Karimunjawa - Indonesia’s Hidden Island Paradise
Karimunjawa may well be Indonesia’s “best kept secret”. This beautiful island off the north coast of Java has perfect white sand beaches, incredible colourful coral and stunning natural landscape all without the crowds and beach clubs of Bali. Check out our complete guide to this amazing island from how to get there, where to stay, what to do and where to eat, our blog covers it all!
Come with us as we explore a magical island. Unspoilt, relatively unknown and still full of the true Indonesian charm. The island of Karimunjawa or Karimun Jawa is the perfect example of why you should sometimes leave the crowds behind and go off on an adventure beyond the bounds and beaches of Bali.
Everybody knows that Indonesia has beautiful islands. Bali, Lombok and the Gili Islands are famous the world over for their incredible landscapes and pristine beaches. Unfortunately being known the world over, means that they’re also very popular. The traditional beauty spots are frequently thronged with tourists and we have all seen the “Instagram versus reality” posts with the queues of people all lining up to take the same selfie.
Getting that “deserted island” paradise may not be as easy as once it was.
But what if we told you there was another Indonesian island, one yet to succumb to fame and the tourists that come with it? It shouldn’t be a surprise that Indonesia holds some secrets in its islands, after all there are over 17,000 of them!
The island of Karimunjawa is, for now, a proper hidden gem. Crystal clear waters, vivid rainbow coloured coral reefs and picture perfect postcard beaches, Karimunjawa is jaw droppingly beautiful. The island is also easy to get to, with all the tourist conveniences, yet still relatively quiet with a small island life feel. Karimunjawa should be added to any Indonesian Java itinerary.
Get there now, before everyone else finds out!!
Contents:
How to get to Karimunjawa?
What to do on Karimunjawa?
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Where is Karimunjawa Island?
The archipelago of Karimunjawa is located off the north coast of Central Java, Indonesia. The National Park of Karimunjawa spans several islands and surrounding coral reefs. Karimunjawa’s closest mainland town is Jepara, with the larger city of Semarang just west, down the coast.
How to get to Karimnunjawa?
Catching the ferry from Jepara
Ferries run daily from the port town of Jepara on the mainland. You can choose between the slow or express ferry. With them taking five and two hours respectively.
Karimunjawa to Jepara ferry times - take these with a pinch of salt but don’t be late!
Express Ferry Schedule - Jepara to Karimunjawa
Monday / Tuesday / Thursday / Friday - 9AM
Saturday - 10AM
Wednesday / Sunday - None
Express Ferry Schedule - Karimunjawa to Jepara
Monday / Thursday - 12PM
Wednesday / Sunday - 11AM
Saturday - 7AM
Tuesday / Friday - None
Tickets for the Express Bahari ferry service cost 200,000 IDR (£10.13 or $12.80) per person for normal class, or 230,000 IDR (£11.65 or $14.72) per person for VIP seating. Tickets can be brought on the day of departure from the ferry terminal in Jepara. As each ferry only runs once a day, the service can get extremely busy on weekends and public holidays. You can book in advance online via a few companies, but they will add a commission to the cost of the ticket.
We opted for the normal class seats, and actually had more space than the VIPs. The VIP cabin had sold out, whereas our massive cheaper class cabin had about 5 people for the 100 plus seats!
To get to the port town of Jepara, you can take buses from all major towns and cities in Java. You can book tickets on 12Go in advance, or directly with the local operators. We travelled from Yogyakarta with DayTrans on an overnight bus that arrived in Jepara a good few hours before the morning ferry.
Semarang is the nearest “big” city and is the closest city with a train station and airport. You can get a shuttle bus from Jepara town for 80,000 IDR per person, or you can hire a taxi from the port for 100,000 IDR per person.
For those whose money is no object (how come you’re reading a backpacking blog?) private charter flights are also available to the small island airport.
Getting to Karimunjawa from Yogyakarta
By bus and ferry:
Many operators run between Yogyakarta and Jepara directly. We opted for an overnight bus with DayTrans that arrived early morning in plenty of time to have breakfast (there is great satay available at the ferry pier) and catch the ferry to Karimunjawa. Our minibus dropped us directly at the ferry terminal and most operators should do this if you ask. Otherwise it’ll be a short taxi ride from Jepara town to the pier.
If you cannot find bus tickets online to Jepara, book a bus ticket to the city of Semarang where you can change to a bus for Jepara.
The Yogykarta to Jepara is the only route we advise that isn’t bookable via 12Go at the moment. There are many operators in Yogykarta however who can book this route for you. If you want to book everything in advance online, book a bus ticket to the city of Semarang and when you arrive there, change buses or take a taxi to Jepara. Book tickets to Semarang from Yogyakarta here. Just bear in mind there is one ferry per day and you need to arrive with plenty of time to purchase tickets and get on board.
Getting to Karimunjawa from Jakarta
To reach the islands of Karimunjawa from Jakarta, you have three options.
Catching a flight:
Taking a flight will be the quickest way to reach the islands from Jakarta, taking just over an hour to fly to Semarang, which is the closest airport to Karimunjawa. Book your flights here.
From Semarang airport, you will need to book a bus or taxi transfer to the ferry port at Jepara.
By bus:
There is a bus route that links Jakarta directly to the ferry port of Jepara. This will take you about 12 hours depending on traffic. Book your bus tickets here.
By train:
There are multiple trains departing the capital of Jakarta to Semarang. The journey time is between 4 to 7 hours depending on the train you choose to take. From Semarang train station, you will need to catch a connecting bus or taxi to the ferry harbour in Jepara.
You can book any of these transport options above on 12Go here.
Getting to Karimunjawa from Bali
From Bali there are multiple different options to get you to Karimun Jawa.
By flight:
You can book a flight from Denpasar airport to Semarang airport that takes about an hour and a half. From Semarang airport you will need to book a bus or taxi transfer that will take you to the ferry port at Jepara. Book your flights here.
By bus:
There are a few different bus operators running routes from Denpasar to Semarang. Again from Semarang, you will need to book a bus or taxi to get your to the ferry port. You can book bus tickets from Denpasar to Semarang here.
If you’d prefer to do everything yourself on your own steam, you will need to catch the ferry to Banyuwangi in East Java. From there you can either take a bus or train to the city of Semarang followed by another bus to Jepara and then finally the ferry to Karimunjawa. If you time this all correctly it will take you between 12 and 16 hours to do in one go (not including the ferry).
Wherever you’re coming from, you can book any of the options listed above in advance from 12Go.
Whichever method you use to reach the island, you will need to pay the National Park fees when you arrive.
How much are the National Park fees for Karimunjawa?
The Karimunjawa National Park fee is 150,000 IDR per person (£7.59 or $9.69). This needs to be paid as soon as you disembark from the ferry.
You will be ushered towards the National Park ticket hut as soon you disembark the boat. Remember to keep these tickets on you at all times on the island.
Where to stay on Karimunjawa?
The majority of accommodation is focused around the southern town on the island where the ferry pier is. You can get everything from budget dorms to luxury resorts.
We opted to stay in Al Kabron Inn and had a fantastic time, with comfy beds, good AC and one of the best showers we’ve had in Indonesia. Netflix on the rooms’ telly was also an added bonus! Breakfast is included daily in the sister restaurant Cap ‘n’ Chris just over the road. Breakfast is a choice of the Indonesian favourites of nasi and mie goreng as well as an American breakfast. We stuck with the Indonesian choices and they were a great start to the day. You can book a stay Al Kabron here.
We’ve also heard great reports of people staying at the Bodhi Hostel and Restaurant, it’s the sister hostel of the excellent Happy Buddha hostel in Yogyakarta and has an onsite cafe serving coffee and brunch. To book a stay, click here.
For those with a boujier budget the Halo Sustainable Resort had amazing views and looked very luxurious, at least from the sneak peak we had at their view!
To check out all available accommodation on the island have a look at the map below. Zoom in or out see all options:
What to do on Karimunjawa?
The beaches of Karimunjawa
You have come to an island paradise for a reason! The beaches of Karimunjawa are stunning, unspoilt (yet) and when we went, pretty much deserted! There are a number of beaches dotted around the island, here are some of our favourites:
Karina Beach (Karimun Beach) / Pantai Karina (location)
If you leave the southern town / ferry port and take the eastern road you will eventually (10-15 minutes by bike, 45 - 1 hour walk) reach the beautiful Karina Beach. It is a small picturesque cove with wooden platforms in the sea, deckchairs on the sand and a small snack and drinks hut. Like many of the beaches on Karimunjawa there is an entrance fee. On Karina Beach the entrance cost was 10,000 IDR (£0.51 or $0.61) per person for tourists.
This was one of our favourite spots on the island. The beach is small enough to feel intimate and secluded, yet large enough that you never felt cramped. The sea was perfectly clear and wonderfully warm. It was also a great spot for some beach based snorkelling!
The hut sells small meals as well as snacks and drinks and even a cheeky beer if you ask nicely!
For those who don't mind an early morning, or driving in the dark, Karina Beach is meant to be one of the best sunrise spots on the island and at night you can sometimes see bioluminescence here.
Bobby Beach / Pantai Bobby (location)
Following the eastern road past Karina Beach you will quickly find yourself at Bobby Beach. Larger than Karina Beach, Bobby Beach is a crescent of perfect white sand full of swings, shaded tables and many different areas to swim in. It has the same entrance fee of 10,000 IDR (£0.51 or $0.61) per person as Karina Beach, but once you are inside, it is clear that the entrance fee is not wasted. The sand is clean and the area meticulously maintained with lots of places to sit in the shade or sun and not a hint of rubbish anywhere.
When we found the beach it had a few families and travellers lounging about but was not busy by any stretch of the imagination. We had a great morning chilling out and swimming around in the clear waters. The beach has a large shallow shelf going out into the sea so it is great for dipping your toes in even if you don't feel like swimming!
There is a cafe selling food and drinks (including beer!) just after you come on to the beach.
If you were looking for an ‘all day’ beach this would be our choice. It has lots of areas to chase / avoid the sun in, good swimming and a decent cafe with seating.
Sunset Beach / Pantai Tanjung Gelam (location)
On the westernmost point of Karimunjawa lies its most famous beach; Sunset Beach or Pantai Tanjung Gelam. We have been to a lot of sunset beaches (Koh Mook and Koh Libong spring to mind) so we are familiar with the premise: start with a westerly facing beach, add in blue sea and sky, mix well with a bar or two and wait for the horizon to set itself on fire, et voila a sunset beach! Karimunjawa fulfilled all of the above criteria with a gorgeous white sanded beach, dotted with bars, bean bags and sun loungers.
Sunset Beach is a good 15-20 minute scooter ride away or at least an hour and a half walk from the ferry pier in the south. The beach is 25,000 IDR per person to enter (£1.27 or $1.60).
The first half of the beach is full of small restaurants and warungs, busy with Indonesian families. Further down the beach you come to the bars and the backpackers. If you are looking for a sunset beer it is to the further end of the beach you should flip your flops.
We made camp at the far end of the beach at the imaginatively named “Sunset Bar” which confusingly had a London Underground sign for a logo and flags flying for a German football team (authentic Indonesia we know). The bar was one of the few with people in and the server was funny and friendly. We made ourselves comfortable on some beanbags and settled in.
The sea, like all of Karimunjawa, is clear and warm and the snorkelling is great right off of the beach as the shallow waters and rocks make a fantastic habitat for all manner of marine creatures.
Sunset Beach is where the parties and campfires happen on Karimunjawa, it is definitely the most popular beach for foreigners. If you want a beer, good company and a stunning sunset, you can’t go wrong with Pantai Tanjung Gelam, we loved it there.
Pantai Batu Topeng (location )
Directly east of Sunset Beach is Pantai Batu Topeng. If you’re heading to Sunset Beach you might accidentally find yourself here first as the scooter park for this beach comes before Sunset Beach’s scooter parking.
Pantai Batu Topeng, like all the beaches on Karimunjawa is white sanded, sapphire sea’d and palm fringed. There is a beach cafe and a few sun loungers available. This beach was much quieter than its neighbouring Sunset Beach so would be ideal for a romantic sunset date.
To head to Sunset Beach from Pantai Batu Topeng, just walk along the beach and climb over the rock pools and you’ll quickly find yourself on Sunset Beach.
Entrance to this beach cost 25,000 IDR per person to enter (£1.27 or $1.60). Be aware that if you park here and walk to Sunset Beach you will have to pay for both beaches.
Pantai Alano (location)
Located on the west of the island, along the main road, past Sunset Beach, you’ll find Pantai Alano beach. Surrounded by palm trees, this little oasis boasts all the usual suspects. White sand, clear water, sun loungers and selfie swings.
The sea is incredibly shallow and feels as though you’re wading through a hot bath. You can walk what seems like miles (probably a couple of hundred metres) out into the sea, and still be standing up. There are plenty of swings out in the shallows for selfies, or just to enjoy swinging over the azure sea.
There is parking at the top of the beach, and a small hut selling noodles and refreshments.
The entrance fee was 5000 IDR (£0.25 or $0.30) per person .
Nirwana / Nirvana Beach - Karimunjawa’s secret beach (location)
As you drive or walk the eastern road, well before Karina or Bobby Beach, you pass the remains of an entrance to a large resort. The resort is long gone, either never fully constructed or completely ruined, but for the intrepid, there lies a beautiful secret. The resort had a private beach.
If you follow the overgrown paved road into the ruined resort you pass a few occupied houses and then the ruins of some cabins. The road winds downwards, the old light posts now cracked and empty, still lining the path. Eventually the path splits in two. One fork leads to the impressive cliffside restaurant, or rather the remains of it.
The cliffside restaurant appears to be mainly intact from the land but is definitely not somewhere we would recommend exploring. From the sea you can see it is missing walls and the wooden floor is rotted with cracks and gaps over large drops down the cliffs and into sea.
Follow the other path down to what was once the resort's private stretch of beach.
The beach is no longer maintained and has a fair amount of driftwood washed up along its shore. It was still, however, stunning. We are always chasing that feeling of discovery, of exploration and Nirwana beach delivered that for us. Palm trees line a crescent of white sand in a perfect private cove. On the left the ruins of the cliff top restaurant loom over everything giving a pleasant, abandoned / secret vibe.
We were the only ones there when we arrived and had a great couple of hours enjoying our own private abandoned resort, swimming in the sea and lounging on the beach. The only person that joined us in the whole of our time there was a farmer taking his herd of goats for a walk.
We were recommended this beach by a friend on the island and there is no sign saying not to enter. The locals we passed on the way were completely unfazed and unsurprised to see us. We do not know if the land will be closed off or even if we were technically trespassing. If you visit Karimunjawa check with your hostel, hotel or guest house before coming to explore.
Also, it goes without saying, be careful! We would leave the abandoned structures well alone, you don't know how stable they are or what has moved in since the people moved out!
Other beaches:
We haven't even attempted to cover every beach on Karimunjawa. Being based in the south of the island there are tons of beaches to the north we never got to visit, and even within the south, there are quite a few we didn't see! If you were on Karimunjawa for weeks you would probably be able to visit a new beach every day! Just do what we did, check out Google Maps and drive! Most beaches are signposted when you have to turn off the main road, just do your research as to what kind of path you may have to pilot your scooter down!
The water off of Karimunjawa is diamond clear!
Tip: There is a lot of coral in the sea, so be careful if you’re wading out with bare feet in the sea! John can confirm that coral cuts are not what you need on the sole of your feet.
Snorkelling and diving in Karimunjawa National Park
Karimunjawa Island is surrounded by incredible, colour filled coral reefs. A snorkelling trip from the island is an absolute must! We love a little snorkelling expedition and our guest house hooked us up with a great itinerary.
We were picked up by bike at 8:30 am from outside our guesthouse and whisked away to a jetty where we jumped on the covered top deck of a wooden boat. The boat and our group sped away across the clear blue sea and took us all around to different snorkelling spots.
We saw an unbelievable array of wildlife that day. Fish of every shape and colour, rainbow sprays of coral and even a camouflaging octopus. We have been on some brilliant snorkelling trips on Koh Lipe and Koh Yao Noi but this was the most colourful and diverse trip we have taken so far. The sea was completely calm, and the visibility was crystal clear underwater. Our guides were amazing, guiding us around coral gardens and pointing out all the incredible marine life. They even snapped photos for us and let us spend as much or as little time as we wanted in each location.
A particular highlight for us was the lunch. We pulled up in some shallows a good few hundred metres from a tiny island in the middle of nowhere. When we hopped overboard we could see that we were standing on a spit of barely submerged land. The white sand stretched away all around us with the turquoise sea gently lapping just over the top. We walked across this bizarre beautiful landscape with the sky being reflected back at us from the mirror sea.
Just below the water you can see the sand / coral shelf. You could walk on it for miles!
Once on the island our lunch was instantly obvious. A large barbeque pit full of the freshest fish we have ever seen was sizzling away. A group of men crowded the barbecue, each expertly basting the fish in a sambal or splashing them with water if they got too hot. The meal was delicious, one of our favourite fish feasts in the whole of our trip so far. It was simple and perfect. Fish, rice, sambal and a bit of green veg, it needed nothing more and neither did we.
Even just looking at this makes us hungry again!
After lunch we had another couple of amazing snorkel stops and another mini island exploration before we were ferried back home. It was one of our favourite days on the island.
We arranged our snorkelling trip through Al Kabron guesthouse and the whole day cost us 275,000 IDR per person (£13.75 or $17.60). This included pick up and drop off from our guesthouse, snorkel mask and flipper hire as well as lunch, snacks and water.
Any guesthouse on the island will be able to arrange a snorkelling trip for you, or check out Get Your Guide to book a tour in advance. You can even book yourself a private snorkelling trip.
For those wanting to go diving on Karimunjawa, there are agencies throughout the town who can arrange this for you, or you can book a trip in advance here.
The Mangrove Forest (location)
Continuing our intrepid adventures into places we may not be meant to go, we made our way north from the town and up to the Mangrove Forest. We had seen the Mangrove Forest Centre advertised throughout the island and had passed the entrance for the Mangrove Tourist area on one of our previous scooter explorations, so we decided to check it out. We pulled up at the suspiciously empty car park and made our way inside.
We found no one at the ticket counter but all the gates were open. A quick Google showed us that the place was listed as permanently closed. We decided to have a little wander around.
It was low tide and the mangroves had their roots exposed as we walked along the raised wooden boardwalk, it was a fantastic sight. The walkways wound deep in the mangrove forest, surrounded on all sides by thick foliage. Every so often there would be a clearing or burst of sunlight as we passed an area damaged by lightning or fire, but the forest was serene and calm. The walkways used to form a long loop you could walk all around, starting at the centre, curving through the forest, past bird watching stations and educational plaques before coming out to the sea itself and looping back around. Nowadays it is sadly in disrepair and it wasn't too far into our expedition until we found the walkways becoming cracked and missing planks. It soon became apparent that it wouldn't be a good idea to keep going, not unless we wanted to tumble a few feet down into the spiky roots and mud of the mangroves.
We hope the Mangrove forest area is redeveloped in the future as it is a beautiful place and a fascinating ecosystem. As it was, it was a fun and exciting little expedition for us. Like Nirwana beach, we would recommend checking with your hostel/guesthouse/hotel on the current state before going. It may be closed off or have deteriorated more since we visited.
