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The Rain City of Bogor - Our Guide To What To Do And Where To Stay South Of Jakarta

Just south of Jakarta, only an hour and a half away is the “Rain City” of Bogor. Often overlooked by travellers, read why your should take a trip there. From its famous Botanical Gardens to the towering volcanoes surrounding it. Bogor was an unexpected delight and should be added to in Java itinierary!

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

Bogor, we'll forgive you if you haven't heard of this Indonesian city, but bear with us. It’s definitely worth your time.

Located just south from the 'Big Durian' of Jakarta, Bogor is known more commonly as the “Rain City".

Black and white street art decorates a wall spelling the word Bogor.

Don't let this put you off though, it just means the air is clearer and everything feels all that much fresher. Surrounded by the volcanoes of Mount Salak and Mount Pangrango, Bogor is just an hour and half away from central Jakarta.

This city in West Java is a fantastic escape and has plenty to keep backpackers and travellers happily occupied. 

Where Is Bogor?

Lying just south of Jakarta. Bogor is located in West Java. It is connected to the Capital by road, rail and other good transport links. 

The city of Bandung to the east is only a three hour drive away. The west coast surf spot of Cimaja beach is two and a half hours drive. 

How To Get To Bogor?


Having been assimilated by the giant sprawl of Jakarta, Bogor lies to the south of the city. The nearest airport to Bogor is the Soekarno-Hatta International Airport in Jakarta which is an hour and half drive away.

A decorative fighter plane hangs over the river in Bogor, West Java.

We wouldn’t recommend attempting to travel by this plane!

Getting To Bogor By Car

It should take you around an hour and twenty minutes from central Jakarta depending on Jakarta’s famous traffic jams. 

Getting To Bogor By Train

Take the red commuter line from Jakarta Kota railway station all the way down. Bogor is the last station on the line. Trains run frequently and the journey will take you around an hour and a half. 

Buying train tickets to Bogor

Buying train tickets in Indonesia is easy. For the Jakarta to Bogor journey (and vice versa) you will need to buy a KCI Commuter Card. If you're from London these are similar to Oyster Cards but can only be used on the Commuter Line. You can purchase this at any station the commuter line serves. They cost 10,000 IDR to buy and come with 30,000 IDR credit so a total cost of 40,000 IDR (£2.12 or $2.60) to purchase. The commuter line trains are very reasonable - the journey to central Jakarta to Bogor costs 3k per journey. Just tap at the gates upon entry and exit of the journey. 

Getting To Bogor By Bus

You can take the MO6 bus that leaves every twenty minutes from Kampung Rambutan in South Jakarta. 

If you're arriving in Bogor from any where in Java including other Javanese cities (e.g. Bandung or Jakarta) you can book tickets online and in advance via 12GO.

Getting To Bogor By Taxi

Another, slightly more luxurious option, is booking a private taxi all the way to Bogor. You can book your ride via  Bluebird / Grab / Gojek and this should set you back between 250k and 350k IDR (£13.25 / $16.25 to £18.55 / $22.75).

If you're travelling by road, Jakarta is rightly notorious for its traffic, so bear in mind your journey may be considerably longer than planned! Also be aware of the “odd/even” licence plate restrictions in Jakarta city (read more here), that can also complicate your journey.

How To Get Around Bogor?

Despite being a “suburb” of the Big Durian, Bogor is a large city. Depending on where you stay, you may be slightly outside of walking distance from where you want to be. 

To get around you can use Grab, Bluebird or GoJek, or do as the locals do and flag down an Angkot.

A green and blue angkot minibus waits at the side of the street in Bogor, West Java.

Angkot’s are cute! Don’t let their size fool you though, you can pack a lot of people in them!

These little green mini vans are the local bus equivalent, each running specific routes or zones denoted by a number on their front. When you know what route you want, flag down the correctly numbered angkot and hop in.

The price is roughly 5000 IDR per half hour, although if you have large bags, expect to pay a little bit more. Just pay the driver when you get to your destination.

