to the walk.
From the pier, head north along the coast and walk through the Beach Children Playground, alongside a small children’s play area, this small park has some raised grass planters, a couple of statues and benches to take a pew on.
After the park, why not pick up an ice cream from Gelateria Montecatini Terme (GMT Ice Cream)? After all, you are on the beach front and it is traditional! This small gelateria sells all the favourite gelato flavours such as vanilla, mint and strawberry as well as some more interesting flavours such as tiramisu and Irish cream. We both enjoyed a cone with a scoop of brownie ice cream and a scoop of cremino (milk and Nutella). Both gelatos were delicious!
After you’ve had your ice cream fix, continue walking north along Beach Road (keeping the beach to your right) until the road turns into Goubert Avenue. On Goubert Avenue continue walking along the road, past vibrant street art murals and the back of the Joan Of Arc park before reaching Le Cafe’. If you’re feeling peckish or need a drink, the café has sea front views and offers coffee, tea, smoothies, cakes, salads and sandwiches.
From Le Cafe’ continue along the beachfront until you reach the French War Memorial Park.
This white marble stone war memorial sits amongst a small green park and was built to remember the fallen French soldiers who gave their lives during the First World War. On the opposite side of the road, in stark contrast to the tranquil War Memorial Park sits the ‘Incredible India’ photo sign. A popular selfie spot with Indian families.
Next door to the sign white pillars form a pentagon to house a bronze statue of Mahatma Gandhi.
Over the road from the statue of Gandhi, Pondicherry’s Old Lighthouse rises up on top of its circular white base. The lighthouse was built in the 1830s by the French and guided ships into port for over a century until Pondicherry’s new lighthouse began operating in 1979.
Once you’ve snapped your photos of the lighthouse, continue onwards to the last stop of this walk, the Puducherry Kargil War Memorial Park. This stone memorial has four stone cenotaphs set in a square next to a dais dedicated to the Indian soldiers who lost their lives during the Kargil war in 1999 between India and Pakistan.
If you do this walk during the week, you’ll have the beachfront strip almost all to yourself (we know, a rarity in India, a country home to over 1.4 billion people!), but as the sun starts to set and during the weekend, the beachfront population swells as families and locals flock to the seashore to relax.
Entry cost: Free - although that depends on how many ice cream stops you take along the route!
Botanical Gardens
When you think of Botanical Gardens you think of peace and tranquillity, somewhere to let go, to slow down amongst nature.
What we got was the polar opposite. As we arrived outside the big iron gates, it was like we had arrived outside Wembley stadium on match day. Yellow and green rickshaws vied for space next to street side stalls selling everything from brightly coloured hats to balloons. A never ending stream of people flowed past us whilst all around loudspeakers fought against each other. It was like a battle of sound with announcements and music overlapping and competing. It was chaotic to say the least.
We had chosen to visit on the last day of the three day annual farm festival, a celebration of all things rural!
We had only two choices; one we could leave and call it a day or two, join the maelstrom and head inside. Having walked for twenty minutes in the blazing heat, we thought surely it couldn’t be that busy inside, so naively we headed in.
Inside there were impressive flower displays (including one questionably startled squirrel), red Massey Ferguson tractors (yes you could pretend to drive them) and rows and rows of brightly coloured pot plants. In gated off areas were the display gardens, with hundreds upon hundreds of flowers, fruits, trees and plants, from all over Tamil Nadu. We’re not sure what they were competing over or how the judging was to be done, but we can certainly say they were extremely popular!
It wasn’t the quiet escape to nature we had hoped for, but as we’ve said with a lot of things in India, you never really know what you’re going to get.
On non-festival days, the gardens looked as though they would be the perfect escape from the sunny streets. Built in 1826 by the French colonialists to study the exotic botany and fauna of the region, the oval-shaped garden is now home to over 1500 species of trees and plants and is full of green lawns, pruned flower beds, tall shady trees, glass houses to explore and even an aquarium. If you’re travelling with children there’s even a miniature railway complete with cave/tunnel to take a ride on.
Entry cost: 50 rupees for foreigners, 20 rupees for Indian nationals.
Opening times: everyday from 10:00 am to 17:00 pm.
If you want to visit the gardens during the farm festival you will need to visit Pondicherry in February. Check Google for exact dates, but when we visited it was held on the second weekend of February. During the festival you get free entry to the gardens and at the end there is a fireworks display.
A quieter shot of the Botanical Garden gates before the start of the annual farm festival!
Puducherry Museum (also known as the Pondy Museum)
(Location)
This small museum is located in the heart of the French Quarter and allows visitors to learn all about the history of Pondicherry. The museum houses exhibits from prehistoric times all the way up the French Colonial period, with coins, fossils and different types of weaponry all on display. Our favourite part of the museum was the ‘transport’ section that showcased a pousse-pousse, an early style rickshaw where the passengers sat and were pulled along by a driver in front.
Outside in the courtyard of the museum were lots of stone and bronze statues depicting sacred cows and Hindu gods all laid out in the small courtyard. It was strange to see carved Hindu stone gods sitting opposite the blue wooden shutters of a distinctly European looking building.
Don’t leave before checking out the small art gallery set in a ground floor building just behind the main museum itself. We nearly missed this as its a small entrance behind the main building near the toilets but it was definitely worth a nose around.
Entry cost: 50 rupees for foreigners and 10 rupees for Indian nationals.
When you buy your tickets there is also an option to get a guided tour. There is no photography allowed inside the museum itself.
Opening times: The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 09:00 am to 18:00 pm. The museum is closed on Mondays and on public holidays.
Pondicherry Lighthouse - New Light House
(Location)
Leaving the White Town behind you, head south to check out Pondicherry’s new lighthouse.
Built in the 1970s, the black and white striped lighthouse began its important task, guiding ships safely around the coast in 1979.
There are two ways to get to Pondicherry’s new lighthouse. A direct way past the cricket stadium, and the less direct way that takes you through a small fishing village.
We listened to Google and ended up taking the non-direct route, which although was longer, was actually one of our favourite walks we did in the whole of Pondicherry.
Leaving the busy modern road behind, we were greeted with small square houses and narrow alleyways leading off in all directions. To either side of the dusty street, brightly coloured saris swung on washing lines, whilst children cycled past. Goats wandered everywhere trying to nibble at us and bleating their complaints at our inedibility.
As we wound our way further into the village, it felt a world away from the upmarket cafes and bakeries of the French Quarter. As we reached the Lighthouse Beach at the end of the village, the small houses were replaced with large material warehouses and the clunking sound of wooden looms filled the air. Glimpsing inside the open doors of the warehouses we watched women pull and feed large bolts of cloth through their looms. It was like we had stepped back in time, into an India of the past. It was the only occasional sound of a mobile phone alert that reminded us that we were in the 21st century.
From the fabric warehouses, it is only a short 2 minute walk to get to the entrance of the new lighthouse.
Once you’ve bought your tickets, you need to take off your shoes before you can climb to the top.
There is no lift, so prepare yourself for a circular climb up its 250 stepped spiral staircase. The interior of the staircase is worth a visit just in itself. As you climb, look up or down, and the stairs create an eye-pleasing geometric spiral.
At the top once you’ve caught your breath, you’ll get 360 degree views across the whole of Pondicherry and out to sea.
Entry cost: 5 rupees plus 25 rupees if you have a camera.
Opening times: Every day from 2pm to 5pm.
As you leave the lighthouse, make sure you cross over the road to take a look at the small Sri Vedavaneswarar Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. There is also some colourful street art on the main road back to town, just opposite the entrance to the stadium.
Bharathi Park Puducherry
(Location)
The Bharathi Park sits on a quiet street just behind the beachfront. The park is full of trees, grass lawns, sculptures and a large neo-classical arched building in the centre.
After some very hot afternoons exploring the streets of the White Town, we would often head to the park and walk around its tree shaded circular path to cool down.
Each time we were there, the Nandi (sacred cow) statue was always adorned with fresh garlands of flowers.
There are plenty of benches in the shade to rest up before you continue on your explorations.
Entry cost: Free
Opening times: Everyday from 6am to 7pm.
The park gets extremely busy on weekends and public holidays, so if you want to bag yourself a bench, make sure you get there early!
There isn’t anywhere to buy food or drink inside the park, so stock up from one of the street sellers outside who sell everything from water, fizzy drinks, ice creams and chaat masala.
Cathedrals and churches of Pondicherry
You could easily just spend a day exploring all the churches and cathedrals, but here’s three we feel you can’t miss out on your visit!
Immaculate Conception Cathedral
(Location)
The Immaculate Conception Cathedral sits just on the edge of the French Quarter. The cathedral was first built in 1689 by the French, but was destroyed and rebuilt several times during the Colonial disputes of Pondicherry. Today the white and gold Roman Catholic cathedral is a mixture of Portuguese and French architectural styles.
If you’re visiting on a Sunday the doors are left open for visitors to join in with the mass services. Even if you’re not religious, it’s still worth a visit just to see the painted roof above the altar.
Our Lady of Angels Church (Notre Dame des Anges Church)
(Location)
Our Lady of Angels Church is a peach coloured church with two square steeple towers and a dome. As the French name suggests, the church looks like a mini (very mini) pastel coloured version of Notre Dame.
Inside the church, white and peach coloured pillars rise up to the arched ceiling, with red, blue and yellow light being refracted through its stained glass.
Just behind the church is a small park. The park is a little run down, but in the centre is a statue of Joan of Arc on top of a plinth that sits in a small pond of lilies. There’s not much to see apart from the statue, and the park isn’t one we’d recommend relaxing in, but it's worth a quick stop.
The Sacred Heart Basilica
(Location)
If you’re heading to or from Puducherry railway station, then the Sacred Heart Basilica church is just a two minute walk away.
Built in 1895, this white and terracotta neo-gothic Catholic church rises above the palm trees. Inside the paint scheme continues with pillars leading up to a domed white ceiling. The church is famous for its brightly coloured stained glass which depicts Catholic saints as well as important events during the life of Christ.
Entry cost: Free entry to all three churches.
These are all religious sights so please be respectful when visiting!
Markets of Pondicherry - The Grand Bazaar Fish Market, Big Market, Mahatma Ghandi Road Market, Goubert Market and Pondy Bazaar
We love a good market, especially a market in Asia and the markets of Pondicherry were no exception. Chaotic and crowded, everyday the markets in Pondicherry spill from large warehouses and shopfronts out onto the streets surrounding Mahatma Ghandi Road.
Just after the sun has risen, the markets come alive with people and produce, with stalls selling everything from fruit to temple offerings, vegetables to children's toys.
In the busy market street you will see men pulling wooden hand carts alongside large modern lorries. Spice stalls with huge mounds of deep red sumac sitting next to turmeric in golden pyramids. Fruit sellers selling bananas in every shape and shade of yellow and fishmongers hawking live fish caught straight from the Bay of Bengal only hours before. Their scaly wares moving and splashing around in their buckets. In amongst these fresh stalls, saris and scarves catch the wind, whilst rows of second-hand clothing hang precariously from electric wires and railings. It’s hard to describe why we love markets so much, but wherever you are they just feel alive.
We loved wandering through the markets of Pondicherry, and always saw something new. If you’re looking for a cheap breakfast, you can pick up all sorts of exotic fruit and if you’re looking for cheap clothes then you’re in the right place. Ellie picked up a bargain, buying a red skirt for only 250 rupees.
Can’t argue for £2.50!
Entry cost: Free
Opening times: Everyday from 6am to 8pm (although this can vary from stall to stall)
Sunday Market
(Location)
If you happen to be in Puducherry on a Sunday, then make sure to check out Pondicherry’s Sunday Market. Held every week from 10am in the morning, the market sees the length of Mahatma Ghandi Street closed to traffic. Selling everything from second hand furniture to gardening tools, there’s a market stall for everyone. Given the amount of stalls on offer, we’re sure you’d be able to purchase even the most niche of objects. We spent a good hour exploring the market, admiring the different antiquities and crafts on sale and especially liked the stall that was packed full to the brim with old Sony Walkman’s and Nokia phones.
The market is very popular with the locals, so expect to dodge through a lot of crowds, but it's a great place to spend a Sunday afternoon and gives you the chance to pick up some new clothes, trinkets or even some tasty street food!
Just remember to haggle a little (or maybe a lot)!
Entry cost: Free (depending on how many trinkets you buy).
Opening times: Sunday mornings from 10am till late afternoon / early evening.
If you’d like a more curated exploration of Pondicherry’s vibrant markets, then why not check out this tour with Get Your Guide.
Watching sunset from a rooftop bar
After a sunkissed day exploring the picturesque streets, there was no better way to watch the sun go down, than with a beer in hand at one of Pondicherry’s many rooftop bars.
Luckily for Puducherry there's plenty of rooftop bars to choose from. If you’re staying in Le Supreme Inn like we were, the hotel has its own excellent bar, with panoramic views over the city. We loved finishing the day with a bottle of Kingfisher watching the sun spill out from the sky and cast a golden glow over Pondicherry’s rooftops. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, the bar / restaurant is open to the public.
Guided tours of Pondicherry
If you’re short on time or would prefer to have a tour guide show you round the sights, then why not book a tour in advance?
Get Your Guide offers tours encompassing almost everything Pondicherry has to offer. From its historic past to its modern street art, wine tastings to dosa munching, cooking classes to street food tours, whatever you want to get out of Pondicherry, there will almost certainly be an experience for you.
Check out the widget below for all the tours on offer in the city:
Other things to do in Pondicherry
Even with our week in Pondicherry, there were still plenty of things we didn’t get to visit. In the White Town, there’s the small Police Museum which showcases the history of the Pondicherry police force as well as the Live Art Museum - Wow. Described as a mini Madam Tussauds, the museum houses a large collection of teddy bears along with some questionable wax works, at least according to the reviews. As we’ve said we haven’t been yet, so we can’t judge it, but if you want a giggle do check out the Google reviews!
To the north of Heritage town (this area is also known as the Tamil Quarter) is the Mahakavi Bharathiyar Memorial Centre, a museum located in the former home of the journalist, activist and writer Mahakavi Bharathiyar. Just a short walk from this memorial centre is another museum, the Bharathidasan Museum that houses the works of the 20th century writer. If you’re in the area why not also check out the Sri Varadaraja Perumal Temple. A beautiful Vishnu temple thought to be built in the 11th century.
There are also plenty of other Hindu temples dotted throughout Puducherry, just take a walk down any street and you’re bound to find a colourful shrine, temple or alcove dedicated to a Hindu deity.
Puducherry is full of beautiful Hindu temples to discover!
Spot the cute puppy!
Where to eat and drink in Pondicherry?
Pondicherry is full to the brim with places to eat. From roadside street stalls to down to earth dhabas, fine dining to hole in the wall, Pondicherry has something for everyone. Here’s just some of our favourite places to eat in the town.
The best cafes in Pondicherry
Bread and Chocolate
(Location)
The definition of upmarket, Bread and Chocolate is a chocolatier, gelato maker and bakery with an elegant rooftop dining room selling small plates and full meals from breakfast dishes to dinner.
We treated ourselves a couple of times here and had some excellent lunches from a Mexican bean salad wrapped in dosa to a roast vegetable and quinoa poke bowl.
You’ve head of Tex-Mex, now try some Mex-ian!
One afternoon we treated ourselves to a delicious cinnamon whirl (always one of our favourites) that was huge, sticky and full of sweet cinnamon. Bread and Chocolate also serve excellent sourdough bread as well as its range of wonderful pastries.
If you’re vegan or vegetarian, there is plenty to choose from and they also offer gluten free options too.
A word of caution, if you want to eat here get in early! The cafe gets extremely busy, especially at weekends, and the kitchen is quite small so there can be long waits.
Café Des Arts
(Location)
Café Des Arts wins the award for our favourite café in Pondicherry.
Set within an old colonial mansion, Cafe Des Arts feels as though you’ve entered an old library, with antique furniture, magnificent paintings and lots of bookshelves. If you’re looking for some solitude then there are plenty of cubby holes and comfy armchairs to escape into. The café also has a pretty walled garden with plenty of outdoor seating.
Café Des Arts serves French pastries, sandwiches, salads, crepes and waffles and is perfect for a breakfast, brunch or lunch treat.
We treated ourselves more than once at this café and were never disappointed. We loved their Summer Salad that was full of crisp cucumber, shavings of mint, sweet watermelon and salty feta cheese topped with pumpkin seeds, chopped almonds and a tangy dressing. We also had a fantastic caramelised banana crepe that was sweet and delicious, and felt like a very decadent treat!
Our favourite drink to have was the local Ginger Beer, brewed just up the road in Auroville. It was spicy, refreshing and the perfect pick me up.
Café Des Arts is an extremely popular café especially on the weekends, so there may be a bit of a wait outside to get a table.
Coromandel Café
(Location)
The Coromandel Café is probably the most famous café in the whole of Pondicherry. Set in a beautiful garden, this café is open from breakfast through to dinner, serving everything from eggs Benedict to bagels, French pastries to Italian pizza and pork chops through to steak.
Unfortunately we couldn’t justify the cost of dining here, so we could only look through at the pretty courtyard patio, but from what we could see the food looked delicious!
The café also serves wine and cocktails.
The French Loaf Bakery and Cake Shop
(Location)
This small bakery serves fresh loaves of bread, French pastries, doughnuts and savoury tarts as well as coffee and tea.
We ventured here for breakfast on more than one occasion and enjoyed a hot cappuccino alongside some delicious croissants. The shop is open from early morning to late at night, so whatever time of day, you’ll easily be able to get your sweet treat!
The bakery is located on Suffren Street, this street is full of pretty architecture and it is worth coming down just to check out the buildings, if not for the almond croissants!
The Indian Coffee House
(Location)
If you’re after a real local treat, then make sure you make a beeline to the Indian Coffee House. From the outside this old school coffee walla oozes classic charm. Inside, the coffee house feels as though time has stood still and you’ve entered a canteen from the 1940s.
Depending on the time of day, there are different food options available. With dosa, idly and vada available in the mornings and biryani, uttapam and omelettes available in the afternoon. To know what is available just check out the menu on the wall.
It’s super cheap with a cup of coffee costing just 25 rupees.
The Indian style coffee is spiced, sweet and strong and great at perking you up on a hot day.
The best restaurants in Pondicherry
Sola Bistro & Bar
(Location)
Every once in a while (even when you’re backpacking) you need an excuse to dress up and treat yourself to a fancy meal. It just so happened to be John’s birthday whilst we were in Pondicherry, so we glammed ourselves up, in the one shirt and dress we have in our backpacks, and headed off for some fancy cocktails and food!
The birthday boy all dressed up!
Sola specialises in serving Mediterranean favourites with a menu spanning salads, pasta dishes, pizza and flatbreads. The restaurant is located in a beautiful old building full of wooden doors, terracotta tiled floors and shuttered windows.
We were craving pizza, so we chose the Mediterranean vegetable pizza and the roasted garlic and prawn pizza and had a fantastic cheesy feast! The sourdough pizzas were just the ticket for backpackers craving a little familiarity. Crispy thin bases with the perfect ratio of topping to cheese.
As it was a celebration we treated ourselves to two Moscow Mule cocktails. Minty, sharp with lime and full of hot ginger! The cocktails were a little too easy to drink and if we weren’t on a backpacking budget we definitely would have had more than one.
Sola is a little more costly than we’d usually go for, but it was totally worth it for the delicious food, pretty interior and tasty cocktails!
If you don’t fancy a cocktail, Sola also offers a great wine menu as well as spirits and beer.
The restaurant does get very busy, so we would recommend booking a table.
De Bluefin Seafood Restaurant
(Location)
After our epic seafood curry feast in Chennai we had set our hearts on finding more fish to dine on in India, and De Bluefin Seafood restaurant seemed like the perfect shout.
Serving a variety of, you guessed it, seafood, De Bluefin specialises in all things fish! We ordered the seafood platter alongside their special curried crab.
The seafood platter came served on a wooden tray completely covered with oceany goodness including a whole tawa fried fish, grilled prawns, crab claw balls, lobster bites, squid masala as well as chutneys, rice and French fries. It was an amazing fishy feast!
Our fishy feast didn’t dissapoint!
The curried crab was bursting with a thick spicy sauce that covered the whole crab. It was a messy affair with our hands covered in crab shell and curry by the end, but it was totally worth it!
De Bussy Restaurant
(Location)
We arrived at De Bussy to find a completely empty restaurant, but within about 5 minutes of us placing our order there wasn’t a spare seat in the house.
De Bussy serves all the Indian favourites from curries, rice and bread as well as seafood, dosa, biryani and a large selection of starters.
We ordered paneer butter masala, fish biryani and some naan bread and weren’t disappointed. The naan was super crispy from the tandoor and was the perfect accompaniment to the sweet, spiced butter masala. The fish biryani was laced through with chunks of sweet, flaky fish flesh and was bursting with flavour.
Boku Ramen
(Location)
If you’re reading this and are surprised to see a ramen restaurant make it to the list of best eats in Pondicherry, then you’ll be just as surprised as we were to stumble upon Boku Ramen.
This small street-side ramen joint has only a few tables and chairs surrounding the tiny kitchen and serves three types of broth (shoyu, miso or paitan) each of which come with a variety of different toppings.
We are ramen lovers and wherever we are, if we see a ramen restaurant we have to try it. We both opted for the shoyu chicken ramen and it was everything we hoped for.
Salty and comforting, the noodles were perfectly cooked with a soft bite that contrasted against the crunchy vegetables. We especially liked the enoki mushrooms that gave a rich earthy taste. After a couple of days of John being hit by a nasty cold, this was the perfect cure to help get him back to health.
Boku Ramen also offers vegan and vegetarian bowls.
The best cheap eats in Pondicherry
Coffee bars
If you want a strong pick me up then head for one of the local coffee and tiffin bars dotted all round the city. These small streetside cafes will have a long bar serving tea, extremely strong filter coffee and all your favourite Indian snacks such as samosa, idli and dosa. Just place your order with one of the servers. These cafes are usually standing only.
If we wanted a cheap pick me up, we would head to any of these bars and order a coffee with a samosa. The samosas we had were excellent. Delicately spiced, with a soft potato filling encased in a flaky, pastry. They were the perfect accompaniment to the hot rocket fuel coffee.
Our favourite spot doesn’t have a Google listing, but if you head to the New Vijaya Coffee Bar (location) just head over the road as it’s just opposite this place. We’re not casting any shade at New Vijaya Coffee Bar, but once we had samosas from its neighbour, there was no tempting us away.
Market stalls
As we’ve said before you can’t go wrong with picking up a cheap breakfast of fresh fruit from one of the market stalls dotted around the city. These stalls are usually on wheels, so if you do have a favourite stall during your time in the city, just be aware that it may not always be there the next day when you come back!
Nightlife, breweries and bars
As the sun goes down, Pondicherry comes alive as its bar scene starts to unfold. With live music venues, DJ’s and dancefloors, there’s something for every night owl.
For those after craft beer there are two breweries within Pondicherry, the Catamaran Brewing Company and the Metamorphosis Brewing Company. Each of which offer a large menu of different craft ales, lagers and pilsners as well as food, live music and bar games.
Where to stay in Pondicherry?
Pondicherry has no shortage of accommodation from cheap and cheerful hostels and guesthouses to luxury boutique hotels. The majority of the accommodation can be found either in or surrounding the French Quarter.
We had a fantastic stay in the Le Supreme Inn (the Lap of Luxury) hotel, located just a short walk away from the White Town. The hotel offered huge comfy double rooms with en-suite bathrooms. Each morning, we were given a hearty and filling Indian breakfast full of idly, curry, chutneys and fresh fruit in the restaurant on their rooftop.
Despite its name, Le Supreme Inn (the Lap of Luxury) was very reasonably priced for Pondicherry. If you’re looking for something cheaper still, then why not check out a stay in one of Pondicherry’s guest houses.
If you are looking for a mid-range hotel, then have a look at Petit Palais or Villa Helena Heritage Guesthouse both of which are located within the White Town.
If money is no object and you shudder at the thought of something less than absolute perfection for the night, then cast your eyes towards the Palais De Mahe or The Residency Towers.
Check out the map below for all the accommodation choices on offer in the town:
Make sure you book your accommodation well in advance of your stay, especially if you are planning to visit on a weekend. Puducherry is a popular destination for both Indian and Western tourists, and on the weekend and during public holidays, the town's population explodes as people flock to the coast.
Getting around Pondicherry
If you’re staying in or around the French Quarter, the easiest way to get around is by foot. As you’ve probably gathered from our articles, our favourite way to explore any new city or town is just to pick a direction, follow our feet and see where we end up. The French Quarter of Pondicherry is compact enough that you can easily follow in our footsteps!
