Kawah Ratu - A Volcanic Day Out From Bogor Or Jakarta
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As you look up through the haze of Bogor you can distinctly see the outline of towering volcanoes. These volcanic peaks surround the city and make for a great green escape from suburban Bogor and the massive urban sprawl of Jakarta.
We were staying at the Rion Bogor Hostel and after a couple of days exploring all that Bogor had to offer we were eager to get out into nature. Advertised on the front desk was a “volcano and jungle hike”. This seemed like exactly what we were looking for, a chance to stretch our legs, escape from the traffic and see our first Indonesian volcano up close. We booked immediately.
Organised through WhatsApp by the extremely helpful Ridwan (contact us if you’d like an introduction), a full itinerary was prepared. The following morning, we were picked up from outside our hostel in Bogor (they offer the same tour if you’re staying in Jakarta) by our driver Jacky, and were driven out of town and up into the green slopes of Mount Salak.
The drive out of town was beautiful. As soon as we escaped the busy Bogor streets, we were in another world. Small villages, stepped rice paddies, farms and friendly waving children were everywhere. With the open skies and overwhelming greenery, it was a world away from the metropolitan Indonesia we had experienced so far.
Arriving at the trailhead, we were introduced to our guide Mr Dudi and set off up a stone path into the jungle. Just past the trailhead there is a little construction going on, but this is quickly left behind as the jungle envelopes you. Mr Dudi stopped to show us plants that the local villagers used to repel mosquitos, as well as plants that could be used as food and even disinfectants. A short way into the walk, we came off the main trail and took a route through the thick bushes and into the heart of the jungle.
Butterflies wheeled all around, and we were surrounded by enormous ferns, colourful flowers and trailing vines, all under a towering canopy. The only sounds we could hear were cicadas and birdsong.
It was around this time where our noses began to tickle. There was a distinct smell of egg in the air and this time it wasn’t due to John’s breakfast. As we rounded the corner on our forest trail, we were suddenly confronted with what can only be described as a dead zone. A gash had been taken out of the forest, on either side there were lush green trees, but in the centre a scar of yellow and red earth cut through the greenery. In the middle of the destroyed valley, flowed a sulphuric stream, hot and smelly, and surrounded by the remnants of dead trees. If we ever needed a reminder that we were standing on the edge of a volcano, this was it. We were getting close to the crater.
A very short walk later and we emerged into an utterly alien landscape. We had arrived at the crater of Kawah Ratu. Stretching away in all directions grey, yellow stone smoked with sulphuric gases. Bright blue pools, bubbled and spat steam, whilst the air was thick with the eggy smell of sulphur. There were barely any living plants here, only blackened stumps and the skeletons of trees. It was in this strange landscape that we decided to have a bath!
The bright turquoise pools vary massively in temperature, you need a guide to tell you which ones will not boil you. We stripped off into our swimming gear and, holding our noses, waded in for a paddle. The pools were heavenly. Even with the smell (which you quickly got used to), the warmth permeated every cell of our bodies and you could feel ourselves relaxing and unlocking. We could have spent a full day lounging in these pools, indeed, in the past we have spent a lot of time lounging in the hot baths of Budapest. We don’t know the science and maybe it's just psychosomatic but there seems to be something really beneficial in naturally fed hot springs.
Reluctantly we got out as it was time for lunch. We sat on jagged rocks, in the middle of an active volcanic crater munching on fried chicken and vegetable curry. Behind us the volcano continued to belch and wheeze out its volcanic steam. It was a memorable place for a picnic!
After taking many photos of the alien landscape at Kawah Ratu, it was time to make our way back down the volcano side. Before returning to the car however, we had one more stop. Turning off our original jungle path, we passed through an entrance archway and made our way down to the Curug Geblug waterfall.
Heading down the steep valley, we could hear the waterfall before we could see it. As we rounded a corner and crossed over some mossy boulders, the waterfall came into view. The waterfall cut through the dark rocks and down into a perfect pool, surrounded by high cliffs and jungle foliage.
We’ve all seen the waterfall photos with queues of people wanting to take the same snap next to the “secluded” waterfall, but this was the real thing. There was just us, our tour guide and a local family foraging. We had the whole waterfall to ourselves. Many photos and a quick dip later (the waterfall was a lot colder than the hot springs) it was time to make our way back to the car. We drove back through the late afternoon, happy with our first experience of an Indonesian volcano!