Sunsets on Karimunjawa
Being an island whose closest western neighbour is several hundred kilometres away means that Karimunjawa enjoys some phenomenal sunsets. You can, as we have mentioned, enjoy these from Sunset Beach, but there are other options for admiring the fading light.
The Town Harbour
The town harbour gives a fantastic backdrop for the setting sun. We would advise you to come out the bottom of the town square (where the night market is) and watch the sun setting over the boats from the little car park here.
Watching the sun dissolve down into the sea whilst the silhouette of boats bob lazily up and down is a lovely, backpacker budget friendly way of ending an island day.
Amore Cafe (location)
Set on the harbour wall the Amore Cafe is a great sunset spot if you want to stay in town. They serve a good list of bar snacks as well as beer, cocktails and soft drinks. We had our final night's sunset from here and the sky put on a truly spectacular display. The photos below look like we have filtered them or something but no, the sky did legitimately turn purple!
As we’ve mentioned, if you're an early bird and want a spectacular sunrise, head down to Karina Beach or Bobby Beach.
Karimunjawa Night Market (location)
If you are looking for a fishy feast then the Karimunjawa night market is for you. Held every evening on the southern towns green square the night market is full of the catch of the day, with barbecues just waiting to grill it up for you. Anything from snapper to lobster is available, with plenty of glazes and sauces to choose from. We recommend taking an orbit of the stalls and getting a few prices before picking a stall. Even when you have settled on a vendor, get ready to haggle as the first price is frequently ridiculous! Once you have your briney banquet, take a seat on one of the mats scattered around the green and your fish will be ferried to you!
The market also has a few stalls selling tourist trinkets and souvenirs, so even if you’re just there for a browse there’s plenty to keep you occupied.
The Golden Ricefields (location)
We are not usually one for ‘selfie parks’, places full of swings and infinity steps designed for posers to pose posingly in front of. However the Golden Ricefields is more than just a photo opportunity. We stopped in as we were scootering around the island and fancied a drink. We found it to be great. A wooden bridge leads up out of the scooter park and over the rice paddies to a restaurant set high on stilts. The restaurant serves smart looking Indonesian food as well as drinks and smoothies. We were only there for a quick coke zero but the food looked lovely. The restaurant is seasonal so will not be open during the island's quiet season.
The ‘selfie park’ or ‘Instagram creche’ part is a walkway that loops over the rice paddies and around from the restaurant in a square. It does have the usual swings, platforms and stairs to nowhere, but they do not get in the way of the gorgeous views. The island of Karimunjawa is beautiful and the Golden Ricefields provided a perfect platform to appreciate it from.
We can imagine this whole area would look amazing when the rice is ready for harvest!
We would say that the Golden Ricefields is more of a stop along the way than a destination in itself. Luckily the restaurant sits at a natural junction in the island so is an easy recharging point on any scooter driven exploration!
Speaking of scooters…
Exploring Karimunjawa (Karimun Jawa) by scooter
The best way to see the island is to rent a scooter. Almost every accommodation can do this for you and the price seems to be set at 75,000 IDR a day (£3.75 or $4.80), with discounts offered when hiring for multiple days. As always insist on them finding you a helmet!
Jetting about on a scooter on the island’s winding road, the wind in your helmet and the sea to your side was one of our favourite activities, it always is. Exploring things on your own, without a guide and just stopping whenever you feel like it is one of the great joys of backpacking and one we cannot recommend enough.
The island of Karimunjawa is quite large, Google estimates a five hour walk from north to south, so a scooter is essential to get around. For those uncomfortable driving themselves, scooters and regular taxis are available everywhere, just beware of ‘island prices’!
Taking a tour of Karimunjawa
If you would rather a more curated experience of Karimunjawa, which includes transport to and from the island, accommodation and a snorkelling trip, then there are plenty of tour packages available to book.
Check out this tour on Get Your Guide for a multi-day tour that departs from Jepara.
When is the best time to visit Karimunjawa?
For calm seas and drier weather you should visit Karimunjawa in Indonesia’s dry season. The dry season runs from April to October and should give you clearer seas for snorkelling and bluer skies for sunbathing.
How long should I stay on Karimunjawa?
How long is a piece of string? We stayed four nights and would have stayed longer if we could have booked our guesthouse for more! The island is quite large and exploring it is great fun. In terms of ‘destinations’ that are not beaches there are not many on offer, so how long to stay on the island depends on what you want to do there. If you want a week of sunbathing then you can comfortably do that there without getting bored of the food options or running out of new beaches to try. If you just want to have an explore of a beautiful island and be done, you could easily do this in 3 days.
Whatever length of time you stay, we recommend booking your ferry before the day you want to leave. You can do this at their office just outside the ferry pier and it will prevent you being inadvertently marooned on this lovely island.
Where to eat and drink on Karimunjawa?
The majority of restaurants can be found in the main town along with most of the accommodation.
For local Indonesian cuisine, there are local warungs dotted all over serving rice and curry, stalls selling murtabak (make sure to try the chocolate and peanut one) and carts selling nasi and mie goreng. There is also, of course, the night market we’ve mentioned above.
We had an excellent fish, rice and curry with fried tempe and super fresh fish at Warung Ibu Esther. The fish curry was amazing, we were sitting maybe 100 metres from where the fish had been landed that morning. It was also fantastically cheap at 19,000 (£0.95 or $1.22) per plate!
We had a fantastic bowl of soto ayam (Indonesian chicken soup) for 13,000 IDR (£0.65 or $0.83) at Lamongan Pecel Lele Nesu Mulih.
These are all super cheap options, but always check the price in advance as we had a delicious meal rather spoiled in a small out of town warung that charged us 100,000 IDR for two small plates of rice and curry. Not the end of the world but a bit disappointing as we know these should cost at most 50,000 IDR for both plates.
If you’re after more Western fare we can recommend EatandMeet for wood-fired pizza and Waiki for posh coffee. Cap ‘n’ Chris has a lot of Western offerings as well as a pool table and beer.
If you’re on any of the beaches, there will almost certainly be a small stall selling snacks and pot noodles. If you’re on Sunset Beach there is a selection of beach side restaurants.
Conclusion
We honestly considered not writing this article, this is such a beautiful island, we selfishly wanted to keep it on the downlow, but honestly, just go there. It’s not often you find a real life genuine paradise island without the trappings of modern mass tourism.
There are no chain restaurants on Karimunjawa, no Indomaret and no members only beach clubs. What there is is unspoiled beaches, friendly locals, fantastic food and great accommodation. Karimunjawa felt “real”, with working towns and villages, rough and ready roads leading through stunning scenery and a distinct old school island feel. Karimunjawa has all the convenience and beauty of the Thai Islands or Bali but still retains its Indonesian soul and out of the way charm.
Karimunjawa, never change!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The Green Canyon of Cijulang - A Day Floating Through The Jungle Of Batukaras
The Green Canyon is a stunning place, and floating down it's crystal clear rivers is an amazing day out. Check out our blog for our recommendations for a day out in Batukaras' beautiful Green Canyon, from how to get to it to the cost and what to bring. The Green Canyon is a perfect day out read on to find out why!
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Sometimes you just want a little adventure. After a few days exploring relaxing and generally unwinding in Batukaras we were in the mood for some excitement beyond the surf and the beaches. Luckily for us, posters all over the town advertised just what we were looking for, a day out canyoning through the “Green Canyon”. A brief Google image search of the Green Canyon showed us an Eden-like place of hanging vines, moss rocks and clear waters. It looked impossibly pretty, we would have to find out.
A brief scooter ride away from the beachside town of Batu Karas and you cannot miss the tour operators offering Green Canyon expeditions, they line both sides of the street with large billboards.
We settled on Jelajah Green Canyon Indonesia (location) and this turned out to be a great choice. 250,000 IDR (£12.72 or $16.07) each would get us a day's canyoning with a meal, all of the gear and transport to and from the canyon.
Stylishly clad in helmets, life jackets and the latest in fashionable water shoes (we jest, they were definitely not the latest!), we jumped into the back of a flatbed 4x4 and zoomed off on our adventure.
The ride itself was great fun, bouncing through jungle tracks and going up and down ridiculously steep roads. Our group was one of a few setting off that day and our 10 strong river rapid team consisted of us, another couple from Europe and a group of excited Indonesians. We bounced and laughed our way together all the way to the launch site.
We pulled up, seemingly at random, and made our way through a gap in the foliage and down a very steep flight of stairs to the river itself. There were no steps to the water, diving board or boat, you just jumped right in! The water was crystal clear and inviting, the river was quite low and you could see every detail on the river bed. We leapt in one by one.
For the next few hours we floated down what can only be described as a jungle paradise. Birds chirped and distant monkeys crashed through the deep vibrant greenery. Vines trailed their way down towering rock faces to hang over us as we floated down the river. We bobbed through mini waterfalls that fell from above and pushed our way between river rocks as the current took us downstream.
If you look up canyoning elsewhere, it is a more extreme looking activity. Our swim downstream was nothing like the canyoning we had seen online before but it wasn't all relaxing and chillaxing. We flew down natural stone slides, linked arms and legs together to go through rapids as an ungainly snaking group. We would sometimes have to get out and traverse parts by foot, clambering over rock formations and jumping small ravines. Every so often we would stop at towering rocks and the guide would ask who wanted to climb up and jump off of them…
John unsurprisingly thought this was a great idea and volunteered immediately. It was a great idea all the way up the rock scramble and across the top of the cliff but, at the precipice, looking down, the idea seemed less than stellar. Unfortunately there was now a queue of people behind that were waiting for the jump, pride would allow no other course than forward, off of the cliff. Not learning his lesson this happened again later on down stream and resulted in a petrified wail echoing from the canyon walls and a huge, ungraceful splash.
Some say you could hear the screams all the way to the beach…
At last we rounded our final bend in the river and saw our waiting boat. It whisked us away down river and back to where we had begun that morning.
We had our late lunch in a riverside restaurant and enjoyed a great meal (included meals can be so hit and miss on these tours) with our soggy compatriots. We enjoyed curries, rice and a spicy sambal together and dried out in the Indonesian sun.
It had been a great day full of beauty and fun, with just the right amount of excitement and adrenaline thrown in!
Useful Information:
How much does the Green Canyon trip cost?
We paid 250,000 IDR each (£12.72 or $16.07). This included entrance fees, transport to and from the canyon, equipment and lunch.
We had our own scooter and made our own way to the meeting point, but our friends were picked up from their Batukaras guesthouse and dropped off at the end of the day.
Can I do the trip if I am not confident in the water?
Our guides were amazing and very accommodating. We encountered many groups of varying confidence throughout our trip down the canyon. We would say you must be able to swim (although you are mainly just floating in a life jacket) at a minimum and not have any issues with your mobility. There is rock scrambling at times but the guides were always on hand helping those less comfortable or able.
A lot of the day was spent just floating downstream, admiring the scenery.
If swimming isn't your thing there are tours available by boat in the Green Canyon. In the season when the river is low they cannot get as far in as the canyoning experience but it would still be a beautiful trip!
What should I bring?
If you have water shoes of your own bring them, the tour company has a large selection in most sizes but you would be more comfortable in shoes of your own.
The sun is also very intense so we would recommend a rash vest or old t-shirt to keep you protected!
If you have a waterproof action camera e.g. a GoPro we would definitely recommend bringing it. The canyon is beautiful and so much fun to photograph and record, just make sure you bring a grip that floats!
What about food, drink and toilets?
There are no toilets in the canyon, once you board the jeep that is it until you get off the boat at the end. So go beforehand!
For food and drink, there is a stop around halfway down the canyon where you can get tea, coffee and instant noodles at surprisingly reasonable prices - Two sets of instant noodles and tempe cost us 2400 IDR (£1.27 or $1.61).
As we mentioned the entrance price includes a yummy late lunch at the end of the tour.
How do I book a Green Canyon tour?
We booked by contacting Jelajah Green Canyon through WhatsApp. You can either do this, or arrange a tour through your accommodation. There are plenty of tour operators in the area offering Green Canyon trips, just make sure you confirm the total price in advance.
If you’re in Java and short on time, Get Your Guide offer a tour from Yogykarta that also includes the Green Canyon amongst other things. This would be a great way to maximise a short stay on Java. Book this trip here.
For those staying in Jakarta, Viator offer a 3 day excursion which also includes the Green Canyon. Check it out here.
Conclusion
The Green Canyon trip was one of our favourite activities we did on the whole of Java. Busy enough to be sociable and fun, whilst never feeling overcrowded. It was a beautiful way to spend a day, floating through lush jungle, surrounded by nature whilst also spiking your adrenaline with some rapids, jumps and rock scrambles.
Definitely give it a go!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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A Guide To Batukaras - Java’s Secret Surfing Gem
Batukaras or Batu Karas is a true undiscovered gem in West Java. This sleepy surf town has so much to offer, from perfect surf, a great beach and amazing scenery to tasty restaurants and budget friendly places to stay. Batukaras is often overlooked by international tourists in Indonesia, check out our guide to see why it should be an essential stop on your Javan itinerary.
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Batukaras was honestly what we hoped to find since starting out on our great adventure. A relic of a type of travel we thought had long since passed. A small beachside village that felt almost undiscovered and far from the mass tourism of other coastal areas throughout southeast Asia.
Batukaras, also known as Batu Karas, is a small beach town, full of surfers, natural beauty and awesome locals that honestly feels as though it hasn’t changed a lot since the 70s. It was far from the popular tourist haunts of Bali and Lombok and was everything we had hoped to find in Indonesia and more. We spent nearly a fortnight in this little surfers paradise and could easily have spent longer!
Contents:
How to get to Batukaras
What to do in Batukaras
What to eat and drink in Batukaras
When to visit Batukaras?
The best time to visit Batukaras is during Java’s dry season which runs from May to October. During this time you will have long warm days and minimal rainfall. For beginner surfers, this would be the optimal time to learn as the waves are mellow and are perfect for those wanting to learn the basics. We visited at the beginning of September and had perfect waves, hot days and uncrowded beaches.
If you’re a more experienced surfer, the wet season (November to April) will provide you with more dramatic waves, but with a trade off of more wet days and stormy skies!
How to get to Batukaras?
Batukaras or Batu Karas is located on a peninsula on the southern edge of West Java. The closest city is Pangandaran to the east of the village.
There are no train or bus stations within the village of Batukaras itself, so it’s a little more difficult to get to, than other places in Java. This relative isolation works to Batukaras’ advantage, only those who know about it and really want to go will get to this idyllic cove. Once you do arrive though, it’ll totally be worth the longer journey time.
Getting to Batukaras by train:
The nearest train stations to Batukaras are Banjar in the north with its links to Jakarta and Bandung and Sidareja to the north east which links to Bandung in the north, Cilicap in the south and Malang and Solo in the east.
From both train stations you will need to arrange a taxi to take you onwards to Batukaras. We organised one ahead of time with our accommodation.
You can book your train tickets in advance using 12Go.
The views you get from the train in Indonesia are incredible!
Getting to Batukaras by bus:
The nearest bus station to Batukaras is in the small town of Cijulang. From here buses connect to the larger bus terminal at Pangandaran.
There is also a daily bus leaving around 6am in the morning which connects the town with the cultural hub of Yogyakarta and its international airport.
From Ciljulang bus station you will need to arrange a transfer to your accommodation in Batukaras.
We booked our bus tickets through our accommodation, but if you’d like to book tickets online and in advance, we’d recommend using 12Go. Online we can only find bus tickets to get you to Banjar, which will mean you will still need to arrange transport from Banjar to Batu Karas.
Where to stay in Batukaras?
Being a beachside destination, the small village of Batukaras is full of guesthouses, hostels and hotels. Ranging from the basic to the upmarket, there’s something for everyone.
We stayed in the excellent Jelajah Batukaras. This guesthouse provided us with a large room with two double beds (we hadn’t had an argument but it was very handy to have a bed for our backpacks), an en-suite bathroom and an outdoor seating area. The owner of the guesthouse was super friendly and organised a cheap scooter for us as well as booking taxis and our onward bus tickets to Yogyakarta.
Book your stay at Jelajah Batukaras here.
For those looking for something more upmarket, we can recommend a stay at the House of Sawah. This small boutique surfers retreat / resort offers beautiful rooms which look out directly over the paddy fields. With breakfast included from their café and surfboards to rent, it's the perfect base for those looking to catch some waves.
Book your stay at House of Sawah here.
If there’s a group of you and you’re wanting a beachside villa, similar to those you can find in Bali, then The Beach House has enough beds for 10 people, a swimming pool and a beachside view. Check it out here
Have a look at the map below for all the other accommodation choices on offer in the area (zoom out a little for all the options):
What to do in Batukaras?
Batukaras Beach
The black sanded beach of Batukaras is probably the main reason why you’re staying or visiting Batukaras.
This beach arches around a sheltered cove, with gentle waves lapping against the shore. On the right hand edge, a shelf of rock juts out into the sea and it is this shelf that generates the perfect waves for visiting surfers.
There are a few warungs, seaside shops and a great coffee shop circling the beach. There is also a small viewpoint you can climb from the carpark on the right hand side of the beach.
During the week, you’ll have the whole beach to yourselves for sunbathing, swimming or surfing. However, if you are visiting during the weekend, just be aware the beach population swells as Indonesian families flock to the beach for some much needed r&r!
The second beach of Batukaras is the fishing beach which runs along the whole coastal main road of the village. This is still a “working” beach with colourful fishing boats parked up at all times of the day. Although not a beach for sunbathing, it's the perfect location to take a walk and watch the local fishermen tend to nets, dry their fish or get their boats ready for the next catch.
Surfing / surf lessons on Batukaras Beach
Batukaras is famed for having some of the best waves for beginners learning to surf. No matter your skill level, a surf lesson in Batukaras should be one of your top priorities!
All along the beach are surfboards available to rent as well as the Batukaras Surf School which offers lessons throughout the day for beginners to learn the ropes.
We are complete novices at surfing, so we took a lesson. We had a great afternoon falling off surfboards and occasionally catching a wave as it broke around Batukaras Point. With help from our instructors we even managed to stand up… it was not graceful!
A two hour surf lesson will provide you with a personal teacher who will teach you the basics on the beach and then take you out into the surf to practise catching waves.
A two hour lesson will cost you 350,000 IDR (£17.50 or $22.40) and the cost of renting a surfboard is 100,000 IDR (£5.00 or $6.40). The cost of the board rental is for the whole day. The cost for renting a board and the surf lessons are a standard price across the whole beach.
Along the beach and in the town are dedicated surf resorts and camps. In the high season, this would be a great way to meet fellow travellers and surfers. We can recommend checking our Hau Beach Batukaras or House of Sawah.
Green Canyon
If surfing wasn’t enough to fuel your adrenaline, then why not book yourself a day trip to explore the Green Canyon?
The Green Canyon is a beautiful turquoise river that has carved its way through thick jungle. There’s no better way to spend a day than floating down the gentle rapids, with the sound of monkeys and birds all around.
During a trip to the canyon, you’ll get to body raft down the rapids and waterfalls, jump off rocks and float your way down the river. It’s a beautiful trip, with as many or few fear inducing jumps as you want!
It was one of our most fun and chilled out excursions we’ve done, and we can highly recommend a trip. You can read more about our day at the Green Canyon here.