For those who’d like a more relaxing way to see the French Quarter, then there are plenty of cycle rickshaws lined up on the street to take you for a ride. Just speak with the driver and bargain for a price. As we’re on a backpacking budget, and quite frankly are too self conscious to be ferried about we can’t help you with prices. If you’d rather ride yourself, then you could easily hire a bike for your stay. Just ask your accommodation to help you arrange this.
If you’re heading out of the White Town such as to the bus station or train station, then there are plenty of auto rickshaws available to take you. Just hail one down on the street, let them know where you want to go and agree on a price before getting in.
The town of Pondicherry also has a new form of transport that we had never seen before in India. This came in the form of shared auto rickshaws. Think the front of a rickshaw (the driver's seat part) mixed with the flatbed of a Toyota pickup complete with benches, roof and a small open door to climb through and there you have it, the shared auto rickshaw.
This is what it is like inside one of the shared auto rickshaws!
From what we gathered (please do tell us if we’re wrong) these rickshaws run a bit like the songthaews of Thailand and the angkots of Indonesia, driving around the city in certain directions. To flag a ride, just hail one off the street, let them know where you want to go and take a seat. When you get to your destination just pay the driver what you owe. We flagged down one of these shared auto rickshaws outside the bus station and rode down Bussy street to the junction with Mission street. Our ride cost us 50 rupees for both of us plus our large backpacks. This was a massive amount cheaper than we had been quoted by the rickshaws hanging around outside the bus station.
If you’re wanting to travel further afield then Uber will be your friend. Just be aware that to request a ride you will need an Indian sim card or eSIM.
When to visit Pondicherry?
The best time to visit Pondicherry is during the dry season that runs from October to March. During this time the weather will be hot and sunny, with minimal rainfall. We visited in February and had beautiful sunny weather with temperatures in the high 30s. It was very hot, but we used it as an excuse to dive into the air conditioned cafes to cool down!
The monsoon season runs from July to October. During this time prices should be lower and there shouldn’t be as much of a need to book your accommodation in advance. Although as the name suggests, the monsoon season does bring lots of rain. There is still plenty for you to do inside, just make sure you bring an umbrella and pack a raincoat. At the end of the day, Paris still looks great in the rain, so why wouldn’t Pondicherry!
How long should I stay in Pondicherry?
This is a tricky one to answer, how long is a piece of string?
If you’re very short on time, you could easily visit Pondicherry as part of a guided tour from Chennai , but if you can, we would recommend adding a stopover in Pondicherry for at least a night. There is lots to do as well as plenty of restaurants and cafes to unwind in.
Due to John’s man flu, we ended up staying in Pondicherry for a week which was a little too long even for us as slow travellers.
After visiting for so long, we think the perfect balance would be a three night stay where you’d have an afternoon / evening to find your feet and two full days to explore. If you plan on using Pondicherry as a base for day trips (see more later on), then obviously you could spend longer.
If you were on a long backpacking trip throughout India and wanted somewhere to treat yourself to some Western comforts then Pondicherry would be the perfect place to do this as there’s plenty of cafes and bakeries. The only drawback is that these comforts are comparatively expensive. When we visited we were only at the start of our southern Indian sojourn and therefore hadn’t been hit with the Western cravings like we had at the end of our northern jaunt in India last summer.
For those not on a backpacking trip, as we’ve mentioned in the where to stay section of this article, there are plenty of luxurious hotels to choose from. With pools, fine dining restaurants and comfy rooms you could easily spend a good few days living in luxury!
Day trips to and from Pondicherry
Auroville and Auroville Beach
A half hour drive north of Pondicherry, just along the coast lies the experimental township of Auroville. In fact if you travelled from Chennai to Pondicherry on the bus you’ll have passed the junction for Auroville on your way.
Auroville was created in the 1970s as an “alternative lifestyle township”. Today its inhabitants invite visitors to learn more about the community’s ideals as well as to meditate in its golden Matrimandir dome in the heart of the settlement.
Just down the road from Auroville, there is a beach to sunbathe on as well as plenty of restaurants and cafes in the area.
If you’d like to stay overnight, then we’d recommend staying at Zostel Pondicherry. We have stayed in multiple Zostels all over India and have always had a fantastic time. They offer dorms, private rooms and an on-site cafe.
If hostels aren’t your cup of tea, then there’s plenty of other accommodation to choose from within the Auroville area. Click here to book a stay.
If you’re short on time and want to combine a visit to both Auroville and Pondicherry, then you can take a private tour straight from Chennai. Check out the tour here:
Mahabalipuram
From Pondicherry, Mahabalipuram is only a bus ride away. This seaside town is host to the UNESCO designated cave shrines, ruins and shoreside temples. It is an amazing site and well worth a day trip out. Check our guide to getting there and what we got up to here.
You can catch a bus from Pondicherry to Mahabalipuram from the main bus depot in town. Just ask the driver of any bus to Chennai if they are passing Mahabalipuram junction.
If you would like an organised tour to Mahabalipuram check out this tour on Get Your Guide.
Chennai
The Tamil Nadu capital of Chennai is the nearest big city to Pondicherry. This vibrant megacity feels a world away from the Colonial streets of Pondicherry. With amazing temples, lots of tasty street food and a historic fort there is plenty to see and do.
From Pondicherry, you could visit Chennai in a day, either by catching a local or private bus or by getting an early morning train. To book tickets in advance, check out 12Go.
We spent three days in Chennai exploring its incredible temples, eating great seafood and enjoying the chilled out atmosphere, but could easily have spent longer. You can read more about our stay here.
Where to go next?
From Pondicherry, you could head north to the city of Chennai or you could work your way south and follow our route and head on to “God’s Own Country” to the coastal capital of Kerala, Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum for short).
If you’ve had your coastal fix, then why not head inland to cool off and escape to the mountains and tea plantations of Ooty, Coorg or Wayanad.
Whichever way you're travelling in your southern India itinerary, Pondicherry is the perfect stopover and once you’ve come to the end you’ve got plenty of options on where to go next.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Mahabalipuram - Ancient Temples of South India
A perfect day out from Chennai, the ruins, caves, carvings and temples of Mahabalipuram are a treat not yet well known in the West. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Mahabalipuram is an amazing place to explore and discover India’s past. Read our guide for how to get there, entrance costs and what there is to see!
South of the Indian city of Chennai lies the ancient ruins of Mahabalipuram. Designated a UNESCO World Hertiage Site, Mahabalipuram is a treasure trove of temples, carvings, cave shrines and monuments. The temples and ruins of Mahabalipuram are a fantastic day out from nearby Chennai or Pondicherry; from the famous Shore Temple to Krishna’s Butterball Mahabalipuram is stuffed full of history and adventure.
The ruins are easily accessible from Chennai or Pondicherry by bus or car, just ride down (or up!) the Coromandel coast and you will find yourself amongst the amazing ancient relics.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
What is Mahabalipuram?
Mahabalipuram (or sometimes Mamallapuram) is a UNESCO World Heritage site wedged between the great Salt Lake and the Bay of Bengal. The modern town has risen up around a collection of cave temples, holy monuments, massive carved rock reliefs and famous sea shore Temples.
The town is named after its founding King - Narasimhavarman whose shortened name was Mamalla. It was a rich and important port city for the king and so a wealth of temples, shrines and monuments were built there.
Today, Mahabalipuram has lots to explore; there is the the Sea Shore Temple, one of the largest rock relief carvings in India, ‘Krishna’s Butter Ball’ and the plethora of cave temples. The ruins in and around Mahabalipuram make for a fantastic day out.
Where is and how to get to Mahabalipuram?
Mahabalipuram sits on the Coromandel coast, in the state of Tamil Nadu roughly halfway between the megacity of Chennai and the old French colonial town of Pondicherry.
From Chennai Mahabalipuram is easily accessible by bus, just head to the CMBT bus station (location) and ask the driver of any of the buses headed to Pondicherry if they stop near Mahabalipuram. Most of them do and it is around a 2 hours ride down the coast . The same applies, but in reverse if you are travelling from Pondicherry, just ask on the buses going towards Chennai! From Pondicherry it is a little further at around 3 hours.
The bus will drop you off at a junction between the main road and an offshoot that heads into Mahabalipuram (around here on a map). You can either jump in a local taxi or rickshaw (beware of the price - always agree it in advance and haggle!) or just walk the twenty minutes from here into the town.
If you like things sorted in advance, or want a more private, comfortable ride; you can book a taxi online with 12go.
If you are interested in an organised tour (a very good idea!) there are several available. Have a look at Get Your Guide for some inspiration. Most of the tours will start either at Chennai or Pondicherry. At Mahabalipuram itself you can hire a guide to take you around but the quality of the onsite hawker guides is unknown!
If you are coming from further afield, you will almost certainly have to go via Chennai (if coming from the north) or Pondicherry (if you are approaching from the south). The nearest train station to the site is Thirumani which is still a 40 minute drive away.
Hotels and accommodation in Mahabalipuram
Despite making for a great day trip from Chennai or Pondicherry, Mahabalipuram is also a great place to stay in its own right. With prime access to the temples and UNESCO sites, if you stayed the night you would be able to beat the crowds and the heat!
Mahabalipuram offers some high end resorts and hotels if you are looking for a more secluded, luxurious holiday. You would still be within striking distance of the big city of Chennai and the pretty town of Pondicherry.
You could also use a stay at Mahabalipuram to split up the travel between Chennai and Pondicherry. There are hotels and guesthouses for any budget.
Check out our handy map below for all of the hostel, hostel and resort choices:
Zoom out for more choices - some of the resorts are along the coast outside of the town.
Mahabalipuram opening times:
Both the main complex of ruins in the town and the Shore Temple are open between 6AM and 6PM everyday.
As always in India, these timings may be different during festive periods.
Entrance fee for the Mahabalipuram Group of Monuments.
You can buy a single ticket for all the sites at Mahabalipuram. The cost for a foreigner is 550 rupees (£5.24 or $6.59).
For Indian nationals the entrance fee drops considerably, to a mere 35 rupees (£0.33 or $0.42!).
There is a lot to see!
Tickets can be bought at the entrance to both the main site or the Shore Temple. You can also buy the tickets online from the Archaeological Survey of India here and skip the queue!
What to do in Mahabalipuram - Our day among the temples
Our day started out from Chennai and our cosy accommodation at Elements Hostel. The staff had clued us in to the fact that you could easily get to the ancient ruins of Mahabalipuram by public bus from Chennai. We just had to get to the CMBT bus terminal and jump on a bus heading towards Pondicherry. We grabbed some bananas, basted ourselves in sunscreen and headed for the metro.
A cheap, quick metro ride later and we emerged at the CMBT station. We quickly realised that, it was all well and good saying it was easy to find a bus heading towards Pondicherry / Puducherry, but we had apparently forgotten how much of a whirlwind Indian central bus depots can be!
You could get a bus going anywhere from the CMBT, it was huge. A swarm of government buses roared and honked their way around the terminal, all part of some choreographed square dance that we could not understand. Add in to this that the majority of the buses had their destination signs in an alphabet we could not translate (either Grantha, Malayalam, Singhalese or Tamil), and we were more than a little confused!
This wasn't our first rodeo however, so we did what we always do in overwhelmingly confusing situations - find a drink. We retreated from the crowds to a stall selling water and fizzy drinks and bought a couple of cold bottles of water. We caught our breath and decided on tactics: number one - have a systematic walk around. Number two - if one had failed, throw ourselves on the mercy of an attendant (John in particular will go to extreme lengths not to ask for directions or help!).
Whilst discussing strategy Ellie pointed out that all the buses next to us actually said “Pondicherry” on the front. Written across their windscreens, in the familiar roman alphabet, was indeed the word Pondicherry! We had been standing next to the correct set of buses the whole time. We excitedly leapt aboard the bus with the most people already on and … were quickly told that this one did not stop at Mahabalipuram. Red faced we clambered back down and slunk onto the next bus, one which actually was going our route!
There are two main ways to Pondicherry and only one of them clings to the coast and takes the bus past Mahabalipuram junction. So make sure you check when you get on! The whole bus station confusion could have easily been avoided if we had just asked someone where the bus left from.
Pride is a very dumb trait in a traveller…
Once aboard it was the familiar Indian bus journey story. No air con but the breeze through the windows, lumpy seats and loud music. We love it, it's an experience travelling around on local public transport and we do it everywhere in our travels that we can. It is not just because we are cheapskates, not at all!
A couple of hours into our journey down the coast, the bus conductor let us know we were coming up to our stop. Mahabalipuram junction is not actually in the town of Mahabalipuram but is the point where the main road and the towns approach road diverge and fork away from each other. There is a largish junction, with a covered bus shelter on the main road side, a couple of stalls and the traditional gang of rickshaw drivers waiting to pounce.
After warding off the offers of lifts, guides and novelty statues we walked the twenty minutes from the junction into the town of Mahabalipuram. As soon as you are in the town you can see that it has grown up around the ancient sacred sites. There are signs everywhere directing you to different temples, shrines and carvings. We had a whole day to explore as the buses to and from Chennai were meant to be pretty frequent throughout the day. We set off for a full set of ruin hunting.
The Descent of the Ganga River
(location)
Our first stop in town was the massive rock relief, the Descent of the Ganga River. Two enormous boulders squat next to each other, the whole of their faces covered in intricate, sculptural carvings. Every surface, even the filled in gap between the boulders, is stuffed with figures, animals and symbols.
The rock relief depicts the legend of the Ganga’s descent to Earth. The most holy of Indian rivers, the Ganga, falls to Earth and is divided into tributaries by flowing through Lord Shiva’s hair. Two sides of the relief show gods, people and animals all witnessing and paying homage to the descent of the river. At one point (at least according to Wiki) water would have collected on top of the boulders and flowed down the gap between them.
There is a little disagreement as to some meanings of some of the carvings, the figure shown next to Lord Shiva may, or may not be Arjuna. The alternate name for the rock carvings is “Arjuna’s Penance” and the carvings may show him doing said penance to receive the weapon that Lord Shiva is shown holding.
Arjuna (or possibly Bhagiratha) and Lord Shiva
The legend is that Arjuna needed help in an upcoming war and appealed to Shiva for a weapon. Demons attacked Arjuna but he fought them off with the help of a disguised Shiva. Shiva (still disguised) and Arjuna then fought over who had landed the killing blow on the demon. Shiva (obviously) won the fight, revealed himself and granted Arjuna’s wish for a weapon. After fighting a God Arjuna’s (understandably) had to do penance.
Alternatively, the figure may represent Bhagiratha who, according to legend, entreated the Ganga down to Earth to wash over the ashes of his relatives. This follows more of the legends depicted but is, for some reason, the less popular theory. Possibly because of the carved figures pose.
The reliefs are stuffed with amazing details; underneath the elephants their young kneel and lay their trunks on the floor, cheeky monkeys copy yoga poses from nearby devotees and there is even what looks like a flock of chickens! In the channel between the rocks naga (half human half snake mythical beings) coil like springs. The carvings are so large as to be almost life sized. It is a fantastic sight.
You can see the monkey on the right mimicking the yogi on the left!
The “Descent of the Ganga” rock relief is not behind any ticket counter and is free to go and see at any time - Although it does get quite busy!
The Krishna Mandapam
Just next door to the rock reliefs is the Krishna Mandapam. We wandered along and joined the groups moving into and around this giant stone structure. Like the rock relief, the Krishna Mandapam has been carved out of the solid granite stone of the area. A large ornate building has been excavated from the granite complete with columns and carvings. It looks like the entrance hall to a grand temple has just grown out of the rock face.
It was a beautiful but scorching day!
The Krishna Mandapam gets its name from the amazing carvings within. According to Wiki, the carvings came first and their impressive housing afterwards. The stone carvings retell the legend of Krishna saving cowherds and milk maids from a flood of rain. Krishna gave sanctuary to the maids and shepherds by lifting up a hill on one finger and letting them shelter beneath!
Using a mountain as an umbrella is quite the flex!
The Mandapam is very impressive from the outside but surprisingly calm and understated within. There are carvings on the floors, walls and even the ceilings, there is always something new to catch your eye. You do not need too long inside the Mandapam, despite the grand entrance, it is not huge inside.
The Krishna Mandapam, like the rock relief is freely open to the public and require no tickets to enter.
Mahabalipuram park - Cave shrines, unfinished temples, a throne, a bath and Krishna’s Butterball!
(location)
A few steps down the road from the rock relief is the ticket counter and entrance to the largest of the Mahabalipuram sites (location). The tickets set us back 550 rupees a piece and were valid throughout all the sites in Mahabalipuram, not just the park we were in now.
Spread out amongst green lawns, sloping rock terraces and rolling hills, this UNESCO designated area of the town houses some of Mahabalipuram’s most popular attractions.
As soon as you enter you are greeted with the bizarre sight of Krishna’s Butter Ball - a massive, improbably balanced dollop of rock sitting on a slope.
It really doesn't look stable but repeated attempts throughout the centuries have failed to shift this giant stone. The Butter Ball gets its name from tales of a mischievous young Krishna stealing butter - the shape of the rock looks like a dropped scoop of butter so locals coined the name.
Walking off to the right of Krishna’s Butter Ball, the path took us first around a set of amazing rock carvings (including some fantastic elephants), and then through to the Thirumoorthi Cave.
Thirumoorthi cave is a beautiful temple carved into the rock with ornate statues on the engraved door frames and incredibly detailed depictions of gods and legends sculpted from the rocks. The word Mandapam (as in the previously seen Krishna Mandapam), means a square vestibule cut into rock and this seems to have been the design basis for many of the Mahabalipuram shrines and monuments. There are lots of these little temples scattered about the grounds and it was always fun, when you had wandered off the main path, to stumble on them.
Everywhere you go in the complex, you will stumble upon amazing little details.
Something we noticed (and then looked up later!) about the temples and shrines at Mahabalipuram is that a lot of them are decidedly unfinished. They are not just ruins but half built ruins! This is (again thank you internet) due to the fact that after their principal sponsor passed away, King Rajasimha (also known as Narasimhavarman the second), his replacements became embroiled in wars and territory disputes. Being so busy fighting, preparing to fight or catching up with sleep after a fight, the new kings did not have the time or inclination to finish the old king's works. The fact that lots of the temples and monuments are unfinished actually is something of a boon for archeologists. The Mahabalipuram complex has allowed rare insights into the building methods for other cave temples and rock structures across India.
We continued on up the central Mahabalipuram hill, our route alternating between bare stone, ancient carved steps and modern pathways. We passed the gorgeous Kodikkal Mandapam, and the Koppiyar Pond as we made our way to the top.
At the peak of the hill was not only a fantastic panoramic view of the countryside surrounding Mahabalipuram but another collection of monuments to explore.
There was Dharmaraja's Rock Cut Throne, thronged with people waiting their turn at a selfie on the austere rocky chair. Just past the throne was Draupadi's bath. The bath has a series of tiny steps carved into it that, once we had climbed them, allowed us an even more impressive view of the surrounding hills and plains.
The plateau top of the central hill was fantastic, large enough that you didn't feel swamped by the crowds of visitors (it is a very popular site) whilst still having lots of amazing ruins to check out and vista’s to admire.
The top of the hill also is home to the unfinished Roya Gopuram. Only the massive base layer of this temple entrance was completed but it is clear from this alone it would have been monumental in scale. We wandered through the enormous entranceway admiring the figures sculpted into the walls and columns, there is something bittersweet about an ancient, unfinished ruin, it didn't even get a day to be its whole self before being abandoned to time.
The gopura would have been massive….
As we wandered back down the hill we found ourselves next to the three story tall Ganesha Ratha. The Ratha are huge, chariot shaped ceremonial buildings. Ganesha Ratha is especially impressive with its stepped roof full of decorations and detail. There are lots of Ratha’s across Mahabalipuram with the most famous collection being the Five Brothers Ratha.
The Five Brothers may be the most famous Ratha but they had managed to completely evade our attention as it was only when we left Mahabalipuram and started researching this article that we found out about them! They are situated around a kilometre down the road from the large site we were exploring. Do not be like us and miss them, you can find them here.
We wandered, explored and chilled out around the complex for a few hours. It is stuffed full of hidden corners, little viewpoints and secret temples. There was loads more to see than we have said here, we don’t want to ruin the joy of exploration for you! We would definitely recommend just taking it slow and wandering wherever your interest takes you.
India is always full of colour, never drab!
Mahabalipuram Sea Shore Temple
(location)
On the other side of Mahabalipuram town, on the edge of the Bay of Bengal, rises the magnificent Shore Temple. One of the oldest stone temples in Southern India, the Shore Temple was one of the structures completed under King Rajasimha - he of the unfinished Gopura, around 725AD (thank you Wikipedia). This UNESCO designated site was mentioned by Marco Polo in his travel writings and is one of the most iconic sights not only in Mahabalipuram but Tamil Nadu as a whole.
The ticket we previously purchased at the ruin complex in town also got us into the shore temple area, so we slathered on another layer of suncream (by this point we were 80% sunblock by weight), and walked towards the sea.
After a winding flower lined path we arrived at the temple. India is full of beautiful, unique buildings with massive differences from North to South. We had seen the serene beauty of the Key / Kee Monastery in the Spiti valley, the incredible Golden temple of Amritsar, the amazing Gopuras of Chennai’s Kapaleeshawara / Kapaleeswarar Temple and, of course, goggled at the wonder of the world, the Taj Mahal in Agra. The Shore Temple of Mahabalipuram was yet another example of the endless beauty and near infinite variety of India’s architecture.
The Shore Temple complex is actually made of three separate temples all sharing the same foundation. Two are dedicated to Lord Shiva and the third honours Lord Vishnu. We wandered about these structures admiring the sculptures and carvings and explored the huge empty temple water tank with its large lingam and lion guardian.
For the best views walk clockwise around the temples, find the fence that separates the site from the public beach, and look backwards. It is a unique and beautiful place.
Final thoughts and tips
As always, we explored Mahabalipuram independently, without a guide. However, in this rare instance, we can see that a guide may have actually been a good idea. Hopefully we have fooled you and come across as relatively informed in the above descriptions, but this was all knowledge that we found out afterwards. We had a fantastic day wandering the ruins but there is not much information available at the site without a guide. There are the occasional plaque or (rather dry) explanation, but these do not cover every area. To write this article we had to google a lot. It would have been nice to have some of this information whilst we were there, maybe we wouldn’t have missed the Five Brother Rathas!
Check out Get Your Guide below for some tour ideas:
The town of Mahabalipuram is very much set up to deal with tourists, resort vacationers and day trippers. There are souvenir shops aplenty as well as lots of restaurants and beachside activities. If you are travelling with little ones, there are fairground games and pony rides to be found on the beaches.
For food options in Mahabalipuram, you have plenty of choice. Within the sites themselves you will find your usual array of snack and drink vendors. Outside in the town itself there are lots of dhabbas, biriyani joints and restaurants. If you are staying at any of the resorts nearby, they nearly all have restaurants attached.
Come sizzling heat or driving rain, nothing will deter sellers at a tourist attraction.
If you have done the same sightseeing route as we did and fancy a seafood meal; come out of the Shore Temple complex and head around to the town and beach just to the north (location). You will find loads of restaurants for a good seafood lunch. Most of the restaurants have very similar menus and prices so just pick one with a nice view that takes your fancy. As a tourist town the prices are higher than normal and the restaurants are geared for dealing with crowds. If you are in the Chennai area and want a properly adventurous fish feast make sure you read our article on Chennai and the incredible Meenavan Unavagam restaurant.
Mahabalipuram made for the perfect day trip for us. A complete break from the city of Chennai and an amazing dive back into history. India is studded with incredible historical sites and we would definitely say Mahabalipuram should make it onto your southern India itinerary. The central complex park is so much fun just to explore and discover at your own pace and the Shore Temple is just so impressive.
Mahabalipuram had been a place we were not even aware of until we had checked into our Chennai hostel, but we are so glad we made the effort to get there!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
Been spending most our lives, living in a posers paradise.
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Chennai - A Guide To The Capital Of Tamil Nadu
The southern Indian city of Chennai is a sprawling, colourful, charming and chaotic place. Full of amazing food, incredible temples and fantastic sights, our complete guide to the city will help you get the most out of Tamil Nadu’s capital. From backpacker to boujie, fish feasts to feta salads, temples to lighthouses we cover it all in our mega guide to Chennai.
