The Red Fort of Old Delhi - Tourist Trap or Essential Visit?
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The Red Fort of Delhi is unmissable, literally you cannot miss it. The fort squats at the end of Old Delhi, a massive barricade with its walls, towers and gardens spreading out all around. It features on the back of the 500 rupee bank note and is the biggest, most popular tourist attraction in Delhi.
The first impressions (after the impressive size) when we approached the Red Fort were not great. The hassle and begging, which had been surprisingly low on our mornings exploration of the old town market of Chandni Chowk, was constant here. Every twenty seconds we would be approached for money in some form or other. It was a part of India we had been warned about but not one we had actually experienced up until now. Then we saw the queue...
The queue snaked away from a distant, hidden, entrance and wound on seemingly unendingly. There must have been thousands of people standing shoulder to chin queuing for the entrance. At this point we were ready to throw in the towel, admit defeat and slink back to our quiet green oasis in Mohammadpur. Eagle eye Ellie however spotted a sign. The sign told us to buy our tickets online and that there was a separate queue for foreigners. Looking down the long line of queuers we couldn't see any foreigners so assumed our queue must be shorter. We bought our tickets online and headed forwards.
The foreigner queue wasn't just shorter, it was non-existent. We felt bad as we walked past the hundreds in line but our guilt was slightly lessened when we saw the difference in entrance costs. If you are an Indian National (and willing to wait in line) the entrance fee to the Red Fort is 35 rupees (£0.33 or $0.42). The foreign entrance fee when buying online is 550 Rupee (£5.23 or $6.83)! This ten times extra charge made us feel a little better at skipping the enormous queue.
Past the armed security and ticket check we found ourselves outside the Lahori Gate. The scale of the gates are impressive from a distance but overwhelming up close! The entrance is gigantic, a red stone courtyard with walls that encircled and nearly blocked out the sky with their sheer scale. This was also where the selfies began.
Pockets of people were whispering and pointing at us, this made us more than a little self conscious and John had to check he had done his fly up. A young man peeled off from a family and tentatively approached us. “Selfie please? One selfie” he asked. “Of course” we replied. And the flood gates were open...
After 15 minutes or so of hundreds of selfies from different people, Ellie being handed babies and groups of young men trying to edit John out of the photos, we made our way through the grand doors of the Lahori Gate and into the fort itself.
The first thing that greets you is a massive arcade set within one of the fort walls where all of the alcoves and cubby-holes of the wall have been turned into shops. These shops sold every kind of souvenir you could imagine as well as scarves, books and other knick-knacks. We were not in the market for knick-knackery so passed through admiring the architecture.
Tourist shops can still be pretty!
The fort grounds are, not to repeat the words too much, enormous. The inside of the fort would be called a park in any other setting rather than a courtyard. Buildings either ruined or preserved sit in the green expanse, like boats moored at port. The ruins are a relic of English vandalism during the Indian rebellion where large parts of the fort were looted and destroyed.
The Red Fort of Delhi, or Lal Qila was constructed by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, he of the Taj Mahal fame. In Agra (Shah Jahan's old capital city) the streets were becoming too narrow and crowded for the parades, ceremonies and processions the mighty Emperor demanded. Shah Jahan therefore decided to move his capital from Agra to Delhi and needed a new imperial home. In 1639 he commanded a new palatial fort to be constructed in Delhi.
Shah Jahan didn’t do anything by half!
Over its long history the fort has been plundered, blown up, used as a garrison by the occupying British and served as the historic base for the Indian Army. In all this time its giant retaining walls have stood unbroken. On every anniversary of Indian Independence the Prime Minister raises the tricolour flag over the Red Fort.
Back in the fort we spent a couple of hours wandering through the grounds, getting more selfies taken (Ellie mainly), holding more babies (Ellie mainly) and buying ice creams (Jellie together).
The baby was very suspicious of Ellie!