Hire a scooter
Hiring a scooter is the perfect way to explore some more of the coastline around Batukaras. Scooter hire is easy, with almost every guesthouse, hostel and hotel offering scooter rental. We paid 40,000 IDR per day (£2.00 or $2.56) for a scooter and two helmets. There is a petrol pump within the village to fill up the tank.
A little more Surrey schoolboy than Hell’s Angel…
From Batukaras there are two main routes we’d recommend exploring by scooter. These are:
West towards Sindangsari
This pretty route follows the dramatic coastline past huge cliff formations sitting out in the rough sea, deserted beaches and small fishing villages.
To follow this route, helmet up and drive your scooter to Batukaras Beach. Head past the beach and drive up the steep hill behind the carpark and up onto the headland to reach Jalur Batu Karas road. Here you’ll pass by thick scrubland with phenomenal views out to the coast.
After a short drive, you’ll eventually head back down to sea level, past paddy fields and small villages until you reach Madasari Beach(location).
We’d recommend parking your scooter up here and taking some time to explore the area. The beach itself is split into two, with two sides of the beach being separated by a small peninsula that juts out into the rough sea. If the tide permits, cross over the black sand to the central rocky outcrop, to get some incredible coastal views.
The view from this peninsula is amazing. Stand on the edge of the cliff to see the incredible might of the ocean as the huge waves thunder past, crashing onto the black sanded beach in a crest of roaring bubbling white. In amongst this churning maelstrom stone behemoths rise up. These enormous sea stacks, capped with green foliage, create a natural barrier against the tide.
When we visited we could only access one of these stacks by foot, but depending on tides, it may be possible to access the others close to the shore. After walking around the cliffside islands, head back down to the beach and watch the waves roll in.
If you time it right, we’d recommend stopping at one of the seafood warungs that line the road for a seafood feast. These small warungs offer a small menu of fresh lobster, crab, prawns and the catch of the day. We stopped at the Ocean View Warung (location) and had one of the best meals of the trip so far.
We sat down at a wooden table and were presented with a large banana leaf that covered the table.
Someone is ready for a crabby lunch!
What came next was, there is no other word for it, a feast! Trays of freshly steamed crabs, rice, chilli sambal and stir fried vegetables filled our banana leaf table. It was time to get our hands dirty.
We gorged ourselves on a cornucopia of crustaceans. Sweet crab meat, paired with a hot and fiery sambal and garlicky greens, every mouthful was flawless. Eating crabs is never an elegant affair, but the taste is more than worth the mess. After cleaning shards of shell off our face, we paid our bill and were frankly amazed that such a feast had only cost 311,000 IDR (£15.55 or $19.90). This was for four freshly caught and steamed crabs, enough rice for an army, stir fried greens, two sambals and tea. It was a little pricey for a backpackers lunch, but as a treat, we don’t think you could get better for the price.
It was an absolute crab feast!
As you continue down the coast, you will pass through Madasari village. This small village has a few shops, warungs and guesthouses. As you exit the village, you’ll reach the Tugu Tsunami Pangandaran (location) memorial. This statue commemorates the hundreds of people who died or went missing during the tsunami that hit this coastline on 17th July 2006.
Continue driving along the coast until you see the cylindrical white tower of Mercusuar Legok Jawa Lighthouse (location). The gates to the lighthouse were locked when we visited, but it’s still a good place to stop and take a few photos.
As you leave the lighthouse, the road clings to the windswept coastal road. Huge waves crash onto the sandy shoreline, whilst sea spray wreathes the air. It’s a fantastic drive along a smooth tarmacked road, and at least when we visited, very little traffic.There are lots of car parks you can pull into along the shoreline, for walks along the beach or to explore the area. Most of these rest stops will have a small shop or stall selling fresh fruits, snacks and drinks.
When you get to the town of Sindangsari, you have three options. Continue west down the coast road, east on the main road back to Cijulang, or do a u-turn and head back the way you came, back along the coast and headland to Batukaras.
East towards Cijulang and Pangandaran
The roads between Batukaras and the nearest town of Cijulang are very picturesque.
There is the main road through town and another which takes you along the coast and past the airport. When we visited the coast road was a quagmire as it was being repaired and so we could only take the main road.
To head to Cijulang, on the main road, head north out of Batukaras. Here you’ll pass green rice paddies straight out of a postcard, an estuary and lagoon lined with coconut palms, fishing vessels and little villages.
When you reach Cijulang we’d recommend stopping for a coffee in Diujung Laut Coffee & Roastery (location). This achingly cool coffee shop roasts its own beans and has a full coffee menu. Make sure you order inside and head out to the Japanese inspired garden, which is full of smooth concrete, pebbles and dark green plants. We can especially recommend their iced lime espressos which were citrusy, refreshing and delicious. Why has citrus and coffee not taken off in the UK?
After coffee, if you’re still peckish we’d recommend you stop for lunch at Mahati Resto Restaurant (location). Set off the main road from the airport, this beautiful, Balinese style restaurant has been built overlooking the rice fields. With tables and chairs dotted around its pretty garden, and with views of the paddies from every seat, this restaurant is well worth a visit, even if it’s just for an Insta-worthy post! The restaurant has a small menu offering all the Indonesian favourites as well as burgers, pancakes, juices and smoothies.
We had two excellent plates of Ayam Goreng with delicious spicy sambal and the juiciest fried chicken you can imagine. We can also recommend their strawberry mocktail and iced teas.
After exploring the small town of Cijulang, head out along the coast road towards Pangandaran stopping off at the beaches of Maura Bojong Salawe and Batu Hiu Beach. The rock formation of the cliffs at Batu Hiu Beach is supposed to look like a shark! We’re not really sure if we can see the resemblance, but we’ll let you decide.
If the coast road has been completed, it should be a much faster route in and out of Cijulang. Let us know in the comments if it has been finished.
Cijulang town
Batukaras has lots of small shops and one Alphamart, so the nearby town of Cijulang is the best place to buy supplies, visit a pharmacy and re-charge your wallet. If you have a scooter it only takes 10 to 15 minutes to ride there.
ATMs in Batukaras
There are no ATM machines in Batukaras. The nearest ATM can be found in Cijulang, so if you’re heading there on a scooter it's a good idea to top up your cash supplies. The majority of businesses in Batukaras operate by cash only so make sure you bring enough cash with you to cover your stay.
Watch the sunrise or sunset
Given its southerly location, Batukaras is the perfect place to watch both the sun rise and the sun set. Whichever you are (early riser or night owl), we’d recommend heading down to the fishing beach to watch the sun come up or sun go down.
The Batukaras fishing beach is always a hive of activity with fishermen coming in or going out to sea in their colourful fishing boats. If you’re lucky you may even see a group of locals pull a large net full of fish onto the beach. If you head down the beach (towards the airport) close to the fish market, you’ll find a broken pier jutting out into the sea. This is a great place to sit and watch the world go by or the sun rise.
As you head back along the road, just keep an eye on where you stand as the road is often covered with tarpaulins full of drying fish!
Another great spot to watch the sunset from is the Kedai Mini Resto Rice Field which we’ll go into more detail below.
Activities further afield
Located about an hour away to the east, lies the large coastal town of Pangandaran. With white sandy beaches, a National Park to explore and plenty of seafood restaurants, there’s enough to keep you occupied for a day or so!
Just remember that like Batukaras, this is a popular weekend spot for Indonesian city dwellers and can get very busy.
Where to eat and drink in Batukaras?
Hang Five Coffee and Surf
(location)
This small beachside coffee shop serves as the common room for surfers heading into or out of the waves. Serving excellent coffee and sweet treats from morning to nightfall, this sleek coffee shop became our go to for morning coffee and pastries.
Hangfive is a very chilled out place
Head inside, order your coffee then take a perch outside and listen to the sound of crashing waves. There are lots of places to sit, including a large, tiled plinth to lounge on and sip your caffeinated beverage. If you’ve just come straight from the waves, there’s a shower just outside this coffee shop to wash the sand off you!
Two iced lattes cost us 60,000 IDR (£3.04 or $3.85). A bit more expensive than a street side coffee, but given the beachside location, delicious fresh ground coffee and chilled out vibes, it was definitely worth it for your morning pick me up! We loved Hang Five Coffee and Surf and frequented it almost daily.
The coffee shop also sells rash vests, t-shirts, surfboard wax and other accessories.
Hang Five Coffee and Surf is located right next to the large car park at Batukaras Beach so there’s plenty of space to park your scooter.
House Of Sawah
(location)
Just off a small road and surrounded by paddy fields, this upmarket cafe and bar serves breakfast, brunch and evening meals.
Set in a wooden framed building, with large open windows, the cafe area is super stylish. With sleek wooden furniture and a brushed concrete bar, entering the cafe feels as though you’ve been transported straight to the heart of Bali.
House of Sawah offers all the brunch favourites, from smashed avocado on sourdough toast, eggs in every way, granola, fruit bowls, pastries, pancakes and much, much more. For drinks the restaurant offers fresh fruit juice, smoothies, tea and coffee.
After many months of travelling and eating only street food and local delicacies for breakfast we treated ourselves to a brunch here twice. We chose the scrambled egg deluxe option which was sourdough toast topped with scrambled egg and sauteed oyster mushrooms served with garlic spinach and a drizzle of truffle oil. Not your average Indonesian breakfast, but boy was it delicious! This with two flat whites cost us 200,000 IDR (£10.14 or $12.82). An expensive breakfast for Indonesia, but compared to what you get in London, this was a complete steal.
The avocado on toast was also delicious!
For lunch and dinner, the restaurant offers Indonesian favourites alongside pasta, curries, beef burgers and salads. The restaurant also serves alcohol with a small selection of craft beer on offer, Bintang and even a cocktail menu.
For our last night in Batukaras we treated ourselves to a meal here and opted for a plate of nachos to share, two beef burgers and two large Bintang which cost us 345,000 IDR (£17.49 or $22.10). Again a lot more expensive than our usual evening meals, but given this came with two beers and we had a starter, it really wasn’t too bad.
House of Sawah is a little more pricey than what’s on offer elsewhere in town, but given its beautiful location, high quality ingredients and great coffee, it’s totally worth it for a backpacking treat!
House of Sawah is set a couple of roads back from the Batukaras fishing beach. As you reach the junction for House of Sawah, for those on foot, turn left off the road and head along a small footpath set above the lush green paddy fields. For those driving a scooter, just head a little further along the road and follow the driveway that leads to the carpark.
House of Sawah is also a surf resort offering private en-suite accommodation in small wooden cabins that have views directly over the paddy fields. They will also help you in arranging board rental and surf lessons. Book your stay here.
Kedai Mini Resto Rice Field
(location)
The Kedai Mini Resto Rice Field is a small open terraced restaurant with a bamboo roof that overlooks the surrounding paddy fields. Set a foot or so above the fields, this restaurant gives you front row seats to watch the setting sun as it lowers below the palm filled horizon.
The restaurant serves all the Indonesian favourites from fried rice (nasi goreng), fried noodles (mie goreng), coconut milk curry and gado gado (a hot and cold green salad served with a half boiled egg and peanut sauce) to pizzas, pasta, burgers, salad and french fries. The restaurant also has a small coffee bar and also serves Bintang beer.
We always ordered from the Indonesian side of the menu and were never disappointed with large plates of steaming hot mie and nasi goreng served with a fried egg and crunchy keropok crackers.
Our advice would be to get here a little early (just before sunset) so you can grab the prime seats right at the front of the restaurant and have an uninterrupted view of the setting sun.
The restaurant can get very busy during the evening, and with only a small kitchen and all food cooked to order, there may be a little wait for your food.
For two plates of egg and vegetable mie goreng and two soft drinks we paid 60000 IDR (£3.04 or $3.84). Super affordable, tasty and all with an incredible view!
Bonsai Warung
(location)
On the main road through Batukaras, sits the Bonsai Warung. Wafting out the sweet smell of satay, this roadside restaurant serves fried rice, curries, noodles and Indonesian classics such as gado gado and ayam geprek (fried chicken smashed together with a spicy sambal on top of rice).
We especially recommend the satay, which you can choose from chicken, beef or goat and are all delicious! A plate of chicken satay is 15,000 IDR (£0.75 or $0.96). Beef and goat are double this at 30,000 IDR each.
All food is cooked to order, so if it's busy there may be a little wait. Don’t worry it's totally worth your time!
They also have an extensive fish menu available on request. We didn’t order ourselves but on our last visit were made very jealous as an Indonesian family were served mountains of barbecued prawns, fish and squid.
The restaurant also serves beer but runs out quite quickly, so if you fancy a drink with your meal go early!
Salt Cafe
(location)
Set over the road from the fisherman’s beach, the Salt Cafe became our go to for a couple of cheeky sunset beers. With super friendly staff and a menu serving both Indonesian classics to Western favourites there was something on the menu for everyone.
With seating outside facing the beach and the fishing boats, it’s a great place to sit down and sip an ice cold Bintang. The availability of beer combined with the friendly staff made the Salt Cafe our unofficial Batukaras bar. If you’re having a sundowner beer, the deep fried vegetable fritters called bala bala make the perfect accompaniment.
Cheers Batukaras!
When we were visiting they were just about to open up a coffee shop next door. Let us know in the comments if you’ve tried it!
Warung Nasi Tin’s
(location)
Located on the main road opposite the fishing beach, this small hole in the wall warung became our go to for lunch on most days we were in Batukaras.
For those who are new to Indonesia, warungs can be found all over the country and are local food joints that serve a selection of traditional Indonesian food. Check out our guide to eating in one of these local restaurants here.
Open from mid morning, the front window of this warung would be decked out in a mosaic of metal trays of different curries, fried fish, noodles and vegetables.
We almost always opted for a plate of everything, with some of our favourite dishes being the egg curry, fried fish, sweet and sour tempe and steamed vegetables.
A plate of rice and curry is our favourite way to eat and the offerings from this warung certainly didn’t disappoint.
Just head inside, ask for a plate of rice and point to whichever dishes you would like. Plate loaded, sit on one of the few tables dotted around the outside of the warung.
With a sea view and some of the tastiest food we ate in the whole of Indonesia, it’s a warung that we're going to remember for a very long time.
Our lunches (for two people and water), depending on the number of curries we opted for and whether we had chicken or fish ranged from 40,000 IDR (£2.02 or $2.56) to 70,000 IDR (£3.57 or $4.48). An absolute steal for the mountain of food we consumed.
The view from the warung wasn’t bad either!
Kedai Samboja
(location)
This small restaurant has a small menu serving just Indonesian favourites. With a selection of mie goreng made with different size noodles, nasi goreng with egg, vegetables or seafood and ayam geprek, the menu had everything you could want.
We both opted for mie goreng jawa (angel hair fried noodles) served with egg, crackers and vegetables. It was delicious and super cheap at 40,000 for both plates (£2.03 or $2.56).
If you visit, check out the specials board on the whiteboard at the entrance.
Final thoughts
Batukaras was everything we wanted to find and more. A hidden beachside gem, surrounded by rice paddies. By the time we found Batukaras we had been travelling for well over a year and it has become obvious to us that the advent of the internet and the boom in easy travel has made it much harder to find any truly “off the beaten path” destinations.
Batukaras does not have the pristine white sanded beaches of Thailand, it does not have the co-working spaces of Bali, what it does have though, is that genuine travel experience. That feeling of having found something truly special and (not yet) widely known. Add to this some of the most genuinely lovely locals, who went above and beyond to welcome us and make sure we had a great time and you can see why this is a very special place.
Batukaras is a beautiful, laidback, chilled out surf town, the type that we honestly not sure existed anymore. We cannot overstate how much we enjoyed our time in this little town in the deep south of West Java. Get here now, but please never change it.
There are always places when travelling that as soon as you leave you long to return to, Batukaras is just this.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Gunung Padang - Hiding In The Hill’s, West Java's Mysterious Ruins
Gunung Padang has recently found itself at the centre of archaeological debate. How old is Gunung Padang? Is it really the oldest evidence of advanced civilisation on the planet or is the research flawed? We will answer none of these questions but we may be able to help if you want to know how to get there, what it is like and whether you should go. Read our article to check out our adventures at Gunung Padang.
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Deep in the hills of West Java lies a mystery, an oddly shaped hill full of strange shaped stones arranged into terraces. Gunung Padang is, depending who you ask, the world's oldest pyramid, evidence of extraterrestrials or just a fascinating archeological site. There’s lots of debate on which interpretation is correct, so we decided to make the trip from the West Javan capital of Bandung and see Gunung Padang for ourselves.
What Is Gunung Padang?
That is a very controversial question. On one side of the debate, Gunung Padang is the world's oldest mega structure, a massive pyramid that predates the pyramids of Giza by millennia. It is the first known organised mass construction anywhere in the world. The researchers at Gunung Padang claim the site to be over 25000 years old, for context Stonehenge is only a few thousand years old and the oldest human city of Göbekli Tepe is a little over 10000 years old. If correct, Gunung Padang would be the oldest evidence of advanced civilisation found anywhere in the world. The researchers claim it is a mega pyramid, mostly still covered by the surrounding forests and hillside, and would have required construction techniques far in advance of what we understand humans of the time to be capable of. They believe there to be complex structures, and deep subterranean chambers buried within the pyramid.
However, there are two sides to this debate and the international archeological community are… sceptical to say the least. They agree that it is an important site but disagree with pretty much everything else. It may not be a pyramid at all, it definitely wasn’t built by some hyper-advanced civilization that has since disappeared and it may in fact be largely naturally formed. They certainly do not agree with the Indonesia archaeological team's methods or conclusions as to its age. Pottery fragments in the area range from 1900 to 2000 years ago and they feel this is more in line with the likely truth. For a more thorough breakdown of the debate have a look at this article.
What Gunung Padang is to you or me though, is a fascinating, beautiful site buried deep in the rolling hills of West Java, far from the big cities and, when we visited, far from any tourist crowds.
What Is Gunung Padang Like To Visit?
The site is spread over several levels, and after parking up we climbed a steep set of stairs though dense foliage and emerged into the archaeological park.
The steep stone staircase leading to Gunung Padang!
Gunung Padang is made of hundreds of thousands of hexagonal volcanic rocks arranged into five terraces stretching up the side of an extinct volcano. It is a striking site and unlike anything we have seen before.
Each level is slightly different with outlines of what once may have been structures dotting the green terraces. The area is rife with local legends, chief of which is the story that the whole edifice is the result of King Silliwangi’s attempt at building a palace in a day. The place is held as a sacred site for the local Sundanese people and there are mythical rocks with magical properties placed throughout the site.
At the top level you have great views down the park across the lower terraces, it’s a lovely place to pause and get some photos. There are also a small collection of shops and stalls selling refreshments and meals.
The top should not be the end of your expedition however! Behind the stalls is a narrow path. We followed this path out the back of the ruins and (after clambering over a collapsed shop) came out onto some absolutely stunning rice terraces. The path winds between the terraces and the view just stretches out across the green steps down the mountainside and away into the distance, it is a beautiful spot. If this was in Bali or somewhere more touristy, there would be a queue, a mascot and possibly some selfie swings, but here on the slopes of Gunung Padang there was just us and the view.
How To Get To Gunung Padang?
There is no "easy way" to get to Gunung Padang.