Where To Stay In Bogor?

There is lots of accommodation to choose from in town, ranging from high class multi-national chains through to guesthouses and backpacker hostels. 

We can highly recommend staying at the Rion Bogor Hostel.

The Rion Hostel Bogors white front sits on a quiet street in Bogor, West Java

The hostel was centrally located and was within walking distance of the Botanical Gardens as well as Chinatown, malls and lots of food. 

The hostel offered both private and dorm rooms. We stayed in one of the private rooms which was clean and comfy and the en-suite shower was piping hot. The hostel also has a rooftop cafe serving food and drinks and even a swimming pool! If you’re staying at Rion Bogor Hostel and arriving by train, you’ll need to flag down a number 3 angkot and ask to be dropped off at Jalan Sambu.

To book your stay at Rion Bogor Hostel click here.

For all other accommodation choices available to book in Bogor, check out the map below:

What Is There To Do In Bogor?

Bogor Botanical Gardens (Location)

The most popular of Bogor’s attractions lies right in the heart of the city. Bogor’s Botanical Gardens are the oldest botanical gardens in South East Asia. The Dutch officially established a garden and palace on the grounds in 1744, however there has been a much longer history of intentional gardening on this site. 

As early as the 1470s, a man made forest stood on this site deliberately stocked with rare tree seeds. After the fall of the Sundanese Kingdom, the forest was reverted to nature until the Dutch East Indies Company established their presence. After the British invasion of Java in 1811, Stamford Raffles (of the Singapore Sling fame) took over residency in the palace. Under Raffles, the gardens took on a new persona, that of an English landscaped garden. 

A fountain sprays amidst formal gardens and hedges in the Botanical Gardens of Bogor.

The Botanical Gardens as it is now, came into being following the Anglo-Dutch treaty where a Dutch biologist teamed up with two Englishmen from Kew Gardens to found Bogor’s Botanical Gardens in 1817.

The Botanical Gardens of Bogor thrive due to the unique microclimate of the area. The “Rain City” means that the gardens are constantly green and lush. The garden now serves as a research hub for agriculture and horticulture as well as a beautiful place to explore.

A red flower is set against green leaves in the Botanical Gardens of Bogor
Wide leafed green plants glisten with water droplets in Bogor Botanical Gardens.
Bright red buds flower off of a ground plant in Bogor's Botanical Gardens

Visiting the Gardens:

The main entrance to the gardens is opposite Lawang Suryakencana, the gate to Bogor’s Chinatown (https://maps.app.goo.gl/kk9U8DAyGQPNmgJ79).

Tickets cost 15,500 IDR each on weekdays (£0.81 or $1.02) or 25,500 IDR each on weekends and public holidays (£1.33 or $1.68).

As the Presidential Palace sits within the garden grounds, you are not allowed to bring in anything that resembles a weapon. This unfortunately includes telescopic lenses for cameras as well as drones for obvious reasons. 

Once you’ve bought your tickets you are free to roam through the gardens. The gardens are a quiet contrast to the busy streets in Bogor’s Chinatown, especially if you visit on a weekday as we did. Tall trees line the paths, colourful butterflies and dragonflies flutter through the flower beds and water flows and spouts up through fountains in the central lake.

If you head to the left hand side as you enter the gardens, you’ll reach the Bamboo Garden, with secluded sections shaded by the thick bamboo forest. In a corner of this forest, the remains of the Dutch cemetery rise up bright white against the dark forest greens. Near to the cemetery are the European rose gardens and the entrance to the Presidential Palace.

Sadly, the glasshouses were closed when we came to visit, but they were very impressive structures from the outside. Near to the glasshouses were the orchid gardens. These were amazing but not for the reason you might think. There were very few orchids in bloom, but what there was, was an almost magical dusting of white fluffy blossoms. It coated everything like cottony snow. It was strange to be walking around in 30 plus degree heat, but feeling like we were wading through snow drifts. On the downside, John discovered it was not a day to wear black trousers as he came out of the enclosure looking as though he had befriended several very hairy cats. 