On the Coromandel coast, sits the southern Indian city of Chennai. Home to over seven million people, Chennai is the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu. These are the facts, cold, clinical and boring. What Chennai really is however, is a fantastic, friendly modern city, full of amazing food and incredible sights.
In contrast to the intensity of the northern cities of Delhi, Jaipur, Agra and Varanasi, Chennai feels welcoming and laid back with wide boulevards and lots of green spaces. The Chennai locals seemed, to us at least, to be more relaxed, less intense and extremely friendly.
We had arrived in the city after an epic 34 hour train journey from all the way up north in the holy city of Varanasi. When we stepped off the train the difference was immediate - it was February and we had left Varanasi in jeans and a hoodie; we arrived in Chennai and were greeted by sunshine and sweltering, over thirty degrees heat (86+ for our fahrenheit brethren), heat. After a quick un-hoodie-ing and a chug of water, we headed off into the city.
Chennai won our hearts nearly immediately, the food, people and chilled out streets, the temples, museums and sights, all of it was completely different from the rest of our Indian experiences and all of it was fantastic.
This is our complete guide to this amazing city.
In this article:
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Where is the city of Chennai?
Chennai is located on the south eastern coast of India. Right at the top of the state of Tamil Nadu. The neighbouring state of Kerala lies to the west and the states of Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh sit to the north.
Chennai is known as the “Gateway to southern India”. The city boasts a long coastline and beach with famous food spots, a huge fishing industry and a massive industrial port.
The city itself is sprawling and varied. From tree lined avenues to crowded old markets the city changes from street to street.
How to get to Chennai?
As a fully fledged megacity, Chennai has great transport links throughout India and internationally.
Arriving by train
Chennai has several large train stations serving both local routes and linking the city to the rest of India. Trains can be caught to all over India Including routes to Mumbai, New Delhi and Bangalore in the north as well as south to Thiruvananthapuram / Trivandrum, Kochi and most of the other southern cities.
The main train station is Puratchi Thalaivar Dr. M.G. Ramachandran Central Railway Station otherwise simply known as Chennai Central (location). This beautiful, grandiose station serves most of the long distance routes into and out of Chennai as well as handling lots of more local lines. It also has the main metro station , just outside of the overground station (location), with more metro stations all within a short walk. Chennai Central is not the only long distance train hub in the city so make sure you check your ticket!
You can get anywhere by train in India, but train tickets sell out extremely quickly and should be purchased in advance. Either through an agency, the Ixigo app (if you have an Indian sim) or through 12Go.
Arriving by bus
As with every major city in India, there are multiple bus operators in Chennai running pretty much every route you can imagine across India. This is great, as there will almost certainly be a bus to take you to where you need to go, but confusing as there’s no real centralised way of checking all of the routes.
The buses generally fall into two categories, government buses or private companies.
Government buses
Government buses will run from centralised bus stations and are generally more “rough and ready”. Lots of them will have no aircon other than open windows and the seats will be decidedly more ‘basic’ than more expensive offerings. The government buses run more short routes (please remember that this is India and “short” is a relative term. “Short” here could still mean 17 hours!), usually within the state or neighbouring states. To book tickets or to find out departure times head to the local bus station.
The main bus station in Chennai is the CMBT bus station (location) which is easily accessible by the neighbouring CMBT metro station.
There is generally very little reliable information about these buses online. Google Maps is especially terrible; showing only a few bus routes and having completely incorrect timings. This is starting to improve however and some of the state bus routes will show up for booking on the RedBus and AbhiBus apps. Still, we would recommend getting the full picture by going and asking at the bus station.
Government buses will be the most basic but, by far and away, the cheapest way to travel.
We have used government buses to travel all over southern India and found them to be a really fun and interesting way to travel, just be aware that they can get very busy!
Private buses
Private buses are run by many different companies and serve all manner of long distance destinations. These can be booked online in advance via 12GO, Abhibus, Redbus or by Googling the specific company. These buses will be more expensive, usually air conditioned and may involve seats or beds on the longer routes. Just be aware when booking the tickets to check the pick up and drop off points as they are often not obvious.
We have had some tense moments waiting at 11pm on the side of seemingly random roundabouts hoping that a bus we booked would turn up! They always did show up for us but it is worth remembering that you may have to take a trip somewhere strange just to catch the bus! Similarly the drop off can be…random…on one occasion we selected a central Delhi destination online as our drop point but were heaved out of the bus on a side street near the airport 5km from our selected location. As with everything in India try to roll with the punches and be adaptable!
If you are a solo traveller please be cautious with the buses as you can be asked to wait for them in some pretty odd places. Also be aware when booking sleeper buses that the seats that are shown next to each other are not separate! You are booking one half of a double bed!
Travelling through India is an experience, no matter the method of transport!
Arriving by plane
Chennai’s International Airport is located in the south west of the city, and is a 40 minute metro ride away from Chennai Central station.
The airport serves domestic routes such as Bangalore, Mumbai and Delhi as well as international routes to Kuala Lumpur, Chengdu the UAE and many others.
Chennai would make a great entry point to fly in and start a southern Indian adventure.
Getting around Chennai?
Chennai Metro
Chennai’s metro system is clean, cheap and easy to use. It is also air conditioned, which we always appreciated after coming in from the southern sunshine! We hopped on the metro as nearly the first thing we did in the city after our 34 hours on a train from the north. The metro conveniently ran between the Chennai Central Railway Station and our accommodation (Elements hostel check out the accommodation section later), near the Pachaiyappa's College Metro.
The metro currently has three operational lines, Green, Grey and Blue. The grey route runs from Chennai Central all the way to the airport. The Green runs the same route but splits off just before the airport. The Blue route runs roughly north to south, up the coast to the north and coming inland in the south.
Confusingly the official maps online show far more lines than this but they are still under construction at the moment. Google Maps shows the correct lines and departure times.
To buy a ticket just walk up to the counter and state your destination. The tickets are very cheap. Our journeys ranged from 5 rupee per person to 30 rupees depending on the distance. We believe the fare is capped at 40 rupees per journey.
The metro operates from 4:30 am to 11pm and trains (should!) run around every 7 minutes.
Chennai’s bus network
Chennai has a massive bus network with stops everywhere. The routes cris-cross the city and weave in and around every residential and commercial area. There are literally hundreds of bus routes running throughout Chennai. This many lines does, however, mean it is very hard to find out information on any specific route! Some bus stands will have a map to guide you but most will have too many routes to display. We didn't have much luck with the official MTC app but Google does show how to get between places by bus, just don't rely on its timing information!
The buses are very cheap with the most expensive journey still only costing around 25 rupees.
Uber, taxis and ride hailing
When we explored Chennai we mainly used a combination of the metro and Uber to get around. The metro is so convenient and cheap and for anywhere not covered, there are taxis.
We always recommend booking taxis or rickshaws on a ride hailing app. This way there is no “confusion” about destination, no haggling over price and you get to enjoy the safety features and peace of mind the app’s tracking systems allow.
Also, if things do go a little sideways, we have found Uber’s customer care to be great (call us cynical, but this came as a pleasant surprise). On one occasion we got an Uber rickshaw from a shopping centre, our driver got lost, had no phone reception for maps and refused our attempts at navigation. We got out and, after a very brief online chat, had been refunded with extra credit!
Uber is not expensive in India and a great way to get out and about in the city. We found some really cool neighbourhoods with a board game cafe, lots of cool shops and amazing food just by taking an Uber to a local camera repair shop!
On the Uber app you can order both car taxis and rickshaws to get you around.
To use the Uber app you will need an Indian sim card. If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India, why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo.
Where to stay in Chennai?
Backpacker accommodation options
Elements Hostel - Book here
During our stay in Chennai we booked into a private room at the Elements hostel. Located on a quiet street a short walk from a metro station, Elements hostel was a perfect base for exploring the city. Our private room was massive, air conditioned, comfortable and even had a tiny balcony!
The staff were fantastic, helping us plan our stay in the city and route out without ever trying to push a sale. We found out all the local bus information we needed from the guys at the front desk and where others would have tried to push a tour or private transport to get to the nearby site of Mahabalipuram, Elements just told us which bus stop was best for a quick and cheap journey.
The hostel offers breakfast and a common area as well. Elements Hostel costs a little more than we were used to coming from hostels in South East Asia but compared to other local offerings it was very reasonable and definitely worth the money.
Also there is a fantastic cheap biryani place a five minute walk away!
Hostel Ghandi - Book here
This small hostel is located within walking distance of Little Mount metro station and offers both dorms and private rooms. We haven't stayed here but have heard good reports! It is also one of the only other backpacker hostels available in the city!
Other low cost options:
You can have a look here for the cheaper end of the accommodation budget in Chennai. As with anywhere, double check the reviews with Google and check you are not saving money on accommodation only to then spend it on transport!
More comfortable stays in Chennai
Just because we are backpackers doesn't mean we don't Google some nicer places to stay! Chennai being a huge hub of a city means that it has a vast range of hotels for every price point.
For international brands you have the Hilton Chennai as well as Citanes OMR Chennai and the Ibis Chennai City Centre
For all the accommodation choices in Chennai, from dorm to luxury apartment, check out our map below:
What to do in Chennai?
Fort St George
Fort St George was built in 1639 and was the first British fort in India. Starting life as a military and trading outpost for the British East India Company, the town (known then as Madras not Chennai) grew and spread away from the fortified heart of Fort St George. The fort itself played a crucial role in establishing British presence and the expansion of the Empire into India.
These days the walls of Fort St George still stand, but its interior buildings have been taken over by government offices. It now houses, perhaps fittingly, the Tamil Nadu Legislative Assembly and is the official seat of the Tamil Nadu Government.
There is a great museum inside these fortified walls explaining the history of the fort and preserving antiques and artefacts from across its past. On the ground floor there are weapons, coins and military uniforms, the first floor has oil paintings and prints and the top floor held an amazing display on the original “rebellion” flag. Raised in the early hours of the morning on India’s Independence Day in 1947, the flag has been lovingly restored and holds pride of place in its own exhibition room.
One ticket costs 300 rupees (£2.86 or $3.62) for a foreigner, but if you book online this drops to 250 rupees. You can book online from just outside the museum using QR codes as long as you have data on your Indian SIM Card or eSIM (check out Airalo for international eSIMs).
As the museum is located within close proximity to the government buildings there is a very strict entry process where you need to present your ID (passport or driving licence). Photocopies are accepted.
You cannot take photos within the museum itself but outside in the grounds is fair game!
Chennai Lighthouse and viewing platform
(location)
On the shore of the Bay of Bengal rises a strange triangular structure. One hundred and fifty feet tall and painted in angular blocks of red and white the Chennai Lighthouse.
It is not a “tradtional” looking lighthouse!
This is actually the third or fourth lighthouse in Chennai (depending how you want to count them). The first was a lantern on the walls of Fort St George which was replaced by lanterns on a column in the grounds of the High Court building. Then, the ornate dome of the High court was converted into a lighthouse, guiding warships through World War Two. Finally in 1977 the current tower was brought into service.
Today you can visit the tower and take an elevator to a viewing platform. The view from the top is great with the sea spreading out eastwards and the city on all other compass points around. The view spread out below, a sea of crowds and colour; apartment blocks with their roofs filled with drying washing butted up next to the working shoreline and busy roads of the city.
Whilst we were at the top of the tower we were lucky enough to be joined by a hunting eagle (maybe a hawk, we are no natural twitchers), who soared around the viewing platform a few times before diving into scattering flocks of pigeons below.
Chennai is….not small…
The lighthouse costs 50 rupees per person (£0.47 or $0.60) and a further 25 rupees per camera (phones do not count). It is definitely worth the price for the high rise perspective!
The lighthouse is open between 10 am and 1pm and then again from 3pm until 5:30pm every day except for Mondays when it is closed. As always these times can be affected by any of the many festivals in southern India so check before you go!
Getting to the lighthouse will require either a walk, an Uber or a local bus as it is not near any metro stations. There are overground train stations - Light House Railway Station (15 minute walk) and Mundakakanni (20 minute walk), but we are unsure how often the trains run to and from them.
Kapaleeshawara / Kapaleeswarar Temple
(location)
South of the lighthouse, sits the incredible Kapaleeshawara Temple. This amazing holy site was one of our favourite places we came across in our time in Chennai.
If you walk to the temple like we did, you will be winding through small side streets, tall buildings either side when suddenly the view opens up and you are greeted by the amazing sight of the temple entrance. Steps of blue rise up and up in a tall flat topped entrance pyramid (called a Gopura). Each step is crowded with beautifully sculpted figures.
The figures depict gods, demons, stories and legends from the sacred texts of Hinduism all brought to life in vivid colours. You can look forever at these gateways and still see new things!
To the left of the entrance (before you go in) is a little kiosk to store your shoes. We donated 100 rupees to store our shoes. This donation was the only “expense” of seeing this temple and you could give whatever you want.
As you pass under the Gopura the temple courtyard opens up in front of you. Kapaleeshawara temple is an example of Dravidian Hindu architecture, iconic of southern India. Four massive colourful Gopura gate houses sit along the square walls surrounding the courtyards and inner temples and sanctuaries.
It was amazing to walk barefoot through the holy grounds. Everywhere we turned there were stunning carvings, sculptures and buildings. The site of the temple is meant to be over 1300 years old, having its foundation somewhere in the 7th century CE. The Kapaleeshawara Temple is one of the oldest in Chennai and highly revered as a place of worship.
Like many temples in India the central holy sanctuary is for Hindu’s only and some areas are not to be photographed. The dress code for the temple is, as with all holy sites, strictly enforced - no shorts, no short skirts, no crop tops and shoulders are to be covered. It is an active site of worship so do not be surprised if you are turned away or given a cover up if you turn up without the proper clothing! Seriously, we are always surprised how many tourists seem to think the rules do not apply to them. If you cannot dress appropriately then don't go to a holy place. Thailand to Lao, Italy to India it is not that difficult!.
The Kapaleeshawara temple has a final treat to those who do come there. On the opposite side to the main entrance is a doorway that leads to the temple tank. This is not some kind of Hindu military equipment but rather a beautiful reservoir. The tank is a massive square of stone steps leading down to the water's edge. On every side of the reservoir, small shrines pop up from the bank whilst in the centre of the lake sits an ornate white building. It is just another beautiful treat from a stunning temple.
You can get to the temple on foot or by Uber. We combined a walk from the Lighthouse with the temple and the nearby Santhome Cathedral. Speaking of which…
Santhome Cathedral Basilica
(location)
Close to the shore in the south of Chennai lies the impressive Catholic Santhome Cathedral. Originally built in 1521-1523 by the Portuguese. The site was chosen as it is the supposed resting place of St Thomas the Apostle who was said to have travelled to South Asia to spread Christianity. The Cathedral is also a Basilica - a church elevated by a Pope to confer special status.
The Basilica was remodelled / renovated by the British in 1896 into its current form. It sits, slightly incongruously amid the India businesses and massive Tsunami Township apartment building. The Santhome Cathedral sticks out amongst its neighbours, a towering white neo-gothic cathedral amid apartments and Indian streets. Its presence is a reminder of the strong catholic community in southern India.
Inside the cathedral is a large vaulted ceiling and rows of wooden pews sitting under electric fans. Paintings stare down from the walls and multicoloured light shines through stained glass windows. The familiar saints and Maria are all there, but in deference to their Indian location, they are decked out in wreaths of colourful flowers.
Behind the cathedral is the Tomb of St Thomas itself. We did not go there on our exploration as a queue of the faithful were waiting and we didn't really think it was our place to interrupt their prayers.
The cathedral is open every day between 6am and 11pm with services being held at 6am, 11am and 6pm Monday-Saturday and 6am, 9am, and 5pm on Sundays (celebration days may be different).
Kaalikambal Kamadeswarar Temple and the Mannadi district
(location)
We love a bit of impromptu exploration, so one day we decided to just pick a temple from Google maps and go for a wander. We picked the Kaalikambal Kamadeswarar Temple and set off. We hopped onto the metro and rode it to Mannadi Station. From there we headed off of the busy main road and into the Mannadi district.
We hate to be vague and wishy-washy but Mannadi just had a fun feel to it. Stuffed full of shops and traders selling everything from colourful scarves and sari’s to delicious samosas and metalwork. It was a thriving busy area full of noise and people but we loved it. It had so many of those “Indian moments” where you are reminded that; where you are is not like anywhere else in the world.
We were wandering down a side road, eating delicious newspaper wrapped vegetable samosas (that cost less than 10p each!) when our way was blocked by a traffic jam of bull drawn carts. The massive steers with their huge, sharp pointed horns wandered lazily along the road towing their flatbed trailers. On the towed carts a few men lounged in the morning sun sharing a smoke. I’m sure we are romanticising this and it was definitely a common sight in Mannadi, but for a couple of Londoners it was a beautiful reminder of where we were - a very long way from Streatham High Road.
A common traffic hazzard in India!
Cows and Bulls always have right of way!
The Mannadi district winds away from the Metro and main road and there are loads of shops, restaurants and small temples to explore. It is not an upmarket or trendy destination, just a genuine friendly neighbourhood. We loved wandering its streets, especially when they held a (probably not really) hidden treasure.
The Kaalikambal Kamadeswarar Temple is stunning, smaller than the Kapaleeshwarar Temple to the south but sharing in its architectural style. Large gopura entrances rise up on the two street side entrances each one crammed with sculptures and carvings in all the colours of the rainbow.
We loved finding temples in the south of India, they all seemed so colourful and impressive, Holy yet welcoming. We cannot recommend our exploration strategy enough. Just find a temple that looks interesting on Google maps and then explore your way there!
Chennai Beach
Ok let's get the obvious point out the way first. Chennai beach is not one we would recommend for sunbathers and swimmers. The vast beach stretches all along the coast of the city and, at various points, is an industrial dock, fishing port and container terminal. The beach, unsurprisingly, is not always pristine to put it mildly. We did see people standing in the surf and a couple of swimmers but despite the 35 + degree heat (that is 95 + to our Fahrenheit friends), we had no desire to join them.
The beach itself is enormous, stretching both up and down the coast as well as from land to sea. You can walk for several minutes from the road and still not get your feet wet. The further south you get the more…used.. the beach becomes with fishing boats, nets and the aftermath of catches strewn across the sand. Areas of the beach are better maintained than others with some being relatively clean but others having rubbish dumped everywhere.
So you are not swimming at the beach, what are you doing then? The answer is eating! The beach in the evenings comes alive with stalls, restaurants and snack vendors. It is almost an unofficial town square for the city!
Fairground rides open up and thousands gather on the sands in the evening. The most popular spots are Marina beach and Ghandi Beach (location) running up north of the lighthouse and south of the container port. During the day they are quiet and the stalls are shut but once the sun goes down everything opens up!
The stalls are closed during the day, just waiting for the evening!
The beach is massive so how you get to it depends on where you want to be, one thing to bear in mind however is that the station “Chennai Beach” is not on or near the beaches we are talking about (or any other beaches really). Chennai beach railway station serves the port and container terminal, not the beaches themselves.
We would recommend taking the Metro to the Government Estate stop (Blue line) then either walking (25 minutes) or Ubering to the beach from there. This would get you at the top of the night time strip and you could walk your way downwards. Alternatively you could do this in reverse, and get an Uber down to the lighthouse and wander upwards!
Shopping in Chennai
Chennai is a great place to refresh your wardrobe or treat yourself to a present. A thriving modern city, Chennai has all the major chains, outlets and brands as well as plenty of local artisan shops.
We needed a few clothes items and so made our way to the VR Mall (location).
Once inside and past the rigorous security (no cameras allowed) we found ourselves in a huge but calm shopping mall. There are Apple stores and other electronics, hairdressers and all manner of clothes shops, both international and Indian.
We were only there for H&M and to have a nose around the Sketchers and Levis stalls but the Mall has over 200 shops as well as loads of international and local restaurants, arcades and cinemas. If you have children and have museumed them out then this would be a great little reward for them!
For us it was a useful place to restock on t-shirts and other essentials…we definitely didn't have a Mcdonalds…no…definitely not….
Parks in Chennai
Like Delhi, Chennai is a surprisingly green city with plenty of public parks providing a break from the sun soaked streets.
Shenoy Nagar / Thiru Vi Ka Park
(location)
Our accommodation was nearby to the Shenoy Nagar park (also known as Thiru Vi Ka Park) and it became our go-to park to wander around when we needed some greenery. In the north there is a separate skating park (roller not ice!) with a large rink. The main park is a large oval surrounded by roads. The park is well maintained and has play areas and sporting arenas. Shenoy Nagar park is open in the mornings and evenings (usually around 5-9am and then 5pm until late) as there are schools that use the sporting facilities. In the evenings the roads around the park have lots of street vendors and food to graze on.
If you are staying at Elements hostel it is a short walk to the park, if not then the Metro is the easiest way here as it literally comes out into the park. The metro station is Shenoy Nagar (big surprise) on the blue line.
Chennai Botanical Gardens - Semmozhi Poonga
Honesty time, we did not get to go to the botanical gardens! We ran out of time but we wish we had, they look really lovely and would make a great escape from the city heat.
The botanical gardens are in the south of the city and sit equidistant between the Thousand Light (18 minute walk) and AG DMS (15 minute walk) Metro stations on the Blue line.
The opening times of Semmozhi Poonga Botanical Gardens are:
10am - 7:30pm every day except Tuesday
Tuesday - Closed
The ticket prices (according to the internet :P) are very low with adults only reportedly costing 15 rupees with a camera charge of 25 rupees
Other Chennai attractions
We did not have enough time in Chennai, not by a long shot. We were there for 3 nights and could easily have spent a week or longer in this amazing city. If we were to visit again here are a few more things we would do:
The Botanical Gardens - As we mentioned above the botanical gardens would be a fantastic way to escape the city and wallow in a bit of nature.
The Chennai Railway Museum (location) - We unironically love a little railway museum, we have been to the Delhi National Railway museum as well as the Sri Lankan Railway Museum at Kadugannawa and made a trip to the Demodara loop in the Sri Lankan central Highlands. We are not anoraks and couldn’t tell a diesel from an electric engine but for some reason we always like wandering around trains!
We missed out on the Chennai Railway museum but if we have a spare morning next time we will definitely check it out!
Also if you have small humans with you, the ticket includes a ride on the toy train!
The railway museum is, ironically, not really near any metro or railway so we would recommend catching an Uber / Taxi there. The nearest stations seem to be a good 45 / 50 minute walk away.
The Chennai Railway Museum is open every day except Monday and festival days between 10am and 5:30pm
Entrance costs are listed on the website at 40 rupees for those above the age of 12 and 15 rupees for those between 3 and 12. Cameras cost 100 rupee more to bring in.
Other museums:
There are scores more museums to check out in Chennai, from photography to bronze work, policing to palaeontology there are far too many museums to list here. Chennai is a massive city and has something for just about anyone. Here are just a few:
Sightseeing and tours in Chennai
If you are after a little more knowledge and want to be shown around the sights with a local expert, or if you want a good way of combining attractions without having to sort it all out yourself, consider an organised tour. Get Your Guide has lots of tour options within Chennai that can whisk you around all the most interesting and important sights. Have a look below for some ideas:
Day Trips from Chennai
Chennai is very well placed to be a base for day trips in South India, there are a couple of great destinations you can easily get to within a day from the big city. We would highly recommended the following:
Mahabalipuram
A 2 hour bus journey from Chennai CMBT lies the amazing cave temples and ruins of Mahabalipuram.
Mahabalipuram is covered in ancient temples, rock reliefs and shrines.
Just hop on any of the many daily buses from the CMBT (location). Enjoy the ride down the coast and jump off at Mahabalipuram junction (location). From the junction it is a short walk into the town and the all the sights. The bus is very cheap, costing only 65 rupees per person each way.
The town itself is full of restaurants, resorts and beachfront activities. The ruins are incredible and a real treat to explore. Entrance for foreigners was 600 each (£5.69 or £7.21) for all of the historic sights. Mahabalipuram was amazing and a fantastic day out from the city.
If you do not want to organise this all for yourself you can definitely get a tour to Mahabalipuram from Chennai - check out the links below for some ideas:
Pondicherry
South of Chennai lies the old French colonial town of Pondicherry / Puducherry. To do this as a day trip would be a long day but, with an early enough start, you could definitely make it. Jump on the bus or train from Chennai. The bus takes around four hours and costs 190 rupee each (£1.80 or $2.28). The trains are more limited in departure times but can, if you get the right one, get you there in 3 hours. Depending on what class tickets you get and on what train you can pay anywhere from 95 rupees (slow train 3rd class) to 555 rupees (fast train 1st class). Just check and book ahead of time as they only run a few times a day and the slow train can take six hours! You can book online with IXAGO (with an Indian sim or eSIM, or with 12GO
Pondicherry is a beautiful town full of quaint streets, fantastic European style architecture, cafes, bakeries and restaurants. It is 100% worth a visit and if you don't have time to stay there like we did, then you should make the effort for a day trip!.