There is a train station at Lampegan but this will drop you a good long way down a steeply inclined road from the site itself. Google tells us that it is a one hour fifty walk of around seven kilometres, we have obviously not tested this! If you do walk, please let us know in the comments how it goes. Lampegan train station sits on the line between Bandung and Sukabumi. Although if you're coming from the Bandung side you may need to change at Cipatat.
The easiest way to get to Gunung Padang is to drive. Either self drive if you've rented a car (get good GPS) or splash the cash like we did and hire a driver.
We paid 800,000 IDR (£41.60 or $52.80) for a driver to pick us up at our accommodation in Bandung, drive us the three plus hours to the site, wait for us while we explored and then drive us back. As a bonus we also stopped for one of the best lunches we had in our whole Javanese adventure! Roadside warungs are not to be underestimated.
There are many operators offering this service throughout Bandung and you might be able to get this cheaper than we did. Check out this link to book your driver and car in advance:
How Long Do You Need To Spend Visiting Gunung Padang?
Despite photographers best efforts to convince us otherwise, the actual megalithic site of Gunung Padang is not that large. After you've climbed the stairs there are 5 layers of terraces and a short walk to a viewpoint. All in all, aim for two hours, more if you've brought a picnic.
How Much Does It Cost - Entrance Fees For Gunung Padang?
Tickets for Gunung Padang are extremely reasonable, with tickets to the archaeological site costing just 5000 IDR each (£0.26 or $0.33).
There is also another ticket you will need to buy at the same time, which seemed to be some form of park fee but again this was super cheap at 5000 IDR each (£0.26 or $0.33). It was unclear whether this ticket had anything to do with us being in a car, either way it hardly broke the bank.
Total entrance cost per person 10,000 IDR (£0.52 or $0.66).
What Facilities Are At The Site?
Car Parking
There is limited car parking at the bottom of the hill right next to the entrance.
Toilets
There are toilets available at both the top and bottom of the site. We didn't use them so can't comment on their squatty or otherwise nature.
Food And Drink
There are some small shops and warungs scattered around the car park and at the top of the site next to the viewpoint trail. Food choice is limited to instant noodles, fried rice and dried snacks.
As a note here, you've probably already noticed that you will spend more time travelling to the site than at it, but this doesn't change our recommendation. The drive to the site is a treat in itself. As the urban sprawl falls away as you leave Bandung, you start to journey through rice fields, villages and eventually up some winding mountain roads that are surrounded by tea plantations. It's almost worth it just for the journey!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The Orchid Forest of Cikole - Bandung’s Hidden Green Heart
The Orchid Forest of Cikole is a colourful day out north of the West Javan capital of Bandung. Full of beautiful flowers, blooming orchids, rabbits and even a crazy golf course, the orchid forest is a great day out. Read our guide to find out why you should add this to your Indonesian itinerary, from what is on offer, practical tips and how to get there.
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After a night glamping under the pine forest and stars at the Be Glamping campsite of Lembang, we were up early to explore the local area.
Surrounded by thick pine trees, the Orchid Forest of Cikole piqued our interest. Boasting a forested walk, a chance to see orchids of every shape and colour, and many opportunities for a selfie, it seemed like this forest park was the perfect way to spend the day!
Where Is The Orchid Forest And How To Get There?
The Orchid Forest of Cikole is located on the slopes of Mount Tangkuban Parahu (sometimes spelt Perahu). The nearest city of Bandung (West Java’s capital) is only an hour away by car, and Indonesia’s capital of Jakarta is just over three hours away.
For those who don’t drive, Bluebird, Grab and GoJek can be booked to and from the Orchid Forest to the city of Bandung. This should cost you roughly 100,000 IDR per journey.
For those travelling from Bandung, when you enter the Cikole area you will need to pay a park fee of 20,000 IDR per person and 30,000 IDR to drive your car within the park boundaries.
For those staying at Be Glamping or one of the many surrounding campsites, the Orchid Forest is only a short 30 minute walk up the hill, or an even shorter drive of 6 minutes.
What Is The Orchid Forest?
As the name suggests, the Orchid Forest is a forest full of, you guessed it, orchids! Home to over 20,000 species, the site allows visitors to walk through the forest grounds, through a large glass house and enjoy some beautiful landscape gardens. If you time it correctly there are even performances and concerts within the beautiful grounds.
Also within the park is a suspension bridge hanging in the canopy, a petting zoo full of bunnies, a crazy golf course, a children's play area and several cafes and restaurants.
How Much Are The Entrance Tickets To The Orchid Forest?
Entrance tickets cost 100,000 IDR each (£5.20 or $6.60). Within the site, there are other activities that have a cost on top of this, but they are generally very cheap.
This entrance fee is comparatively pricey for Indonesia, however the grounds are beautifully and tastefully maintained and we spent a good few hours visiting, so we did not feel this was too expensive.
What Was Our Experience Like Visiting The Orchid Forest?
After a sweaty climb up the hill from our campsite, we arrived at the forest entrance. Tickets brought, we entered and immediately made a bi-line to the nearest coffee shop. Luckily for us, there was one immediately on the left after the entrance. Two hot lattes later we were caffeinated and ready to take on some serious botany.
The start of the forest walk winds through a copse of trees, with small paths snaking about and through each other. Overhead moss balls and orchids swung attached by twine to a trellis. Every so often, there were steps up to viewing platforms and selfie spots. These selfie spots are worth remarking on for what they didn’t have. Across the world, the craze of Instagram and selfies have led to a rash of horrible plastic signage, crowding otherwise pretty views. These platforms were free of any tacky mascots or attempts to force a company logo into your pictures. Obligatory photos snapped, we continued on further.
The copse eventually opened out and we found ourselves standing in a large tree lined glade. In the centre of this green space, flower beds rose up in stepped terraces, each with a different species and coloured flower. Behind this, a green auditorium looked out over a wooden stage, with tiered seating rising around. Our eyes, or more accurately noses, were attracted elsewhere. We hadn’t had breakfast at our campsite this morning and were now decidedly peckish. We could smell patisserie on the wind. A very stylish cafe, is situated amongst the flowers and shrubs. The Golden Pine tea shop serves pastries, cakes, tea and coffee as well as a full range of gelato. We had already had our caffeine fix, so we picked up a four cheese croissant to go. It’s been a while since we’ve eaten good pastry, and this really hit the spot. Cripy, flaky and buttery and filled with cheese, it was the savoury fix our morning needed.
After our cheesy interlude, we headed to the glass house. Housing every conceivable type of orchid, from the rare to the common, the colourful to the camouflaged, the orchid house was beautiful. Plaques showed where each of the orchids grew in Indonesia and beyond and just how picky some of the orchids were about their growing environments. We saw one that would only grow on trees at an exact height above running water, we wouldn’t be surprised if they started dictating their mood music as well. Orchids really are the Prima Donnas of the floral world.
After the orchid house we wandered around what could only be described as the “selfie garden”. Swinging chairs, birdcages, giant arches, you name it, if you could pose photogenically in front of it, it was there. Despite how cheesy this sounds it was actually very tastefully done and every installation blended seamlessly into the aesthetic of the garden as a whole. There were several large light displays, set up throughout the gardens and we have heard that the Orchid Forest is a completely different but equally beautiful experience after dark.
Selfies obtained and swings swung, it was time for crazy golf.
For a small fee of 10,000 IDR each we picked up our clubs and ball and proceeded to demonstrate an extreme lack of hand / eye coordination.
After fourteen entertaining holes, and losing extremely badly in John’s case, we handed back our clubs. It has been years and years since we have played crazy golf and we forgot how much of a laugh it is!
Talking of childhood pursuits, it was now time for the Bunny Village. Quite possibly Ellie’s highlight of the day and the best 52p Ellie has ever spent. Let us make it clear, we would not have ventured into “Bunny Village” if there had been an entrance fee, but it is free to come in and see and stroke the bunnies. 10,000 IDR however gains you access to carrots! Carrots in hand, we suddenly had 15 pairs of bunny eyes trained on us and were quickly surrounded by the big footed furballs. To say they were cute is an understatement. Big fluffy ears, friendly temperament and the most adorable way of eating imaginable, we were sold on “Bunny Village”. There appeared to be some educational plaques about rabbit behaviour but to be honest we were too busy stroking the bunnies to care about that.
After having fed the bunnies it was time to take care of ourselves. Near the exit is a large food court, with many different stalls selling Indonesian favourites. If you want to eat cheaply and you haven’t packed a picnic this is your best bet. We settled on Ayam Goreng Nasi Sambal (fried chicken, tempe, tofu, sambal and rice). It was hearty and delicious and the sambal certainly packed a punch.
After lunch we continued down the path passing the large children’s playground and the suspension bridge / canopy walk and zip line. We skipped the playground and didn’t feel like zip-lining so continued our walk through the pretty forest. Happy with our time in the Orchid Forest we headed towards the exit.
Facilities At The Orchid Park?
Food And Drink In The Orchid Forest
There are lots of different food options available throughout the forest site. There is the upmarket coffee shop near the entrance (which also serves woodfired pizzas), as well as the Pine Kitchen restaurant and The Golden Pine Tea Shop offering more expensive, full meals. Down near the children's playground and exit there is a cheaper food court with many different dining options. You will not go hungry!
Toilets
There are lots of toilets dotted throughout the site, so you won’t need to walk back to the entrance and exit.
Picnic Spots In The Orchid Forest
There are lots of pretty lawns and designated picnic spaces throughout the orchid forest. If we had pre-planned it, and were travelling from Bandung, it would have been lovely to take a picnic.
There is even a stall on the site where you can rent a flower hamper to make your picnics even more scenic and Instagram friendly!
Parking
The car park for the Orchid Garden is just before the main front entrance. Surrounded by shops, warungs and restaurants there is plenty of space to park your car. When you exit the park, there is a free shuttle bus that will drive you back up to the main car park.
Is This A Good Place To Bring Children?
For those of you travelling with children, this would be an excellent place to bring them. Not only is there the petting zoo, raised suspension bridge and crazy golf course, but the Orchid Forest also boasted a humongous playground with swings, slides and climbing nets all set within a pretend castle. Even to us as adults, it looked extremely fun!
Can I Bring My Pet?
Yes, You most certainly can! There is a dedicated pet park and pet trail that winds throughout the Orchid Forest with special pet parking areas for when you want to go around the glass house. There are also some frankly adorable pet selfie spots. It looked as though there was an extra charge to bring your pet in, but as we’re travelling sans pooch we did not find out for sure.
Conclusion
Our visit to the Orchid Forest was so much better than we anticipated. We’ve been to so many similar sites this backpacking trip, and some have been garish; full of in your face Instagram props with little regard to the beautiful environments they are sat in. The orchid forest was peaceful, pretty, immaculately well maintained and kept us entertained for a long morning and early afternoon. If you’re in the Bandung area and looking for a little green escape this is definitely worth your time.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Camping in Indonesia - Glamping on a Volcano!
Join us as we escape the hustle and bustle of the West Javan capital of Bandung and go camping in the lush forests of Lembang. Perched on the side of Mount Tangkuban Parahu, the Be Glamping campsite is a cosy refuge surrounded by nature. Read all about what we get up to and why you should give camping in Indonesia a go!
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Every so often we find ourselves in need of some nature. We always like the hectic hustle of cities and were in love with the chaos of Bandung, but after a few nights exploring and eating amid the traffic and the hubbub we needed an escape. We have always loved camping, but glamping on the side of a volcano, with posh tents and our own BBQ sounded too good to miss. We couldn't wait to get out to the forests of Java, it was time to do some camping in Indonesia.
When's the Best Time to go camping in Java?
Unsurprisingly, the best time for camping in Java is during the dry season that runs from April to October where you’ll have hot, sunny days and not that much rain.
Bear in mind that most of the camping including what we do below is done high up on mountains and volcano sides, so you will need to pack a jumper as it will be a lot colder during the night.
Where To Camp In Java?
There are campsites and glampsites all over the island of Java.
In East Java, you can camp on the slopes of Mount Bromo. In Central Java you can camp amongst the lava fields of Yogyakarta’s Mount Merapi and nearer the capital of Jakarta, you can treat yourself to glamping experiences in Bogor. We however were in West Java …
Outside the West Javan capital of Bandung, to the north of the city, lies Mount Tangkuban Parahu (sometimes spelt Perahu). Tangkuban Parahu is an active volcano (it last erupted in 2019!) popular with hikers and sightseers due to its natural beauty, bubbling hot springs and giant steaming crater. On the fertile volcanic slopes are many resorts, camp sites, restaurants and coffee shops.
One such campsite caught our eye on Google Maps and, after some WhatsApp conversations, we booked ourselves into Be Glamping for a couple of nights beneath canvas.
Be Glamping is set just off the road in a picturesque area of evergreen forest, offering both camping and glamping. Eager to leave the city traffic and grab some fresh air we packed our bags and set off.
Getting To Be Glamping, Cikole Lembang
From Bandung
The easiest way from Bandung to the Be Glamping campsite is by car or taxi.
We used Grab on the way there and Blue Bird Taxi on the way back down. The ride is a little over an hour of winding mountain roads and cost us between 90000-100000 IDR ( £4.60 - £5.10) each way.
We didn’t find a way to get to Be Glamping via public transport. Although it may be possible to get a bus to Lembang, and then a shorter taxi onwards.
From Jakarta
If you're coming from Jakarta to Be Glamping it is a little over three hours drive away and will include some toll roads.
Wherever you started from, Be Glamping is within a nature park and you will need to pay 10000 IDR (£0.51) for entrance. If you’re driving in, there is an additional fee of 30,000 IDR to drive your car within the park boundaries.
Depending which side of the grounds you enter from, you may have to walk through Bi Lands Cikole or Cozy Land Adventure Park and Campsite. Be Glamping is in the quiet little valley between Bi Lands and Cozy Land. The check in desk is the log cabin next to the brook at the bottom of the small valley.
Be Glamping - What Is It Like!? What Are The Facilities?
Be Glamping is a very picturesque campsite. Nestled in a dell between evergreen trees, each of the khaki coloured teepee tents are scattered about the valley on their own raised plots. The tents are far enough apart so that you always feel you have privacy.
Each of the glamping tents come with outdoor chairs, table, gas stove, kettle, cooking utensils and an individual fire pit. Inside the tents are large and comfy with mattresses, a light, blanket, pillows and plug sockets. There is even WiFi for you to connect to. They are certainly a step above normal camping!
There is a small toilet and shower block next to the river. The toilets were always clean and the showers hot. However, you will have needed to practice your squats as the toilets are Indonesian squatty potties not Western thrones.
The best thing about Be Glamping, and the thing we came seeking from bustling Bandung, was the calm serenity of sitting out in nature. Being high on the volcano’s side, the air is cleaner and fresher and the temperature is far cooler than down in the city. It felt great just to sit out amongst the trees, with a little stream flowing below us and breathe in deep from the forest.
We paid 900000 IDR (£45.90) for two nights glamping and although this is higher than our usual accommodation budget, it was so worth it as a romantic getaway treat. If you have your own camping gear or want a different tent there are various other price options available. For us, to be out amongst nature, cuddled up under the stars with a warm fire beside us was well worth the price we paid.
Campfires
Each camping spot comes with a circular fire pit for camp fires. Down by the reception cabin they sell bundles of firewood.
If you buy a bundle, they will come, build and light the fire for you. The bundles cost 20000 IDR (£1.02) each but you will need more than one if you’re staying up late. We would say the fire pit is an essential expense, if you don’t have a campfire have you even been camping? We bought bundles both nights and it was wonderful to sit outside our tents in the cold night air with a fire crackling beside us.
Tip: Make sure you buy some marshmallows from Bandung itself to toast on the fire!
Barbecues
We are frequently led by our stomachs and our decision to stay at Be Glamping was no different. When we were looking for somewhere to glamp, the inclusion of Korean BBQ meats in the Google listing really sold us a stay at Be Glamping.
You can order from one of a few different meat sets and the site staff will bring you platters of meats, marinades and salads for you to cook on a little gas stove and grill. It is great fun to be out in the forest trying not to let your meat carbonise and wolfing down lettuce wrapped slices of marinated beef.
The staff were very helpful as there were only the two of us and all the portions on the menu were for 4+ people. The staff at the campsite split our order in two and let us have it over the two nights we were there, which turned it into a much more economical dinner! The smallest package (more than enough for two people for two days) cost 210,000 IDR (£10.71).
What Is There To Do At And Around Be Glamping?
Obviously the number one recommendation we have is to simply relax in nature! The forest is calm, green and beautiful with morning mists coiling around the trees and star filled night time skies. We had been travelling predominantly through Java’s sprawling cities by this point and although we loved Jakarta, Bogor and Bandung it was so nice to breath in the fresh forest scents and be amongst the trees.
And relax…
However, should you tire of forest bathing, there is plenty to do around Be Glamping:
The Tangkuban Parahu Crater
The steaming crater of Mount Tangkuban Parahu is around 1.5 - 2 hours walk from Be Glamping or a 17 minute drive. The massive crater was originally, along with two other local volcanoes, part of a huge volcano who’s enormous caldera broke into three parts after an eruption.
The views are meant to be amazing and if you have the time and money it is one of the area's top attractions, just check the main crater is open before you go as it can be closed if the gas build up gets too high!
The crater gets extremely busy at weekends and holidays. Tickets cost 300,000 IDR (£15.30) each for foreigners. We did not visit the crater during our visit, as we had already visited Kawah Putih and Kawah Rengganis Cibuni the day before our stay at Be Glamping.
If you want to book a tour of the crater check out GetYourGuide’s day out here.
The Cikole Orchid Forest
A short 20 minute walk from Be Glamping is the beautiful Cikole Orchid Forest. Contrary to its name it is not just a forest with some orchids, but a manicured nature park with gardens, restaurants, performance spaces, petting zoo, crazy golf and more.
We had a great day out here, so good we have written about our experience visiting. The Orchid Forest is good for an afternoon out and costs 100000 IDR (£5.10) per person to enter.
Adventure Parks, Zip Lines and ATV’s
All around Be Glamping and across the side of the volcanoes are adventure parks offering a range of adrenaline fuelling outdoor activities.
From bicycle powered tightropes, to zip lines, off-road mountain biking and more. These activities are usually inside ticketed parks but both the parks and the amusements are very cheap. We wandered around the pretty Pal 16 Cikole taking in the views down the mountain, the entrance cost 10000. IDR (£0.51) per person and the zip lines cost the same.
These parks would make a great day out for families with children. Just stick to the well maintained offerings!
Hiking Trails and Waterfalls
There are lots of hiking trails crisscrossing the volcano of various lengths and difficulties. The area around Cikole is really pretty, covered by forests and greenery. As you head back towards Lembang, the forests will give way to carpets of tea gardens.
Some of the hiking paths are apparently in worse condition than others, so make sure you have a map downloaded and don’t stray from the trail.
There are also numerous waterfalls in the area, some have ticketed entry and some will not be flowing in the dry season.
When we visited Be Glamping we were in the mood to relax so didn’t do any of the hikes on offer. For those less lazy than us we would recommend downloading the AllTrails app and checking recent reviews before setting off.
Orchid the Cat
Ok so this one may not be a permanent feature but during our time at Be Glamping we were doted on by the incredibly sweet (and heavily pregnant) black and white cat we named Orchid. She was incredibly loving and snuggly so we hope her or her offspring are still around!