White blossom covers the path in the Orchid gardens of Bogor's Botanical Gardens.

It’s like it is Christmas, except its August and 34 degrees centigrade!

As you round the perimeter heading back to the entrance, you find yourself in Mexico as you stumble upon the Mexican Gardens. Full to the brim with Central and Southern American cactuses and flowers. In amongst this, you even see a colourful casa, alongside secluded nooks and green spaces that look perfect for a picnic. 

The gardens are well worth a visit and you can expect to spend a full morning wandering around. We’d recommend visiting in the morning before it gets too hot and before the rains set in. 

There is a restaurant on site as well as a few cafes. The restaurant was buffet style and very expensive but did have a great view down to the lakes. The coffee was pricier than outside the gardens but a lovely energy boost nonetheless.

For cheaper eats, there are some stalls set up just outside the glasshouses and orchid gardens selling instant noodles and other snacks. We would recommend either bringing a picnic or dining outside the park as Bogor has so many great eateries within walking distance. 

Bogor Presidential Palace (Location)

The Presidential Palace of Bogor sits in the heart of the Botanical Gardens. Although it’s not possible to visit in person, you can still admire the building through the gates. With elegant lawns leading towards the large white palace and towering flag poles. On top of the palace sits a small golden dome. 

If you’re lucky enough you may even spot one of the many deer that live in the palace grounds roaming around. We passed the palace grounds multiple times during our stay and looking through the gates at the deer, it felt as though we were looking at London’s Bushy Park!

Kujang Monument (Location)

The Kujang Monument is a towering icon of the city, set into the centre of a roundabout. This monument was constructed in 1982 and was built to look like a traditional weapon used in West Java. 

When we visited a week after Indonesia’s Independence Day, the tower and its surrounding colonnade had been decked out in Indonesian flags and colours to celebrate.

Museum of Zoology (Location)

The Museum of Zoology is located to the left of the main entrance to the Botanical Gardens. The museum houses fossils, skeletons, insects and even a blue whale! 

We didn’t have time to visit the museum on this trip as we were too hungry after spending the morning at the gardens, but it’s on the list for next time.

The museum is open everyday from 8am to 3pm, but do check opening times on public and national holidays. 

Pasar Baru, Chinatown Bogor (Location)

Those who know us, know we just love wandering around and getting lost in a city. The winding alleyways of Bogor were perfect for this and it was a day walking aimlessly where we spotted the bustling and colourful market stalls surrounding Pasar Baru Bogor.

A crowded market street overflows with produce with onions, chillis, ginger and tomatoes spilling out of bags and baskets. The market is in the Chinatown area of Bogor in West Java, Indonesia.

Selling everything from exotic fruits to live birds, this market seemed to be where everyone in town was gathering. Colourful vegetables jostled with homewares and spilled out across the street. Street carts laden with plastic bags, inexplicably filled with live goldfish, trundled up and down the lanes, whilst a group of young men danced with a Chinese dragon.

A wooden cart is full of clear plastic bags. In each bag floats a live goldfish spotted in the market streets of Chinatown Bogor in West Java, Indonesia.

It was chaotic, vibrant and everything you could want from a local market.

Ellie cups a snake fruit in her hand. Its scaly skin is a reddish brown.

Definitely try the snake fruit while you’re there, it’s easy to spot just look for the fruit that… looks like it’s covered in snake skin!

To eat, you just peel the snake like skin off the fruit and eat the soft, snappy, slightly tart fruit within.

Snake fruit tastes like the lovechild of a plum and apple. It is also pretty cheap when bought from a market!


Just Walk Around The City

Bogor is a great town to just walk around. If you’re staying at the Rion Hostel, then take a walk down by the river onto the village like islands in the middle. These colourful little enclaves are full of shops, small eateries and friendly locals. These little islands are a colourful warren full to the brim with colourful decorations and street art. You’ll never know what you’re going to find, from a tiny mosque overlooking the river to a family of chicks hiding from the sun underneath a street cart. When we visited Bogor it was just after Indonesian Independence Day and it was especially colourful.