The French Quarter of Pondicherry is stunning!
Another option if you want things arranged for you or you are short on time is an organised tour. Check out these for example:
Where to eat in Chennai?
Chennai, like so much of India, is an absolute treat for foodies. From high end to low end, back alley biriyani, to posh poke bowls, fisherman’s restaurants to fine dining the city always has something to offer.
In our short time in the city we ate at some incredible places here are some of our top recommendations for dining in Chennai:
Meenavan Unavagam Seafood
(location)
This is a special one! Located very much south of any of the touristy attractions, this busy little restaurant came to our attention via YouTube. One of our favourite foodtubers, Max Mcfarlin had clued us into this small fisherman’s restaurant.
Out of the way and set far from any metro station (we had a hot long walk down a rather unlovely stretch of the beach to reach it), this restaurant attracts a dedicated clientele and rewards them with incredible seafood.
Like so many great food places, it doesn't look like much from the outside. Just another very busy little restaurant on a working piece of seafront. We managed to wedge ourselves onto a little table inside and were quickly greeted by a friendly man with a plate full of enormous fish.
We selected our fish from the plate and it was sent off to the tawa for frying. We also opted for some masala shrimp to go alongside it. A banana leaf was placed in front of us and filled with rice, a boiled egg, veggies and two types of curry. This was swiftly joined by our main dishes. It was a glorious sight.
The fish has been basted, more like plastered, in masala and spice then grilled on the tawa until it was crisp and charred on the outside but flakey, sweet and soft within. The spice coating turned the whole fish a deep crimson orange. The prawns were nearly black in their sauce and were utterly delicious, we learned that the prawns are a signature of the restaurant and we can see why. Deeply spiced and rich but with the perfect prawn sweetness.
The meal was eaten greedily and with our hands. The sweet fish mixing with the prawns, rice and curries on the banana leaf was perfect. It is to this day one of our favourite meals on our entire adventure.
Two banana leaf curries, rice, chutneys, sambal, prawns and whole cooked fish big enough for two cost us the princely sum of 530 rupees (£5.03 or $6.37)!
We cannot recommend this enough. If you have an adventurous soul you are definitely rewarded. We can imagine lots of people would walk past this kind of restaurant or chicken out at the thought of shellfish fresh in the Indian sun; these people will lose out and never get to try such wonderful fresh seafood as this!
Safa Biriyani
(location)
If you are staying at Elements hostel (or even if you're not!) Safa Biriyani is an essential dinner stop. Five minutes walk up the road brings you to this unassuming biriyani joint. We have not eaten nearly enough biryani to claim this as the best in the city or the south but what we can say is that we did not eat any better!
The chicken biriyani is divine, with spice and rich chickeny flavour coating every grain of rice. Served with a boiled egg alongside yoghurt and onions it is a near perfect mix of comforting rice, deep spice and refreshing crunch. The grilled chicken is also incredible, with juicy meat and crisp skin all paired with amazing sauces.
You know it looks good!
The portions are huge and we felt so greedy but we each easily polished off a whole biriyani each!
It is also very backpacker budget friendly with two biryanis and two waters coming in at 290 rupee (£2.75 or $3.48), you cannot argue with dinner and a drink for less than £1.40 per person!
Lyfe Cafe
(location)
sometimes you need a little home comfort in an air conditioned room. Sometimes in India you just want a fresh salad or some pasta. For us this hit after 34 hours on a train eating Idli from trays on our knees.
Luckily for us our hostel was very near to the Lyfe cafe which serves all manner of salads, hummus, pizza and pasta. Alongside the Western fare it serves Indian favourites and even some Mexican offerings!
We had a lovely fresh feta salad and plate of pasta arrabiata and it was just the ticket after a long long train journey full of Indian snacks and not enough food!
Lyfe cafe is considerably more expensive than the other offerings on this list but sometimes you do need to treat yourself to something familiar! Our meal of a huge salad, plate of pasta and two special iced teas cost 1145 rupee (£10.86 or $13.76)
Brew and Sip Coffee
(location)
If you are in the area around the Cathedral or Kapaleeshwarar Temple and are in need of a caffeine fix then we highly recommend this little roadside coffee shop.
We were tired, we were hot, we hadn't had a coffee in 48 hours and were having withdrawal symptoms. Just as we were starting to despair we spotted Brew and Sip on Google maps a few streets away.
We sat in its beautifully air conditioned (again over 35 degrees C / 95 F on that day) little cafe room whilst the lovely owner made us two cups of speciality Madrasi drip coffee. Served in small metal cups inside little metal trays these coffees hit the spot instantly. That wonderful bitter combination of nutty chocolatey coffee with rich roasted flavour was just what we needed.
We have no idea why hot coffee is so good on a sweltering day but it really is! Our stop at Brew and Sip was just what was needed. Fully caffeinated and with a few selfies with the owner later we were back to exploring the city.
The coffees in Brew and Sip are very reasonably priced. Our Madrasi filter coffees cost us 85 rupees each (£0.81 or $85.00). This may seem a lot considering the above options but proper coffee in India always comes at a premium!
Street stalls and street food
Chennai is a city stuffed with street eating options. As we have said before, just get stuck in and you will be rewarded by more flavours than you can ever hope to have if you just stay with Western hotel food.
There are loads of tasty vendors around Shenoy Nagar park and station. Including one (no Google listing) that served us up an amazing banana leaf thali from his cart. We were charged only 100 rupees each (and this was still probably the foreigner price) for a massive meal of rice, 3 types of vegetable curry all served with pickles and chutneys.
If you ever are a little peckish in India, look for the bakeries! We have some delicious samosa stuffed with spiced potato and coriander from a random hole in the wall in Mannadi. The crispy yet soft samosas were under 10p each and a perfect hearty snack to keep us exploring.
We have said it before in our food articles, just be brave, and exercise common sense and street food truly is some of the best cuisine in the world.
If you want to be guided through and taken to some off the beaten path eats check out the street food tours available on Get Your Guide. We didn’t have a chance on our stay but next time we 100% will be going on a food tour. Chennai is just too delicious.
Final thoughts
Chennai blew all of our expectations away. We had come from the amazing holy city of Varanasi unsure of what to expect in southern India and Chennai had charmed us with its people, entertained us with its sights and bewitched us with its cuisine. We did not spend enough time in Chennai but this is a mistake we plan on correcting on our next visit. The city is huge, alternately modern and ancient and has a beautiful, friendly and young seeming population.
From historic sights to modern architecture, seafood to street food and excellent transport Chennai made for a brilliant introduction to the south of India.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The National Railway Museum of Delhi
If you’re looking for something different to do in Delhi, check out the National Railway Museum. This open air train yard is stuffed full of engines, exhibits, turntables and carriages and is a great day out or adults and children alike! Read our guide for all the information you need for visiting this train filled wonderland.
Nestled in the southwest of India’s capital city of Delhi is the National Railway Museum. Housing an incredible collection of trains, carriages, station fixtures and historical memorabilia, the museum chronicles the amazing, turbulent and inspiring history of India massive railway network. This is our guide to getting the most out of the National Railway Museum of Delhi, even if you are not a train person!
India is criss-crossed from north to south, west to east with a vast railway network that covers the entire country. From the tropical backwaters of Kerala in the very south, to the Himalayan peaks high up in the north, India’s train network is a marvel of engineering. The railways are a circuit board wiring through the country; firing people, produce and ideas across the enormous Indian subcontinent.
At some point travelling through this massive country, you’re bound to find yourself on this huge railway network. What better way is there to learn about the history of India’s trains than a visit to the National Railway Museum in Delhi?
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Where is the National Railway Museum?
The National Railway Museum is located here, in the southwest of Delhi near Nehru Park and Safdarjung’s Tomb.
If you are visiting the National Railway Museum do not miss out on the nearby Safdarjung’s tomb. This magnificent Mughal mausoleum is known as the “mini-Taj Mahal” and is 100% worth visiting. Make sure you check out our guide here.
The easiest way to get to the National Railway Museum is by rickshaw. We always recommend using a ride hailing app like Uber or Ola to avoid annoying price negotiations or being scammed. We paid 78 rupees (under £1.00) for the 4 kilometre ride from our hostel in Mohammadpur, south Delhi.
You will need a Sim card with mobile data to use ride hailing apps. If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India, why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo. Just make sure you install the App and eSIM before getting into the country!
For those wanting to travel to the railway museum by public transport, the nearest train station is Delhi Safdarjung. Once you have arrived at the station the museum is a twenty minute walk, or a very quick rickshaw drive away.
The nearest Metro to the National Railway Museum is Sir M. Vishweshwaraiah Moti Bagh on the Pink line. The metro is, like the train station, twenty minutes walk away but there are always plenty of rickshaws outside the Metro stations.
Ticket prices at the National Railway Museum
We paid 100 rupees (£0.95 or $1.25) each for entry to the museum.
Museum opening times
The National Railway Museum is open every day except Monday. The opening hours are between 10am and 4:30pm.
Holidays and festivals may affect these times so double check if you are visiting on a festival day!
Our day visiting the National Railway Museum
We are not really “train people”, we like them as much as the next person (provided the next person is not this guy), but have no special interest in them. We have found during our travels that train museums tend to be a lot of fun and a great way into the history of a country. This is especially true if that country used to be under the yoke of the British. The development of railways as colonial tools and their repurposing after independence as national infrastructure always tells an interesting story.
After days spent in the busy Red Fort and crowded alleys of Chandni Chowk we felt like a quiet afternoon poking around a train yard would be just the ticket (ba-dum-tish), so we set off to get our geek on.
Delhi’s National Railway Museum is a fantastic jumble of trains, carriages, signals and all manner of other railway infrastructure. Set across 11 acres it is full to the brim of exhibits and things to do. There are soooo many train carriages, cars and engines to look at, the map of the museum shows 80 artifacts scattered across the grounds.
The museum is mainly outside (for obvious reasons), with a huge train yard full of exhibits leading away from the entrance. We decided to start our afternoon of train based geekery in the museums indoor exhibitions, which are housed in a nicely air conditioned building at the rear of the rail yard (near the entrance / exit).
The indoor exhibitions are the most traditionally “museumy” part of the National Railway Museum. The displays are full of cutaway models, explanations of how things work and interactive dioramas. This all sounds very dry but it was done in an engaging way and we happily wandered around the exhibits, flitting between things that caught our attention. One such attention grabber was a display showing the most impressive marvels of mountain railway engineering to be found in India.
The north of India borders the Himalayas and the railways that climb up into these regions have to be very specialised. They also have to run through some absolutely jaw-dropping scenery. It was here in this exhibit we decided we needed to travel to Shimla by the Himalayan Queen railway, so you know it left an impact!
Outside, in the main rail yard of the museum, we bounced between massive steam trains, tiny hand operated rail carts, princely state trains and modern diesel locomotives. If you are into your trains this would be a sweet shop full of wonders. The rail yard is centred around several huge railway turntables. We were blown away with just how large these railway lazy-susans had to be!
We are sure there is a technical name for the spinny train turn tables!
The star of the show has to be the engines, they come in every shape and size, from sleek and elegant to brutal and blocky. The best part (at least for some overgrown children amongst us) was that you can get in and walk about in nearly every exhibit. You can walk through the old first class carriages or, more importantly, clamber up into the driver's seat of the enormous old steam locomotives!
We do not know nearly enough about trains to have got the most out of what we were seeing but it was great fun climbing into and around these gigantic engineering masterpieces. It is worth pointing out that there are some exhibits in need of some love. Towards the back of the park is what once must have been, an amazing model railway. Replica stations, tracks and landmarks spread over a huge diorama this model must have been fantastic in its prime. To put it mildly, it has seen better days, but we hope it will be restored to its former glory someday! Even with the occasional run down exhibit, the museum is still in great shape and it is amazing to see so many historical trains so well preserved and cared for.
The Railway Museum would also make a great trip out with kids in Delhi, there are lots of children focused displays, Engines to climb in and pretend to drive and even a miniature railway to ride!
There is a restaurant in the centre of the museum's rail yard, set high above one of the turn tables. There are also a couple of snack shops and toilets scattered through the museum.
Conclusion
The National Railway Museum of India is a great morning or afternoon out. It is something different to do in the Indian capital if you have had your fill of ancient sites, busy markets and hectic streets. We found it to be a relaxed and fun way to learn about the enormous Indian rail system and its turbulent history.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
Indian Railways - Booking Tickets
If you’ve enjoyed reading about the Indian Rail network and want to take a ride on this vast train network, then make sure you book your tickets well in advance of your planned date of departure.
Train tickets sell out extremely quickly in India and depending on the length of your journey, you almost certainly won’t want to spend 15 plus hours sharing a carriage with half of Rajasthan in general class!
To book tickets online and in advance, we’d recommend using 12Go. Click here to book your tickets!
Check out our other railway articles!
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The Lodhi Garden And Khan Market - An Escape From Delhi’s Busy Streets
Delhi is a hectic city and sometimes you need a green escape or a strong cup of coffee. Read our guide to the beautiful Lodhi Gardens and the nearby Khan Market. The gardens are full of tranquil lawns, ancient monuments and quiet nooks and the Khan Market will cater for all of your coffee, fashion or sweet treat needs. A trip here is the perfect escape in India’s busy capital.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Delhi is a chaotic capital, its old town jam packed with people, produce, rickshaws and stalls not to mention the occasional wandering bovine. Delhi can really grind you down, its constant thrum of activity, noise, smell and heat can be overwhelming. Delhi however has a softer side, it is a surprisingly green city once you get out of the old town, full of beautiful manicured parks and leafy suburbs. If you are looking for a more calm day out in Delhi then we would recommend the Lodhi Garden and nearby Khan Market.
What is the Lodhi Garden?
The Lodhi Garden is a beautiful landscaped park full of ancient tombs and ruins. It has exercise machines, running tracks, walking paths, gardens and lawns. It is a true oasis of greenery and calm, a tranquil place to relax and unwind in the Indian capital.
History of the Lodhi Garden
Lodhi Garden is a comparatively recent (at least in terms of India’s vast history) addition to Delhi. The area, ruins and tombs were once dotted around the village Khairpur on the periphery of New Delhi. The area was cleared and the people moved in the 1930’s and the park was built connecting the ruins together and planting native trees and flowers. This being the era of British rule, the park was originally named Lady Willingdon Park after the then Viceroy’s wife. As India threw off the shackles of Empire and gained Independence the parks name was changed to the Lodhi Garden
The name Lodhi comes from one of the dynasties whose tombs are found in the gardens, there are others from the Mughal and Sayyid rulers. The tombs of the garden are amazing, huge structures fantastically preserved and open to the public.
It is one of the things that never gets old or ceases to surprise in Delhi, you can just be walking through a public park, or backstreet and be confronted by a beautiful ancient monument. There is history scattered everywhere in the Indian capital.
In Delhi you’re never far from a bit of history!
Please note that, like so many things translated out of a non-roman alphabet, there are multiple spellings of Lodhi. The two most common are “Lodhi” and Lodi”. In this article we are using Lodhi for the garden / park and Lodi for the Sultan whose name it bears. Confusing we know but whoever said India was simple!
Visiting the Lodhi Garden
The Lodhi Garden is the perfect antidote if you have overdosed on city chaos in Delhi. We came here a few times across our three visits to the Indian capital and it always succeeded in being a calming reset after the hubbub and frenetic pace of the city outside.
We would recommend just wandering (we usually do) around the park randomly, it is the best way to have the area surprise you! Wherever you arrive from, north south east or west, you will enter the park not far from one of the ancient buildings.
To the north you have the eponymous Tomb of Sikandar Lodi. This incredibly octagonal tomb is (according to the internet at least) the earliest example of a garden tomb in India. It is an amazing structure set within a courtyard and, like everything in the Lodhi Garden, free to enter and explore.
In the centre of the park is the Sheesh Gumbad (also spelt Shish or Shisha depending on who is writing). Rising up out of the park’s central green lawns this massive tomb/mosque is impossible to miss. The giant domed cube building seems out of place, like a rock in a green ocean, it is strange to think of it being surrounded by buildings and a village in the past.
Inside the building is huge with the decorated domed ceiling towering above. The arched openings on each of the four sides frame different views of the park and are very popular with selfie-taking locals (and tourists!). The whole of the park is ridiculously photogenic and a very popular spot for Indian wedding photoshoots. This in turn makes it a great people watching location!
Just to the south of the Sheesh Gumbad is the Bada Gumbad (or Bara Gumbad, why does everything have 3 spellings….). Literally translating to “Big Dome” the Bada Gumbad lives up to its name. With a similar style to the Sheesh Gumbad, this massive square building is thought to be one of, or even the, earliest full domed building in Delhi. Its exact purpose is unclear, it shares a form with the Sheesh Gumbad tomb but no tomb has been uncovered. One theory is that it is possibly an ornate entrance to…
The Jama Masjid, or Friday Mosque that sits next to and joined with the Bada Gumbad. This mosque and ancient pavilion are beautifully preserved with amazing islamic carvings and a very photogenic avenue of columns!
The arches and columns of the mosque are intricately decorated with stunning calligraphy and geometric designs.
At the southern end of the park is the oldest tomb, the Tomb of Muhammed Shah. This is another incredible octagonal tomb ringed by a covered walkway. Again it is beautiful corner of the park to quietly spend a minute in the company of history.
Throughout the park there are many more structures and ruins, with old walls, mosques and other tombs scattered around. The Lodhi Garden is a great place just to have a wander around. There are also dedicated yoga lawns, if that is your thing, as well as rose gardens, herb gardens and exercise machines (if you are some kind of masochist who likes working out in the 34 degree heat). In the trees above and skittering across the lawns are all manner of birds, chipmunks and squirrels. You will frequently see one of Delhi’s large eagle populations spiralling overhead. You can wander around the parklands, take selfies with ancient ruins and relax on manicured lawns, all within the heart of one of the busiest cities on earth!
The Lodhi Garden is a fantastic place to cool off from the pace of Delhi, it can get busy but it is large enough that we never felt crowded there.
Tips for visiting the Lodhi Garden
How to get to Lodhi Garden
Like most things in Delhi the easiest way to get to the Lodhi Garden is by rickshaw. If you have an Indian SIM card, Uber works very well in the capital and is a very cheap way to get around. You can also easily flag down a rickshaw from the street just be wary to set a price first and keep your wits about you to avoid any rickshaw scams . We would recommend using Uber or Ola as you don't need to negotiate and can see the route you are taking to your destination, this stops most of the common scams before they start. If you haven’t got an Indian SIM, have a look at our guide here.
If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India, why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo. Just make sure you install the SIM and app before you land in India.
The nearest metro stations to the Lodhi Garden are Jorbagh on the Yellow line and Khan Market on the Violet line. Both will require a little walk to reach the Lodhi Garden with Jorbagh being the closer of the two (12 minutes walk vs 15 minutes).
How much does it cost to visit the Lodhi Garden?
Nothing, Zilch, Nada. Once you have made your way there it is a free public park. All the monuments are open and there are no entrance costs or ticket barriers to walk around and admire the tombs and ruins! It is a very budget friendly destination.
How long should I spend at the Lodhi Garden?
We hate this question as there is no right answer. Google states you can walk from one end of the park to the other in 20 minutes but this is nowhere near enough time to explore the park properly. We spent well over an hour and sometimes over two on most of our visits to Lodhi gardens but you could easily spend longer if you wanted to relax on the lawns and take a break from the city, maybe even bring a picnic?
Are there toilets at Lodhi Garden?
Yes and they are clean and well maintained. Ellie has tested and approves!
Is there food and drink at Lodhi Garden?
There is no “official” food and drink at the gardens but there are ice cream, chat, snack and drink vendors at every entrance to the park. There are also wandering chat sellers within the park. They are a sight to see, balancing huge pots of lentils and fried goods on their heads before setting up a temporary shop on their spindally portable tripods! The gardens are also nearby to Khan Market (see later on) which has plenty of upmarket food options.
If you are being frugal, do as the locals do and pack a picnic. Just make sure you don't leave any rubbish as the park was pristine when we visited!
What else is there to do after the Lodhi Garden?
There are stacks of things to do in the Indian capital. The Lodhi gardens is located just between the incredible Safdarjung Tomb and the Khan Market. These three together would make a great day out in Delhi. Check out our experience at Safdarjung’s Tomb here .
The Khan Market
If you are looking for an upscale lunch, posh coffee or even an artisan cake after exploring the Lodhi gardens, then the Khan Market has you covered. This high end district is stuffed full of designer brand clothes stores, jewellers and electronics. The Khan Market also boasts many luxurious restaurants offering everything from high end takes on traditional street food to wood fired pizza. If you have been missing some of the luxuries of home (or just really want a good pizza) then the Khan Market can help. In the evening the area comes alive with cocktail lounges and bars where monied Delhiities come out to unwind. It is not a very budget friendly area but sometimes you do just need to treat yourself! We enjoyed some excellent coffees and pastries in the Khan Market after a day out at Safdarjung’s Tomb and the Lodhi Gardens and the good coffee and strong air conditioning was just what we needed. It is also a fun area to go window shopping in, the elegant high end sari shops and avant garde fashion outlets are just fun to have a snoop in!
How to get to the Khan Market
The Khan Market is a 10 minute walk from the northern entrance to Lodhi Gardens or a quick rickshaw ride from the south! You can see it on the map here. The market also has its own metro station (Khan Market Metro) on the Violet line.
The Lodhi Art District
South of the Lodhi Gardens is the Lodhi art district. A few blocks of buildings that have exploded into a riot of colour and art. The last housing estate to have been built by the British has now been taken over by the artists of India with over 50 murals and street art pieces. We have seen street art districts around the world and they never fail to impress us with the inventiveness and talent on display.
If you’d like to learn more about the Lodhi Art District and the street art of Delhi, then why not look at booking this Get Your Guide tour?
How to get to the Lodhi Art District
You can find the art district here. It is 1km ( 15 minute) walk away from Lodhi Garden.
Where to stay? Hotels near Lodhi Garden
Located just 35 minutes drive away from Delhi Indira Ghandi International Airport, the leafy suburbs surrounding the Lodhi Garden and Khan Market would make a great base to explore some of south Delhi’s attractions.
Check out the map below to see what accommodation is on offer:
Other things to do in Delhi
Further afield (but never really more than a cheap uber away) Delhi has tons to offer, from the ancient observatory of Jantar Mantar to the splendor of Humayun’s Tomb there is never a shortage of things to do in the Indian capital. For all our Dehi articles check out our links at the bottom of this post.
Tours in Delhi
If you are short on time or like to be guided by experts then a tour of Delhi may be the best way to make the most of your stay.
For tours of Delhi itself have a look at Get Your Guide below who offer many expert led itineraries in the Indian capital.
For the foodies amongst you we cannot recommend “A Chefs Tour” highly enough. Their tour of the historic Chandni Chowk market was one of our highlights in the whole of India. Check them out here.
Final thoughts on Lodhi Gardens and the Khan Market
Delhi can sometimes be overwhelming but is always full of surprises. For every crowded marketplace there is a serene garden. Visiting Delhi is all about balancing yourself between the exciting chaos versus the calmer green spaces (very zen we know). Luckily the Indian capital has plenty to see on both sides of the excitement scale.
The Lodhi Garden and Khan Market are calm and tranquil and make for an excellent escape from the hectic streets of Old Delhi.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Qutub Minar - Delhi’s Ancient Minaret
The Qutub Minar Complex is a beautiful UNESCO World Heritage Site in southern Delhi. Full of amazing ruins, intriguing history and stunning carvings, a trip to qutub minar should be on every Delhi itinerary. Read our guide for all the information you to visit, including the nearest metro station, ticket prices and how to get the most out of your time there.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
The Indian capital of Delhi is crammed full of history, ancient sites and incredible ruins. After playing host to a string of empires, invaders and colonisers Delhi boasts a wealth of history and a unique mix of cultures. From the Muslim Empires of the Mughals, to the Hindu rulers and British invaders Delhi has taken in influences from everywhere and melded them into something uniquely Indian.
Rising against the grey skies of South Delhi is a beautiful example of the Muslim architecture of India, the Qutub Minar.
What is the Qutub Minar?