Eating And Drinking At Be Glamping
Man cannot live on barbecue alone (although he is willing to try). For lunches we ventured out of our canvas sanctuary and found some lovely local spots for food.
Buruan Uyghurs
Just outside of the Bi Land entrance to Be Glamping is this gorgeous wooden restaurant. Buruan sells stylishly presented Javanese food and it is delicious. From classic main dishes like ayam bakar ( sweet grilled chicken) to awesome and unexpected snacks like keju aroma (deep fried salty sweet cheese sticks) the food was yummy and although a little pricey, well worth it.
Limasegi Dipinus Coffee Cikole
Down the road to the east of Be Glamping is this super stylish coffee shop. Overlooking beautiful manicured grounds in the shallow valley below, Limasegi Dipinus Coffee was a great place for a cup of Java. We went for some posh lattes and a sweet treat but you could of had a full meal from an extensive menu if you wanted.
Very stylish!
If you’re after coffee and heading back to Bandung, there are many great options to choose from!
Local Foods and Warungs
Be Glamping is surrounded by small stalls, both in the park and along the road, selling quick cheap meals. You can easily get a good affordable nasi or mee goreng from any of these. Be Glamping will also give you the local spots WhatsApp numbers and you can order them direct to your tent!
Tips And Tricks For Camping On Tangkuban Parahu
Weather
It is much colder up on the mountain, as in we went from shorts and t-shirts to jeans and full jumpers at night. After the fire is out, it gets pretty chilly, so make sure you pack for the colder weather and maybe ask for an extra blanket if you are prone to becoming a popsicle!
Supplies
As we have mentioned there are plenty of places to eat on the volcano's slopes. There are also stalls selling cakes, murturbak and drinks. These snacks tend to be a little more expensive so make sure you bring what you need from Bandung. As you have to get a car to the campsite any way you may as well stock up. Speaking of stocking up….
Beer
This is Indonesia, so beer is not as easy to come by as it would be in other SE Asian countries. We wanted to enjoy some fireside beers so we brought some Bintangs with us from Bandung.
From what we could tell there wasn’t anywhere walkable from Be Glamping to buy alcohol from so if you want a beer remember to bring it with you!
ATMS
We did not find a single ATM during our time on the volcano so make sure you bring enough cash for everything you may want to do.
Conclusion
We loved our time camping / glamping. It was so refreshing to get away from the city and back into the green, clean nature. We had two nights, so only one full day in the Mount Tangkuban Parahu area and could easily have spent longer. The Be Glamping campsite was excellent, from the comfy tents and cosy fire pits our stay was fantastic.
We have to give a special shout out to the brilliant staff. There was barely any English spoken by the on-site team, but they were always around and always helpful from setting up our fires, to cleaning the absolute mess we made of their barbecue trays. There was no issue with language as we had a WhatsApp number with an incredibly helpful person who would translate and send on whatever we needed to whoever needed to hear it. It all worked really smoothly, and they made sure we had a great time. If we had any problems booking taxis, buying food or anything else they were always on hand to help.
We can highly recommend Be Glamping - Book your stay here!
We loved our time glamping, after a couple of weeks in Java’s sprawling cities it was amazing to sit fireside, with quiet music playing whilst stroking our new feline friend in our beautiful woodland haven.
There’s something special about waking up under canvas!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Volcanic Adventures in South Bandung
Come with us for a day on the back of a bike as we explore the volcanoes to the south of the West Javan capital of Bandung. We start the day by escaping Bandung’s busy traffic and head out to the beautiful crater and sulphur lake of Kawah Putih. From there we explore the tea fields of Ciwidey, before taking a mud bath and a dip in the hot springs of Kawah Rengganis. Read on to hear all about the fantastic tour we took and how to do this yourself!
Surrounded by tall volcanoes is the capital of West Java, the metropolis of Bandung. No trip to this sprawling Indonesian city would be complete without a visit to one of its smouldering neighbours. What follows is our story of the day we spent exploring the volcanic peaks south of Bandung.
We were staying at the D&D Backpackers Guesthouse and hostel, and every day they run a back of the bike trip, showcasing the best of south Bandung. The tour would begin in the early hours of the morning and would take in the white crater of Kawah Putih, the green tea fields of Ciwidey before moving onto the volcanic springs at Kawah Rengganis.
On paper this sounded like a great day out, in reality it turned out to be much, much more!
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The Tour Begins
Up with the sun, we made our way downstairs with bleary eyes and were straightaway handed a box of breakfast treats. One strong coffee and a few pastries later and we were ready to go.
There were 9 of us on the tour and each of us were assigned a driver and a scooter for the day. We were told we could ask the driver to stop whenever we wanted; for toilet breaks, photo opportunities or anything else. After meeting our drivers, we hopped onto the back of the bikes and with the roar of scooter engines we rode out through the hostel gates.
There’s nothing better than being on the back of a motorbike. Weaving through the city's busy early morning traffic, skimming past street side market stalls all the while with the wind tickling your ears and your arms no less than a foot from traffic!
Leaving the urban sprawl of Bandung behind we burst out into the open green landscapes of the countryside. We biked our way through farmlands and villages, and up towards the volcanic crater of Kawah Putih.
Kawah Putih / The White Crater
Kawah Putih or The White Crater as it’s more commonly known, is 50 km drive away from the centre of Bandung city. Driving to the crater from the city takes around two hours. If you weren’t visiting the crater with an organised tour, you could easily book a driver or hire a car from Bandung.
As we pulled into the car park for the White Crater, we got our tickets (see later) and hopped onto a shuttle bus that would take us up to the crater.
We were dropped off at the top of the Kawah Putih but, instead of heading with everyone else into the main entrance, we headed off to the left. Budi, our tour leader, had insider knowledge and could take us where the crowds wouldn’t go.
A brief, steep walk later and we emerged out into some amazing tea fields. The fields stretched away as far as the eye could see. We paused for some selfies before taking a small path onwards. The path was worryingly labelled “no entry, area forbidden” but we were reassured that we were in expert hands, and that this was actually the way to the “secret viewpoint”. Trusting in our guide, we wound our way through the woodland and up the side of the volcano. We came out into the sunlight and burst out onto an incredible vista of the Kawah Putih. It was suddenly quite obvious why it is called The White Crater.
Kawah Putih is a vast sulphurous lake, ringed with burned out trees, steaming geysers and lush vegetation. It’s an incredible sight, full of all the contrasts you’d imagine from a volcanic landscape. The vibrant greens of the jungle flow up against the black and yellow charred remains of previous eruptions, whilst below the eerie chemical blue of the sulphur lake, reminds you, that although beautiful, this was a landscape full of inherent danger.
We made our way across the crater rim, taking in various views of the White Crater. Up here, there was just our group and the occasional intrepid hiker, but we could see, down in the crater below, the weekend crowds were out in full force. We were very glad to have Budi lead us, and showing us the amazing top down views.
If you want to see the crater from above, you can do this without walking through the jungle and passing through forbidden areas. Just look for signs directing you to the Kawah Putih Lookout Point (location), this is the way we came back down.
Down in the crater itself we made our way to the waters edge at the sulphur lake. All around us the mud was stained white and yellow, and crunched beneath our feet. If it wasn't for the ever present eggy smell and the steaming geysers, the white and yellow shore and blue lake looked like a tropical beach! We did not swim…
It may look inviting but…
The Kawah Putih crater was much busier than the rim but had lots of walkways, selfie spots, and secluded places so you didn't feel overcrowded. From the lakeside, down low, you really could appreciate the scale of the crater, it was hard to grasp the size when you were above it!
We came back down the volcano to the car park and stopped for a tasty lunch.
We had spicy Ayam Goreng and were given some delicious crunchy bala bala (think Indonesian tempura) to try on the side. After lunch Budi gave us some of the locally grown strawberries that thrive in the volcanic soil, they were so sweet and lovely!
Refuelled and recharged it was back on the bike and on to our next stop.
Visiting Kawah Putih - Essential Information
What is the entrance fee for Kawah Putih?
The ticket price for parking, shuttle bus and entrance to the crater costs 110,000 IDR per person (£6.76 or $8.19).
If you’re visiting the crater with the D&D tour, this entrance fee is included in the cost of the tour.
How to get to Kawah Putih ?
Kawah Putih is located here.
You will need motorised transport. There are no direct buses so you will either need to hire a driver, book a tour or hire a bike / car for yourself. The roads to the crater are not bad by Indonesian standards but we would recommend only the confident try to drive in Bandung!
From Bandung: the crater lies around 2 hours or 50km outside the city.
From Jakarta: If you are coming from the capital to Kawah Putih it is a 3.5 hour drive (including some toll roads) and around 190km.
How long do you need to spend at Kawah Putih?
If you want to get the amazing views and visit the crater then we would allow at least two hours.
The trail up is not too long (no matter which route you take) but is very steep! It is 100% worth going up to the rim and getting the incredible views. If you go at the weekend allow a little extra time for the queues and crowds.
Is Kawah Putih dangerous?
Short answer: No.
Longer answer: Not … really - The crater is closely monitored and would be closed if any dangerous activity was discovered. The sulphur fumes in the White Crater are smelly but not dangerous to breath. It is not like other volcanoes where you should carry gas masks! The crater is perfectly safe, just stick to the paths, do not go too close to the edge when up at the top and, under no circumstances, go for a swim in the lake!
Facilities at Kawah Putih
There are plenty of toilets, both at the top and in the bottom car park. There are small shops and restaurants throughout the site selling refreshments, trinkets and food. In the car park there are tons of hawkers selling local produce such as strawberries and tea.
Tea Fields of Ciwidey
After another stunning drive down from Kawah Putih we entered the tea fields of Ciwidey. We had seen some earlier in the day but nothing on the same scale. The emerald green fields, with their spiralling paths and flat-topped hedgerows carpeted the landscape in swirling patterns. We parked our bikes and set off into the green tea gardens.
Making our way between the tea bushes we wandered up and onto a promontory rock jutting above the fields, it was time for some photographs! We snapped away whilst Budi explained the tea growing and harvesting process. We filled our memory cards and headed back to our bikes.
It was whilst in the tea fields we encountered one of our favourite aspects of road life in Indonesia - the coaches. In Indonesia the coach drivers have taken it upon themselves to entertain the people they drive past. The buses are wildly decorated with lights and a sea of dashboard ornaments. But what really sets them apart are their horns. A normal horn is two-toned, it maybe can play 3 seconds of melody if it is really fancy. Indonesian buses can play a freaking sonata! The buses charge down the curved roads playing half of Beethoven's Fifth whilst the village children dance away or chase after them on bikes. This is especially fun to watch when it is a chain of coaches, each with their own signature tune. As we made our way back through the fields, a string of coaches passed by, each one honking away and trailed with a stream of excited children.
Back on the bikes, it was time to drive to our final stop.
Visiting The Tea Fields Of Ciwedy - Essential Information
How to get to the tea fields?
Located a short drive from Kawah Putih crater, tea fields line both sides of the road. The tea field we stopped at had no formal “viewing platform”, we just pulled over in a layby and headed into the field. If you wanted a more curated experience, there were plenty of tea gardens with car parks and cafes.
The tea plantations can be found all over the sides of Mount Patuha and line the road between Kawah Putih and Kawah Rengganis Cibuni.
Again it is a 2 hour drive from Bandung, or a 3.5 hour drive from Jakarta.
Kawah Rengganis Cibuni / the Rengganis Crater and Suspension Bridge
After a very scenic drive, through the tea fields and villages, we pulled into the car park for Kawah Rengganis. We were here to visit the hot springs, but first we had to cross the enormous suspension bridge spanning two sides of the valley.
This is one of the longest suspension bridges in south east Asia, spanning over 350 metres, and hanging 70 metres above the jungle floor below. It is not for those who don’t like heights! As we began to cross the gently swaying bridge, the mist from the valley and smoke from the crater mingled to carpet the valley and shroud the ends of the bridge.
The bridge serves to connect visitors with the Rengganis Crater and its hot springs. But, before we could enjoy a hot soak, Budi and his team had another “treat” for us. Veering off the path, we headed into the jungle, wading through fast flowing streams, and clambering over rocks, until we found ourselves at the “sacred waterfall”. Budi instructed us to dunk ourselves three times in the cold water of the plunge pool under the waterfall. The shock of going from the tropical humid heat into ice cold water, was extreme, but very refreshing. We don’t know if all tours go here, or if this was just a perk of going with D&D.
Appropriately cleansed by the sacred waterfall, it was time for a mud bath. Standing next to bubbling mud pits, we slathered on volcanic mud, covering ourselves from head to toe. Looking a bit like Morph, we shuffled, mud cracking as it dried, over to the volcanic “showers”. The “showers” were channels and pipes coming out of the rocks, funnelling the hot volcanic water. Ducking into the showers we de-mudded ourselves and headed for the hot springs.
They came from the swamps…
There are three hot spring baths at Kawah Rengganis, one warm, one medium and one hot. Choosing the hottest first, we sank into the volcanic water. It was nearly too hot to handle, but after a moment you could just feel your muscles relax. After the hot bath, we moved between the other baths until we resembled raisins.
Budi had one final surprise for us at the crater. Instead of climbing back up the stairs as we presumed we would, he pointed to a zip line, which hung across the canyon. This was no ordinary zip line, this was the “Sultan’s Basket”.
OK, zip line may be misleading, it was more like a chair lift or gondola across the valley, but instead of a cabin there appeared to be garden furniture attached to the line! We strapped ourselves into wicker chairs and were trundled out over the abyss. Below us and around us hot springs and sulphur vents steamed into the early evening air, whilst the volcano towered above us and the jungle spread out all around us. It was an amazing, if bizarre ride!
Crossing back along the suspension bridge, as the sun began to set, we snapped some final photos and had a cup of tea whilst watching the sun dip down from the cafe.
As evening set in, we hopped back on our bikes and rode off back towards the lights of the big city.
Kawah Rengganis Cibuni / the Rengganis Crater and Suspension Bridge Essential Information for Visiting
What is the entrance fee / ticket price for Kawah Rengganis Cibuni?
One ticket cost 100,000 IDR (£5.20 or $6.40) for the full package. This includes entry, the suspension bridge, hot springs and “Sultan’s Basket” as well as a free cup of tea. If you’re visiting the crater with the D&D tour, this entrance fee is included in the cost.
How long do I need at Kawah Rengganis?
Depends how pruney you want to get in the hot springs! We would recommend at least two hours to fully appreciate the beauty, bridge, basket and hot springs.
How to get to Rengganis Crater?
You will need your own transport, or a driver to get you to Kawah Rengganis. You can find it on a map here.
From Bandung it’s just over 2 hour drive away and from Jakarta it is a 3.5 to 4 hour drive away depending on traffic.
What should I wear at Kawah Rengganis?
Make sure you bring swimwear. There are basic changing rooms for you to change and you can leave your stuff at the booth next to the hot springs.
Make sure you take off any jewellery as the sulphur can corrode it!
If you’re going with a big group, this next point is less important but, if you’re by yourself, remember that this is Indonesia - You may get some '“looks” bathing in just a bikini.
What facilities are there at Kawah Rengganis?
As we’ve mentioned there are basic changing rooms at the hot springs.
Toilets are available throughout the park and next to the restaurant.
There is a restaurant on site as well as smaller food stalls in the car park.
Back To Bandung
Our day ended by our motorbike troop pulling into an unassuming warung just outside of Bandung. If you’ve not read our previous article about dining at a warung, then you’re in for a treat. Hands down, some of the best food you’ll encounter in the whole of Indonesia can be found in these down to earth eateries. We dined on rice, beef rendang, chicken curry, sambal and egg. It was delicious! Budi also brought us what may be the most unhealthy dessert in the world, start with cake, add butter, chocolate and cheese and you’re nearly there!
Leaving the warung with our bellies full, it was time for the last drive of the night. Twisting and turning like a pinball through the busy Saturday night traffic in downtown Bandung, we eventually turned off the main highroad and back down into the suburban side streets.
Arriving back at the hostel, we cracked open beers with our fellow travellers, clinked our bottles and toasted to an awesome day!
General Questions About Scooters and the D&D South Bandung Tour
How much does the tour cost?
The tour costs 650,000 IDR (£33.80 or $40.95).
This price is for the scooter, driver and all entrance fees as well as including breakfast, a couple of small snacks and some tea. The price does not include lunch, dinner or any other snacks.
How long is the tour?
The tour lasts all day. We set off around 7am and weren’t back to the hostel until a little past 8pm.
Can I do this tour if I'm not staying at D&D?
Yes, just contact Budi at D&D Backpackers or head there and book in person.
You can also book various tours that take in the same highlights of south Bandung via Get Your Guide:
Can I do this tour if I cannot ride a bike or scooter?
Absolutely. Every person has their own driver and scooter and you are provided with a helmet. The easy rider tour was fantastic as it freed us up to just sit back and appreciate the amazing scenery. We would not have like to try driving through Bandung ourselves.
I’ve not sat on the back of a scooter before, what can I expect?
You sit close to the driver and you can hold onto their waist, shoulders or the handles behind you on the bike.
Don't be disconcerted if they ask you to sit closer to them, it's much easier for the driver to balance the bike that way.
Once you set off you'll quickly settle into it and see there's nothing to worry about. Try not to squirm around too much, just sit, relax and take in the amazing scenery.
How to get to Bandung?
Getting to the capital of West Java is easy - It is accessible by road, rail and air.
You can book bus or train tickets from pretty much anywhere in Java, by going to the stations or you can book in advance online via 12GO.
How to book a stay / tour?
If you’d like to experience this trip, why not book a stay at D&D Backpackers Guesthouse?
This simple and basic hostel offers both private and dorm rooms, with en-suite bathrooms and a common area outside.
The hostel is located in the north of Bandung in a quiet suburban street. As it’s a little way out of town, you will need to use taxis to get into the centre, or you can ask the staff to ferry you wherever you need to go. For those who can drive, there are also scooters available to rent during your stay.
The back of the bike tour runs everyday, just ask when you check in for more details.
To book your stay at D&D Backpackers Guesthouse click here.
Accommodation in Bandung
If you’re looking for a little more luxury than a hostel, check out the map below for all of Bandung's accommodation choices.
If you're already in Bandung make sure you check out our other guides to the Sudirman Street Day and Night Market and where to find the best coffee in the city.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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A Cup of Java in Java - Bandung’s Best Coffee Shops
Coffee is essential to the proper function of modern life. In the West Javan capital of Bandung you are spoiled for choice when it comes to good coffee. Check out our guide for the best cups of Java in Java!
If you ask anyone to think of the word Java, we can guarantee there will be three things that will immediately spring to mind:
Computer script
The large Indonesian island
Coffee
As we’re more literate in caffeine than coding, this article is about numbers 2 and 3. We’ve been travelling west to east through Java whilst drinking an awful lot of… Java!
The coffee scene across the island of Java is huge, from street side stalls selling cheap and delicious kopi susu (literally coffee and milk) to the high end, late night coffee bars that stay open until the early hours, offering everything from lattes to coffee mocktails. It seems that coffee is available at whatever time of day, and the capital city of West Java, Bandung is no exception.
What Is The History Of Java Coffee?