Further Afield - Day Trips Outside of Bogor - Mount Salak and Mount Pangrango 

Bogor is surrounded by the towering volcanoes of Mount Salak and Mount Pangrango. Both volcano peaks are an oasis for hikers, nature lovers and those looking for fresh air from the cities below. We did an excellent hike to the crater of Mount Salak which led us through the jungle up to the bubbling sulphur. You can read more about this day here. There are also lots of campsites leading up the mountainside so you easily get your glamp on!

What To Eat In Bogor? 

There is no shortage of street food stalls, warungs, cafes and restaurants in Bogor. Everywhere you look there seems to be some form of establishment catered towards serving food. Whatever you fancy, this city will cater for you.

We especially enjoyed the street food and restaurants found along Jalan Suryakencana in Bogor’s Chinatown.

A bowl of traditional Soto Ayam or chicken soup sits next to a green plate of rice and fried onions. The soto is from Sunda Barokah in Bogor's China Town

We had an exceptional bowl of Soto Ayam from Sunda Barokah (Location). A light, coconutty chicken broth, with a leg of chicken, fried shallots and garlic, tomatoes and greens were accompanied by a steaming pile of rice.

It was light, yet full of flavour and only cost 20,000 IDR per bowl (£1.04 or $1.32).

As night falls in Bogor, small makeshift shift restaurants and street carts pop up almost on every street corner.

A green plate is pilled high with Nasi Goreng or fried rice. Topped with cucumber and Keropok ( crackers) the dish was bought from a street side tent in Bogor.

We loved eating at the stalls on Jalan Ciheuleut (Location) where we had some excellent plates of Nasi Goreng and Mie Goreng (fried rice and fried noodles). Both plates were hearty and delicious and were even better when you crushed the Keropok (crackers) on top. Just be careful if you order it spicy as it definitely is just that!

Each plate cost only 15,000 IDR each (£0.78 or $0.99).

For those after a sweet treat, you can’t go wrong with the Michelle Bakery (Location) which basically sold bread in any form from banana to chocolate, cinnamon to pandang and even bread with smoked beef or pepper chicken. The baked goods make a great portable breakfast if you have an early start the next morning.

How Long Should You Stay In Bogor?

Bogor is a refreshing break from the busy and crowded cities of Jakarta and Bandung. We’d recommend at least two full days here; with one day dedicated to exploring the city and its attractions and at least one more, to get out to one of the surrounding National Parks and volcanoes. 

If your itinerary doesn’t allow you to stay in Bogor, you can do quite a lot as day trips from Jakarta. As we’ve mentioned, the city is only an hour and half away so you can stay in Jakarta and visit on a day trip. Check out below for some ideas for guided experiences from Jakarta to Bogor which will include transport to and from your accommodation in Jakarta.

Where To Go After Bogor?

If you’re travelling from east to west through Java, then your next stop is probably the capital of Jakarta.

If you’re travelling west to east, Bogor has great links to the city of Bandung, or if you’re looking for some more national parks, Cipanas is close by as well as the surfing beach of Cimaja.

Conclusion

Often overlooked as just being a suburb of Jakarta, Bogor is a fantastic getaway. There is enough to keep you occupied, and the whole place is charming and fun. Start your Indonesian trip a little differently and make sure not to miss out on this beautiful little city.

Adventures of Jellie pose for a GoPro selfie in the orchid forest of Bogor's Botanical Gardens.

Thanks for reading, 

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie


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Jakarta - A Backpacker’s Guide to the Big Durian

Jakarta is often just a flight connection for those heading to or from the island of Bali. Nicknamed the “Big Durian” travellers appear to either love or hate the Indonesian Capital. We love Jakarta and so should you. Read our guide for how to have an amazing time in the Indonesian Capital. From where to stay and what to eat to the best attractions, we cover it all!

Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.

The Indonesian capital of Jakarta is a massive sprawling metropolis and has earned the nickname, the “Big Durian”. A slightly cruel reading of this nickname is that it’s big, ugly and smelly. A more accurate one however, is that for every one person who dislikes Jakarta, another absolutely adores it. Surprise, surprise we were in the latter camp, we loved it! The food we ate was incredible, the people funny, warm and welcoming and there was so much to do that our week in the city just flew by. 

Jakarta is frequently just a stopping off point for those travelling to or from the paradise island of Bali. Often seen as a chore that has to be gotten out of the way, we had been warned not to expect much from the Indonesian capital, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. Read on to find out how to get the most out of this amazing city! 

A fountain stands at a roundabout surrounded by high rise offices and malls in Central Jakarta, Indonesia.

Jakarta’s buildings are a mixture of ultra modern high rise to wooden beamed shophouses.

Getting To And From Jakarta: Where Is The Indonesian capital?

Jakarta is the current capital of Indonesia, and lies on the northern coast of the island of Java. We say current, as there are plans to relocate the capital of Indonesia to Nusantara in 2024. Java is so large it is divided into three regions, West, Central and Wast. Jakarta is on the far end of Western Java.

As the capital, it's a major air and transport hub for travel throughout Indonesia, South East Asia and Australasia. 

Jakarta by Air

The most likely way you’ll be arriving in Jakarta is by air, via the international airport of Soekarno-Hatta. This major airport has flights departing worldwide, as well local carriers taking you across the archipelago. The airport is to the north west of central Jakarta and is a 45 minute (traffic dependant) inexpensive taxi ride away, or an hour and half by connecting trains.


Jakarta by Train

The island of Java is well connected with trains running from West to East and joining all the major cities, including to the port town of Ketapang where ferries leave for Bali. We can highly recommend train travel in Indonesia. Trains are very clean, comfy and cheap and the routes they travel across are stunning.


Jakarta by Bus

Jakarta has bus links to everywhere on Java. There are large official bus terminals as well as many other smaller operators. Check around and use Google, there will almost certainly be a bus from Jakarta going to wherever you need to go.

To book your travel in advance, we can recommend using 12Go. You can use this to book trains, buses, ferries and even internal flights.  

Where To Stay In Jakarta?

Jakarta is a huge city, and as such location is key when choosing your accommodation. Despite its size, there aren’t that many hostels on offer, so if you’re looking for common rooms and fellow backpackers, the choices are limited. There are, however, plenty of guesthouses and hotels for all budgets.

We wanted a hostel so we chose to stay at the Packers Lodge on the fringes of Chinatown.

The white front of the Packers Lodge sits on a small street near Chinatown in Jakarta, Indonesia.

The hostel was perfect. Cheap and comfy, with rooftop and street level common areas, kitchen facilities and even a small gym! What stood out for us most was the location. Just off of the main road, the Packers Lodge was in a small enclave of pretty alleyways, narrow passages and streets. We had been told Jakarta was not a pretty city, but the flower filled avenues around Chinatown were gorgeous. We opted for a private room with en-suite, but dorms are also available.

Book your stay here .

For all accommodation choices in Jakarta, from high end to basic backpacker, check out the map below:

Getting Around Jakarta

Jakarta is a huge city, and although there are plenty of pavements, it's not always the most pleasant place to walk around. Jakarta is also a truly massive city, sprawling out from the coast in every direction. You’re going to need some transport.

Local Buses

There is a good network of local buses connecting the major hubs through Jakarta. As an added bonus the buses frequently have their own lane so don’t suffer as badly form the Jakartan traffic issues. You need to buy a card before you board, and this will come preloaded with enough credit to make at least one journey. These cards can be purchased at the larger bus stops.