What To Know Before You Go?
How Hard Is The Trek To Kawah Ratu?
The short answer is, not very. There is a constant small incline, and the paths are muddy jungle tracks, with the occasional rickety log bridge. The whole walk would take at most an hour and half, although you can do it much faster.
The way down to and up from the waterfall is the only steep incline but this is all done with steps and really doesn’t last very long.
The jungle trek and Kawah Ratu crater is suitable for pretty much any fitness level, unless you have any mobility issues.
It’s rocky, but there are paths to follow!
How Long Does The Trek Take?
The trek itself including stops at the crater, hot springs, lunch and the waterfall lasted around four and a half hours.
For the day as a whole, we were picked up at our hostel at 7am and began the trek at 9.30am. We were back at our hostel before 5pm.
If you are being picked up or dropped off from Jakarta, expect it to be a longer day. The pick up time will be around 5am.
How Much Does The Tour Cost?
The tours will vary depending on operator and group size. If you’re booking through Ridwan, for one person it will cost 1,450,000 IDR, for two people it’ll cost 850,00 IDR per person, for three to five people the cost drops to 750,000 IDR. If you’ve got lots of friends, or can jump on a larger group (six to ten people), the cost is only 650,000 IDR. This includes a pick up and drop off from your hostel in Bogor or Jakarta, private driver and car, all fees (parking, entrance to Kawah Ratu and the Curug Geblug waterfall, the National Park fees etc), guide and lunch.
If you don’t want to take a tour, you could book a driver through Grab, but bear in mind you will need to pay entrance fees to each of the locations as well as the National Park fee and parking. We would also recommend chatting with your Grab driver and arranging for them to wait for you as there won’t be any passing cabs up the volcano.
What To Take / What Should I Wear?
When we visited there were no shops or stalls open once we entered the National Park, so bring any snacks and drinks you may want on the trek. Our driver was more than happy to stop at an Alfamart / Indomaret on our way.
We’d recommend wearing trainers or walking shoes for the walk through the jungle. It’s very rocky, especially within the crater. You will also have to cross some small streams, so bring a spare pair of socks if your shoes aren’t waterproof. We visited in the dry season and there was still a fair bit of mud around so be aware of this if visiting after rain. The local city of Bogor is known as the Rain City for a reason.
We both wore our swimwear underneath our clothes as you can swim/paddle at both the crater and waterfall.
Make sure to spray yourself with lots of bug spray as you are trekking through a jungle, and as always baste yourself liberally in sunscreen.
In Kawah Ratu you do not need a face mask / gas mask like you do need on some active volcanoes. Despite the strong smell the sulphur quickly disperses and doesn’t sting your eyes. The volcano will be closed if there is too much activity so don’t worry!
Facilities On The Trek
There were toilets at the trailhead, these were just basic squatties so bring tissues and hand sanitiser.
There were a couple of lean to sheds to change at the waterfall if you’re too modest for the old hold up a towel method.
As we mentioned above, when we went there were no shops or stalls so bring any snacks/water you need etc.
Can I Stay At Kawah Ratu?
You cannot stay at the Kawah Ratu crater, but there are lots of guesthouses and campsites dotted around the National Park. Next time we visit, we’d definitely stay at one of these as there were many other waterfalls and treks in the area.
Take a look at the map below for local accommodation options:
Can I Do This Tour From Jakarta?
Absolutely, journeying from Jakarta seems to be the more popular option as travellers do not usually stay down in Bogor. For all Jakarta based expeditions, including the volcanoes check out Get Your Guide:
You can of course do the above tour by contacting Ridwan (message us for more details). He will definitely pick you up from Jakarta or from Bogor. If you haven’t already, check out our article on Bogor on why you should stay in this awesome city.
Conclusion
We can’t recommend taking a day out from Bogor or Jakarta and exploring the volcanoes. In a rare move from us, we would actually recommend a guide as we were taken on jungle paths we certainly wouldn’t have chosen ourselves, guided to the correct temperature pools and gave us an insight into local life. We were lucky to visit mid week and the trails were deserted, with very few other people in the crater and the waterfall to ourselves.
If you’ve landed in Jakarta and or gone exploring in Bogor you may be looking for a little natural escape, and a trip to Mount Salak is just the tonic. The landscapes around these volcanoes are breathtaking, from the greens of the farmland and jungle, to the Mars-like desolation of the smoking crater at Kawah Ratu, the views are incredible.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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