The Qutub Minar can also be spelled Qutb Minar or Qutab Minar, confusing to google but understandable when its name has been translated out of a non-roman alphabet.
The Qutub Minar is a giant minaret tower, standing over 70 metres tall and having over 300 steps to the top. The Qutub Minar is also a “victory tower” commemorating the victory of the Muslim ruler Mohhamed Ghori over the Hindu Prithviraj Chauhan and symbolising the start of Muslim rule in India.
The Qutaub Minar itself is part of the much larger Qutub complex. The Qutub complex is an incredible collection of buildings and ruins. There is the massive domed red stone gateway of the Alai Darwaza, the beautiful Quwwat-Ul-Islam Mosque, the enigmatic Iron Pillar, the ruined, never constructed Alai Minar as well as many tombs and other ornate ruins.
The tower and the complex have both been recognised by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites due to their beauty and historical significance.
Where is the Qutub Minar?
The Qutub Minar sits in South Delhi here. It is south of central Delhi and most of Delhi's attractions but is not difficult or time consuming to get to.
The Qutub minar is also called the Qutab Minar.
How to get to the Qutub Minar?
Taxi / Rickshaw
You can easily visit the Qutub minar from Old or New Delhi:
The easiest way to get to the Qutub Minar is via rickshaw, either hailed from the street or summoned via Uber or Ola. We would recommend getting an Indian SIM card and using Uber or Ola as it will remove the hassle of negotiation and stop any attempt at a scam. Rickshaw scams are one of the most common scams tourists can fall victim to whilst in Delhi (have a look at our Paharganj article for more common scams to avoid), so save yourself a headache and request a ride online.
If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India, why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo. Just make sure you install the App and eSIm on your phone before landing in India.
Metro
The closest metro station to the site is the Qutub Minar station on the yellow metro line. From the station itself, it’s a 1.6km (23 minutes) walk to the entrance or a short rickshaw ride.
Neither rickshaw, taxi or Metro should cost you much at all, our rickshaw from Mohammadpur / Hauz Khas area cost us 115 rupees (£1.10 or $1.39) via Uber for the 7 kilometre journey.
How much are tickets to enter?
Entrance tickets cost 500 rupees each (£4.77 or $6.03). This was the foreigner price, if you are an Indian national the entrance is only 30 rupees (£0.29 or $0.36)!
This is one of the more expensive attractions we visited in Delhi but it is 100% worth the price of admission. The Qutub complex is a huge site and is crammed full of incredible monuments.
When is the Qutub Minar open?
The Qutub Minar is open everyday from 7am in the morning until 9pm at night.
The site gets extremely busy during the weekends, so if you can, visit during the week. In any case we would recommend heading to the Qutub Minar first thing in the morning to minimise the heat and the crowds.
What to expect? Our experience of visiting the Qutub Minar
We had a fantastic day out at the Qutub complex. We went in not really knowing what to expect. We had seen a few clips on our favourite YouTuber’s channels but had no grasp on just how large a site the complex was or just how much it contained!
We jumped down from our rickshaw, paid our entrance fee and were quickly blown away by the place. As soon as you walk in, the massive arched ruins of tombs, mosques and monuments stretch away from you in all directions, all the while the Qutub Minar looms overhead like a huge sundial.
The ruins of the Quwwat-Ul-Islam mosque are stunning with vast stone archways framing the Qutub Minar and Delhi skyline. Its marble and red sandstone cloister is very well preserved. The Quwwat-Ul-Islam (“glory to Islam”) mosque was, like the rest of the complex, built in celebration of the Muslim rule of India around 1196AD.
In the courtyard of the Quwwat-Ul-Islam Mosque stands the curious “Iron Pillar”. Over seven metres tall this iron shaft is a relic of (or possibly a tribute to) the Hindu ruler Chandragupta the 2nd. An odd thing to have in the centre of a mosque’s courtyard.
The pillar is shrouded in mystery, why was it brought to the mosque? Its inscriptions clearly show it was originally displayed elsewhere. Why does it not rust? Why is there a cannonball scar on the pillar? There are many theories for all of the above but, regardless of the facts and mysteries, the pillar is a striking monument in the middle of an amazing mosque's courtyard.
The Alai Darwaza gateway is similarly impressive. A huge domed cube of a gatehouse marking the southern entrance to the mosque. The Alai Darwaza was a later addition to the complex (around 1300AD) and was originally meant to be one of four gateways to the Mosque. It was commissioned by Sultan Alauddin Khaji of Delhi but he passed away before any more than the southern gateway could be completed. The Alai Darwazza is one of the earliest examples of Indo-Islamic architecture to be built using traditional Islamic methods, The older elements of the Qutub complex having been built using native methods and Hindu workers.
Throughout the Qutub complex you will see incongruous reminders of its construction. The site was built using the remains of Hindu and Jain temples destroyed by the new Muslim rulers. You will be passing a wall for the mosque and see Ganesh carved into the stone, or be passing a tomb and see half a face staring back from a wall. It is a fascinating reminder that India is always built upon India, with each new ruler taking over and reforging what was there before.
The Qutub Minar itself is stunning, a vast pillar piercing the sky and visible from all around. It is almost like an optical illusion, you can always see it in the background but as you approach it, it is still a shock to see just how large it is! The tapered tower of the Qutub Minar is the tallest brick built minarete in the world, its base and walls made of alternating rounded and squared columns (we’re sure an architect can give the correct term for these in the comments!). The tower is banded in beautiful Islamic calligraphy, with verses from the Quran circling the structure.
The Qutub Minar was built by a fascinating character - Qutb-Ud-Din-Aibak. A former slave turned general in the army of Mohhamad of Ghor, the Muslim ruler who conquered much of India, Qutub-Ud-Din-Aibak became Sultan in the north after the death (and a lot of infighting) of Mohhamad of Ghor. The Qutub Minar and Qutub complex were built on the ruins of Lal Kot fort in commemoration of the victories of Mohhamad of Ghor.
There are openings and balconies set at regular levels into the tower and inside are over 300 steps to the top. Sadly, due to some tragic accidents, the tower can no longer be climbed so you just have to appreciate it from the outside!
Nearby to the Qutub Minar lies the never finished ruins of what was to be its big brother. The Alai Minar was, like the Alai Darwaza, ordered to be built by by Sultan Alauddin Khaji of Delhi. The Alai Minar was to be double the size of the Qutub Minar to reflect the doubling of the size of the Quwwat-Ul-Islam Mosque that was achieved under the sultan's reign. Unfortunately and also like the Alai Darwaza, the sultan died before construction was completed. The Alai Minar only had the core of the first layer completed. However, it is obvious from the massive size of this rubblestone core, just how big the completed minar would have been. The base level is enormous and a treat to walk around and admire.
The Qutub Minar Complex is a vast sprawling site of beautiful ruins and fascinating history. We happily spent half a day wandering its pathways and admiring its architecture. We would highly recommend adding the Qutub Minar Complex to any Delhi itinerary.
Do I need a guide for the Qutub Minar Complex?
Maybe? It all depends on your travel style. We love just getting lost by ourselves in a place and looking up the facts either before or later (or just reading the signs). However, in places like the Qutub Minar complex you may find you get more out of them with an expert guide.
Check out TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide, or Viator for guided tours. You can also combine a few sites into one tour if you're short on time in Delhi.
Where to stay?
There are plenty of accommodation choices close by to the Qutub Minar whatever your budget or comfort level.
If you’re backpacking and looking to stay in a hostel, we can recommend a stay at JHouse Hostel. Set in the quiet village district of Mohammadpur, this hostel offers both dorms and private en-suites rooms as well as a rooftop common area and kitchen. Read more about our stay here.
We can also highly recommend a stay at Zostel Delhi in the Paharganj area of Old Delhi. With a cafe, comfy common room and rooftop lounging area the Zostel makes a great oasis in the heart of Old Delhi. The hostel offers both private and dorm rooms. For more of our experiences getting to and in Paharganj, check out our article here.
If hostels aren’t your thing, then check the map below to see what else is on offer:
Where to go after?
Delhi has a huge range of attractions and sights to see. You could take a food tour through the ancient markets of Chandni Chowk, check out Delhi’s most popular tourist attractions at the Red Fort or wander the beautiful grounds and spectacular ruins of Safdarjung’s Tomb. There are also the serene Lodhi Gardens and the stunning Sunder Nursery as well as the Agrasen Ki Baoli stepwell and the astronomical observatory of the Jantar Mantar. You should never be bored in Delhi!
If you’re short on time and want to combine as many Delhi attractions as possible, why not have a look at whats on offer from Get Your Guide.
Conclusion
The Qutub Minar and Complex is a fantastic place to explore. Full of the ruins of one empire built on top of and out of an older still civilisation. The towers, mosques, tombs and ruins are stunningly beautiful, full of surprising details and intricate craftsmanship. It is, as mentioned, one of the more expensive ticket prices in Delhi but at just over five pounds it is well worth your money. The grounds are spectacular, the history fascinating and the architecture amazing, definitely do not miss out!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
Photo Gallery of the Qutb Minar
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Hauz Khas Village and Deer Park - A Breath of Fresh Air in Delhi
The high end boutique shopping neighbourhood in New Delhi boasts bars, clubs, cafe’s and restaurants. Bordering the Village are beautiful ancient ruins and the green oasis of Deer Park. Read our complete guide to get the most out of Hauz Khas. From where the nearest Metro is to where to find the best restaurants and how to visit the ancient fort, our blog covers it all!
Hauz Khas is an oasis of sorts, a calm village of botique shops, artists and bars in the middle of the storm of people and traffic that makes up modern delhi. At some point, in amongst the pandemonium of the busy streets of the, there will get to a point in your stay where you will need some time out. An hour or two to breathe again, and this is where the green spaces of Deer park or the cafes of Hauz Khas will be your saviour.
No amount of guidebooks, blogs or YouTube videos could prepare us for our first time landing in Delhi. The Indian capital of over 33 million inhabitants, it is chaotic, colourful and noisy. Delhi is all of these things, but amongst this, surprisingly, is lots of green space. One of these green spaces is the Hauz Khas district and Deer Park. This is our guide to one of th most calm, beautiful districts of Delhi.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
What Is The Hauz Khas Village and Deer Park?
The Hauz Khas Village of south Delhi is a small affluent district full of boutique shops, upmarket cafes, restaurants and bars. As its name suggests, it really does have a village feel, with narrow streets and shops set in pretty old buildings.
The Village is crammed with independent craft shops, art galleries and quirky places to eat. As the sun begins to set, the shoppers disperse and the young Delhiites come out to play in the many bars and restaurants. As night begins to fall, Hauz Khas Village or HKV as it is more commonly known as, becomes the beating heart of Delhi’s nightlife and social scene with bars serving beer and cocktails, and DJ’s taking to the decks.
Just the other side of the Village lies Deer Park, an expansive green oasis with ruins of the Hauz Khas Fort, an ancient reservoir and lots of grassy lawns, flowers beds and trees to relax under. If you’re lucky you may even spot some of the deer that give the park its name!
Where is Hauz Khas and how to get there?
Hauz Khas is a district in South Delhi. The Hauz Khas Village is a small part of this district located next to Deer Park. You can find it on a map here:
The easiest way to get there is by rickshaw. Rickshaws can easily be hailed from the street, or if you have an Indian SIM or eSIM, requested via the Uber or Ola apps. We would always recommend using the ride hailing apps in Delhi as they remove most of the scams and negotiation you may otherwise have to put up with.
If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India, why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo.
For those travelling by public transport, the closest metro station to the Village is Green Park metro station which is on the Yellow line. From here it’s a short 15 minute walk to Deer Park and from there, you can walk through to Hauz Khas Village.
The IIT metro station on the Magenta line, a 15 minute walk away from Hauz Khas Village.
Despite its name, the Hauz Khas station, on the Yellow and Magenta lines, is actually a good deal further away from the Village and park. If you get off here it still would only be a short rickshaw drive to get to the Village.
What to do in the Hauz Khas Neighbourhood?
Go shopping in the Village
Hauz Khas is full to the brim with independent retailers, from artists selling custom work to a plethora of trendy clothes shops and tattoo parlours. Back in the late 80s, the Village was given the title ‘The National Capital of Ethnic Chic’ thanks to an article published in 1989 by the New York Times reporter, Barbara Crossette, who gave the Village this nickname after the designer boutiques she found there.
Nowadays the designer shops have been joined by second hand clothes stores, selling everything from vintage converse trainers to original Levi jeans. The Village is the perfect place for fashionistas to unwind with an afternoon of shopping.
It’s not all about clothes though, the Village has plenty of gift shops, antique shops and record stores for you to have a mooch in. We especially loved looking in All Arts, an antique store located to the east of the Village that specialises in vintage Bollywood posters, books, films and music memorabilia. Unfortunately, no posters were bought as they’re not the most portable things to carry in our backpacks, but next time! Another store we liked was Chumbak, a gift store that sold colourful trinkets for the home as well as watches and leather bags.
The narrow lanes of this urban Village are a perfect place to wander through. Turning each corner, you never know what you’re going to stumble upon. Make sure you look up too as there is lots of street art to be found!
Explore the ancient Hauz Khas Complex
At the far end of the Hauz Khas Village lies the Hauz Khas Complex. Built during the reign of Allauddin Khilji in the early 1300s, these historical ruins contain a fortress, a tomb, a mosque, pavilions and an Islamic seminary (educational institution).
The entrance to the complex is from the Village. As you enter, you’ll see a green lawn with three red stone domed structures.
Turn to the right and climb up to the steps of a three domed, pillared pavilion. Just in front of this lies the ancient masjid or mosque. The mosque looks directly over the lake and gives you a birds eye view of Deer Park. As you continue through the complex you’ll reach the tomb of Firoz Shah.
Sitting atop this square building is a white stone dome. Unlike the marbled interior of Humayan’s Tomb, the interior of Firoz Shah’s mausoleum is made of stone. Sun light is drawn in from the carved lattice filled windows, whilst above carved arches lead to a decorated ceiling. In the centre lie three rectangle stone tombs. It’s a beautiful place.
As you continue making your way through the ancient site, the ruins unravel in front of you in a patchwork of narrow passageways. They are full of cubby holes and secluded corners where you could easily take a load off your feet or if the teenagers of Delhi are anything to go by, canoodle with your partner! Low pillared rooms lead you to arched windows that open to views overlooking the lake and park. Unlike other historical sites, you are free to climb and walk through the ruins. As you walk through you never know what you’re going to stumble upon. Outside, the stone ruins give way to green courtyards and trees. There are lots of places to sit in the shade and admire the complex.
The site is well worth a visit even if you’re not a history buff!
How much are tickets to the Hauz Khas Complex?
Tickets cost 250 rupees for foreigners to enter and 20 rupees for Indian nationals.
Tickets can be brought at the ticket counter or online in advance here.
When is the Hauz Khas Complex open?
The Hauz Khas Complex is open everyday from 8am to 7pm.
The site can get very busy on weekends.
Have a walk around the neighbouring Deer Park
The neighbouring Deer Park is a large green space that backs onto the Hauz Khas Village. Full of expansive lawns, ruins and manicured gardens, the park is a great place to take a walk, have a picnic or laze around under the shade of the trees. It is a very backpacker friendly place to go in delhi - The Hauz Khas Deer park has no entry fee and plenty of ruins and things to discover!
At the southern end of the park, the large green Hauz Khas lake dominates the view. This ancient reservoir was built during the reign of Allauddin Khilji to provide water to his newly built fort and the inhabitants of Siri - the second medieval city prior to Delhi. The name Hauz Khas literally means “Royal Tank” and is named after this ancient water source. The word ‘Hauz’ means tank or lake and ‘Khaz’ meaning royal.
The reservoir has since been redeveloped into the Hauz Khas water tank complete with water fountains, ducks and a path that circumnavigates the lake. A walk around this lake feels a world away from the hectic streets of Old Delhi. If you do take a walk, you can get up close to the fence of the ruins of the Hauz Khas complex, giving you a different perspective of these ancient ruins.
As well as the Hauz Khas complex, there are several other ancient tombs hidden within the park. If you enter the park from the Green Park Metro end, the thick trees suddenly give way to several ancient tombs including the Bagh-I-Alam Ka Gumbad, the Kali Gumti and the Tohfe Wala Gumband. These ancient sandstone domed tombs suddenly emerge out of a curtain of green. Unlike the Hauz Khas complex, these tombs are free to look at. It is surprises like this that keep us on our toes in Delhi. You really never know what you’re going to find!
In the centre of the park, there’s also the ruins of Munda Gumbad, a medieval pavilion that now lies in ruins. Climb up to the top of this ancient structure to get views over the Hauz Khas lake.
Make sure you look up to the trees during the day as they are full to the brim with enormous bats hanging under the branches. As well as bats, there are plenty of monkeys, eagles, squirrels and other birds to look out for and as the name suggests even a herd of deer. However, despite our numerous walks around this park we are still yet to encounter Bambi!
There are toilets available within the park to use as well as lots of vendors selling water, snacks and ice-creams.
The park is especially lovely to walk around during sunset, as the heat subsides a little and the green lawns are bathed in a bright orange glow. As we were staying close to the Hauz Khas district in Mohammadpur (read all about it here), after a day exploring we’d opt to get off at the Green Park metro and take a walk through the park before returning to our hostel.
Getting a guided tour around Hauz Khas Village
If you’d like a more curated exploration of the Hauz Khas Complex and Village, then why not book yourself a guided tour with Get Your Guide who offer a tour taking in the Hauz Khas Fort, the Deer Park as well as tasting some delicacies within the local area. Book your tour here.
Where to eat and drink?
The Hauz Khas neighbourhood is full of cafes, restaurants and bars, so many, that you could easily spend a day just eating and drinking your way around the Village. From Indian to Italian, Mexican to Korean there’s plenty to munch on!
For coffee we can recommend stopping at Cafe Fika, a coffee shop that has an extensive coffee menu with all of the favourites as well as serving breakfast, pasta, sandwiches and pizza.
For tea lovers a stop at The Tea Room from Blossom Kochar is a must. Selling you guessed it, tea and cake! They even offer an afternoon tea set.
In the heart of the Village, close to the fort, Kunzum is another must visit. A small shop specialising in books, art and coffee it’s a great place to sit back with a caffeinated brew and peruse the many books.
Another favourite cafe of ours is The Gypsy Cafe. This small colourful cafe with floor seating sells different flavour iced teas, shakes and cold coffee. As well as offering a small menu. There is a small table at the front of the cafe that sells jewellery, notebooks, purses and other trinkets.
The cafes and restaurants above are just a small selection of those on offer in the Village, and there are plenty more that have a view or rooftop areas that look directly over the Deer Park and Hauz Khas Fort. We’d recommend pulling up a pew, ordering an ice cold beverage, and sitting back to admire the views.
If you’re after some lunch we had an excellent meal at the Naivedyam, a restaurant specialising in South Indian cuisine. Offering dosa, thalis, uttapam, paratha and much more, this is the perfect place to get your South Indian fix. We both opted for the Chef’s special, the Mysore Rava Masala Dosa. A thin dosa made from semolina and filled with masala potatoes and a garlic and chilli paste. It was delicious! Crispy, a little spicy and served with a sweet and spicy coconut chutney and vegetable curry, it was everything we hoped it would be. Make sure you pair a dosa with one of their ginger and lemon sodas. Slightly spicy from the ginger and sweet, it was a perfect refreshing pick me up! We enjoyed eating at this restaurant so much we headed back there on our final day on our first stay in India.
There are plenty of other restaurants offering every type of cuisine imaginable within the Village, just take a wander and see where your nose takes you!
As the sun starts to set, the slow pace of the Village unravels, and the bars and restaurants start to come alive. If you’re looking for a sunset drink with a view, why not have a cocktail at the Hauz Khas Social which offers views over the Hauz Khas Tank and the setting sun.
If you’re in the mood for a drink and a dance, there are plenty of bars and clubs within the Village. Many of these will offer happy hours, or discounts on drinks / food just walk up the street and you’ll be pounced on with lots of offers!
Where to stay?
There is a plethora of accommodation choices available within the Hauz Khas district from guesthouses to hotels.
Check out the map below to see what’s on offer:
If you’re backpacking and looking for a great hostel to stay in we can recommend a stay at JHouse hostel located in Mohammadpur, just a 30 minute walk away from the centre of Hauz Khas. JHouse has both private en-suite rooms and dorms, a common area, rooftop lounging area and a kitchen. Read more about our stay here. For a cheaper option in the heart of the backpacking district of Paharganj read all about Zostel stay here.
Conclusion
The Hauz Khas Village and Deer Park are a great place to unwind, whether you’re looking to go shopping, have a walk in a park, sip a coffee or explore some of Delhi’s historic past. It’s a vibrant area of Delhi, where the ancient meets with modernity, with boutique shops nestled amongst 14th century tombs.
The Village and Deer Park are a great place to take a breather, and relax into a more slow paced Delhi. If you’re in the area, we’d definitely recommend a visit!
Thanks for reading,
John and Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The Agrasen Ki Baoli - An Ancient Stepwell Hidden In The Heart Of Delhi
The Agrasen Ki Baoli stepwell is a hidden treasure in the heart of Delhi. This historic stepwell is only a short walk from Connaught Place but seems to be largely unknown to foreign visitors. Check out our guide for all the information you need to visit this ancient monument.
The Agrasen Ki Baoli is a perfect example of a preserved stepwell hidden in the centre of the Indian capital. Just a short walk away from the shopping district of Connaught Place and you’ll be transported away into the ancient history of Delhi.
The Indian capital of Delhi is a city steeped in history. Delhi boasts ancient architecture and has a vibrancy of culture that only comes with a truly massive population. From its early beginnings, Delhi has had a turbulent history, with different dynasties and empires striving to take power. Just like its history, the climate and geography of Delhi is a story of extremes. With heavy rains during the monsoon seasons and intense heat during the dry season, Delhi faces a yearly battle with its weather.
Throughout history, as the dry season intensifies, the waterways of India would dry up and shortages of water would occur. To combat this, huge stone stepwells were built as a way to provide a water source to civilian populations all year round. These stone stepwells were built in areas prone to water shortages and droughts, and were built to help store the large amount of water that fell during the monsoon season.
The stepwells or baoli in Hindi, all follow a similar design. Constructed of stone, the stepwells all have a large reservoir at the bottom. This big pool is then surrounded by steep stepped walls that rise up on either one or all sides. During the wet season, the large pool at the bottom of the well fills with rainwater. When the rainy season stops and the dry season arrives, the collected water would be shaded by the surrounding walls and could then be used by the local population for both drinking and irrigation.
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What is the Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell?
The Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell (also known as the Ugrasen Ki Baoli), is a large, historical stepwell hidden in a narrow street just off of Hailey Road in the centre of New Delhi. You can find the stepwell here.
The baoli stretches out in a long thin rectangular shape and measures 60 metres long and 15 metres wide. The well has been built over three levels, with each level having arches carved out of the stone. At the shorter end of the well, 108 stone steps lead down to the pool at the bottom.
Archaeologists cannot agree on an age for the stepwell, but most place it to have been built somewhere in the 14th century.
Nowadays the baoli is protected by The Archaeological Survey of India and is a popular attraction for tourists and locals alike trying to escape the intense heat of Delhi, and to get “that'' Instagram shot.
More recently, the stepwell has also been used as a filming location. With the backdrop of the step well being featured in the Bollywood films PK and Sultan, as well as many more!
The stepwell is also rumoured to be haunted, although we can report that when we visited we didn’t see any unusual ghostly apparitions! The only other creatures we saw was the army of pigeons who have made the stepwell their home.
Our experience of visiting - what to expect
As you arrive outside the thick stone wall of the Agrasen Ki Baoli, it's hard to imagine the scale of the stepwell inside. The entrance to the well is a small stone archway cut out of one of the longer sides. As you climb through, you’re immediately stood in a vast stone cavern. Standing near to the top of the well, huge stone steps fan down to a deep, black pool of water at the bottom. It’s breathtaking!
The sides of the well are just as impressive with huge stone archways bathed in a combination of golden sunlight and shadow, carved out of the thick yellow stone. It’s a mesmerising sight and we just stood in awe trying to take it all in.
Once you’ve got all the photos you could want from the top of the stepwell, we’d recommend heading down the stone steps to the water's edge. At the bottom, crouch down and take a moment to look up at the steep walls that surround the pool of water. It’s an incredible monument, with an important purpose.
We wondered how much deeper this would go if it dried up?
Once you’ve climbed back up make sure you take a look at the small stone mosque built just behind the entrance.
How much are tickets?