Ride Hailing / Taxi Apps

Grab, Gojek and Bluebird Taxis all operate within the capital. Grab and Gojek are cheap and easily available. Bluebird is an Indonesian taxi firm with its own app, but from our experience a higher quality of driver (less likely to get lost and more likely to spot you waving desperately from the side of the road). Bluebird gives you an estimated cost for the journey, whereas Grab and Gojek confirm the price before you set off. You can choose to pay in cash or linked debit card. 

One thing to note when driving around Jakarta is the Odd/Even Licence Plate Restrictions. Traffic in Jakarta is notorious. Long traffic jams are extremely common and to combat this, the government has imposed the Odd/Even License Plate restrictions. During the morning and evening rush hours a car's licence plate dictates which roads it can use. Alternating days will bar either plates beginning in odd numbers or plates beginning in even numbers from using many of the main roads in Jakarta. This restriction will mean that your Grab/Gojek/BlueBird driver will have to take lengthy detours if they have the wrong licence plate for the day. This can be shocking as a passenger, as you will stray a long way off of the route your app is telling you that the driver should take and it can add a lot of journey time to a cross-town ride. You can set GoogleMaps to see the routes available for odd/even licence plates and that should reassure you that you’re going the right way. The Odd/Even restriction is also why you may have a few drivers cancel your booking as soon as they are assigned it!

What To Do In Jakarta?

Jakarta, despite what anyone may say, has loads to offer travellers. We spent a week in the city and definitely didn’t get to see all it has to offer. Below are some of the highlights from our time.

National Museum of Indonesia  

Entry cost: 25,000 IDR per ticket (£1.31 or $1.63)

The National Museum is a great place to learn about the fascinating, varied histories of Indonesia. With exhibitions on the ethnic diversity, the landscape of Indonesia and its ancient and modern histories. 

The white columned front of the Indonesian National Museum sits in neo-classical style in central Jakarta.

The artefacts on display were incredible, from huge wooden boats, to intricate and ornately decorated tribal masks. The museum was interesting, and well worth a visit. There is a cafe and toilet facilities on site.

National Monument and Merdeka Square

Crowned with a golden flame, this white column spears up into the skyline of central Jakarta. The National Monument sits right in the middle of Merdeka Square a large square park, full of trees, dancing fountains, green lawns and gardens. 

The National Monument of Indonesia spears into the sky. A huge white square pillar is topped by a golden flame. Around the inverted pyramid base flutter the red and white flags of Indonesia.

There is a viewpoint at the top of the National Monument, however there are limited tickets per day, and as we were visiting around Indonesian Independence Day we were far too late to pick up tickets!

Merdeka Square, the park surrounding the monument is a great place to escape the chaos of downtown Jakarta. There is a large food court near the monument and loads of places to chill out.

It is very popular on the weekends, and when we visited there was even a toddler balance bike competition!

A row of small children wait at a professional starting line for the begining whistle of a balance bike race in Merdeka Square, Central Jakarta

If you are travelling with little ones, there is a seemingly permanent fun fair in the park, along with many toy stalls.

If you have subjected your small human to the museum and art gallery, Merdeka Square may have an appropriate reward for their patience!

National Gallery of Indonesia 

Entry cost: Free but reserve online to skip the queues.

As the name suggests, this is the national gallery of Indonesia. Housing incredible artwork from Indonesian artists as well as exhibits from overseas. You can easily combine a visit here with a visit to the National Museum and National Monument.

Chinatown - Glodok

Entry cost: Free

Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown area is full of colour and life. In the early morning the streets are packed with vendors selling everything from vegetables to live frogs. Market stalls spill over the streets and clog up the narrow lanes with stallholders, pedestrians and scooters all jostling for space. The winding alleyways hide ornate temples and old shop houses. Chinatown is a great place just to get lost and enjoy the atmosphere. 

A busy market street is full of vendors and a man with a mobile bakery in Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown.
Ellie walks through the doorway of Toa Se Bio Chinese temple in the heart of Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown.
The view from a noodle shop out onto a busy market street in the heart of Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown.

It is also an amazing place for food whatever time of day, but we will come to that later.