The preserved buildings inside the fort are incredible, huge marble palaces, music pavilions and mosques. Some you can walk through and some are roped off against visitors, but are still a delight to look through the ornate lattice work. The gardens are full of chipmunks, birds and even a couple of peacocks. The audience hall or Diwan-i-Aam was especially impressive. A huge red and white marble stage, making up a massive open meeting place studded with beautifully carved pillars.
You can spend a long time in the gardens, monuments and buildings of the Red Fort. There is plenty to keep you occupied including several museums on Indian military history and martyrs. There is a restaurant in the restored tea pavilion and endless nooks and crannies to explore. It is a very busy attraction but, because of its size, it is not hard to lose the crowds and get some space and monuments to yourself.
We, despite a rocky start, had a fantastic afternoon at the Red Fort. It is so much more than it looks like from the outside and is perfect for our style of sightseeing. You can just come in and wander through the ruins and preserved buildings at your own pace, find your own quiet corners and just enjoy the splendour.
The inside of the scattered pavilions are incredible!
Visiting Delhi's Red Fort – Essential Information
Where is the Red Fort?
The Red Fort is located in Old Delhi.
The nearest metro station is Lal Qila on the Violet line. From here it is a very short walk to the entrance.
Rickshaws can easily be hailed down for a ride in Delhi. You can either pull one over on the street, or request one on the Uber or Ola apps (we’d recommend using the apps to avoid any unwanted negotiation).
You can easily walk to the Red Fort from most of Old Delhi and especially if you have been exploring the winding streets of Chandni Chowk (or have been on a food tour there).
How to buy and how much are tickets to Delhi's Red Fort?
We paid 550 rupees (£5.23 / $6.83) online for tickets. If you are an Indian National the price is just 35 rupee (£0.33/$0.42). You can book online from the entrance plaza or in advance here.
If you're already at the Red Fort without a ticket there are QR codes allowing you to book tickets from your phone. There is a physical ticket counter, although the queues may be large and are separate from the queues to get into the Red Fort itself.
We were lucky when we visited as, despite the massive local queue, the foreigner queue was non-existent. We have heard it can get very busy even for foreigners, with 1-2 hour queues.
You can buy “Skip the Line” tickets through TripAdvisor which allows you to prebook a slot in the morning and includes: a pick up from your accommodation in Delhi, a driver to take you to the Fort and entry tickets to get in. There is also the option to upgrade the tour to include a guide.
Can I get a guide to the Red Fort?
You definitely can! Be wary of the many people offering this service outside of the Red Fort as they are possibly just chancing it to make some money. You can arrange a tour from your hotel / hostel or book online with TripAdvisor or GetYourGuide.
If you’re short on time we’d recommend checking out a guided tour to combine a few of Delhi’s top attractions into one full day of sightseeing.
Are there toilets in the Red Fort?
Yes, there are several public toilets in the Red Fort. For the nicer ones head to the museums or the tea room / restaurant.
Is there food and drink available to buy at the Red Fort?
Yes there is. There is a formal restaurant as well as a smaller more local style cafe and several snack stands dotted about. The smaller cafe towards the back of the grounds was very reasonable for our two ice creams!
How long do I need to spend at the Red Fort?
The site is massive, you could spend 40 minutes just walking around the edge of it. We spent a good couple of hours wandering around and nosing through the buildings and ruins. If you were to go through the museums or have a tour guide it would definitely keep you occupied for an hour or two more.
Despite its popularity it is easy to escape the crowds at the Red Fort
Is the Red Fort worth visiting?
Of course it is, we wouldn't have written over 1300 words if we hadn't enjoyed ourselves! It is a fascinating jumble of history, architecture and ruin. The white and red marble of its half-preserved buildings is stunning and you can really feel the grandeur and splendour of the Mughal age as you explore the grounds.
Thanks for reading
John and Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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If you’re heading to Delhi, why not check out some of our other guides to the city!
If you’re looking for something different to do in Delhi, check out the National Railway Museum. This open air train yard is stuffed full of engines, exhibits, turntables and carriages and is a great day out or adults and children alike! Read our guide for all the information you need for visiting this train filled wonderland.