Coffee or rather coffee seedlings were first introduced to the island of Java by the Dutch in the 17th Century. After stealing a few plants from their Arabian traders, the Dutch brought the seeds to Indonesia, planting seeds in Java, Sumatra and Bali. The coffee seedlings flourished in the Indonesian soil, and the Dutch quickly began exporting the coffee to Europe. The imported coffee was a huge success, and became extremely popular throughout Europe, with it being referred to as ‘Java’ thanks to the name imprinted on the coffee imports.
Today, Indonesia is no longer the world's largest producer of coffee, but the island of Java is still synonymous with the good brown stuff.
Read on to find out which coffee shops we enjoyed a good ‘cup of java’ in the city of Bandung.
Where to drink the best coffee in Bandung?
Kurokoffee (Location)
Set way out in the northern suburbs, close to the Universitas Katolik Parahyangan, Kurokoffee is an absolute gem. Set in a beautifully converted house and garden, this coffee shop sprawls out across the open plan ground floor, first floor terrace and stylish back garden.
Stylish will be a word that applies for the whole of this coffee shop.
Loosely Japanese themed with many Studio Ghibli props and prints scattered throughout, this is an achingly cool space, popular with the local students and young professionals. The long tables are crowded with groups of friends, laptops, cameras and other hallmarks of the new nomadic professional.
The large garden is full of tables, trees with low hanging leaves and artfully placed stepping stones. There is also a stage area and we frequently encountered live jazz music in the afternoons.
The coffee here is fantastic. Never too sweet, or too bitter, it is the perfect caffeinated middle ground. Both the iced latte and the iced long black were amazing drinks.
Kurokoffee also serves really excellent food. From Indonesian favourites through to Japanese, Korean and Thai bowls. It is obviously more expensive than street food, but nothing too extravagant. The menu here will set you back between 50k IDR and 60k IDR with coffees running at 25k IDR to 35 k IDR.
Dr Ells Coffee Otista (Location)
Growing up with the nickname “Ells'' by friends and family, and seeing Dr Ells Coffee Otista named on Google Maps, Ellie has no choice but to pay this coffee shop a visit.
Dr Ells is located on Jalan Otto Iskandar Dinata in the centre of Bandung, and is only a short walk from Bandung Railway Station, Pasar Baru Shopping Mall and the popular street food market of Sudirman Street . Unlike its old-school fabric store neighbours on the street, this small coffee shop offers a cool and contemporary vibe, with outdoor seating and a large glass window/door stretching across the whole front of the store. Inside, the interior of Dr Ells is sleek and modern, with white tiled walls contrasting with dark and light wooden furniture.
Dr Ells offers all the standard coffee offerings from iced lattes to flat whites as well as Manja Coffee (chocolate), Genit (mocha) and Cinta (matcha).
Both times we visited, we opted for our usual order of two iced lattes and were not disappointed. The coffee was perfectly strong and not too sweet, with a rich and nutty flavour. The iced lattes were even better when paired with a slice of their chocolate brownie!
Jazz Coffee, Sudirman Market (Location)
Set within the Sudirman Market food court, this little coffee shop is perfect for a pre or post dinner pick me up whilst snacking your way through the food market. Jazz Coffee certainly lives up to its name with jazz playing through an old record player, LPs decorating the counters and shelving units, and the black and orange walls paired with the warm hanging lights to give a cosy atmosphere. Stepping into the coffee shop feels as though you’ve stepped into a Jazz lounge.
Jazz Coffee serves all your favourite coffees, both hot and cold as well as matcha, chocolate drinks and a selection of flavoured teas. If you’re dining in Sudirman Market, we can highly recommend grabbing a brew!
Tamoe Coffee and Tea (Location)
This coffee shop is located in central Bandung and offers the usual coffee affair from Americanos to Cappuccinos. The coffee shop is extremely stylish, with a modern aesthetic of white walls and brick interior contrasting with dark grey concrete and soft fairy lights. There is seating both indoors and outdoors.
We would recommend pairing a visit to Tamoe Coffee and Tea with a visit to the restaurant Bakmie Karet (location) next door which serves excellent noodles with pork and chicken topped with meatballs and fried wontons.
Coffee Toffee (Location)
This coffee chain has two locations within the city of Bandung. One to the north which we visited, and one closer to the centre.
Serving all the coffee favourites, we opted for two iced lattes. What we received however can only be described as giant sized iced coffee served in two large glass stein style tumblers. The coffee was delicious and due to the size kept us powered up for the rest of the afternoon's activities.
If you’re in Bandung, we’d recommend visiting the Coffee Toffee we visited as it's a great place for a “pick me up” after visiting the Babakan Siliwangi City Forest (location).
This small park has a circular route made up of raised walkways that wind their way through the forest. Covered by the canopy of the trees, this park is a perfect place to escape the intense tropical heat.
You could even visit Coffee Toffee beforehand and get a takeaway coffee and food to bring with you to the park.
Belikopi (Location)
This is another chain located in Bandung, but also one we continued to seek out whilst travelling through Java. Belikopi serves excellent coffee at extremely affordable prices, which is ideal if you’re on a backpacking budget like us. Cheap, delicious, caffeinated and in our case iced, Belikopi relieved us on multiple occasions.
We were paying 10000 IDR (£0.52 or $0.64) for one iced latte.
We’d recommend giving them a Google if you’re backpacking and a coffee lover. They also have regular coffee promotions such as buy one get one free, or buy multiple to get a discount. Just take a look at the posters advertised on the cafe walls. We stumbled upon Belikopi throughout our Javanese adventures and they’ve been our “go to” for low cost caffeine fixes.
Final Thoughts
Wherever you are staying in Bandung, you’ll never be far from a coffee shop. From the high end, to the street stall, whatever your budget, you’ll easily find the perfect caffeine fix within the city!
Let us know if you visit any of these coffee shops in the comments below.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
If you’re found this blog helpful, entertaining or you just fancy supporting us, please click the button below!
If you’ve enjoyed reading this article, why not save the pin below?
If you’re looking for other things to do whilst in Bandung, check out our other articles!
Sudirman Street Food Market - A Foodie Oasis in Bandung
Indonesia is heaven for food lovers and the capital city of West Java, of Bandung, is no exception. Read our guide to eating and drinking at the excellent and eclectic Sudirman Street Food Market. No matter what your food cravings may be, the Sudirman market can probably satisfy you! Offering everything from Indonesian classic to worldwide fusion food, the market has it all!
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
The West Javan capital city of Bandung is a total melting pot of architecture, culture, art and food. This sprawling metropolis is a giant mixing bowl of old and new, Sundanese and Javanese, classic and modern. Old colonial buildings sit next door to glass fronted office blocks, fresh markets sprawl across the street in front of enormous air conditioned shopping malls, gridlocked concrete flyovers tower over pretty, quiet tree lined streets. Bandung is a unique blend of all the highs and lows of Indonesia, and this is nowhere more apparent than in its thriving food scene!
Food is available everywhere in Bandung and has everything you could possibly ever want to eat. From street side offerings to Michelin guide restaurants and everything in between, Bandung is a city to be hungry in!
If you’ve been following along with our journey, or have seen our posts and stories on our Instagram you’ll know by now, that we absolutely love our food and one of our favourite ways to really get to know a city is via its culinary offerings. On the streets of Istanbul we dove head first and tried all the street food it had to offer, had an amazing night trying lots of bizzare barbecue meats with the locals in Ho Chi Minh City and set ourselves a £5 eating challenge in Hat Yai’s Florida Night Market in Thailand. Wherever we are, we always like to eat.
We love to try everything we can, and eating at a market is one of our favourite ways to dine. This is where we would like to introduce you to Bandung’s Sudirman Street Day and Night Market.
What is the Sudirman Street Day and Night Market?
The Sudirman Street Day and Night Market is a large covered food court that’s chock full of stalls, beverage sellers and restaurants (some fixed and some on wheels) offering cuisines from across the world. From Indonesian favourites such as satay and mie goreng, to Korean fried cheese sticks and Japanese sushi, there’s something for everyone to eat at the market. There is even a bar selling alcohol which we will go into in more detail later.
What to expect at Sudirman Street Day and Night Market - Our Experience
Stepping out of our Grab taxi, we knew we had arrived in Bandung’s version of a foodie heaven! Smoke from charcoal barbeques filled the air, the smell of roasting meats wafted through our noses and the distinct clang of woks frying noodles could be heard all around. Hungry, and being led by our senses, we headed into the market, excited to try everything the food court had to offer.
Before getting settled at one of the empty tables, we decided to do a quick tour of the market to see what we were letting ourselves in for. This walking orbit is now an unspoken ritual for us in any hawker centre, food court or night market. We like to circle round, possibly more than once, just to make sure we’ve seen everything that’s on offer. There was so much choice at Sudirman it was almost hard for us to take it all in. For some, when there’s an overwhelming choice it can become a bit of a burden, choice paralysis is real! For us, however, the scale of the market did not lead to paralysis but to the instant realisation that there was too much food for one sitting, we would have to visit a few times! We were hungry and the choices seemed almost endless, it was time to get our munch on.
Over the next week, we visited the market almost everyday and dined on some fantastic food. From perfectly barbecued sate of chicken, beef and pork sticks, to the cheapest (most delicious) crab you can imagine (£1.80 for a whole crab in black pepper sauce!). We ate too many dishes to go into any detail so here is a quick list of things we enjoyed at the market:
Satay - Both chicken and beef. They are barbecued then and there in front of you!
Crab - Unbelievably cheap and yummy.
Kuay Teow - Ellie's favourite noodles, wok charred and delicious.
Mie Goreng - You cannot go wrong in Indonesia with fried noodles!
Chicken Wings - The Korean stall provided excellent beer accompaniments.
Pork and Rice - Slightly rarer in Indonesia, we had been craving a porky platter and this did not disappoint.
Coconut Milkshake - Super refreshing.
Wontons and Dumplings - Always one of our favourites, crunchy wontons and succulent dumplings are a must order anytime we see them.
Iced Coffee - You are never far from a good cup of Java in Java.
Beer - Forgive us we are British.
For those who like an iced cold beer with their street side dining experience, there is a bar come off-licence that sells all the popular Indonesian beers from Bintang, Prost and Singaraja as well as international beers of Carlsberg, Heinekin and Corona. The off-licence shop also sold arak as well as spirits of every kind and even some expensive bottles of wine!
A word to the wise - the bar/off-licence has tables outside, snag one of these and you can use it as a base to order any of your food from - order at any stall and they will deliver to your table.
Where is the Sudirman Street Day and Night Market?
Sudirman Street Day and Night Market is located in the centre of Bandung on Jalan Jend. Sudirman (location). The market stretches the full length between Jalan Jend. Sudirman and Jalan Cibadak with entrances on both streets.
The market is a 12 minute walk away (or 10 minute drive) from Bandung Railway station, with the purple Cisitu Tegalega bus route (running every 10 minutes from early morning to 9pm) serving both the train station and market.
How to reach the Sudirman Street Market?
If you’re staying in the Centre of Bandung, the market is within easy walking distance of most of downtown central Bandung. However, if you’d prefer to get there by wheels there are lots of options.
Both the ride hailing apps of Grab and GoJek work within the city, and a ride should be cheap and quick to find.
If you’d prefer to arrive by public transport, there is a bus stop a 2 minute walk (170m) from the market. With the purple bus route of Cisitu Tegalega running every 10 minutes and the blue bus routes of Koridor 2 and Koridor 5 running every 20 to 25 minutes.
What time does the Sudirman Street Market Open?
The food court is open everyday from 10am (11am on Saturdays) to 11pm in the evenings.
However, each food vendor within the market has their own opening times, so be aware that not every stall in the market may be open when you visit.
Quite a few of the stalls have their own Google Map listings as well as Instagram/Facebook pages so if there’s somewhere specific you’d like to dine at, maybe check in advance.
Is there an entrance fee?
There is no entrance fee to enter the market. The only cost to you, will be whatever you decide to eat and drink!
The market is slightly more expensive than other street food stalls around the city, but given the location and convenience, we’d say it's definitely worth the slightly higher price.
What should I eat at the Sudirman Street Market?
This is an easy question, everything! We stayed in Bandung for over a week and dined at the market almost every night and did not once have a bad meal. There is so much to choose from, we don’t think you could ever get bored.
If you’re dining as a couple, we’d recommend sending each other off to surprise the other with another plate. It is a great way to try more of what the market has to offer, and it is exciting not to know what’s being delivered to your table!
Are there toilets at the Sudirman Street Day and Night Market?
Yes there are.
You need to pay 2000 IDR to enter, but you are given toilet paper after payment. When we visited the toilets were always very clean, even at the end of a busy Saturday night.
Where should I stay in Bandung, is there accommodation close to the market?
There are lots of accommodation choices in Bandung from hostels and guesthouses to high end hotels. We would recommend staying in the centre of Bandung so that you’re within walking distance of the night market.
Check out our handy map below to see what accommodation is on offer within Bandung:
Final Thoughts
The Sudirman Street Day and Night market is the perfect place to spend an evening in Bandung.
A well fed Ellie is a happy Ellie!
Offering a little bit of everything, it’s a one stop food court that will cater to everyone's tastes. For those who are unsure about ordering from street side stalls or haven’t yet sampled the amazing rice and curries from warung joints, the Sudirman Street market takes all the worry away. The vast majority of stalls had menus in English, and even if they didn’t, we found the age old trick of pointing and smiling got us by.
If you’re staying in Bandung, we’d recommend spending at least one night here as we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves, and even if you’re the fussiest of eaters we’re sure there would be something for you to eat!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Warungs - A Guide to Eating Cheaply in Indonesia
Warungs provide some of the best food for the best value in Indonesia, so why do so many travellers avoid them? Read our article on why you should eat at your local warung as well as tips and tricks to overcome restaurant anxiety and ordering stress!
By this point in our travels, it’s no secret that we adore rice and curry. From Sri Lanka to Thailand, Vietnam to Malaysia, rice and curry has been our “go to” for a cheap, hearty and delicious meal. A dish of rice and curry means you get to have lots of different things on one budget friendly plate, what’s not to love?
Indonesia has what may be the very best rice and curry we’ve encountered so far. The Padang Style Warungs especially have the most amazing selection of curries, vegetables, fried chicken, fish and sambal.
We have met many travellers on the road, who have been too scared to enter these local restaurants, and we totally get it. At the start of our travels we were awkward and fearful, we would dawdle outside the entrance, looking in and unsure how you even ordered. Do you sit down? Do you just grab a plate? How do you pay? Will we make a massive fool of ourselves by not knowing any of the above? Like most anxious thoughts, this is all rubbish! Don’t give in, and read on. This guide will help you to put these fears to rest and hopefully inspire you to sample some of the best food we’ve eaten in Indonesia!
What is a Warung?
First things first, what are we even talking about here?
Warungs, waroeng, wartek or warteg - are all basically the same thing.
Warungs are small scale shops, stalls, kiosks or restaurants, and is a blanket term for any little business. In most scenarios, warungs will usually refer to an eatery of some sort. Warungs are unfussy, local joints and can be found in any village, town or city in Indonesia.
Rice and curry warungs can be easily spotted by the buffet style set up. Sometimes it’s out and self service, sometimes it's behind a counter, either way it will be delicious. A special mention has to be made to Padang Style Warungs easily identifiable by their stacks of plates in the brightly coloured window, showcasing all the foods on offer.
How to order in a Warung?
This will change slightly depending on the style of the warung and what it’s serving. If it’s a noodle joint, there will usually be a menu and someone will either take your order after sitting, or you will be asked to write down what you want.
Choices, delicious choices!
If it’s buffet style with the food behind a counter, just walk up and point to the various dishes you want.
If the buffet is out in the open, grab a plate and rice from the nearby rice cooker and fill your plate to your heart's content. Just remember what you have taken as you are charged by the dish.
In some Padang restaurants you will be ushered to a table and many plates from the buffet will be brought to your table. You will then serve yourself and only be charged from the plates you have taken from.
What to eat at a Warung?
Some warungs are specialised in one or two dishes e.g. mie pangsit (wonton noodles) but others like the rice and curry restaurants serve a cornucopia of curries!
Honestly, we have eaten our way through many of these curry joints and so far have not picked a dud dish. We personally recommend getting a piece of fried chicken, egg in sambal (either fried or hard boiled) along with jackfruit curry, dark greens and spoonfuls of coconutty sauce from any of the other good looking curries. Make sure you take a good helping of the spicy sambals on offer and, if it's available, do not miss the aubergine curries!
For those who aren’t meat eaters, there is always fried fish, some form of fish curry and plenty of vegetable offerings available too.
At your table there will probably be a jar of crispy things. These are called Keropok and go great with curries! You should dip them in or crumble them on top of your plate! They do cost extra so make sure you tell the cashier if you eat any. Also, these crispy Keropok come in a few flavours, look at the packet or give them a sniff so you do not unexpectedly add fish to your chicken…unless you are into that of course!
After sitting down, you’ll almost certainly be asked what drink you would like. All warungs will have tea both iced or hot, waters and some soft drinks. Just let them know what you want and they will bring it to you. It is totally fine if you don’t want anything.
How do you pay for your meal at a Warung?
When you’re done with your meal, make your way to the cashier to settle your bill. If it was a buffet style warung, you may have to point out which dishes you took, proteins will cost a little more than vegetables and fish a little more than that. However, one defining feature of warungs is that they are extremely cheap! One of our best meals on the massive island of Java was an enormous warung buffet that cost us 17,000 IDR each (£0.90 or $1.09) which also included an iced tea! We did not hold back on this plate and both had a piece of fried chicken, an egg and plenty of curries.
If you’re in a very touristy area and worried about over charging, double check the price before piling on your plate.
When you come to pay, we’d recommend getting your calculator up on your mobile and asking the cashier to enter the price. This gets around any language barriers as neither you nor the cashier may know the words for fifty thousand and forty six in each other's language.
Are Warungs safe to eat at?
Sorry, we know this is always a source of worry when travelling, but it is a silly question! Repeat after us: Restaurants Do Not Stay In Business By Poisoning People!
The warung your umming and arring over is almost certainly a family run establishment that has been serving the local community for years. The chefs, owner and servers take pride in the food and do not want to make anyone ill. If you start feeling anxious, just try and question why you are worried here and not at home? Most truthful answers to this question will be prejudice, or rooted in other travel worries, not reality.
We have munched our way for two months across the whole of Java, eating in warungs that ranged from large white tiled slick operations to tiny shacks on the road side and never once have we been made ill by the food. So yes the warung should be safe!
Conclusion
We always try to eat as local as possible and Indonesia makes this so easy. Super affordable and incredibly delicious, the rice and curry selections change everyday and we could never get tired of them.
If you’re worried about making a fool of yourself, or are holding back from entering due to unspecified anxiety, don’t. The people of Indonesia are some of the warmest, most friendly and helpful people we’ve ever met and there is no judgement or embarrassment if mistakes are made. You're probably a few thousand miles from home and everyone will forgive you for not knowing exactly how it all works. It took a little while into our great adventure to fully give up on the “performance anxiety” of entering, ordering and eating at truly local places but it has made our travel experiences so much better and more delicious. It can be hard the first time but as they say, it only gets easier and the best time to start is now!