Kota Tua and Taman Fatahillah

A large pedestrianised boulevard leads from Kota Tua train station to the Dutch Old Town surrounding the Taman Fatahillah Square. This is Jakata’s “Trafalgar Square” lined on all sides with museums - The Puppet Museum, Jakarta History Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics. 

The square itself is full of street performers, selfie spots and children's entertainers. The famous colonial era institution of Cafe Batavia sits on the square’s north west corner, so if you want to treat yourself to a posh coffee or cocktail you're covered.

At night the area turns into a sprawling night market serving everything from satay and other Indonesian fare to international foods. Just be aware that as the main tourist night market it can get extremely busy!

Museum Bahari Jakarta - National Maritime Museum

Entry costs - 5000 IDR (£0.26 or $0.33)

To the north of Kota Tua on the edges of the port of Jakarta is the National Maritime Museum. Housed in the old spice warehouses of the Dutch East India Company this museum is definitely worth the walk.

Roofed with orange tiles and clad in white walls, the old warehouses of the Dutch East India Company are now used as the Maritime Museum in Jakarta, Indonesia

The museum has the original watch tower next to the ticket desk which gives a great view of the old buildings sitting next to the new container port of Jakarta.

The museum has exhibits on the seafaring history of the native tribes of Indonesia, the influence of Dutch colonialism as well as the importance of the country to world trade and history. The Maritime museum is full of boats, models, paintings and interesting artefacts.

There is also an exhibition on the fire that gutted the museum in 2018 and the amazing restoration work that restored it.

Shopping in Jakarta

As the Indonesian capital Jakarta is well stocked in malls, shops and department stores making it an ideal place for a restock or refresh of your backpacking wardrobe. 

All the main international brands are present from high end couture to sportswear. We had a successful supply run at the Grand Indonesia Mall including a surprisingly cheap and tasty lunch in the food court!

The malls seem to be social hubs for Jakartan’s. Full of busy cafes, food courts, cinemas, performance spaces and gyms. We even encountered a Chinese Dragon dancing competition whilst browsing for shoes!

Guided Experiences

If you’re looking for guided experiences in or around Jakarta, including tours to the nearby volcanoes, check out Get Your Guide. For those short on time, they are a great way of cramming as much Jakarta into your itinerary as possible! 

What To Eat in Jakarta

Eating in Jakarta is an absolute pleasure. Indonesian food is fantastic, a mixing bowl of all the greatest hits of southeast Asia whilst being totally unique. Jakarta emblemises this fantastic array of foods perfectly, from street carts to fine dining and everything in between, Jakarta has something for everyone. 

Chinatown

We were based in the Packers Lodge hostel just off of Chinatown so had the opportunity to sample its delights at every time of day. Check out the below for our top eats in Chinatown.

For breakfast we treated ourselves to steamed sticky rice with chicken at Bakmi Sasak (Location)  a small shop in the midst of the morning market. Sweet, rich and hearty, the steamed sticky rice clung to every morsel of sauce and made for a very satisfying breakfast. 

Nearby (and later on!) on the same street as Bakmi Sasak, we ate at another restaurant (Location) serving one of our favourite Asian dishes, Kuey Teow.

The tell-tale blazing hot wok and fistfuls of frying noodles drew us in and we were not disappointed. Generous portions of smokey noodles, piled high with shrimp, chicken and Chinese sausage. It was delicious!

A bowl of soup sits alongside pickles and a plate of sticky chicken rice at Bakmi Sasak in Glodok, Jakarta

You cannot beat chicken for breakfast

A white plate is topped with wok fried Kuey Teow noodles full of prawns, egg and sausages. Served in a street side restaurant in Glodok, Jakarta.

Except maybe Kuey Teow for lunch!