Entry to the stepwell is completely free.
Unlike a lot of other tourist sights in Delhi, the stepwell is free for everyone, both for Indian Nationals and visiting foreigners.
When you arrive, just walk through the archway and head up the stone steps to reach the interior of the Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell.
What time is the Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell open?
The Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell is open everyday from 9:00am in the morning until 17:30 pm. As with all tourist attractions, the stepwell can get very busy from mid morning and throughout the afternoon so we’d recommend getting up early and planning a visit as soon as the stepwell opens its gates.
Visiting early in the morning would also mean that you would avoid the worst of the sunshine and Delhi’s extreme heat. As the stepwell has been used in a few films, the site is extremely popular, so if you can, try and plan a visit on a weekday rather than a weekend.
It’s hard to get the scale of the stepwell from the photos, but there were a lot of steep steps to climb!
How to get to the Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell?
The easiest way to get to the Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell is to take a rickshaw. Either flag one down from the street and negotiate a price, or, if you have an Indian sim, request a rickshaw via the Uber or Ola app.
If you’re using Delhi’s metro, the nearest stations are Barakhamba Road on the Blue metro line or Janparth metro station on the Violet metro line. From both these stations it's a short 10 minute walk or a 5 minute rickshaw ride away.
For those using Delhi’s buses, the nearest stop is the Max Mueller Bhawan bus stop which serves routes 440, 996, 894 and 450. Just check out the up to date departure times for this stop on GoogleMaps.
When you come to leave the stepwell there will be plenty of rickshaw drivers waiting outside to drive you to wherever you need to go next.
Can I get a guide at the stepwell?
Unfortunately there are no guides available at the stepwell itself, however if you’d like a guided experience of the stepwell, why not book yourself a private tour with a tuk tuk driver and guide.
Check out this tour from Get Your Guide who offer a full or half day guided tours throughout Delhi taking in some of the most famous historic sights.
What else is there to do in the area?
The stepwell is only a short walk away from Connaught Place, an upmarket shopping area full of restaurants, cafes, clothes and electronic shops. The streets of Connaught Place spiral out and encompass a large green, circular park. We’d recommend heading here if you’re looking to update your travel wardrobe, or looking for somewhere to get some Western delicacies. With branches of Starbucks, Dominoes and McDonald’s there’s plenty of home comforts for you to munch on! If you’re in Connaught Place, make sure you don’t miss the underground market of Palika Bazaar located just underneath Connaught Place.
From Connaught Place you can easily walk to the Jantar Mantar - an observatory, within a green park, which showcases 13 huge stone astronomical instruments.
Just south from the Agrasen Ki Baoli Stepwell, is Delhi’s famous India Gate. Surrounded by well maintained lawns, this imposing arched monument commemorates the Indian soldiers who lost their lives during the First World War.
Further afield, if you’re looking to see some more of Delhi’s historical sights, why not check out the Red Fort, the Qutab Minnar complex, Safdarjung’s Tomb or Humayan’s Tomb.
If you’ve had your history fix for the day, why not head to one of Delhi’s hidden green oases such as the Lodhi Garden, Hauz Khas district and Deer Park or the Sunder Nursery.
All the attractions listed above are only a short rickshaw ride away, and being Delhi the prices for a ride will not be expensive.
Are there any other stepwells in Delhi?
Yes, lots!
Why not check out the following stepwells:
- Baoli RK Puram (location)
- Dwarka Baoli (location)
- Rajon Ki Baoli (location)
- Warzipa Tomb (location)
The stepwells listed above are just a few of the wells that are located close to Delhi, however stepwells can be found all over India. The more famous stepwells can be found in the northern states of Rajasthan and Gujarat.
Where to stay in Delhi?
The Indian capital has accommodation choices for every kind of budget. From the dorm savvy to the upmarket 5 star resorts there’s something for everyone.
We’d recommend a stay in Zostel Delhi which is only a short ten minute rickshaw ride (depending on traffic) away from the stepwell. With comfy private en-suite rooms, cafe and rooftop lounging area, Zostel Delhi had everything a backpacker could want. You can read more about our stay here.
If you’d prefer to stay elsewhere, check out the map below for all the accommodation choices available within a short drive of the stepwell.
For those looking for a little bit of luxury within the Indian capital, then why not check out a possible stay at The Imperial or the Shangri-La Eros New Delhi. Both of which are 5-star hotels and are both only a short drive away from the stepwell and Connaught Place.
Conclusion
The Agrasen Ki Baoli is a fascinating ancient Delhi site steeped in history. If you're looking for a free thing to do and looking to see an incredible piece of architecture, then the baoli is well worth a visit. We loved the design of the well, with the steep steps leading to the large pool. It was a piece of architecture that was beautiful, but also had been an essential part of life in Old Delhi.
The stepwell is relatively small in terms of the time you need to spend visiting it, so you could easily add a visit as part of a fuller day out in Delhi. In fact, after our early morning visit to the stepwell, we went on to visit Connaught Place, the Jantar Mantar and the Lodhi Gardens. All this before a late lunch!
We loved our time visiting this step well and can’t wait to see others in India. Let us know in the comments which Indian stepwells have been your favourite to visit!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The Jantar Mantar - Delhi’s Ancient Astronomical Observatory
The Jantar Mantar is an ancient observatory hidden away in the heart of Delhi. This calm oasis in the middle of the bustling capital is full of incredible, giant red stone astronomical instruments. Read our guide for all the information you need to get here and get the most out of this ancient wonder.
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Delhi is a city full of history, a rich past full of different empires and dynasties that each put their own stamp on the Indian capital. Wherever you are in the city, you’ll never be far from a ruin, ancient site or an important historical place.
We were having a wander around Connaught Place, mooching around the shops, debating coffee and generally avoiding shoe shine sellers when we noticed something on Google Maps, a green space just to the southwest of us - the Jantar Mantar. We had no idea what to expect from the site, but we were tired of dodging “helpful” tourist information people and were looking for an escape, and thought this would be the perfect place to head to. So we wandered away from the shopping circle and set off on the short ten minute walk to the Jantar Mantar.
What is the Jantar Mantar?
Simply put, the Jantar Mantar is a collection of instruments for making astrological measurements. This previous sentence is as misleading as it is boring, the Jantar Mantar’s instruments are humongous, multi-storey red stone constructs that bend up and around in fantastic shapes. This architectural observatory is an amazing place, and upon entering feels as though you’ve set foot into a garden of strange stone wonders!
The 13 strong stone instrument observatory was built by request of the Mughal Emperor, Muhammad Shah in 1724 to study cosmic movements. Jantar Mantar literally translates to the ‘instrument used for calculation’. The word ‘Jantar’ is derived from the Hindu Sanskrit word ‘Yantra’ which means instrument or machine and ‘Mantar’ is derived from ‘Mantrana’ in Sanskrit which means to consult or calculate.
The Samrat Yantra is huge, for scale have a look at those palm trees!
Dominating the centre of the park is the towering point of the Samrat Yantra. Think sundial the size of a carpark set into a bowl, almost like an gigantic radar dish. The Samrat Yantra gnomon (pointy bit of a sundial) is a huge 68 foot wedge of steps soaring up into the Delhi sky. The giant sundial is apparently accurate to the minute.
Behind the Samrat Yantra are the two Rama Yantra. Tall cylinder like structures with flat columns arranged around the outside alternating between stone and sky and, apparently, allowing astronomers to measure the distance to stars!
Around the Samrat Yantra are fantastic looking structures, like someone has cracked open giant armillary spheres . These are the Jaya Prakash Yantra’s. In the past pieces of cord would be strung between points on their curved edges allowing accurate star charts to be drawn.
The most curious looking structure in the complex is the Misra Yantra. The Misra Yantra looks like an upturned love heart full of staircases and is a multi-use astrological instrument that is capable of calculating equinoxes and the time of noon in different cities across the globe.
As you wander through the park, the bright red geometric shapes tower above you, creating different shadows across the loose stone paths and green lawns. Even if you’re not into astronomy, it’s worth a visit. Just looking up at the huge stone sculptures you could easily think you were in a modern art gallery.
Where is Jantar Mantar? How to get there?
Right here! The Jantar Mantar is located right in the heart of India’s capital of New Delhi.
The easiest way to reach the Jantar Mantar is by taking a ride in one of Delhi’s many rickshaws. With over 100,000 of them in the city, you shouldn’t have to wait too long to hitch a ride. If you’ve already arranged an Indian Sim card, then we’d recommend requesting a rickshaw through the Uber or Ola apps as this removes any unwanted negotiation.
For those taking public transport, the park is a short 6 minute walk from Connaught Place. The closest metro stations are Ravi Chowk Metro which is on the Blue and Yellow metro lines or Janpath Metro station which is on the Violet line.
How much does it cost to visit the Jantar Mantar?
Entry tickets to the Jantar Mantar cost 300 Rupees (£2.84 or $3.61) for foreigners and 25 rupees for Indian nationals.
What times is the Jantar Mantar open?
The Jantar Mantar is open between 9am and 6pm every day of the week. Opening times may be effected if its a public holiday, holy day or other festival day.
How long should I spend at Jantar Mantar?
As long as you like! Seriously if you walked around and read all of the plaques it would probably only take you about 40 minutes including stopping for photographs. However, Delhi is a chaotic and overwhelming place and Jantar Mantar is a calm little oasis full of shaded spots and benches so you can happily spend a lot longer than 40 minutes here if you needed to relax a little.
What facilities are there?
There are toilet facilities located within the park, to the left of the entrance.
Food and drink is not allowed in the site, but there are plenty of drink and ice cream vendors waiting outside the gates.
If you’re after a more substantial meal, then head back to Connaught Place where there’s plenty of restaurants and cafes to choose from.
Can I hire a guide?
There were no guides within the park itself, but if you’re after a guide, why not book a guided tour? Get Your Guide offers a variety of different tours that encompass the Jantar Mantar and other Delhi sites.
What else is there to do in Delhi?
The Jantar Mantar is quite a small site and so could easily be added to a longer day of sightseeing within the Indian capital. There are plenty of sites and tourist attractions only a short walk or rickshaw ride away.
If you’d like to visit more historical sites, then why not visit the nearby ancient stone stepwell of Agrasen Ki Baoli or the Delhi Gate, a huge stone archway built to commemorate fallen soldiers in World War 1. Further afield is the iconic Red Fort, an emblem of India and Old Delhi’s most popular attraction.
If you’re after another park, then the peaceful Lodhi Garden is only a short drive away.
Conclusion
The collection of geometric instruments at the Jantar Mantar are a fascinating diversion from central Delhi. They make a strange and wonderful contrast as they rise against the steel and glass of the modern tower blocks that surround them. It is definitely worth a little walk to come and discover the importance of these clever ancient devices.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The Red Fort of Old Delhi - Tourist Trap or Essential Visit?
The Red Fort of Old Delhi is the Indian capital’s number one tourist attraction. Read our blog for all the essential information to visiting and getting the most out of this busy site.
Built by Shah Jahan (he of the Taj Mahal fame), the Red Fort of Delhi is unmissable, literally you cannot miss it. The fort squats at the end of Old Delhi, a massive barricade with its walls, towers and gardens spreading out all around. It features on the back of the 500 rupee bank note and is the biggest, most popular tourist attraction in Delhi. This is our account and guide to a day out at Delhi’s Old Town Red Fort.
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The first impressions (after the impressive size) when we approached the Red Fort were not great. The hassle and begging, which had been surprisingly low on our mornings exploration of the old town market of Chandni Chowk, was constant here. Every twenty seconds we would be approached for money in some form or other. It was a part of India we had been warned about but not one we had actually experienced up until now. Then we saw the queue...
The queue snaked away from a distant, hidden, entrance and wound on seemingly unendingly. There must have been thousands of people standing shoulder to chin queuing for the entrance. At this point we were ready to throw in the towel, admit defeat and slink back to our quiet green oasis in Mohammadpur (read all about this great district of Delhi here). Eagle eye Ellie however spotted a sign. The sign told us to buy our tickets online and that there was a separate queue for foreigners. Looking down the long line of queuers we couldn't see any foreigners so assumed our queue must be shorter. We bought our tickets online and headed forwards.
The foreigner queue wasn't just shorter, it was non-existent. We felt bad as we walked past the hundreds standing in line but our guilt was slightly lessened when we saw the difference in entrance costs. If you are an Indian National (and willing to wait in line) the entrance fee to the Red Fort is 35 rupees (£0.33 or $0.42). The foreign entrance fee when buying online is 550 Rupee (£5.23 or $6.83)! This ten times extra charge made us feel a little better at skipping the enormous queue.
The outer walls and gates of Delhi's Red Fort are incredible!
Past the armed security and ticket check we found ourselves outside the Lahori Gate. The scale of the gates are impressive from a distance but overwhelming up close! The entrance is gigantic, a red stone courtyard with walls that encircled and nearly blocked out the sky with their sheer scale. This was also where the selfies began.
Pockets of people were whispering and pointing at us, this made us more than a little self conscious and John had to check he had done his fly up. A young man peeled off from a family and tentatively approached us. “Selfie please? One selfie” he asked. “Of course” we replied. And the flood gates were open...
As foreigners visiting Delhi we knew that being asked for selfies was a common occurance, especially if you are female. We just didnt expect so many! They were all respectfull and polite and Ellie had no wandering hands or awakward encounters, people just seemed genuinely curious about us. We have been to Delhi a few times now and have never had as many selfies asked of us as we did at the Red Fort.
After 15 minutes or so of hundreds of selfies from different people, Ellie being handed babies and groups of young men trying to edit John out of the photos, we made our way through the grand doors of the Lahori Gate and into the fort itself.
India doesnt do things by half! The scale of the Red Fort is awe-inpiring!
The first thing that greets you is a massive arcade set within one of the fort walls where all of the alcoves and cubby-holes of the wall have been turned into shops. These shops sold every kind of souvenir you could imagine as well as scarves, books and other knick-knacks. We were not in the market for knick-knackery so passed through admiring the architecture.
Tourist shops can still be pretty!
The fort grounds are, not to repeat the words too much, enormous. The inside of the fort would be called a park in any other setting rather than a courtyard. Buildings either ruined or preserved sit in the green expanse, like boats moored at port. The ruins are a relic of English vandalism during the Indian rebellion where large parts of the fort were looted and destroyed.
The Red Fort of Delhi, or Lal Qila was constructed by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, he of the Taj Mahal fame. In Agra (Shah Jahan's old capital city) the streets were becoming too narrow and crowded for the parades, ceremonies and processions the mighty Emperor demanded. Shah Jahan therefore decided to move his capital from Agra to Delhi and needed a new imperial home. In 1639 he commanded a new palatial fort to be constructed in Delhi.
Shah Jahan didn’t do anything by half!
Over its long history the fort has been plundered, blown up, used as a garrison by the occupying British and served as the historic base for the Indian Army. In all this time its giant retaining walls have stood unbroken. On every anniversary of Indian Independence the Prime Minister raises the tricolour flag over the Red Fort.
You can see why no army ever scaled the walls of the Red Fort!
Back in the fort we spent a couple of hours wandering through the grounds, getting more selfies taken (Ellie mainly), holding more babies (Ellie mainly) and buying ice creams (Jellie together).
The baby was very suspicious of Ellie!
The preserved buildings inside the fort are incredible, huge marble palaces, music pavilions and mosques. Some you can walk through and some are roped off against visitors, but are still a delight to look through the ornate lattice work. The gardens are full of chipmunks, birds and even a couple of peacocks. The audience hall or Diwan-i-Aam was especially impressive. A huge red and white marble stage, a massive open meeting place studded with beautifully carved pillars.
The latticework at Old Delhi's Red Fort make for many photogenic moments.
You can spend a long time in the gardens, monuments and buildings of the Red Fort. There is plenty to keep you occupied including several museums on Indian military history and martyrs. There is a restaurant in the restored tea pavilion and endless nooks and crannies to explore. It is a very busy attraction but, because of its size, it is not hard to lose the crowds and get some space and monuments to yourself.
We, despite a rocky start, had a fantastic afternoon at the Red Fort. It is so much more than it looks like from the outside and is perfect for our style of sightseeing. You can just come in and wander through the ruins and preserved buildings at your own pace, find your own quiet corners and just enjoy the splendour.
The inside of the scattered pavilions are incredible!
Visiting Delhi's Red Fort – Essential Information
Where is the Red Fort?
The Red Fort is located in Old Delhi, you can find it on a map here:
How to get to the Red Fort from New Delhi or by metro
The nearest metro station is Lal Qila on the Violet line. From here it is a very short walk to the entrance.
Rickshaws, taxis and tuk-tuks can easily be hailed down for a ride in Delhi. You can either pull one over on the street, or request one on the Uber or Ola apps (we’d recommend using the apps to avoid any unwanted negotiation).
If you would like to arrange your SIM card in advance of landing in India why not check out the eSIM packages available on Airalo. If you are looking to get a physical SIM card after you have landed, make sure you have read our guide here.
How to get to the Red Fort from Old Delhi
You can easily walk to the Red Fort from most of Old Delhi, especially if you have been exploring the winding streets of Chandni Chowk (or have been on an amazing food tour there). For those with tired feet or who want to avoid the hustle and bustle then we suggest hailing a cab see above for our tips on this.
How to buy and how much are tickets to Delhi's Red Fort?
We paid 550 rupees (£5.23 / $6.83) online for tickets. If you are an Indian National the price is just 35 rupee (£0.33/$0.42). You can book online from the entrance plaza or in advance here.
If you're already at the Red Fort without a ticket there are QR codes allowing you to book tickets from your phone. There is a physical ticket counter, although the queues may be large and are separate from the queues to get into the Red Fort itself.
We were lucky when we visited as, despite the massive local queue, the foreigner queue was non-existent. We have heard it can get very busy even for foreigners, with 1-2 hour queues.
You can buy “Skip the Line” tickets through TripAdvisor which allows you to prebook a slot in the morning and includes: a pick up from your accommodation in Delhi, a driver to take you to the Fort and entry tickets to get in. There is also the option to upgrade the tour to include a guide.
Can do a tour or have a guide to the Red Fort?
You definitely can! Be wary of the many people offering this service outside of the Red Fort as they are possibly just chancing it to make some money. You can arrange a tour from your hotel / hostel or book online with TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide.
If you’re short on time we’d recommend checking out a guided tour to combine a few of Delhi’s top attractions into one full day of sightseeing. Have a look at Get Your Guide’s offerings below. They offer vetted and rated tours thoughout Delhi and India:
Are there toilets in the Red Fort?
Yes, there are several public toilets in the Red Fort. For the nicer toilets head to the museums or the tea room / restaurant.
Is there food and drink available to buy at the Red Fort?
Yes there is. There is a formal restaurant as well as a smaller more local style cafe and several snack stands dotted about. The smaller cafe towards the back of the grounds was very reasonable for our two ice creams!
How long do I need to spend at the Red Fort?
The site is massive, you could spend 40 minutes just walking around the edge of it. We spent a good couple of hours wandering around and nosing through the buildings and ruins. If you were to go through the museums or have a tour guide it would definitely keep you occupied for an hour or two more.
Despite its popularity it is easy to escape the crowds at the Red Fort
Is the Red Fort worth visiting?
Of course it is, we wouldn't have written over 1300 words if we hadn't enjoyed ourselves! It is a fascinating jumble of history, architecture and ruin. The white and red marble of its half-preserved buildings is stunning and you can really feel the grandeur and splendour of the Mughal age as you explore the grounds.
Thanks for reading
John and Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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All You Need To Know About The Indian Capital - A Guide For First Time Travellers In Delhi
The Indian capital of Delhi is a chaotic and overwhelming destination. The backpacker district of Paharganj with its narrow alleyways and busy streets is an especially hectic entrance to an already intense country. Read our guide for all the information you’ll need for a painless transition from the international airport to your hostel or hotel in the centre of Delhi. Also including what to do, where to eat and how to maximise your time in Delhi.
India is a land of total contrasts. From the ancient stone palaces and temples that line the River Ganges in Varanasi, to the glass fronted high rise offices that dominate the skyline of Mumbai. It’s a chaotic blend of the ancient and the modern. The capital city of Delhi is a perfect example of these contrasts: Ancient observatories butt up against modern offices. a clean, modern metro links forts and castles with homes and industries. The food, culture and history of delhi are rich, deep and as full of twists and turns as the city’s ancient markets. As you take your first step out of the airport, you’ll be thrown straight into the thick of it. You’ll be greeted by a whirlpool of colour, sound and smell. Delhi really is, a city like no other!
As you come into land into Indira Gandhi International Airport (DEL), the Indian capital of Delhi stretches out as far as the eye can see. An urban patchwork of concrete buildings interlaced by ribbons of dark streets threading out in every direction. Home to over 33 million people, the Indian capital can seem a little daunting for new travellers, but give Delhi a chance and you’ll be rewarded with a city full of history, culture and fantastic food.
This is our third visit to Delhi, and on each visit we’ve loved our time in the city. Read on and we’ll help you to find your feet in this incredible mega metropolis!
In this guide to Pahargangj and Old Delhi:
How to get to Paharganj?
What to do in Paharganj and Old Delhi?
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Why is India seen as such a challenge to travel?
Travelling India can be quite a challenge. Not always in a dangerous way, but in a bureaucratic way that makes it difficult for travellers to get by. Even doing the simplest of tasks such as paying for things online or buying a ticket will require you to have an Indian account.
To book tickets or access ticket purchasing apps for trains and buses you will need an Indian mobile phone number. This should be simple right? Just go and buy a SIM card? No! Even getting a SIM card is tricky, as without having an Indian national to vouch for you, you can no longer buy a SIM card at the airport.
Even checking into a hostel or visiting a museum will likely require you to fill out reams of paperwork and sign your name in a mighty tome. India, despite its mega status within the world standings, is a country full of rules and old-fashioned hurdles that unfortunately all travellers need to adhere to just to get by.
We’ve written a whole article on all the important stuff such as getting a mobile SIM card, ATMS, essential apps to download etc. which will hopefully allow you to have a smooth landing whilst travelling the country. Read our guide for all the tips and tricks you need for travelling India here.
Landing at Delhi Airport - all the essential information you need
For most backpackers and international travellers arriving in Delhi, you’ll almost 100% of the time be landing at Indira Gandhi International Airport’s Terminal 3. As with all airports, it’s very straightforward getting off the plane. As usual, just follow the signs to immigration and baggage. When you reach the passport desks at immigration, make sure you have downloaded an offline copy of your visa and have it in hand. The Immigration Officers will almost certainly ask you what your plans are during your stay in India, so just tell them a rough itinerary of where you’re planning on heading too. Once you’ve got that all important visa stamp, head through to baggage reclaim and collect your luggage.
Important tip - WIFI AT Terminal 3 Indira Gandhi International Airport
Before you leave baggage and exit customs, make sure you connect to the airport's WIFI. In Delhi’s terminal 3, you can only connect to the WIFI before you exit customs. After this point there’s no way you can connect to WIFI in the airport. Trust us, we found out the hard way! There are information stands with WIFI “coupons” you need to use to connect before customs and baggage, but once you’ve left this area and have gone through the point of no return, there are no WIFI information stands.
Not wanting to waste any time in baggage, we naively thought that we’d just connect to the free airport WIFI once we had left the “nothing to declare” area. We were very wrong! We hunted high and low in the arrivals terminal for another WIFI but couldn't find any connections to connect to. We even brought a coffee in the vague hope the staff at Costa Coffee would let us connect to their WIFI. Spoiler, they did not!
If you, like us, either forget or don’t connect to WIFI beforehand , then make sure you have Google Maps and Google Translate downloaded for offline use to help you get to your accommodation.
ATM’s at the Airport
Outside of customs the first thing you’ll need is some Indian rupees. Just next-door to the main entrance is a glass booth full of ATM machines. Use these to withdraw your cash and once ready, head out into the chaos. Make sure you withdraw cash here before exiting the terminal building as you won’t be allowed back in once you’ve exited!
Now you’ve got your visa stamped and your rupee in hand, you’ve now got three choices on how to get to Paharganj.
What is Paharganj?
Paharganj is a district in Old Delhi. Cut through by one large thoroughfare called the Main Bazar, Parharganj splits off this main road in a maze of small streets full of tiny shops, restaurants and street food stalls. The area has become the “go to” district for backpackers and travellers alike, and as a result the area has lots of budget accommodation, hostels and hotels to choose from.
You can find paharganj on a map here.
Paharganj district backs onto the New Delhi Railway Station which is a major station for getting in and around Delhi and further afield. The area is also only a short twenty minute drive away from the ISBT bus station (inter state bus station) for those taking a bus to their next destination.