Our only advice is get in there and enjoy. Don’t judge a warung by its wonky tables!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Kawah Ratu - A Volcanic Day Out From Bogor Or Jakarta
South of Jakarta and just outside the city of Bogor lies the towering volcano of Mount Salak and the crater of Kawah Ratu. Read all about our experience, trekking up the volcano to its steaming sulphurous crater as well as bathing in hot springs and swimming in a secret waterfall. This day trip can be done from Jakarta or Bogor and is one not to be missed!
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As you look up through the haze of Bogor you can distinctly see the outline of towering volcanoes. These volcanic peaks surround the city and make for a great green escape from suburban Bogor and the massive urban sprawl of Jakarta.
We were staying at the Rion Bogor Hostel and after a couple of days exploring all that Bogor had to offer we were eager to get out into nature. Advertised on the front desk was a “volcano and jungle hike”. This seemed like exactly what we were looking for, a chance to stretch our legs, escape from the traffic and see our first Indonesian volcano up close. We booked immediately.
Organised through WhatsApp by the extremely helpful Ridwan (contact us if you’d like an introduction), a full itinerary was prepared. The following morning, we were picked up from outside our hostel in Bogor (they offer the same tour if you’re staying in Jakarta) by our driver Jacky, and were driven out of town and up into the green slopes of Mount Salak.
The drive out of town was beautiful. As soon as we escaped the busy Bogor streets, we were in another world. Small villages, stepped rice paddies, farms and friendly waving children were everywhere. With the open skies and overwhelming greenery, it was a world away from the metropolitan Indonesia we had experienced so far.
Arriving at the trailhead, we were introduced to our guide Mr Dudi and set off up a stone path into the jungle. Just past the trailhead there is a little construction going on, but this is quickly left behind as the jungle envelopes you. Mr Dudi stopped to show us plants that the local villagers used to repel mosquitos, as well as plants that could be used as food and even disinfectants. A short way into the walk, we came off the main trail and took a route through the thick bushes and into the heart of the jungle.
Butterflies wheeled all around, and we were surrounded by enormous ferns, colourful flowers and trailing vines, all under a towering canopy. The only sounds we could hear were cicadas and birdsong.
It was around this time where our noses began to tickle. There was a distinct smell of egg in the air and this time it wasn’t due to John’s breakfast. As we rounded the corner on our forest trail, we were suddenly confronted with what can only be described as a dead zone. A gash had been taken out of the forest, on either side there were lush green trees, but in the centre a scar of yellow and red earth cut through the greenery. In the middle of the destroyed valley, flowed a sulphuric stream, hot and smelly, and surrounded by the remnants of dead trees. If we ever needed a reminder that we were standing on the edge of a volcano, this was it. We were getting close to the crater.
A very short walk later and we emerged into an utterly alien landscape. We had arrived at the crater of Kawah Ratu. Stretching away in all directions grey, yellow stone smoked with sulphuric gases. Bright blue pools, bubbled and spat steam, whilst the air was thick with the eggy smell of sulphur. There were barely any living plants here, only blackened stumps and the skeletons of trees. It was in this strange landscape that we decided to have a bath!
The bright turquoise pools vary massively in temperature, you need a guide to tell you which ones will not boil you. We stripped off into our swimming gear and, holding our noses, waded in for a paddle. The pools were heavenly. Even with the smell (which you quickly got used to), the warmth permeated every cell of our bodies and you could feel ourselves relaxing and unlocking. We could have spent a full day lounging in these pools, indeed, in the past we have spent a lot of time lounging in the hot baths of Budapest. We don’t know the science and maybe it's just psychosomatic but there seems to be something really beneficial in naturally fed hot springs.
Reluctantly we got out as it was time for lunch. We sat on jagged rocks, in the middle of an active volcanic crater munching on fried chicken and vegetable curry. Behind us the volcano continued to belch and wheeze out its volcanic steam. It was a memorable place for a picnic!
After taking many photos of the alien landscape at Kawah Ratu, it was time to make our way back down the volcano side. Before returning to the car however, we had one more stop. Turning off our original jungle path, we passed through an entrance archway and made our way down to the Curug Geblug waterfall.
Heading down the steep valley, we could hear the waterfall before we could see it. As we rounded a corner and crossed over some mossy boulders, the waterfall came into view. The waterfall cut through the dark rocks and down into a perfect pool, surrounded by high cliffs and jungle foliage.
We’ve all seen the waterfall photos with queues of people wanting to take the same snap next to the “secluded” waterfall, but this was the real thing. There was just us, our tour guide and a local family foraging. We had the whole waterfall to ourselves. Many photos and a quick dip later (the waterfall was a lot colder than the hot springs) it was time to make our way back to the car. We drove back through the late afternoon, happy with our first experience of an Indonesian volcano!
What To Know Before You Go?
How Hard Is The Trek To Kawah Ratu?
The short answer is, not very. There is a constant small incline, and the paths are muddy jungle tracks, with the occasional rickety log bridge. The whole walk would take at most an hour and half, although you can do it much faster.
The way down to and up from the waterfall is the only steep incline but this is all done with steps and really doesn’t last very long.
The jungle trek and Kawah Ratu crater is suitable for pretty much any fitness level, unless you have any mobility issues.
It’s rocky, but there are paths to follow!
How Long Does The Trek Take?
The trek itself including stops at the crater, hot springs, lunch and the waterfall lasted around four and a half hours.
For the day as a whole, we were picked up at our hostel at 7am and began the trek at 9.30am. We were back at our hostel before 5pm.
If you are being picked up or dropped off from Jakarta, expect it to be a longer day. The pick up time will be around 5am.
How Much Does The Tour Cost?
The tours will vary depending on operator and group size. If you’re booking through Ridwan, for one person it will cost 1,450,000 IDR, for two people it’ll cost 850,00 IDR per person, for three to five people the cost drops to 750,000 IDR. If you’ve got lots of friends, or can jump on a larger group (six to ten people), the cost is only 650,000 IDR. This includes a pick up and drop off from your hostel in Bogor or Jakarta, private driver and car, all fees (parking, entrance to Kawah Ratu and the Curug Geblug waterfall, the National Park fees etc), guide and lunch.
If you don’t want to take a tour, you could book a driver through Grab, but bear in mind you will need to pay entrance fees to each of the locations as well as the National Park fee and parking. We would also recommend chatting with your Grab driver and arranging for them to wait for you as there won’t be any passing cabs up the volcano.
What To Take / What Should I Wear?
When we visited there were no shops or stalls open once we entered the National Park, so bring any snacks and drinks you may want on the trek. Our driver was more than happy to stop at an Alfamart / Indomaret on our way.
We’d recommend wearing trainers or walking shoes for the walk through the jungle. It’s very rocky, especially within the crater. You will also have to cross some small streams, so bring a spare pair of socks if your shoes aren’t waterproof. We visited in the dry season and there was still a fair bit of mud around so be aware of this if visiting after rain. The local city of Bogor is known as the Rain City for a reason.
We both wore our swimwear underneath our clothes as you can swim/paddle at both the crater and waterfall.
Make sure to spray yourself with lots of bug spray as you are trekking through a jungle, and as always baste yourself liberally in sunscreen.
In Kawah Ratu you do not need a face mask / gas mask like you do need on some active volcanoes. Despite the strong smell the sulphur quickly disperses and doesn’t sting your eyes. The volcano will be closed if there is too much activity so don’t worry!
Facilities On The Trek
There were toilets at the trailhead, these were just basic squatties so bring tissues and hand sanitiser.
There were a couple of lean to sheds to change at the waterfall if you’re too modest for the old hold up a towel method.
As we mentioned above, when we went there were no shops or stalls so bring any snacks/water you need etc.
Can I Stay At Kawah Ratu?
You cannot stay at the Kawah Ratu crater, but there are lots of guesthouses and campsites dotted around the National Park. Next time we visit, we’d definitely stay at one of these as there were many other waterfalls and treks in the area.
Take a look at the map below for local accommodation options:
Can I Do This Tour From Jakarta?
Absolutely, journeying from Jakarta seems to be the more popular option as travellers do not usually stay down in Bogor. For all Jakarta based expeditions, including the volcanoes check out Get Your Guide:
You can of course do the above tour by contacting Ridwan (message us for more details). He will definitely pick you up from Jakarta or from Bogor. If you haven’t already, check out our article on Bogor on why you should stay in this awesome city.
Conclusion
We can’t recommend taking a day out from Bogor or Jakarta and exploring the volcanoes. In a rare move from us, we would actually recommend a guide as we were taken on jungle paths we certainly wouldn’t have chosen ourselves, guided to the correct temperature pools and gave us an insight into local life. We were lucky to visit mid week and the trails were deserted, with very few other people in the crater and the waterfall to ourselves.
If you’ve landed in Jakarta and or gone exploring in Bogor you may be looking for a little natural escape, and a trip to Mount Salak is just the tonic. The landscapes around these volcanoes are breathtaking, from the greens of the farmland and jungle, to the Mars-like desolation of the smoking crater at Kawah Ratu, the views are incredible.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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The Rain City of Bogor - Our Guide To What To Do And Where To Stay South Of Jakarta
Just south of Jakarta, only an hour and a half away is the “Rain City” of Bogor. Often overlooked by travellers, read why your should take a trip there. From its famous Botanical Gardens to the towering volcanoes surrounding it. Bogor was an unexpected delight and should be added to in Java itinierary!
Disclosure: This article may contain affiliate links. We will earn a small commission from any purchases made through these links.
Bogor, we'll forgive you if you haven't heard of this Indonesian city, but bear with us. It’s definitely worth your time.
Located just south from the 'Big Durian' of Jakarta, Bogor is known more commonly as the “Rain City".
Don't let this put you off though, it just means the air is clearer and everything feels all that much fresher. Surrounded by the volcanoes of Mount Salak and Mount Pangrango, Bogor is just an hour and half away from central Jakarta.
This city in West Java is a fantastic escape and has plenty to keep backpackers and travellers happily occupied.
Where Is Bogor?
Lying just south of Jakarta. Bogor is located in West Java. It is connected to the Capital by road, rail and other good transport links.
The city of Bandung to the east is only a three hour drive away. The west coast surf spot of Cimaja beach is two and a half hours drive.
How To Get To Bogor?
Having been assimilated by the giant sprawl of Jakarta, Bogor lies to the south of the city. The nearest airport to Bogor is the Soekarno-Hatta International Airport in Jakarta which is an hour and half drive away.
We wouldn’t recommend attempting to travel by this plane!
Getting To Bogor By Car
It should take you around an hour and twenty minutes from central Jakarta depending on Jakarta’s famous traffic jams.
Getting To Bogor By Train
Take the red commuter line from Jakarta Kota railway station all the way down. Bogor is the last station on the line. Trains run frequently and the journey will take you around an hour and a half.
Buying train tickets to Bogor
Buying train tickets in Indonesia is easy. For the Jakarta to Bogor journey (and vice versa) you will need to buy a KCI Commuter Card. If you're from London these are similar to Oyster Cards but can only be used on the Commuter Line. You can purchase this at any station the commuter line serves. They cost 10,000 IDR to buy and come with 30,000 IDR credit so a total cost of 40,000 IDR (£2.12 or $2.60) to purchase. The commuter line trains are very reasonable - the journey to central Jakarta to Bogor costs 3k per journey. Just tap at the gates upon entry and exit of the journey.
Getting To Bogor By Bus
You can take the MO6 bus that leaves every twenty minutes from Kampung Rambutan in South Jakarta.
If you're arriving in Bogor from any where in Java including other Javanese cities (e.g. Bandung or Jakarta) you can book tickets online and in advance via 12GO.
Getting To Bogor By Taxi
Another, slightly more luxurious option, is booking a private taxi all the way to Bogor. You can book your ride via Bluebird / Grab / Gojek and this should set you back between 250k and 350k IDR (£13.25 / $16.25 to £18.55 / $22.75).
If you're travelling by road, Jakarta is rightly notorious for its traffic, so bear in mind your journey may be considerably longer than planned! Also be aware of the “odd/even” licence plate restrictions in Jakarta city (read more here), that can also complicate your journey.
How To Get Around Bogor?
Despite being a “suburb” of the Big Durian, Bogor is a large city. Depending on where you stay, you may be slightly outside of walking distance from where you want to be.
To get around you can use Grab, Bluebird or GoJek, or do as the locals do and flag down an Angkot.
Angkot’s are cute! Don’t let their size fool you though, you can pack a lot of people in them!
These little green mini vans are the local bus equivalent, each running specific routes or zones denoted by a number on their front. When you know what route you want, flag down the correctly numbered angkot and hop in.
The price is roughly 5000 IDR per half hour, although if you have large bags, expect to pay a little bit more. Just pay the driver when you get to your destination.
Where To Stay In Bogor?
There is lots of accommodation to choose from in town, ranging from high class multi-national chains through to guesthouses and backpacker hostels.
We can highly recommend staying at the Rion Bogor Hostel.
The hostel was centrally located and was within walking distance of the Botanical Gardens as well as Chinatown, malls and lots of food.
The hostel offered both private and dorm rooms. We stayed in one of the private rooms which was clean and comfy and the en-suite shower was piping hot. The hostel also has a rooftop cafe serving food and drinks and even a swimming pool! If you’re staying at Rion Bogor Hostel and arriving by train, you’ll need to flag down a number 3 angkot and ask to be dropped off at Jalan Sambu.
To book your stay at Rion Bogor Hostel click here.
For all other accommodation choices available to book in Bogor, check out the map below:
What Is There To Do In Bogor?
Bogor Botanical Gardens (Location)
The most popular of Bogor’s attractions lies right in the heart of the city. Bogor’s Botanical Gardens are the oldest botanical gardens in South East Asia. The Dutch officially established a garden and palace on the grounds in 1744, however there has been a much longer history of intentional gardening on this site.
As early as the 1470s, a man made forest stood on this site deliberately stocked with rare tree seeds. After the fall of the Sundanese Kingdom, the forest was reverted to nature until the Dutch East Indies Company established their presence. After the British invasion of Java in 1811, Stamford Raffles (of the Singapore Sling fame) took over residency in the palace. Under Raffles, the gardens took on a new persona, that of an English landscaped garden.
The Botanical Gardens as it is now, came into being following the Anglo-Dutch treaty where a Dutch biologist teamed up with two Englishmen from Kew Gardens to found Bogor’s Botanical Gardens in 1817.
The Botanical Gardens of Bogor thrive due to the unique microclimate of the area. The “Rain City” means that the gardens are constantly green and lush. The garden now serves as a research hub for agriculture and horticulture as well as a beautiful place to explore.
Visiting the Gardens:
The main entrance to the gardens is opposite Lawang Suryakencana, the gate to Bogor’s Chinatown (https://maps.app.goo.gl/kk9U8DAyGQPNmgJ79).
Tickets cost 15,500 IDR each on weekdays (£0.81 or $1.02) or 25,500 IDR each on weekends and public holidays (£1.33 or $1.68).
As the Presidential Palace sits within the garden grounds, you are not allowed to bring in anything that resembles a weapon. This unfortunately includes telescopic lenses for cameras as well as drones for obvious reasons.
Once you’ve bought your tickets you are free to roam through the gardens. The gardens are a quiet contrast to the busy streets in Bogor’s Chinatown, especially if you visit on a weekday as we did. Tall trees line the paths, colourful butterflies and dragonflies flutter through the flower beds and water flows and spouts up through fountains in the central lake.
If you head to the left hand side as you enter the gardens, you’ll reach the Bamboo Garden, with secluded sections shaded by the thick bamboo forest. In a corner of this forest, the remains of the Dutch cemetery rise up bright white against the dark forest greens. Near to the cemetery are the European rose gardens and the entrance to the Presidential Palace.
Sadly, the glasshouses were closed when we came to visit, but they were very impressive structures from the outside. Near to the glasshouses were the orchid gardens. These were amazing but not for the reason you might think. There were very few orchids in bloom, but what there was, was an almost magical dusting of white fluffy blossoms. It coated everything like cottony snow. It was strange to be walking around in 30 plus degree heat, but feeling like we were wading through snow drifts. On the downside, John discovered it was not a day to wear black trousers as he came out of the enclosure looking as though he had befriended several very hairy cats.
It’s like it is Christmas, except its August and 34 degrees centigrade!
As you round the perimeter heading back to the entrance, you find yourself in Mexico as you stumble upon the Mexican Gardens. Full to the brim with Central and Southern American cactuses and flowers. In amongst this, you even see a colourful casa, alongside secluded nooks and green spaces that look perfect for a picnic.
The gardens are well worth a visit and you can expect to spend a full morning wandering around. We’d recommend visiting in the morning before it gets too hot and before the rains set in.
There is a restaurant on site as well as a few cafes. The restaurant was buffet style and very expensive but did have a great view down to the lakes. The coffee was pricier than outside the gardens but a lovely energy boost nonetheless.
For cheaper eats, there are some stalls set up just outside the glasshouses and orchid gardens selling instant noodles and other snacks. We would recommend either bringing a picnic or dining outside the park as Bogor has so many great eateries within walking distance.
Bogor Presidential Palace (Location)
The Presidential Palace of Bogor sits in the heart of the Botanical Gardens. Although it’s not possible to visit in person, you can still admire the building through the gates. With elegant lawns leading towards the large white palace and towering flag poles. On top of the palace sits a small golden dome.
If you’re lucky enough you may even spot one of the many deer that live in the palace grounds roaming around. We passed the palace grounds multiple times during our stay and looking through the gates at the deer, it felt as though we were looking at London’s Bushy Park!
Kujang Monument (Location)
The Kujang Monument is a towering icon of the city, set into the centre of a roundabout. This monument was constructed in 1982 and was built to look like a traditional weapon used in West Java.
When we visited a week after Indonesia’s Independence Day, the tower and its surrounding colonnade had been decked out in Indonesian flags and colours to celebrate.
Museum of Zoology (Location)
The Museum of Zoology is located to the left of the main entrance to the Botanical Gardens. The museum houses fossils, skeletons, insects and even a blue whale!
We didn’t have time to visit the museum on this trip as we were too hungry after spending the morning at the gardens, but it’s on the list for next time.
The museum is open everyday from 8am to 3pm, but do check opening times on public and national holidays.
Pasar Baru, Chinatown Bogor (Location)
Those who know us, know we just love wandering around and getting lost in a city. The winding alleyways of Bogor were perfect for this and it was a day walking aimlessly where we spotted the bustling and colourful market stalls surrounding Pasar Baru Bogor.
Selling everything from exotic fruits to live birds, this market seemed to be where everyone in town was gathering. Colourful vegetables jostled with homewares and spilled out across the street. Street carts laden with plastic bags, inexplicably filled with live goldfish, trundled up and down the lanes, whilst a group of young men danced with a Chinese dragon.
It was chaotic, vibrant and everything you could want from a local market.
Definitely try the snake fruit while you’re there, it’s easy to spot just look for the fruit that… looks like it’s covered in snake skin!
To eat, you just peel the snake like skin off the fruit and eat the soft, snappy, slightly tart fruit within.
Snake fruit tastes like the lovechild of a plum and apple. It is also pretty cheap when bought from a market!