If you’re in Chinatown, do not miss the famous street of Jalan Pintu Besar Selatan III (Location). This tiny alleyway is lined on both sides with street food vendors and stalls. Jalan Pintu also houses the famous Kopi Es Tak Kie, an old school Chinese coffee shop where you can buy food from the street vendors outside and bring it in to eat with your coffee. We ate an amazing plate of mixed pork and rice. The pork came in every imaginable variety from crispy belly, to sweet sausage, drizzled with a sweet soy sauce and accompanied by a hard boiled egg. 

A covered alleyway is full of food vendors, stalls, signs and fluorescent lights in Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown.

Other Jakarta Eats

Warteg Gang Mangga (Location)

It was obvious from the queues of delivery scooters and the constant crowds inside this small restaurant that it was going to be good. Open all hours, this popular hole in the wall joint serves rice and curry, with a massive variety of the latter. The choice of curries was amazing, we opted for a creamy coconut and jackfruit alongside our fried chicken, spicy sambal and fried egg. Their fried chicken was coated in coconut flakes, and was to die for and the curries were knockouts! Rice and curry is always a win for us. Ever since Sri Lanka we have loved the variety of the curries, it is one of our favourite things to eat. We were overjoyed that, in Indonesia, rice and curry is common and may even be the best selection yet! 

Bakmi Aheng (Location)

Don’t try looking for this restaurant during the day as all you’ll find is an empty parking space.

A white bowl is filled with noodles, minced pork and garlic and green vegetables in a street side stall in Glodok, Jakarta.

Come nightfall, however, a tent springs up and boiling pots of noodles begin bubbling away. This was our first meal in Indonesia and it really set the tone for the deliciousness we could expect. Thin egg noodles, tossed in a minced pork, garlic and spring onion oil served with a delicate soup.

It was addictive, yummy and incredibly cheap! All the things a backpacker could want.


The Gade Coffee & Gold (Location)

This is cheating as this is a chain, but on a hot sticky day in Jakarta, their iced lattes really hit the spot! Not the cheapest coffee we found, but if you’re after a ‘treat yourself’ pick me up in an air conditioned environment, you can’t go wrong.

Gaja Madah Food Street (Location)

This upscale food court was a favourite for us and our fellow hostel travellers.

Wooden tables are surrounded by softly lit food vendors at Gaja Madah food court, Jakarta

To get the bad out the way first, it was definitely not the cheapest place to eat. The street food here is 50% more expensive than the street food available outside. That out the way, this was one of our favourite places to spend an evening in Jakarta. Live music, big screens, a bar and a plethora of food to choose from. You could happily snack your way through several hours of an evening. We especially liked the fried belly pork and spicy barbecued chicken wings. Also the sushi wasn’t bad either! 


Night Market on the Streets Outside Grand Indonesia Mall

Come nightfall, the shoppers disperse and the streets are taken over with food stalls, carts and makeshift seating. You can eat pretty much whatever you want here from freshly grilled satay, fried fish and lumpia (Indonesian spring rolls) through to Korean corn dogs and American style cheeseburgers! 

Q Food and Music (Location)

This food court is located way out the main “tourist areas” and feels like it. With prices half that of Gaja Madah, this food court gave us a fantastic evening out with the locals.

Barbecued marinated chicken satay sits alongside chilli sauce, crushed peanuts and roasted rice. Served with a wedge of lime at Q Food  court Jakarta.

Spicy satay taichan (plain barbecued chicken dipped in an amazing spicy sauce) alongside regular satay was a highlight as was the mie goreng (fried noodles). There was a bar, a live DJ  and a screen showing football.

Q Food is a great recommendation if you want a more Jakartan food court experience. We loved Gaja Madah, but you could have been in any city. Q Food was 100% Jakartan, even with the chanting for Manchester United….

Conclusion

For some reason, Jakarta seems to have a bad reputation amongst travellers. Frequently we’ve been advised to literally land and leave, but we are so glad we gave it a chance. This city is full of great food, things to do and places to explore. It's a huge city, and not without its problems, but it's well worth giving Jakarta your time! 

Thanks for reading,

John & Ellie x

#adventuresofjellie


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