How to get to Paharganj?
Taxi to Paharganj
The poshpacker way would be to jump into a pre-arranged taxi and get driven to Paharganj. If this is your preferred way of travel, you can book your airport transfer in advance here. If you’d prefer, you can even arrange someone to meet you in the airport itself, before jumping in a car to take you to your accommodation. You can book this type of transfer here.
If you have an eSIM (click here to buy an Indian SIM in advance) or have managed to score an Indian SIM, you can use Uber to get from the airport to your accommodation. The Ubers cannot come to the terminal itself, just follow the signs to the Uber pick up zone.
Using public transport to get to Paharganj
For those on a more tight budget, Delhi airport is linked to the city by bus or an express metro service.
Getting to Paharganj by bus
Buses run from both Terminal 1 and 3 at Delhi airport, running every 30 minutes 24/7. If you’re arriving very late at night (after 11.30pm or before 4.45am), this would be a cheap way to get into the city.
However, at any other time of day, the buses will have to contend with Delhi’s notoriously busy roads. We would, therefore, recommend using the Delhi Metro, as it’s extremely cheap and is a very fast way to get you into the centre of Delhi, regardless of the traffic above ground.
Getting to Paharganj by the Express Metro
Exit the airport terminal and follow the signs towards the IGI Airport Metro station. The station is located just below a small shopping complex. Head through the small mall and down the escalators to find the station itself.
Whenever you enter a station in Delhi (and the whole of India) you will need to go through a security check. Queue up in your respective line (men and women queue up in separate lines), put your bags through the scanner and head through the metal detector.
Once through security, queue up at the ticket counter to purchase your ticket. There are ticket machines in the station, but these were not working when we visited and it looked as though you could only top up metro cards, not purchase a single ticket. If this is incorrect information, do let us know in the comments below.
A ticket to New Delhi metro station costs 60 rupees (£0.57 or £0.72). At the ticket counter there were separate windows for cash and card payments. Just check before you queue up for which one you need. This is a very busy station and queues for tickets can get quite long, expect some barging and some attempts at butting in to the line to occur, but just stand your ground! Once you’ve bought your ticket, head down the escalators to platform 3. After a quick journey (4 stops on the orange line), you’ll have arrived at New Delhi metro station.
To get to Paharganj from New Delhi Metro Station, head up the escalators and follow the signs to New Delhi Railway Station. Exit the metro station and cross the footbridge over the busy main road. When you reach the railway station, continue through security and enter the station. Follow the footbridge over the platforms until you reach the exit on the opposite side of the station. Head out of the carpark and you’ll be on the outer fringes of the Paharganj area.
Just a word of warning, compared to the relative calm of the metro and airport, the carpark and roads outside of the railway station are chockablock and are quite literally filled to the brim with rickshaws, people and stalls, it's a chaotic entry to get into the Paharganj area, but like we said, nothing in India is ever straightforward!
What times do metro trains run from IGI metro station to New Delhi metro station?
Trains run very frequently from this station, with a train running every 15 minutes at peak times, and every 30 minutes off-peak. The first train departs at 4.45am in the morning and the last train departs at 11.30pm at night. If you’re arriving at the airport outside of these times, you may have to take a bus or stay in the airport terminal until the trains resume.
If you are arriving at night into Delhi airport, we’d probably recommend a prearranged taxi or using a taxi app such as Uber to get into the city centre. Arriving at night is never fun, no matter where you are, let alone the narrow, chaotic streets of the Paharganj district. A taxi would at least take you to your accommodation's front door, and you wouldn’t be left to tackle the labyrinth of tiny alleyways in the dark! Be careful with taxi’s however, a few of the more common tourist scams revolve around taxis and are prevalent around the airport. Check out later in the article for more details on what to look out for.
Where to stay in Paharganj?
Paharganj has accommodation for every kind of budget. The area is full of hostels, guesthouses and hotels, whatever you want to spend, there’s a bed for everyone.
Just a word of warning, as it is the capital of India, we’ve found the cost per bed per night to be a little higher in Delhi than elsewhere in the country.
The backpacker accommodation choice:
We stayed in the excellent Zostel Delhi and cannot recommend it highly enough. Set just off the main road between New Delhi Railway Station and the outer fringes of Paharganj, this hostel was perfect for our needs. We opted for a private room and en-suite and weren’t disappointed. The bedroom was super comfy with a large double bed, a desk and chair to work at, a coffee table and even a kettle with free tea and coffee to use. The shower was piping hot whenever we used it, and they even had bedside lamps, which is a rarity for us as backpackers! The hostel had a cafe serving food all day, a comfy common area to relax in and even a rooftop seating area.
What set Zostel Delhi apart from other hostels we’ve stayed in, was the staff. They were extremely helpful from the get go. Messaging us by WhatsApp the day before to confirm our booking and check in time, (if you’ve read about our first ever night in Delhi you’ll know why this was a relief to us), checking that we had our transport to the hostel and offering to sort out a pick up taxi service if we needed it. All of this as well as accompanying us to sort out our SIM cards (see below).
Zostel Delhi is the perfect sanctuary to escape to after a busy day exploring on the hectic streets of Delhi. To book your stay at the hostel click here.
Other Paharganj Accommodation options
If hostels aren’t your thing, check out the map below for all the other accommodation choices within the Paharganj district:
If you are looking for higher end accommodation check out the list on this link here for highly rated private rooms.
Getting an Indian SIM card
As we mentioned above, as a foreigner you can no longer just buy a SIM card from the airport, but instead need an Indian national with an Indian phone number to vouch for you. As we were checking in at Zostel, the staff asked if we had an Indian SIM and offered to assist us in getting one. We quickly dumped our bags in our room, and followed a member of staff to a shop over the road, who ran through our SIM card options and got our new Indian sims to be installed. All in all it was a very quick process, and our lives in Delhi were made much easier with a SIM card and data.
We went for Airtel SIM cards that cost us 750 rupees for 1.5GB of data per day on a 28 day contract. If you’re staying for longer than 28 days, check out our article all about topping up your data here.
Make sure you download the Airtel app to keep track of your usage and look out for freebies. Both times we have visited India Airtel have given us unlimited 5g Data for free through the app, so definitely worth checking out.
If you want to arrange a SIM in advance, have a look into eSIMs. You can buy a virtual SIM card for pretty much any country (including India) before you even land.
We’d recommend taking a look at Airalo who have plenty of different packages to choose from depending on the length of contract you want and how much data you need. Check out the eSIMs available here.
What to do in Paharganj?
Exploring Paharganj
Paharganj is a fascinating enclave. On either side of the Main Bazar, tiny alleyways jet out creating a rabbit warren of market stalls and street food. Take a walk down any street and get lost amongst the chaotic tangle. As you walk through this colourful district, you’ll never know what you’re going to find. You will pass small street side shrines adorned with bright orange marigolds. Your ears will be assaulted by the popping of oil as you pass street sellers selling deep fried samosas and dusty alleyways filled to the brim with honking rickshaws vying for space. In amongst all of this market stall holders will be causing minor traffic jams as they push their fruity wares around on old wooden push carts. Lob a few wandering cows into this and you get the idea, it is not a calm place! It’s a mesmerising mix of colour, food, sound and smell.
We would recommend taking a walk at whatever time of day and just get lost amongst the hubbub.
Paharganj really comes alive after dark!
If you would like a guided tour of the Paharganj area, Viator offer two different tours starting in the Paharganj area of Delhi:
Red Fort of Old Delhi
Delhi’s iconic Red Fort should not be missed. This enormous fortification stands proudly in the heart of Old Delhi. It is the number one tourist attraction in the city and this is for a good reason! Full of incredible architecture, ruins and beautiful grounds it’s a great day out. Read all about our time at the Red Fort here.
Take a food tour
One of the easiest ways to immerse yourself in India’s beating heart is to take yourself on a food tour. We took an excellent food tour with A Chef’s Tour who will walk you through the historic Chandni Chowk market area of Old Delhi. We spent a good four hours eating over 15 dishes and learning all about the fascinating history of the area. We also visited Delhi’s Spice Market, the world’s largest spice market, as well as seeing a beautiful Sikh temple.
We can’t recommend this tour enough, to learn more about what we got up to on our day of Delhi dining, click here.
Connaught Place
For those who are facing a little sensory overload and are looking for some Western comforts, we’d recommend grabbing a rickshaw and heading 10 minutes south down the road to Connaught Place.
Circling a small park (with a very large Indian flag), Connaught Place is a great place to stock up on anything you forgot to pack. Connaugt Place is full of international stores, selling everything from clothes, books and electronics. If you’re after a new pair of Levis jeans or some Adidas trainers, Connaught Place will have you covered.
Make sure you head below ground to the Palika Bazaar, an underground market below the streets of Connaught Place for stalls selling clothing, accessories and much more.
After you’ve had your shopping fix and, if you’re looking to eat something a bit more familiar, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants as well as Starbucks, McDonalds and Dominoes pizza.
At night the Connaugt place area is full of bars and restaurants, Lord of the Drinks was a bar recommended by our hostel but we have not sampled it yet!
The Jantar Mantar
Just south of Connaught Place is the ancient observatory of Jantar Mantar. Full of incredible stone sculptures and towering astronomical instruments. Read all about this fantastic site here.
The Agrasen Ki Baoli
Within walking distance of both Connaught Place and the Jantar Mantar is the ancient stepwell of Agrasen Ki Baoli, an ancient water tank built to preserve the monsoon rains. Read more about visiting this historic reservoir here.
More things to do in Delhi
Lodhi Gardens
This green space is like a breath of fresh air amongst the crowded streets of Delhi. Full of ancient monuments, ponds and a yoga lawn this green oasis is a great place to unwind and get back to nature.
Lodhi Gardens is a true oasis in the Indian capital.
Safdarjung’s Tomb
This spectacular mausoleum is well worth a visit. With impressive grounds and amazing architecture. Check out our experience and guide here .
Sunder Nursery
The Sunder Nursery is another green surprise amongst Delhi’s busy streets. A beautiful set of manicured gardens speckled with UNESCO world heritage ruins. It is a fantastic place to have a picnic on a sunny day. Read our guide here.
Humayun’s Tomb
This is another beautiful Delhi site that could easily be combined with the Sunder Nursery above. This incredible tomb is often referred to as a mini Taj Mahal. The tomb and grounds are stunning and 100% worth including in your Delhi itinerary, read more about it here.
Taking a private tour around Delhi
For those short on time, or looking to combine several disparate sites in a single outing, then why not book a guided tour. Check out what’s on offer on TripAdvisor or Get Your Guide. These tours can be booked online in advance giving you piece of mind and a full day out seeing some of the best attractions Delhi has to offer.
Where to eat in Paharganj?
As soon as you step out of your accommodation in Paharganj there’s food everywhere. From restaurants to street side stalls, you won’t be far from some good grub. We had an excellent meal of mutton biryani and a vegetable thali at Flavours restaurant on Arkashan Road where food was made fresh from scratch in the open kitchen right in front of you.
We also had another delicious vegetable thali from the Gurdev Punjabi Restaurant (location) which owns four restaurants arranged around a T-junction. For those moving on by train, there’s plenty of street food stalls on the main road opposite the train station for you to pick up paratha, roti or samosa for your onward journey.
A lot of people get very worried about eating the food in India, but just make sure you pick somewhere which is busy with locals and the food is cooked fresh in front of you. We’d also recommend carrying some hand sanitiser and wet wipes with you! A lot of the food will involve dipping some form of bread in curry, so cleaning your hands before and after is a must.
Common scams in Delhi - things to be aware of!
Read any guide book or review online about Delhi or the Paharganj district and sadly, you’ll quickly see lots of people talking about being scammed. Unfortunately, scams can be quite a common occurrence and we couldn’t write an article without acknowledging this.
Here are a few of the ruses to be aware of:
Delhi Taxi scams
The most common taxi scams in Delhi will simply be overcharging you for your journey, or taking you somewhere other than your requested destination. Sometimes this will be a shop or a “tourist help centre” that the driver will be compensated for bringing you to. Do not buy from a “tourist help centre” EVER - see the next scam.
Make sure, if you are not using a ride-hailing app, that the destination and price are agreed and understood before getting in any taxi or rickshaw.
The scams can be quite elaborate with third parties dressed in official clothing saying whole districts are closed or “police” stating your hotel is full/closed. Speak with your hotel before you land and establish your route there. If you are in a taxi and a driver starts to tell you your hotel / destination isn't there or is closed, just say it is where you're meeting your friends and to take you there anyway!
To get around these kind of scams we would recommend getting an Indian SIM or eSIM as soon as you can so that you can use Uber or Ola to arrange your rickshaw and taxi rides. This will remove any unwanted negotiation about the journey price and will also mean you know that you’re going to wherever it was you wanted to go to. If you are using Uber it has safety features built in and you can contact them if you think you are going off course.
Arriving from at the airport (if you do not have an eSIM) means that you wont be able to book your Uber or Ola. If you are not planning on using public transport it may be worth liasing with your hotel for an airport pick up. They will send someone and give you a passphrase so you know you are in the correct taxi.
If for whatever reason a taxi does not deliver you to where you expect it to, do not take any advice from the driver or any person at the location they brought you to. Use an app and book another taxi away from there. Honestly Uber, Ola and the ride hailing apps are worth the SIM card price alone - In the modern era with live GPS maps and tracking there is no reason to take the chance. Also these apps make it so cheap and easy to get around the busy streets of Delhi!
“Tourist Agency” / Tourist Help Centre Scams in Delhi
Another unfortunately common scam is that the taxi driver or “helpful local” will tell you that your hotel no longer exists, is flooded, or is too dangerous for a nice foreigner like you. The “good samaritan” might just ask you about your India plans and then be “shocked” at you attempting something so “ridiculous”, “difficult” or “dangerous”. They will then take you to a “Tourist Help Centre” or “respectable travel agency” - This is a scam - your itinerary is fine they are preying on your insecurities to sell you an overpriced, unwanted and possibly more dangerous replacement..
The so called “Tourist Help Centre” is not there to help you. These centres / travel agencies are scams designed to pressure you into buying overpriced tour packages, hotels or flights from them. These packages will be very expensive for bad or nonexistant services. We encountered a very persistant man near Connaugt place. He wanted us to go to “the only honest travel agency in Delhi” with him as he just couldnt let two such lovely foreigners try and catch a train all by themselves… He wanted us to book flights through his most honest brother instead…to somewhere entirely different… We declined his offer.
General safety and advice to prevent scams in Delhi and India
Delhi is a large city, with a huge wealth disparity. As with anywhere, be cautious with your belongings. Like most places in the world, pickpocketing can happen. We don’t want to scare you or anything but just exercise a little caution.
A good tip for bypassing scammers is to never admit it is your first time / day in India. It will be one of the first questions you are asked by “friendly” people who approach you in the street. Just say you have been here many times and that you are visiting friends or family. The scammer will quickly drop you for a more naive target. Sometimes they will probe you about where you have been, just claim you have already been to where you are planning to go! Honestly, it aws amazing how many conversations have ended just after we told a “friendly” man that we’ve been in India for 6 months!
For solo female travelers, the advice is the same but much more so. India has a real problem with mysogenistic behaviour especially in the more rural parts of the country. Ellie did not experience anything of the kind in the capital city but, we are a man and a woman travelling as a couple, so may not be the usual target of it. Do your research and excersise appropriate caution. India is an amazing and wonderful country but do not put yourself in harms way.
Scams rely on disoriatating you and then preying on your confusion and newness to the country. Confidence and knowledge are the best way to combat them. Even in situations where something has “gone wrong” - Cancelled train, non existant hotel etc - try and project confidence. Scammers are looking for an easy target and will move on elsewhere if you look like you know whats up!
Delhi is a wonderful city full of great people, it is just that as a tourist, the ones looking for an easy payday will gravitate to you. A little knowledge will put you out of the reach of most of the common scams you are ever likely to come across.
This has been a negative section to write but you should be aware of the scams and issues that could pop up. We are fairly experienced travellers and had Indian SIM cards as soon as possible. In our six months in India we were never scammed, we instead were surrounded by amazing lovely people and incredible places.
Conclusion - Visiting Delhi and Pahargnaj
Delhi often gets snubbed by travellers. People often just land at the airport and make a quick exit heading straight to Jaipur or Agra, but if you give it a chance, the Indian capital has plenty to keep you occupied. We’ve met a lot of travellers who hated Delhi, but we’d say the complete opposite. It’s one of our favourite cities we’ve ever been to and love the crazy mix of chaos and calm, pollution and parks, street food and high class cuisine.
Just take it easy, immersive yourself gently and make sure you have a comfy room to retreat back to! As travellers we often feel that we need to do everything, from visiting all the sites to trying all the street food. We’d say don’t be too hard on yourself, take things slowly, and if you want that McDonald’s burger, go and have it! No one’s going to judge you. Although we would say, give some of Delhi’s street food a chance, it is delicious!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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If you’ve enjoyed reading this article, why not save the pin below?
If you’re heading to Delhi, why not read some of our other Delhi blogs?
If you’re heading elsewhere in India, check out what else we’ve been up to below.
24 Hours in Bikaner - An Overlooked Gem in Rajasthan
The Rajasthani city of Bikaner is often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours of Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Read our guide to find out why you should not miss this underrated gem of Rajasthan. From the incredible fort to the famous rat temple, read our article for the complete guide to Bikaner.
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Bikaner is not really on the tourist trail. Many travellers will find themselves just passing through it between Punjab’s Amritsar and Rajasthan’s Jaisalmer, but few travellers linger to explore. This overlooked town deserves your attention, give it a chance and it has some amazing sites to share!
Where is Bikaner?
Bikaner is a large city in the state of Rajasthan. It is located to the north of Jaisalmer, Jodhpur and Ajmer and northwest of the Rajasthani capital, Jaipur.
How to get to Bikaner?
Bikaner is one of the main transport links between the states of Rajasthan and Punjab. Travelling by train from Rajasthan to the Punjabi city of Amritsar, will almost certainly bring you through, or force you to change trains at Bikaner. There are train links to the Rajasthani cities of Jodhpur, Jaipur and Jaisalmer and further afield to Delhi.
For those on the road, there are buses and minivans from most large cities and towns in the area and the neighbouring states.
To book both buses and train tickets in advance check out 12Go.
We arrived in Bikaner after an overnight bus from Amritsar, which arrived very early in the morning. This gave us a full day to explore Bikaner before catching our overnight train onwards to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan.
Things to do in Bikaner
The Shri Laxminath Jain Temple (Location)
The magnificent Shri Laxminath temple is an essential stop. The temple's Jain builders were so wealthy that they eschewed mere water for the foundation mix and instead built the temple on clarified butter (ghee). The inside of the temple is, simply put, gorgeous! Incredible paintings and carvings adorn every surface. No expense has been spared in the veneration of the holy here, gold guilt, mirrored tiles and bright colours are everywhere without ever coming across as ostentatious.
Entry to the temple is free, but a donation is appreciated.
The temple is right in the centre of town, surrounded by colourful markets selling everything from saris to watermelons. Whilst we visited, we were lucky enough to to time our visit (completely by accident) to watch a procession wind its way past the temple. Camels, masked riders, dancers and ladies with coconut head dresses streamed past, apparently accompanying a holy relic out of a nearby temple. India is always surprising and colourful but this was a feast for the eyes!
Shree Kami Mata - The Rat Temple of Bikaner (Location)
Set around thirty minutes by car or tuk tuk outside of Bikaner is the Shree Kami Mata more commonly known in the West as the Rat Temple. The temple is over 500 years old and is the focal point of an incredible Hindu legend and tradition. What follows here is an extremely loose retelling of the story:
“A local called Kami Mata was the embodiment of the great goddess Shakti. Kami Maya’s youngest (surrogate as she remained celibate) son drowned in a nearby lake and she was implored to bring him back to life. Kami Mata went to where the temple now stands, sealed herself inside and spoke with the God of Death. The God of Death asked her how reincarnation would continue to work if she resurrected the son? Kami Mata replied that for her family and dependents: “Wherever I live, they will live. When they die, they will stay with me”. Kami Mata chose the form of the holy rodent and whenever one of her lineage dies it is said to be reborn for one cycle with her, as a rodent in the temple!”
The temple now has over 20,000 holy rodents who are revered and respected by pilgrims and devotees. Milk and food offerings are left out and the rats run freely everywhere.
Just some of the temple’s holy rats!
Eating a scrap of food the rodents have nibbled is considered very auspicious and sighting of a white rat is the luckiest of all as they are thought to represent Kami Mata herself or one of her immediate sons.
Shree Kami Mata is Bikaner’s most famous or infamous attraction to tourists. Firstly, describing the rat temple as “infamous” and “an attraction” is a bit snobby and entirely unfair. Shree Kami Mata is not meant to be a tourist attraction and is centred around the belief of reincarnation. The temple rats are the ancestors of the worshipers and they are venerated and cared for accordingly. So, if as a tourist, you are creeped out by the rats or underwhelmed by the temple, remember it isn’t about or for you.
We found it to have been an interesting experience with an incredible legend behind it. We were glad we had come but, honestly it’s not a site for mass tourism no matter how many tours want to include it. Go because you want to see faith in practice, to see devotion to reincarnation and respect for peoples ancestors. Do not go to shriek at how icky you feel because a rat ran across your foot. On that note you should also remember, no shoes are allowed in the temple!
As we have alluded to above, if you want to visit the temple most of the tours from Bikaner will include it. If you have your own transport, Shree Kami Mata is around 30km outside of Bikaner. There is also a train station at nearby Deshnoke but we couldn’t find the exact train schedule.
The temple is free to enter and you can store your shoes nearby to the foot washing stations for a small donation. We’d recommend not wearing socks as the floor is quite ratty but you can wash your feet on the way out.
Bikaner Junagarh Fort - (Location)
Dominating the centre of the OldTtown is the grand, sprawling, towering edifice of the Junagarh Fort. Towers, arches and colonnades clutter every surface of the building, nothing has been left unadorned! The Junagarh Fort is a beautiful, amazing building that has been kept in fantastic condition and the halls and rooms inside are jewel boxes of coloured stones, mirrors and glass.
Junagarth translates to “Old Fort”, it was renamed this when the ruling family moved out to another nearby palace. Before the renaming Junagarh Fort was known as Chimtamani.
The fort houses a great museum containing many artefacts and items, from palanquins, paintings and mediaeval weaponry to a restored World War One aeroplane! We came here after our visit to Shree Kami Mata Temple and had a great few hours wandering the jewel encrusted rooms and admiring the beautiful architecture.
Dotted around the main fort building are the overgrown remains of the fort's outbuildings. Also outside of the fort are some beautiful gardens but it was unclear if we could access them as they seemed to be setting up for a wedding or other large event.
Entrance to Junagarh Fort costs 400 rupee each (£3.80 or $4.81) for foreigners (considerably cheaper for Indian nationals), you can take group tours or just walk yourself around. There is a pricey but very pretty cafe in the grounds as well as toilet facilities.
Exploring Bikaner Old Town and the Haveli’s
Bikaner Old town is a spiralling knot of cobbled streets and alleys, lined with beautiful old architecture. We were based in the old town near the Rampuria Haveli. Haveli are traditional townhouses, usually built long ago by wealthy nobles.
The Rampuria Haveli is, according to Aldous Huxley, “The Pride of Bikaner”, a gorgeous red sandstone building that seems to appear out of nowhere as you turn a corner in the Old Town. The Rampuria Haveli was constructed by the wealthy Rampuria merchant family (it is not certain when, but the internet states around 1400) and has been renovated many times by its inhabitants. It now has a beautiful blend of architectural styles from traditional Indian to more European influences. Portions of the Haveli are open to the public.
We spent the last of our day in Bikaner wandering the streets of the Old Town, it was almost like stepping back in time. Save for the occasional motorbike and tuk tuk you could have been in any era in the last few centuries. Children played with balls on the cobbled streets, washing crossed the lanes overhead and all around was the architecture of yesterday.
Please note, we visited Bikaner in the out of season hot months and found it to be quiet and relaxed. When researching this article we noticed lots of reviews of the Old Town seem to say the exact opposite so beware that it may get very busy in peak seasons. If you visit when we did (July time) just be aware that it will be scorchingly hot during the day!
How to visit Bikaner, where to stay and how long do you need?
This is a difficult question to answer as, due to a mix up with the trains, we didn't stay overnight in Bikaner. All of the above activities were done in one, unhurried day so you could do this in a day like we did. There are more things to explore in the town and you could definitely get another day or so and spread your activities out if you wanted to.
If you’re doing Bikaner in a day, or if you have a long wait between trains, we would recommend contacting one of the local guest houses and buying a room for the day. We did this very inexpensively, paying around £15.00 / $19.00 for two meals (for two people) and a private room with hot shower for the day as well as a tuk tuk taxi to the train station in the evening. If we were just to buy the room itself, it would have been much cheaper (700 rupee or £6.65 / $8.42) but the food was great and the taxi gave us peace of mind. After an overnight bus and before an overnight train, the shower and privacy were a godsend! It was also great to have a secure place to leave all our bags whilst we explored and to charge our phones.
We used the M.I guesthouse as it is smack bang in the middle of the Old Town, and allowed us to wander about the beautiful old streets. The guest house was very helpful with our train mix up and arranging our tour. The tour of the Jain temple and the Shree Kami Mata (rat temple), including a guide and a driver who dropped us off at the fort at the end of the tour. This cost us 1500 rupees (£14.25 or $18.04). This was well worth it for us to have it all arranged for us as we only had a day to explore. If you have longer you may have been able to find another operator who could do it cheaper but honestly it was worth the money!
If you’re only there for a day, try and time your arrival for early in the morning and leave in the evening or later at night so you can maximise your time in Bikaner.
Bikaner, is it worth a visit?
We know that is a clickbait heading but, hey people do search for these things! Of course Bikaner is worth your time, it is beautiful, full of history and amazing buildings. Tourists only seem to stop and go to the rat temple for the photos but there is so much more to the city than that. The fort is stunning, the Jain temple marvellous and the Old Town seems straight out of a storybook. If you have the time, or find yourself between trains, Bikaner is fantastic.
Where to stay in Bikaner?
For those with time on their side, or for those who would like to stay a little longer in Bikaner than just a day, then there is plenty of accommodation to choose from. Check out the map below:
Other things to do in Bikaner?
If you’re looking for other things to do in Bikaner, or would like to book a tour of the city in advance, check out Get Your Guide.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Safdarjung's Tomb - A Mughal Mini Taj Mahal in The Heart of New Delhi
Safdarjung’s Tomb is a Delhi delight! The Mini Taj as it is affectionately known is definitely worth adding to any itinerary in the Indian capital. Check out our guide for all the facts you need to visit the amazing Tomb of Safdarjung!
Delhi is full of surprises. From the unexpected amount of green spaces, amazing food and incredible architecture. It is a city brimming with colour, tradition and buildings from antiquity. You can literally walk down a street and stumble upon an ancient temple sharing the pavement with a modern coffee shop. History is everywhere in Delhi and Safdarjung's Tomb was just such a beautiful relic of the past!
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Where is Safdarjung's Tomb?
Safdarjung's Tomb is located in the south of Delhi. In the midst of embassies, wide boulevards, and neighbours with the Lodhi Garden and Khan Market, Safdarjung's Tomb is ideally placed for a day out in Delhi. Although easily overlooked for more famous Delhi monuments, Safdarjung’s Tomb is well worth your time.
How to get to Safdarjung's Tomb?
Safdarjung's Tomb is located in southern Delhi (location).
It is easily accessible by car, auto rickshaw, or ride hailing app e.g. Uber / Ola.
For those travelling by public transport, the nearest metro station is Jorbagh on the yellow metro line.
There is also a bus stop right outside the entrance serving multiple routes throughout Delhi.
Ticket price for Safdarjung’s Tomb
Entrance tickets cost 300 rupees each for foreigners (£2.90 or $3.62).
There are many touts outside the front entrance trying to sell "tickets or tours". We can't speculate on the tours as we didn't take one but their offered ticket prices were higher than the official cost.
The ticket booth is to the right of the main archway.
What is Safdarjung's Tomb?
Safdarjung's Tomb is, surprise, surprise, a tomb! Built in the Mughal style, this red stone and marble mausoleum rises up the centre of a beautiful "paradise garden". Often known as the mini Taj Mahal, this tomb actually provided a blueprint for its more famous cousin in Agra.
Why should you visit?
Let's get this out the way, Safdarjung's Tomb is gorgeous.
An incredible building surrounded by beautiful gardens, set amongst peaceful water channels. Safdarjung's Tomb does not (or at least did not whilst we were there) suffer from the overcrowding, common in other ancient sites. We were far from the only ones there, but it never felt crowded and you never had to wait in an Instagram queue to take a nice photo. We can absolutely recommend Safdarjung's Tomb as a calm and beautiful place to walk around and take in incredible architecture.
Our experience of Safdarjung's Tomb
We hadn't known what to expect. We hadn't even heard about Safdarjung's or his tomb until we were recommended it by a fellow traveller whilst sat around a fire pit in Nong Khiaw, Laos!
From the entrance gate you could be forgiven for thinking this is a small site, just needing a quick stop before moving on, but don't judge a monument by its gateway! As you walk through the arched gatehouse and out into the sunshine, the sheer scale of the place is instantly and eye wideningly apparent.
In pleasingly geometric precise lines, water channels stretch from a fountain near the entrance, up a manicured, palm lined avenue to the steps of the great tomb. Set on top of its red sandstone terrace, the tomb sits like the gnomon of a sundial in the centre of the garden. Its white dome pointing skywards and contrasting with the green of the plants and red of the mausoleum.
On each of the square terrace’s four sides the water channel is mirrored, stretching out from the central tomb to the surrounding walls.
On the right hand side, a dramatic three domed mosque sits in the border wall, whilst all around formal gardens bloom.
Walking inside the tomb itself, the ornately carved dome towered high above us. All around the walls were intricately carved with stone latices, allowing the sunlight to glimmer through and cast beautiful geometric shadows across the marble.
The tombs themselves are, in typical Mughal fashion, understated small clean marble affairs that emphasise the grandeur of their surroundings. The tomb and terrace were gorgeous places, their elevated position giving great views across the garden. From up on the terrace Safdarjung's Tomb looks like an oasis, surrounded by modern New Delhi on all sides.
In the chaos of Delhi you've got to find your peaceful places, and the gardens of Safdarjung's Tomb were definitely that. With peacocks strolling around the gardens and eagles circling overhead. It was quite literally a breath of fresh air!
How long do you need to spend visiting Safdarjung's Tomb?
Despite the size of the grounds, you can see all that the tomb has to offer within an hour or so. If you've brought a picnic or if you just want to chill out in the beautiful gardens, you can of course stay longer.
We'd recommend pairing a visit to the tomb with a trip to the Lodhi Garden which is practically next door. After walking through the Lodhi Garden, you could treat yourself to an upmarket coffee or meal at the nearby Khan Market.
What facilities are at Safdarjung's Tomb?
Inside the grounds there are toilet facilities and outside the usual array of food carts, ice cream wagons and water sellers.
Thank you for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
Check out all our other Delhi articles below:
If you’re looking for a great place to stay in south Delhi why not book a stay at JHouse Hostel?
Located just a short tuk tuk ride away, this is an ideal place to base yourself to see Safdarjung’s Tomb as well as all of southern Delhi’s highlights. Read more about our stay here.
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Bir - A Caffeinated Cafe Hopping Guide to the Best Places to Eat and Drink
There's more to the charming mountain town of Bir than its famous paragliding. Up and down Bir town, there are countless unique cafes and restaurants. Read our guide to the tastiest treats, this town in northern India's Himachal Pradesh has to offer!
Situated a couple of hours down the road from Dharamshala, and set in amongst beautiful green mountains, Bir is famous for having some of the best paragliding in the whole of India. If jumping off mountains isn’t for you, or you’re just a bit peckish after your plummet, Bir also boasts a vibrant cafe and restaurant scene.
Here’s our guide to our favourite things to eat when staying in this hidden gem of Himachal Pradesh!
Silver Linings Cafe (Location)
Set just off the main road on the far side of the landing site, this little cafe spills out amongst the trees and roses and feels like you're sitting in a cottage garden.
The cafe has a small menu of cakes, sandwiches, brunch options and soups as well as a couple of large plates of pasta.
Their homemade ice tea is excellent, refreshing, caffeinated and not too sweet.
The spinach and pepper soup is served piping hot and feels like it came straight out of the vegetable patch behind the cafe.
Who could resist a slice of banoffee pie?!
Silver Linings Cafe is also popular for their banoffee pie (thanks to an influencer on Instagram) and we can definitely say that it lives up to the hype!
Just be warned, the Silver Linings Cafe can get extremely busy, so you may have to wait for a table.
Avva’s Cafe The Flavours of Southern India (Location)
As its name suggests, Avva’s specialises in southern Indian delicacies. Specifically dosa, uttapam and idli. Set just off the main road and boasting an elegant dining room overlooking the rice paddies, the restaurant has a modern asethetic with an inviting but minimalist interior. Avva’s Cafe is a distinctly higher class feeling restaurant. Despite this, the prices are thoroughly reasonable and the food delicious.
We’ve both eaten lots of dosas whilst in India and can safely report that the dosas we ate at Avva’s were excellent. The menu had all the normal offerings; masala, paneer, ghee etc but we opted for the garlic, chilli vegetable and the black pepper cheese. Both were fantastic. We especially liked that they served the potato masala on the side rather than inside the dosa as this meant the batter remained extra crispy!
Lunch for two with an iced tea cost 540 rupees (£5.18 or $6.53).
The Dark Roast Coffee Co (Location)
Set on the far side (towards Dharamshala) of the paragliding landing field, this small coffee shop quickly became our go to. Serving fantastic hot and cold coffees, Dark Roast also has a great rooftop to chill out in and maybe get some work done. As a bonus Dark Roast had really good internet, something of a rare treasure when budget backpacking!
Even John couldn’t resist the Oreo chocolate doughnuts!
The coffee really is great at Dark Roast and was our favourite in Bir. Not too sweet and not too bitter the ‘classic cold coffee’ was a perfect pick me up in the afternoon. Those who are looking for a sugar fix, check out the Oreo stuffed doughnuts!
Coffees range from 120 rupees for an americano to 160 rupees for the specialty classic cold coffee.
Alongside the sweet treats of doughnuts and cakes, there is also a full food menu offering sandwiches, pizza, pasta and snacks.
The best seats in the house are upstairs on the stools overlooking the stepped rice paddies behind the landing site. If you’re lucky you’ll even get paragliders circling above.
Charlie’s Cafe (Location)
Charlie’s Cafe commands what may be the best location in Bir. This squat, square, concrete building sits slap bang in the middle of the paragliding landing field. There are no neighbours and from the roof terrace you have uninterrupted views both up the mountain and rice fields as well as down the landing field and out across the valley below.
We’d recommend heading here late afternoon and staking your claim to a prime seat so that you can enjoy a phenomenal sunset and paragliding display from the roof! As the sun goes down, the last mass waves of paragliders will descend on to the landing field, with one swooping in and landing every twenty to thirty seconds is quite a sight!
The cafe serves all the usual, hot and cold drinks as well as a food menu and light bites. We can recommend the lemonade ice tea that was refreshing and sweet.
The black tea divided us, with John enjoying it and Ellie hating the liquorice taste.
The lemonade tea was only 80 rupees each and the black tea was cheaper still at 60 rupees. Thoroughly reasonable given the prime location.
It would also make a great spot for those waiting for more adventurous friends to return from paragliding.
There are lots of monasteries in Bir and its not uncommon to see monks join in with watching the paragliders land!
Secret Garden (Location)
When you walk through Bir there are signs everywhere boasting the Secret Garden to have the “best butter chicken” in Bir. This is a high claim and one we were eager to test.
Located just behind the beautiful Deer Park Institute, the Secret Garden restaurant is on the ground floor of a pretty hostel. Set within a colourful garden (not particularly secret) the restaurant serves up a variety of Indian classics specialising in all things tandoor based.
We of course opted for the butter chicken alongside a mixed vegetable jalfrezi curry and tandoor roast naan breads. We did not try every butter chicken in Bir, so can’t authoritatively say that Secret Garden’s was the best, but we can definitely report that it was delicious! Tandoor roasted, juicy tender chicken in a smokey rich butter laden sauce, it was perfect alongside the crispy naan. Paired with the sharp, yet light mixed vegetables it was a fantastic dinner.
Our dinner of butter chicken, vegetable jalfrezi, rice and two naan breads came to 750 rupees. A little more pricey, but really reasonable in the grand scheme of things.
Quite possibly the “best” butter chicken in the whole of Bir!
Snowy's Cafe (Location)
Set on top of a gym, Snowy’s Cafe has two important things going for it. One, a large and extremely friendly dog and two, Snowy himself, a white rabbit sitting proudly in its hutch at one end of the rooftop cafe. We enjoyed some very sweet iced teas here. The rooftop terrace is a great sun trap in the late afternoon and a very chilled out place to sit and play cards.
Drinks were around 120 rupees and the staff there were extremely friendly, even giving us a small shot glass of rose flavoured drink as a welcome when we sat down.
Birdhouse (Location)
The Birdhouse Cafe is a great brunch, lunch or dinner choice. The Birdhouse specialises in baking its own breads and cakes and specialises in sourdough. Serving all manner of brunch items from full cooked breakfasts, egg combinations and sourdough toasties, the cafe also serves lovely coffee and on Saturday evenings make sourdough based fresh pizzas. These pizzas were excellent and were topped with some really delicious imported cheeses and meats.
We actually stayed at The Birdhouse during our time in Bir and the accommodation there was excellent. Cute, comfy en-suite rooms that were nicely decorated and with a small private balcony all for a good price.
Cafe Cloud Door (Location)
Cafe Cloud Door is set a little way away from the main landing strip, towards the road that leads down and out from Bir. It is completely worth the short walk!
Cafe Cloud Door serves, what was to us, our favourite mutton biryani we have eaten in India. Huge portions (one plate is easily enough for two people), crispy, crunchy sweet fried onions, mutton so tender it literally falls off the bone and if you’re lucky, indulgently rich bone marrow. All of this is served alongside a great raita. It was honestly one of our favourite meals we had in India and one we’ve been craving ever since.
One portion of mutton biryani (enough for two people) and two cups of green tea cost 470 rupees. Frankly a steal for the portion and quality!
It doesn’t look like much, but this quite possibly may be the best dish we ate in the whole of our India trip!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Naggar - A Historical Retreat in the Hills of Himachal Pradesh
The picturesque town of Nagar is an under-appreciated gem in Himachal Pradesh. Set within an easy day trip from the popular Manali, Nagar is a beautiful hillside getaway with great views, food and interesting history. Check out our guide to getting the best from this mountain town.
The small hill town of Naggar sits in the picturesque Beas River Valley and is a beautiful green escape from the busy nearby towns of Manali and Kullu. With its historic castle, ancient temples, winding streets and cute cafes, Naggar is a perfect getaway.
Where Is Naggar?
Naggar is located in the mountainous northern Indian province of Himachal Pradesh (location). Located south of the popular tourist destination of Manali and north of Kullu, Naggar is easily accessible by road. Surrounded by tall mountains and river valleys, Naggar is a beautiful little town for those looking for a break from the bigger, busier destinations nearby.
Naggar is full of beautiful shrines and temples. This one can be found within the castle grounds!
How To Get To Naggar?
Naggar is located on the eastern bank of the River Beas and is easily accessible by road. Frequent local bus services go between Manali and Kullu and provide an extremely inexpensive way to get to Naggar.
Local busses are always more fun!
Local buses will run between most of these major towns. Just check before you travel as many of the buses that go between the major towns and Manali will stay on the western bank of the River Beas so you will have to change to cross.
The bus stop for Naggar is on the main road at the base of the town. From here it is a short, sharp walk up an extremely steep hill to the old town. Taxis are available for those who don’t fancy walking.
For those with a car, it's a short drive from the main NH3 highway over the bridge at Patlikuhal. From Manali it is a 45 minute straight drive south. From Kullu its 50 minutes drive north, or from the larger hubs of Bhuntar its an hour and ten minutes. Or from Mandi it’s a two and a half hour drive.
During monsoon season, check before travelling as the roads are prone to landslides and flooding.
If you are travelling from further afield most major towns and cities run bus service to Manali where it is a quick change to a local bus to get you to Naggar (see above). To book these longer journeys in advance, check out 12Go.
When To Visit Naggar?
Naggar is a year round destination. However the best time to visit is widely regarded to be just after the summer monsoon between September and November, when the rains have stopped and the snow has not yet arrived.
The valley is full of apple orchards and is a beautiful site to see in the spring blossom as well, but the weather may be more changeable.
We got very lucky with the weather in Naggar!
We visited in June and were lucky with the weather. We had beautiful blue skies, hot days and the hills were green with fresh vegetation. However, just a few weeks later the monsoon cut the entire valley off after washing away the road!
Where To Stay In Naggar?
The majority of the accommodation is set up and around the old castle, with multiple guesthouses and hotels to choose from for whatever your budget.
We loved the wooden exterior of Chateau de Soham, it felt like we were staying in the Swiss Alps!
We stayed at the beautiful, family run Chateau de Soham. This was very reasonably priced, with a lovely wood panelled room, comfy double bed and en-suite bathroom. The highlight though has to be the wooden balcony that over looks the Beas Valley and to the mountains beyond. The guesthouse also had a cafe that served food on the rooftop.
Naggar looks popular with long term stays as we frequently saw monthly rates advertised as well as a fully fledged co-working space.
There is plenty of accommodation throughout the town from hostels to hotels. Have a look at the map below to see what’s on offer:
Why Visit Naggar? What Is There To Do?
Naggar is an ancient town and was previously the capital of the whole Kullu district. The town is full of old buildings and narrow winding streets. The town rises steeply up from the more modern street alongside the main road and centres around the old castle.
Naggar Castle
The castle is the focal point of the town and the main tourist attraction. Naggar Castle was originally constructed in the 15th century and was home to the regional rulers, before being sold on, taken over by the British and finally reopened as a museum. It is full of beautifully carved woodwork, balconies with incredible views over the valley and an amazing stone temple shrine. There is also a restaurant on site (again with amazing views) and accommodation is available within the castle walls.
Entrance costs: 50 rupees each (£0.47 or $0.60). Tickets can be brought from the ticket booth just outside the entrance to the castle.
Nicholas Roerich Museum, Gardens and Art Gallery
Set in beautiful surroundings in the hills above the town, the Roerich Art Gallery and Gardens were the home of the Russian artist Nicholas Roerich. Now restored into a gallery showcasing his and his son’s (Svetoslav Roerich) artwork, museum and stunning gardens, this extensive site covers Roerich’s home, research institute as well as art galleries and even an open air theatre.
In addition to his art the Nicholas Roerich Museum, houses a collection of traditional artworks and artefacts.
A visit here is worth it just for the cottage garden and views alone.
Set high above the town the Roerich Art Gallery has incredible views over Naggar the Beas river.
Entrance costs: 200 rupees each (£1.90 or $2.41). You buy the entrance tickets from the gates outside Roerich’s house.
Naggar Temples and Shrines
Dotted around the town and the surrounding hills are many beautiful Hindu temples. Carved out of stone or wood, these temples date back to the 12th century and are tranquil, peaceful and frankly stunning places.
Entrance costs: Free
Guided Tours of Naggar Castle and Nicholas Roerich House and Gardens
If you’re staying in Manali, Naggar is an easy day trip. If you want an in-depth history of the castle and the Roerich House and Gardens, then consider booking a tour. Viator offer a one day package including private driver from Manali which you can book here.
Where To Eat And Drink In Naggar?
The main strip surrounding the old castle is where you’ll find most of Naggar’s culinary offerings. We especially recommend the following:
Naggar Delight Cafe (Location)
This little cafe on the corner to the castle offered some of the best banoffee pie we have eaten on our trip (a surprisingly competitive field). Pair this with freshly ground coffee and a seat outside with great views and you’ve got a winning combination.
just look for the charming red and white exterior opposite to the entrance to the castle. A perfect pick-me-up after an little castle wander!
Nightingales Restaurant (Location)
For those looking for a little treat, then Nightingales Italian restaurant is a perfect break from traditional Indian cuisine. Offering wood-fired pizzas, homemade pasta and imported Italian ingredients, this restaurant was a fantastic treat yourself night. The views from its balcony are fantastic and as dusk fell we even saw a flying squirrel land in the trees outside!
The view from the outside dining room of Nightingale was amazing!
Soof (Location)
The Soof restaurant specialises in Mughal cuisine. This rich, decadent style of curry was delicious. With pillowy soft breads and delicious meaty curries. The restaurant is beautifully decorated on an open top floor with floor seating on colourfully embroidered cushions.
A happy Ellie waiting for her curries at the Soof restaurant!
Dhabas (located all over Naggar)
For budget eating there are plenty of dhabas located on the main road in town as well as near the castle. Offering cheap, tasty vegetable thalis, rotis and all the dhaba classics.
Tip: There are no ATMs in the old town of Naggar. The nearest ATMs are located on the strip of shops at the bottom of the hill, next to the main road.
Conclusion
Naggar is a picture perfect little hill town. It makes a lovely day trip from the busier tourist destination of Manali but if you have the time, it is well worth staying a few nights here! As soon as the day trippers leave in the afternoon you have the town to yourself (ok not quite, but you know what we mean). We can completely see the appeal of the long-stay accommodation here, it has enough different food choices to keep things interesting whilst still being close to other, larger towns. Naggar is beautiful and made a wonderful stop for us after Manali. We had never heard of Naggar before we arrived in Manali and we are so glad we rolled the dice and booked our stay!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
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Muharram Procession in the Old Town of Udaipur
Muharram is an incredible festival marking the beginning of the Islamic New Year. Udaipur is an especially amazing place to witness this festival, as the streets are filled with people and enormous decorated towers. Come with us for an evening watching this beautiful spectacle!
Sometimes you just find yourself in the right place at the right time to witness something incredible. We were staying in the Dreamyard Hostel in Udaipur’s Old Town. One day as we were walking around, we noticed barriers going up on the roads, police in freshly pressed and polished uniforms and locals carrying metal frames everywhere.
More clued in travellers may have already known this, but we had wandered into the Islamic celebration of Muharram.
Bear with us as we attempt to explain something we had to look up. Please let us know in the comments if you know more, as we are definitely not experts!
Muharram is effectively the start of the Islamic New Year and is the second holiest month of the Islamic Calendar coming in only after Ramadan.
In Udaipur, the beginning of Muharram is marked with mass processions through the streets, with multi storey towers, beautifully decorated and lit from the inside carried by the crowds of men.
Our hostel recommended finding a rooftop to watch the procession from. So as evening fell, we headed next door to the Charcoal restaurant. With great sunset views over the beautiful lake and more importantly for us, top down views of the nearby streets and alleyways that the procession would make its way down.
We were not prepared for the spectacle of this evening.
Thousands of white clad men filled the streets. Some of them charging before the procession cracking whips and striking metal poles on the ground. This display signalled the arrival of one of the towers. The improbably tall towers, made out of the square metal frames we had seen earlier, stacked on top of each other and crowned by an onion dome, were now decorated in vibrant colours and lit from the inside. These towers were carried down the tiny, tight streets of Old Town Udaipur on the shoulders of huge crowds of men. We watched in awe as tower after tower bobbed, listed to the side and were guided through the alleyways far too small to accommodate such gargantuan structures.
During a lull in the procession, we nipped back across to the rooftop of our hostel to continue watching the spectacle. Crowds continued to flow past, with green, red and purple towers parading around the narrow streets. From windows overlooking the procession, onlookers threw petals, helped steady the leaning towers or just shouted encouragement down as the towers bobbed down the streets.
Over as suddenly as it started, the square in front of our hostel became a dismantling yard, as one of the enormous towers was stripped down to its component frame and carried back off into the night.
This is one of the great joys of travel. Through our own ignorance we had found ourselves clueless amongst an incredible celebration. We hadn’t known this was going to be in Udaipur, we hadn’t planned for it, we just happened to be there at the right time. We were so glad that we were!
Tips:
If you are in Udaipur during Muharram, make sure you find a rooftop that overlooks one of the procession routes. Dreamyard hostel is both a great hostel and has a fantastic roof and cafe that overlooks the route, as does the Charcoal by Carlsson Restaurant we mentioned earlier.
This is a religious festival so respect is mandatory.
We were not recommended to watch this from the street as in the past there have been clashes between factions. Also as you can see from the narrative above there were exactly zero women in the procession, and girls in the hostel were strongly advised not to be at street level.
The exact date of Muharram changes yearly based on the Islamic calendar. We were lucky enough to see it in July.
Check out some more photos from this incredible spectacle!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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