Just Walk Around The City
Bogor is a great town to just walk around. If you’re staying at the Rion Hostel, then take a walk down by the river onto the village like islands in the middle. These colourful little enclaves are full of shops, small eateries and friendly locals. These little islands are a colourful warren full to the brim with colourful decorations and street art. You’ll never know what you’re going to find, from a tiny mosque overlooking the river to a family of chicks hiding from the sun underneath a street cart. When we visited Bogor it was just after Indonesian Independence Day and it was especially colourful.
Further Afield - Day Trips Outside of Bogor - Mount Salak and Mount Pangrango
Bogor is surrounded by the towering volcanoes of Mount Salak and Mount Pangrango. Both volcano peaks are an oasis for hikers, nature lovers and those looking for fresh air from the cities below. We did an excellent hike to the crater of Mount Salak which led us through the jungle up to the bubbling sulphur. You can read more about this day here. There are also lots of campsites leading up the mountainside so you easily get your glamp on!
What To Eat In Bogor?
There is no shortage of street food stalls, warungs, cafes and restaurants in Bogor. Everywhere you look there seems to be some form of establishment catered towards serving food. Whatever you fancy, this city will cater for you.
We especially enjoyed the street food and restaurants found along Jalan Suryakencana in Bogor’s Chinatown.
We had an exceptional bowl of Soto Ayam from Sunda Barokah (Location). A light, coconutty chicken broth, with a leg of chicken, fried shallots and garlic, tomatoes and greens were accompanied by a steaming pile of rice.
It was light, yet full of flavour and only cost 20,000 IDR per bowl (£1.04 or $1.32).
As night falls in Bogor, small makeshift shift restaurants and street carts pop up almost on every street corner.
We loved eating at the stalls on Jalan Ciheuleut (Location) where we had some excellent plates of Nasi Goreng and Mie Goreng (fried rice and fried noodles). Both plates were hearty and delicious and were even better when you crushed the Keropok (crackers) on top. Just be careful if you order it spicy as it definitely is just that!
Each plate cost only 15,000 IDR each (£0.78 or $0.99).
For those after a sweet treat, you can’t go wrong with the Michelle Bakery (Location) which basically sold bread in any form from banana to chocolate, cinnamon to pandang and even bread with smoked beef or pepper chicken. The baked goods make a great portable breakfast if you have an early start the next morning.
How Long Should You Stay In Bogor?
Bogor is a refreshing break from the busy and crowded cities of Jakarta and Bandung. We’d recommend at least two full days here; with one day dedicated to exploring the city and its attractions and at least one more, to get out to one of the surrounding National Parks and volcanoes.
If your itinerary doesn’t allow you to stay in Bogor, you can do quite a lot as day trips from Jakarta. As we’ve mentioned, the city is only an hour and half away so you can stay in Jakarta and visit on a day trip. Check out below for some ideas for guided experiences from Jakarta to Bogor which will include transport to and from your accommodation in Jakarta.
Where To Go After Bogor?
If you’re travelling from east to west through Java, then your next stop is probably the capital of Jakarta.
If you’re travelling west to east, Bogor has great links to the city of Bandung, or if you’re looking for some more national parks, Cipanas is close by as well as the surfing beach of Cimaja.
Conclusion
Often overlooked as just being a suburb of Jakarta, Bogor is a fantastic getaway. There is enough to keep you occupied, and the whole place is charming and fun. Start your Indonesian trip a little differently and make sure not to miss out on this beautiful little city.
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Jakarta - A Backpacker’s Guide to the Big Durian
Jakarta is often just a flight connection for those heading to or from the island of Bali. Nicknamed the “Big Durian” travellers appear to either love or hate the Indonesian Capital. We love Jakarta and so should you. Read our guide for how to have an amazing time in the Indonesian Capital. From where to stay and what to eat to the best attractions, we cover it all!
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The Indonesian capital of Jakarta is a massive sprawling metropolis and has earned the nickname, the “Big Durian”. A slightly cruel reading of this nickname is that it’s big, ugly and smelly. A more accurate one however, is that for every one person who dislikes Jakarta, another absolutely adores it. Surprise, surprise we were in the latter camp, we loved it! The food we ate was incredible, the people funny, warm and welcoming and there was so much to do that our week in the city just flew by.
Jakarta is frequently just a stopping off point for those travelling to or from the paradise island of Bali. Often seen as a chore that has to be gotten out of the way, we had been warned not to expect much from the Indonesian capital, but this couldn’t be further from the truth. Read on to find out how to get the most out of this amazing city!
Jakarta’s buildings are a mixture of ultra modern high rise to wooden beamed shophouses.
Getting To And From Jakarta: Where Is The Indonesian capital?
Jakarta is the current capital of Indonesia, and lies on the northern coast of the island of Java. We say current, as there are plans to relocate the capital of Indonesia to Nusantara in 2024. Java is so large it is divided into three regions, West, Central and Wast. Jakarta is on the far end of Western Java.
As the capital, it's a major air and transport hub for travel throughout Indonesia, South East Asia and Australasia.
Jakarta by Air
The most likely way you’ll be arriving in Jakarta is by air, via the international airport of Soekarno-Hatta. This major airport has flights departing worldwide, as well local carriers taking you across the archipelago. The airport is to the north west of central Jakarta and is a 45 minute (traffic dependant) inexpensive taxi ride away, or an hour and half by connecting trains.
Jakarta by Train
The island of Java is well connected with trains running from West to East and joining all the major cities, including to the port town of Ketapang where ferries leave for Bali. We can highly recommend train travel in Indonesia. Trains are very clean, comfy and cheap and the routes they travel across are stunning.
Jakarta by Bus
Jakarta has bus links to everywhere on Java. There are large official bus terminals as well as many other smaller operators. Check around and use Google, there will almost certainly be a bus from Jakarta going to wherever you need to go.
To book your travel in advance, we can recommend using 12Go. You can use this to book trains, buses, ferries and even internal flights.
Where To Stay In Jakarta?
Jakarta is a huge city, and as such location is key when choosing your accommodation. Despite its size, there aren’t that many hostels on offer, so if you’re looking for common rooms and fellow backpackers, the choices are limited. There are, however, plenty of guesthouses and hotels for all budgets.
We wanted a hostel so we chose to stay at the Packers Lodge on the fringes of Chinatown.
The hostel was perfect. Cheap and comfy, with rooftop and street level common areas, kitchen facilities and even a small gym! What stood out for us most was the location. Just off of the main road, the Packers Lodge was in a small enclave of pretty alleyways, narrow passages and streets. We had been told Jakarta was not a pretty city, but the flower filled avenues around Chinatown were gorgeous. We opted for a private room with en-suite, but dorms are also available.
Book your stay here .
For all accommodation choices in Jakarta, from high end to basic backpacker, check out the map below:
Getting Around Jakarta
Jakarta is a huge city, and although there are plenty of pavements, it's not always the most pleasant place to walk around. Jakarta is also a truly massive city, sprawling out from the coast in every direction. You’re going to need some transport.
Local Buses
There is a good network of local buses connecting the major hubs through Jakarta. As an added bonus the buses frequently have their own lane so don’t suffer as badly form the Jakartan traffic issues. You need to buy a card before you board, and this will come preloaded with enough credit to make at least one journey. These cards can be purchased at the larger bus stops.
Ride Hailing / Taxi Apps
Grab, Gojek and Bluebird Taxis all operate within the capital. Grab and Gojek are cheap and easily available. Bluebird is an Indonesian taxi firm with its own app, but from our experience a higher quality of driver (less likely to get lost and more likely to spot you waving desperately from the side of the road). Bluebird gives you an estimated cost for the journey, whereas Grab and Gojek confirm the price before you set off. You can choose to pay in cash or linked debit card.
One thing to note when driving around Jakarta is the Odd/Even Licence Plate Restrictions. Traffic in Jakarta is notorious. Long traffic jams are extremely common and to combat this, the government has imposed the Odd/Even License Plate restrictions. During the morning and evening rush hours a car's licence plate dictates which roads it can use. Alternating days will bar either plates beginning in odd numbers or plates beginning in even numbers from using many of the main roads in Jakarta. This restriction will mean that your Grab/Gojek/BlueBird driver will have to take lengthy detours if they have the wrong licence plate for the day. This can be shocking as a passenger, as you will stray a long way off of the route your app is telling you that the driver should take and it can add a lot of journey time to a cross-town ride. You can set GoogleMaps to see the routes available for odd/even licence plates and that should reassure you that you’re going the right way. The Odd/Even restriction is also why you may have a few drivers cancel your booking as soon as they are assigned it!
What To Do In Jakarta?
Jakarta, despite what anyone may say, has loads to offer travellers. We spent a week in the city and definitely didn’t get to see all it has to offer. Below are some of the highlights from our time.
National Museum of Indonesia
Entry cost: 25,000 IDR per ticket (£1.31 or $1.63)
The National Museum is a great place to learn about the fascinating, varied histories of Indonesia. With exhibitions on the ethnic diversity, the landscape of Indonesia and its ancient and modern histories.
The artefacts on display were incredible, from huge wooden boats, to intricate and ornately decorated tribal masks. The museum was interesting, and well worth a visit. There is a cafe and toilet facilities on site.
National Monument and Merdeka Square
Crowned with a golden flame, this white column spears up into the skyline of central Jakarta. The National Monument sits right in the middle of Merdeka Square a large square park, full of trees, dancing fountains, green lawns and gardens.
There is a viewpoint at the top of the National Monument, however there are limited tickets per day, and as we were visiting around Indonesian Independence Day we were far too late to pick up tickets!
Merdeka Square, the park surrounding the monument is a great place to escape the chaos of downtown Jakarta. There is a large food court near the monument and loads of places to chill out.
It is very popular on the weekends, and when we visited there was even a toddler balance bike competition!
If you are travelling with little ones, there is a seemingly permanent fun fair in the park, along with many toy stalls.
If you have subjected your small human to the museum and art gallery, Merdeka Square may have an appropriate reward for their patience!
National Gallery of Indonesia
Entry cost: Free but reserve online to skip the queues.
As the name suggests, this is the national gallery of Indonesia. Housing incredible artwork from Indonesian artists as well as exhibits from overseas. You can easily combine a visit here with a visit to the National Museum and National Monument.
Chinatown - Glodok
Entry cost: Free
Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown area is full of colour and life. In the early morning the streets are packed with vendors selling everything from vegetables to live frogs. Market stalls spill over the streets and clog up the narrow lanes with stallholders, pedestrians and scooters all jostling for space. The winding alleyways hide ornate temples and old shop houses. Chinatown is a great place just to get lost and enjoy the atmosphere.
It is also an amazing place for food whatever time of day, but we will come to that later.
Kota Tua and Taman Fatahillah
A large pedestrianised boulevard leads from Kota Tua train station to the Dutch Old Town surrounding the Taman Fatahillah Square. This is Jakata’s “Trafalgar Square” lined on all sides with museums - The Puppet Museum, Jakarta History Museum and the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics.
The square itself is full of street performers, selfie spots and children's entertainers. The famous colonial era institution of Cafe Batavia sits on the square’s north west corner, so if you want to treat yourself to a posh coffee or cocktail you're covered.
At night the area turns into a sprawling night market serving everything from satay and other Indonesian fare to international foods. Just be aware that as the main tourist night market it can get extremely busy!
Museum Bahari Jakarta - National Maritime Museum
Entry costs - 5000 IDR (£0.26 or $0.33)
To the north of Kota Tua on the edges of the port of Jakarta is the National Maritime Museum. Housed in the old spice warehouses of the Dutch East India Company this museum is definitely worth the walk.
The museum has the original watch tower next to the ticket desk which gives a great view of the old buildings sitting next to the new container port of Jakarta.
The museum has exhibits on the seafaring history of the native tribes of Indonesia, the influence of Dutch colonialism as well as the importance of the country to world trade and history. The Maritime museum is full of boats, models, paintings and interesting artefacts.
There is also an exhibition on the fire that gutted the museum in 2018 and the amazing restoration work that restored it.
Shopping in Jakarta
As the Indonesian capital Jakarta is well stocked in malls, shops and department stores making it an ideal place for a restock or refresh of your backpacking wardrobe.
All the main international brands are present from high end couture to sportswear. We had a successful supply run at the Grand Indonesia Mall including a surprisingly cheap and tasty lunch in the food court!
The malls seem to be social hubs for Jakartan’s. Full of busy cafes, food courts, cinemas, performance spaces and gyms. We even encountered a Chinese Dragon dancing competition whilst browsing for shoes!
Guided Experiences
If you’re looking for guided experiences in or around Jakarta, including tours to the nearby volcanoes, check out Get Your Guide. For those short on time, they are a great way of cramming as much Jakarta into your itinerary as possible!
What To Eat in Jakarta
Eating in Jakarta is an absolute pleasure. Indonesian food is fantastic, a mixing bowl of all the greatest hits of southeast Asia whilst being totally unique. Jakarta emblemises this fantastic array of foods perfectly, from street carts to fine dining and everything in between, Jakarta has something for everyone.
Chinatown
We were based in the Packers Lodge hostel just off of Chinatown so had the opportunity to sample its delights at every time of day. Check out the below for our top eats in Chinatown.
For breakfast we treated ourselves to steamed sticky rice with chicken at Bakmi Sasak (Location) a small shop in the midst of the morning market. Sweet, rich and hearty, the steamed sticky rice clung to every morsel of sauce and made for a very satisfying breakfast.
Nearby (and later on!) on the same street as Bakmi Sasak, we ate at another restaurant (Location) serving one of our favourite Asian dishes, Kuey Teow.
The tell-tale blazing hot wok and fistfuls of frying noodles drew us in and we were not disappointed. Generous portions of smokey noodles, piled high with shrimp, chicken and Chinese sausage. It was delicious!
You cannot beat chicken for breakfast
Except maybe Kuey Teow for lunch!
If you’re in Chinatown, do not miss the famous street of Jalan Pintu Besar Selatan III (Location). This tiny alleyway is lined on both sides with street food vendors and stalls. Jalan Pintu also houses the famous Kopi Es Tak Kie, an old school Chinese coffee shop where you can buy food from the street vendors outside and bring it in to eat with your coffee. We ate an amazing plate of mixed pork and rice. The pork came in every imaginable variety from crispy belly, to sweet sausage, drizzled with a sweet soy sauce and accompanied by a hard boiled egg.
Other Jakarta Eats
Warteg Gang Mangga (Location)
It was obvious from the queues of delivery scooters and the constant crowds inside this small restaurant that it was going to be good. Open all hours, this popular hole in the wall joint serves rice and curry, with a massive variety of the latter. The choice of curries was amazing, we opted for a creamy coconut and jackfruit alongside our fried chicken, spicy sambal and fried egg. Their fried chicken was coated in coconut flakes, and was to die for and the curries were knockouts! Rice and curry is always a win for us. Ever since Sri Lanka we have loved the variety of the curries, it is one of our favourite things to eat. We were overjoyed that, in Indonesia, rice and curry is common and may even be the best selection yet!
Bakmi Aheng (Location)
Don’t try looking for this restaurant during the day as all you’ll find is an empty parking space.
Come nightfall, however, a tent springs up and boiling pots of noodles begin bubbling away. This was our first meal in Indonesia and it really set the tone for the deliciousness we could expect. Thin egg noodles, tossed in a minced pork, garlic and spring onion oil served with a delicate soup.
It was addictive, yummy and incredibly cheap! All the things a backpacker could want.
The Gade Coffee & Gold (Location)
This is cheating as this is a chain, but on a hot sticky day in Jakarta, their iced lattes really hit the spot! Not the cheapest coffee we found, but if you’re after a ‘treat yourself’ pick me up in an air conditioned environment, you can’t go wrong.
Gaja Madah Food Street (Location)
This upscale food court was a favourite for us and our fellow hostel travellers.
To get the bad out the way first, it was definitely not the cheapest place to eat. The street food here is 50% more expensive than the street food available outside. That out the way, this was one of our favourite places to spend an evening in Jakarta. Live music, big screens, a bar and a plethora of food to choose from. You could happily snack your way through several hours of an evening. We especially liked the fried belly pork and spicy barbecued chicken wings. Also the sushi wasn’t bad either!
Night Market on the Streets Outside Grand Indonesia Mall
Come nightfall, the shoppers disperse and the streets are taken over with food stalls, carts and makeshift seating. You can eat pretty much whatever you want here from freshly grilled satay, fried fish and lumpia (Indonesian spring rolls) through to Korean corn dogs and American style cheeseburgers!
Q Food and Music (Location)
This food court is located way out the main “tourist areas” and feels like it. With prices half that of Gaja Madah, this food court gave us a fantastic evening out with the locals.
Spicy satay taichan (plain barbecued chicken dipped in an amazing spicy sauce) alongside regular satay was a highlight as was the mie goreng (fried noodles). There was a bar, a live DJ and a screen showing football.
Q Food is a great recommendation if you want a more Jakartan food court experience. We loved Gaja Madah, but you could have been in any city. Q Food was 100% Jakartan, even with the chanting for Manchester United….
Conclusion
For some reason, Jakarta seems to have a bad reputation amongst travellers. Frequently we’ve been advised to literally land and leave, but we are so glad we gave it a chance. This city is full of great food, things to do and places to explore. It's a huge city, and not without its problems, but it's well worth giving Jakarta your time!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Indonesian Sim Cards - Telkomsel and How To Top Up As A Backpacker
Data and sim cards are essential to the modern backpacker. Read our handy guide to getting an Indonesian sim card and the tricky business of topping one up!
Like many of the south east Asian countries, it’s super easy and extremely cheap to pick up a sim card in Indonesia. Telkomsel is one of the largest operators in Indonesia, and we picked up two of their sims when we landed in Jakarta’s Soekarno-Hatta International Airport.
We bought a 28 day package with 35 GB of data for 175,000 IDR each (£9.10 or $11.37).
If you’re buying a sim card in Indonesia, you will need your passport.
This was all fine but when the 28 days had run down, we found there was an issue. Telkomsel and its app only allow you to top up credit via an Indonesian debit or credit card!
We’ve had this issue before in India and have found a new solution in Indonesia.
To top up your Telkomsel sim package, with a foreign debit/credit card you will need GoPay.
Part of the GoJek ecosystem, GoPay is an app that acts as a wallet on your phone. You’ll see in lots of shops little QR codes for payments, this is where you can use GoPay. GoPay is also accepted as a payment method on the Telkomsel app, you can see where we’re going with this!
To use GoPay you will need to have already have an account with GoJek.
It’s not quite as simple as downloading GoPay and topping up with your card as GoPay doesn’t allow non-Indonesian banks either! You will need to go to an Indomaret or Alfamart (Indonesia’s equivalent of 7/11’s - they are literally everywhere) and top up there.
On the app, press the little plus button next to your balance, enter the required top up amount and then at the bottom of the screen use the select method menu to choose “Indomaret or Alfamart”.
This will generate a barcode on the app. Depending on the store, you will either just show the barcode to the cashier and pay them to top up, or you will be directed to a kiosk machine within the store. Either way, follow the cashier’s instructions and pay the required amount. Payment needs to be made in cash. Once paid, the top up will show instantly on your GoPay account.
There is a small fee of 1500 IDR to top up this way, unfortunately there is no way around this if you want to top up this way!
With your now loaded GoPay wallet, you can open the Telkomsel app. Select the package you want, and pay with the payment method of “GoPay”.
Result!
Happy browsing all!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie